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Issues with new heating zone

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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,678 ✭✭✭John.G


    Well, its not for want of effort on your part that you still have problems.

    I still wouldn't be too happy with that ABV which I presume was installed with the zoning as, despite what Biworld say should IMO be drop tight with a setting of anything > 0.35, you said in post 53 that it was at a setting of 0.1 and the system was still "working" but short of removing it and testing it then you will never know, but, overall, it is hard to avoid the conclusion that this boiler has to be in modulating mode at all times.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 131 ✭✭powerade


    No, it's certainly not for the want of trying and thank you again for all of your input. I totally agree with you with regard to the ABV and I'm not done yet. I discovered today that when you set the pump speed to zero, you get two new boiler menu items to set a minimum and maximum pump speed. I also found a WB technical info sheet on these two settings which I have attached to this post. It cost me 10 euro to run my heating today which is a joke, considering the investment that I have already made into a combi boiler and heating zones. I will put pressure on WB to figure this out but I will also continue to educate myself in the workings of this system as there is logic there somewhere. I just need to find it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 131 ✭✭powerade


    Attachment.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,678 ✭✭✭John.G


    I would suggest that the very first chance you get (system drained or whatever) replace that ABV with a manual gate valve (even temporarily) as you are running the pump in constant pressure mode and it is very easy to set the valve to give whatever by pass you require, if any.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,678 ✭✭✭John.G


    powerade wrote: »
    Attachment.
    Setting 5 in the normal menu for pump control runs the pump based on boiler output but overall, I reckon setting 4 (3M, constant head) is the best available option.

    And, if only for interest, have you tried increasing the cycle time from 3 min to say 10 min?.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 131 ✭✭powerade


    I can't see a setting 5 for the pump head speed, only 0 to 4? I changed the anti cycle time to 20 minutees and and that is what it took. I have now changed it to 5 minutes. I am leaving Zone 2 to run all day @ 22 degrees. It is relatively mild today and it is up to 21 degrees right now so it should be there in an hour or so. I will also run Zone 1 as normal as I want to get a feel for my energy consumption. In the meantime I can keep an eye on the anti cycling and, more importantly, get some proper assistance from WB. Noted re ABV 👍👍


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,678 ✭✭✭John.G


    2.1E - Pump switch mode setting ▶ Selectable values for pump head. – 4 = Pump energy save on – 5 = Depends on heat request.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 131 ✭✭powerade


    I didn't touch that setting so it is still at no 4. I deliberately avoided bringing the hot water into this discussion but I can't avoid it any longer. This morning I had a d4 error code (flow temperature is rising too fast). All of the taps are mixers in Zone 2 and people always seem to leave them partly turned towards hot. The tap is turned on for a nano second but the system goes I nbto a 201 status followed by a 305. Then when the CH needs to fire up again, the measured temperature is too high and we get a 204/202. If there are subsequent short demands for HW in rapid succession the sysyen cannot cope and we get HW and CH cycles that finally end with a d4. What I really can't understand is how running the hot water can have any effect on the CH flow temperature. When the HW is turned off, for example, you can see the flow temperature shoot up to 75 degrees. I need to observe this a bit more but this can't be right. The heating demand is satisfied in both zones at the moment and the hot water has not been turned on in a while but the system has been running HW rapid anti cycles (status code 305) roughly every 10 minutes for the last half hour ������


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,678 ✭✭✭John.G


    Pump issue maybe?? despite being renewed. Only suggest now is switch off all power to boiler for a minute or so then power up and restore default setting.
    Other possibility is that the boiler heat exchanger is blocked/partially blocked or diverter valve.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 131 ✭✭powerade


    WB are sending an engineer out.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,678 ✭✭✭John.G


    Happy New Year to all, have you any update/progress on your problem?.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 45 LionKing7


    Hi,
    I came across a similar issue with my heating system too.
    I have 2 zone heating system with a combi boiler.
    Zone 01: 5 radiators
    Zone 02: 6 radiators

    When I turn on Zone 01, 2 radiators in Zone 2 starting to warm up.
    When I turn on Zone 02, 3 radiators in Zone 01 starting to warm up.

    Heating control system is from EPH. They visited and checked and told that when turning on the heating of one zone, water comes back to boiler goes to the other heating zone little a bit. That causes to heat the radiators on other zone from the reverse valve.

    Then I got the plumbers to fix that. First they said they are trying to balance it. For the Zone 01 they tried first day and when it didn't work they said they replaced the return valve of one radiator with a new return value (with sprint or something). Then it is okay now. But other 2 still warms up when heating turns on other zone.

    Is there anyone who come across such a situation or any idea would be greatly appreciated.


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