Turning a sheet of MDF into a handle-less door - Any ideas?

Howdy do folks.


Want to build a large, wall-to-wall, floor-to-ceiling entertainment unit in my sitting room. Effectively, it will be a new 'wall' in the room, full of storage on both sides, with a blank space in the centre to hang a TV (I'll be covering over a chimney breast, so the sides/alcoves will be storage, and centre will be for the TV, as it will cover the chimney breast, removing it's presence, without having to actually knock it out).




The long and short, is that it's effectively a kitchen I want to build.


I contacted 5 local kitchen crowds - 1 got back with a pie in the sky quote, and the other 4 have made no contact (this was weeks ago).


So I used to do a bit of work in the kitchen area myself, and said, feck it, i'll DIY it.




I'm gonna make it with 18mm MDF and then paint it. The carcasses/units are just a load of squares and rectangles.


My issues arises when it comes to doors. I want to do a handle-less door, but I'm not sure how to. I have no proper tools (I presume a router is the way to do the 'handle' profile properly) so I'm not sure what way to approach it.


Local place (Hoey's DIY) will supply me with the MDF, cut to size, but won't route anything (understandably).


So I'm just trying to think of what way to best approach it. I was thinking I could try to excessively sand down one side of the top of the door to put an 'angle' on it, but I reckon it'd look sh'te.


Because the kitchen companies are so busy, I doubt they'd even route it for me, either, so can't really do that.


Anyone given this a shot before by any chance?

FrancieBrady

Cut the top of the door at a 45 degree angle? Or at the bottom for upper cabinets. Some great tutorials/channels on youtube on this.

Don't use mdf, use birch ply.

colm_c

Would you not just spec out an ikea kitchen?

They have all the doors etc.

I've thought about doing something similar myself.

Juwwi

I'd get a smaller kitchen company to route the doors and fit them ,,that will be the tricky bit .

listermint

Ply 18mm used that. Also use push pop fittings you won't need handles . They are pressed in and door poos out. Presto.

FrancieBrady

listermint wrote: »

Ply 18mm used that. Also use push pop fittings you won't need handles . They are pressed in and door poos out. Presto.

On to the good carpet? ewwww!

the_pen_turner

Are they inset or overlay doors.

m5ex9oqjawdg2i

What about a door that opens when you press on it? No need for handles really.

listermint

listermint wrote: »

Ply 18mm used that. Also use push pop fittings you won't need handles . They are pressed in and door poos out. Presto.

Ahh.. forgot that even existed! Sounds like the way to go, alright.




For others, this is a picture of the room:








Because of the chimney breast, I can't really use an ikea kitchen, as the wall shape is too awkward for it. If I had a straight wall, i'd go down the route of the Ikea Besta stuff, but unfortunately it wouldn't work out for me with the breast in the room.


There'd be too much dead space and Ikea don't sell filler pieces, and joining the units around the breast would be a pain.


So I reckon getting a cutting list made up is the easier option. Doors mightn't be as hard as they're made out to be.




What's the craic with plywood being recommended though? Is MDF not generally the go-to for this kinda thing if you plan to paint it? (I'm not ruling out birch ply, by the way, i've never used it, so genuinely curious).

listermint

[Deleted User] wrote: »

Ahh.. forgot that even existed! Sounds like the way to go, alright.




For others, this is a picture of the room:








Because of the chimney breast, I can't really use an ikea kitchen, as the wall shape is too awkward for it. If I had a straight wall, i'd go down the route of the Ikea Besta stuff, but unfortunately it wouldn't work out for me with the breast in the room.


There'd be too much dead space and Ikea don't sell filler pieces, and joining the units around the breast would be a pain.


So I reckon getting a cutting list made up is the easier option. Doors mightn't be as hard as they're made out to be.




What's the craic with plywood being recommended though? Is MDF not generally the go-to for this kinda thing if you plan to paint it? (I'm not ruling out birch ply, by the way, i've never used it, so genuinely curious).

Weight to strength. And handier to finish timber.

Also joining IKEA cabinets in is a doddle. You can use ply or MDF for gaps and skirt the bottom and cove the top to give a blend in built look.

FrancieBrady

Deleted User wrote: »

Ahh.. forgot that even existed! Sounds like the way to go, alright.




For others, this is a picture of the room:








Because of the chimney breast, I can't really use an ikea kitchen, as the wall shape is too awkward for it. If I had a straight wall, i'd go down the route of the Ikea Besta stuff, but unfortunately it wouldn't work out for me with the breast in the room.


There'd be too much dead space and Ikea don't sell filler pieces, and joining the units around the breast would be a pain.


