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Turning a sheet of MDF into a handle-less door - Any ideas?

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Comments

  • #32
    Graham
    Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 17,643 Mod ✭✭✭✭Graham


    Not sure I'd agree there.

    Most foil wrapped kitchen doors are 18mm MDF (apart from the flimsy 15mm Ikea jobs). Pretty much all high gloss handleless (J) kitchen doors are 22mm MDF.
    Similarly, most wardrobe doors are 18mm MDF foil wrapped MDF.

    As long as the right type/number of hinges are use, there shouldn't be a problem with the weight.

    The biggest problem the OP is likely to have is the edges of any DIY MDF doors. Unless there's a fair amount of effort put into filling/smoothing the edges, it's likely to be as rough as hell and end up acting like velcro for dust.


  • #33
    listermint
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,430 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    Graham wrote: »
    Not sure I'd agree there.

    Most foil wrapped kitchen doors are 18mm MDF (apart from the flimsy 15mm Ikea jobs). Pretty much all high gloss handleless (J) kitchen doors are 22mm MDF.
    Similarly, most wardrobe doors are 18mm MDF foil wrapped MDF.

    As long as the right type/number of hinges are use, there shouldn't be a problem with the weight.

    The biggest problem the OP is likely to have is the edges of any DIY MDF doors. Unless there's a fair amount of effort put into filling/smoothing the edges, it's likely to be as rough as hell and end up acting like velcro for dust.

    well youd be wrong then wouldnt you.

    'Most' foil wrapped doors have centre sections cut out of them for weight reduction also design. and many doors are constructed of multi layer composite of partial MDF and partial other materials including solid wood.

    So, no there is always a weight consideration with doors. Any doors.


  • #34
    colm_mcm
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 73,551 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    listermint wrote: »
    MDF wont stay straight if its been put together badly or incorrect amount or type of hinges are used.

    Also door weight, if someone uses 18mm for doors then they are off to a bad start.

    I would say that your basic DIYer won’t do a good looking job by starting from scratch compared to an off the shelf flat pack.


  • #35
    Graham
    Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 17,643 Mod ✭✭✭✭Graham


    listermint wrote: »
    'Most' foil wrapped doors have centre sections cut out of them for weight reduction also design. and many doors are constructed of multi layer composite of partial MDF and partial other materials including solid wood.

    From the significant ROI/NI manufacturers/distributors, approximately half of the one-piece MDF foil wrapped doors have a design routered out of them before they are wrapped. The single most popular design is the slab door, 18mm foil wrapped MDF.


  • #36
    The Mulk
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,353 ✭✭✭The Mulk


    I've done a similar project, but used a company in Wicklow to supply the units and doors, Foil wrapped MDF, pre drilled for hinges.
    I was able cut the back of the base units to cover over the chimney breast. (Although our breast was bigger than the one in your photos and I cut an ope in it for an oven)
    I measured it and drew it out by hand and ordered the units direct from their website. They were delivered fully assembled because I spent over €500.
    It was easy to fit then


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  • #37
    listermint
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,430 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    colm_mcm wrote: »
    I would say that your basic DIYer won’t do a good looking job by starting from scratch compared to an off the shelf flat pack.

    I'm not sure if you missed the part where I told the op to buy an IKEA kit and extend it.

    I shall point you to earlier in the thread


  • #38
    listermint
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,430 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    Graham wrote: »
    From the significant ROI/NI manufacturers/distributors, approximately half of the one-piece MDF foil wrapped doors have a design routered out of them before they are wrapped. The single most popular design is the slab door, 18mm foil wrapped MDF.

    So earlier it was most.

    Now it's half.

    I said in the thread already that proper hinges are required as they are heavy doors so that someone starting out with 18mm doors was on to a bad start. Due to weight.

    I'm not sure at what point you think any of that is wrong.


  • #39
    Graham
    Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 17,643 Mod ✭✭✭✭Graham


    18mm/22mm MDF cabinet doors doors are an industry standard, they're hanging in kitchens up and down the country using standard hinges. That's why I can't understand why you've had problems.

    What hinges are you using?


  • #40
    listermint
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,430 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    Graham wrote: »
    18mm/22mm MDF cabinet doors doors are an industry standard, they're hanging in kitchens up and down the country using standard hinges. That's why I can't understand why you've had problems.

    What hinges are you using?

    I haven't had problems. And you ignored everything I said . Twice


  • #41
    Graham
    Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 17,643 Mod ✭✭✭✭Graham


    listermint wrote: »
    I haven't had problems. And you ignored everything I said . Twice

    Cool, so we've established you and the entire KBB industry don't have a problem hanging 18mm MDF doors. It's probably safe to assume the OP will be ok too.

    OP, however you make your cabinets, try to stick to standard sizes and just buy the doors. You're unlikely to save money if you get sheet cut to size and you almost certainly won't get anything like a factory finish to the paintwork.

    Some randomish thoughts:
    • Design your cabinets in heights of 360/570/720/900mm and widths of 300/400/500/600/700/800/900/1000 and you'll find stock doors to suit.
    • Use combinations of flatpack cabinets. E.g. a 1000mm and 500mm base for the alcoves.
    • Use 150mm plinth (kicker) as filler/frame.
    • Use wall cabinets with added legs if you only need shallow base cabinets.
    • For your chosen door range, take a look at the matching cornice/pelmet/corpel for the finishing touches.
    • Gables (panels) make good open shelves, open shelves will stop the room looking smaller.
    • For inspiration, have a look at the marketing shots for most new housing developments.


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  • #42
    colm_mcm
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 73,551 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    listermint wrote: »
    I'm not sure if you missed the part where I told the op to buy an IKEA kit and extend it.

    I shall point you to earlier in the thread

    I’m agreeing with you. Chill!


  • #43
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 15,077 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Howdy do folks.

    Just to give an update, reason i wanted to paint MDF was because I wanted to go in a dark blue / navy colour direction.

    Turns out Finsa supply Hoeys DIY, who will do me a cutting list. Finsa have a melamine faced chipboard that comes in that kind of colour.

    So I asked could hoeys get it for me. They asked me to send on the cutting list with the requested colour and they'd get back to me.

    Using 18 mm chipboard is something I've done countless times before so that'd make life a lot easier for me, assuming I can get that colour (fingers crossed).


  • #44
    basillarkin
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,649 ✭✭✭basillarkin


    use mrmdf if going down the mdf route, sands and paints up really well


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