So I reckon getting a cutting list made up is the easier option. Doors mightn't be as hard as they're made out to be.




What's the craic with plywood being recommended though? Is MDF not generally the go-to for this kinda thing if you plan to paint it? (I'm not ruling out birch ply, by the way, i've never used it, so genuinely curious).

MDF can look crap if it is not pro finished.

Mdf is dirt,swells up.
Screws pull out over time.
Edges look like **** even when painted.
Cuts like **** unless you have proper sharp panel saw etc etc
Ply is 3x the price but far superior and much easier to work with.

listermint

listermint wrote: »

Weight to strength. And handier to finish timber.

Also joining IKEA cabinets in is a doddle. You can use ply or MDF for gaps and skirt the bottom and cove the top to give a blend in built look.

Yeah but do you not find that when you are finished filling in the gaps and what have you, that the MDF or Ply doesn't look quite the same as the Ikea unit? (ie, the colours might not match up right or such)?

listermint

[Deleted User] wrote: »

Yeah but do you not find that when you are finished filling in the gaps and what have you, that the MDF or Ply doesn't look quite the same as the Ikea unit? (ie, the colours might not match up right or such)?

You paint the whole thing. Not just the new bits.

BrownFinger

BrownFinger wrote: »

Mdf is dirt,swells up.
Screws pull out over time.
Edges look like **** even when painted.
Cuts like **** unless you have proper sharp panel saw etc etc
Ply is 3x the price but far superior and much easier to work with.

Well the idea is to order everything pre-cut, so i'd only be painting and assembling. So cutting wouldn't be a concern, although painting would.


But I am confident I see painted MDF around the place a fair bit and it seems to hold up alright? Do screws really give issue, if you go with a decent thickness sheet (like 18mm for example)?


Also, in reference to swelling, i presume that's just if water gets to it?


Not being argumentative or anything, just really interested as I hadn't considered birch ply for this at all. MDF was my instinctive 'go-to' sheet material to use.

fritzelly

Any good with CAD software? Spec up what you want, print out the measurements and hand it over to Woodworkers (in Dublin?)
Did it myself with a built in wardrobe good few moons ago - was literally just a case of screwing it together (and the wardrobe is still doing grand - so many sections for shoes!!!)
For something that bespoke and if you are capable on the DIY front you would probably end up with something more desirable than anything from the likes of Ikea or a kitchen company

listermint

listermint wrote: »

You paint the whole thing. Not just the new bits.

But isn't ikea stuff melamine faced stuff? Would the paint not just peel off it?

fritzelly

fritzelly wrote: »

Any good with CAD software? Spec up what you want, print out the measurements and hand it over to Woodworkers (in Dublin?)
Did it myself with a built in wardrobe good few moons ago - was literally just a case of screwing it together (and the wardrobe is still doing grand - so many sections for shoes!!!)
For something that bespoke and if you are capable on the DIY front you would probably end up with something more desirable than anything from the likes of Ikea or a kitchen company

I've no CAD software, but if i draw it out, measure it and make a cutting list, a Hoey's DIY in Castlebellingham (closer to me than anything in Dublin) will cut and deliver it for me.


So the same thing, really.

Sure go with the mdf and report back.

mickdw

Would you not order the doors finished. Save an awful lot of messing.
If you went with no handles or recesses, would you go for a push to latch, push to release mechanism.

fritzelly

Deleted User wrote: »

I've no CAD software, but if i draw it out, measure it and make a cutting list, a Hoey's DIY in Castlebellingham (closer to me than anything in Dublin) will cut and deliver it for me.


So the same thing, really.

CAD software will let you play around easily, some free programs and others with trials. At least it will work out the cutting measurements for you. Cannot remember the one I used. Did a similar thing like you did but it was only a small entertainment unit one side of the the chimney breast and worked it out on paper, needed a few "adjustments" when I got the wood. Yours is a bigger project tho.

FrancieBrady

Learnt a lot from this guy's channel:
https://www.youtube.com/user/petermillard1/videos

He has a few vids on paint and finishing MDF.

colm_mcm

Buy Ikea units and cut the carcasses down. MDF won’t stay straight.

colm_mcm

colm_mcm wrote: »

Buy Ikea units and cut the carcasses down. MDF won’t stay straight.

This is the best idea,
But he say he has no tools so could turn into a dogs dinner fast!

FrancieBrady

colm_mcm wrote: »

Buy Ikea units and cut the carcasses down. MDF won’t stay straight.

What are IKEA carcasses made of? Ply?

FrancieBrady

FrancieBrady wrote: »

What are IKEA carcasses made of? Ply?

cardboard

colm_mcm

FrancieBrady wrote: »

What are IKEA carcasses made of? Ply?

Chipboard, but they’re pre drilled for hinges etc so won’t be an issue.
I did a similar job myself.

What I mean about not staying straight is the doors. Better to buy premade doors than use MDF.

listermint

colm_mcm wrote: »

Buy Ikea units and cut the carcasses down. MDF won’t stay straight.

MDF wont stay straight if its been put together badly or incorrect amount or type of hinges are used.

Also door weight, if someone uses 18mm for doors then they are off to a bad start.

Graham

listermint wrote: »

Also door weight, if someone uses 18mm for doors then they are off to a bad start.

ok, curiosity is killing me. Why?

listermint

Graham wrote: »

ok, curiosity is killing me. Why?

Weight of the door. Versus say Plywood the weight of MDF door for the same size and depth would be much heavier meaning more prone to failing.

MDF doors ideally would be created of 12mm, with perhaps a 12mm frame on front. So you end up with same strength but without the weight.

Weight is your biggest enemy on a door.

Graham

Not sure I'd agree there.

Most foil wrapped kitchen doors are 18mm MDF (apart from the flimsy 15mm Ikea jobs). Pretty much all high gloss handleless (J) kitchen doors are 22mm MDF.
Similarly, most wardrobe doors are 18mm MDF foil wrapped MDF.

As long as the right type/number of hinges are use, there shouldn't be a problem with the weight.

The biggest problem the OP is likely to have is the edges of any DIY MDF doors. Unless there's a fair amount of effort put into filling/smoothing the edges, it's likely to be as rough as hell and end up acting like velcro for dust.

listermint

Graham wrote: »

Not sure I'd agree there.

Most foil wrapped kitchen doors are 18mm MDF (apart from the flimsy 15mm Ikea jobs). Pretty much all high gloss handleless (J) kitchen doors are 22mm MDF.
Similarly, most wardrobe doors are 18mm MDF foil wrapped MDF.

As long as the right type/number of hinges are use, there shouldn't be a problem with the weight.

The biggest problem the OP is likely to have is the edges of any DIY MDF doors. Unless there's a fair amount of effort put into filling/smoothing the edges, it's likely to be as rough as hell and end up acting like velcro for dust.

well youd be wrong then wouldnt you.

'Most' foil wrapped doors have centre sections cut out of them for weight reduction also design. and many doors are constructed of multi layer composite of partial MDF and partial other materials including solid wood.

So, no there is always a weight consideration with doors. Any doors.

colm_mcm

listermint wrote: »

MDF wont stay straight if its been put together badly or incorrect amount or type of hinges are used.

Also door weight, if someone uses 18mm for doors then they are off to a bad start.

I would say that your basic DIYer won’t do a good looking job by starting from scratch compared to an off the shelf flat pack.

Graham

listermint wrote: »

'Most' foil wrapped doors have centre sections cut out of them for weight reduction also design. and many doors are constructed of multi layer composite of partial MDF and partial other materials including solid wood.

From the significant ROI/NI manufacturers/distributors, approximately half of the one-piece MDF foil wrapped doors have a design routered out of them before they are wrapped. The single most popular design is the slab door, 18mm foil wrapped MDF.

The Mulk

I've done a similar project, but used a company in Wicklow to supply the units and doors, Foil wrapped MDF, pre drilled for hinges.
I was able cut the back of the base units to cover over the chimney breast. (Although our breast was bigger than the one in your photos and I cut an ope in it for an oven)
I measured it and drew it out by hand and ordered the units direct from their website. They were delivered fully assembled because I spent over €500.
It was easy to fit then

listermint

colm_mcm wrote: »

I would say that your basic DIYer won’t do a good looking job by starting from scratch compared to an off the shelf flat pack.

I'm not sure if you missed the part where I told the op to buy an IKEA kit and extend it.

I shall point you to earlier in the thread

listermint

Graham wrote: »

From the significant ROI/NI manufacturers/distributors, approximately half of the one-piece MDF foil wrapped doors have a design routered out of them before they are wrapped. The single most popular design is the slab door, 18mm foil wrapped MDF.

So earlier it was most.

Now it's half.

I said in the thread already that proper hinges are required as they are heavy doors so that someone starting out with 18mm doors was on to a bad start. Due to weight.

I'm not sure at what point you think any of that is wrong.

Graham

18mm/22mm MDF cabinet doors doors are an industry standard, they're hanging in kitchens up and down the country using standard hinges. That's why I can't understand why you've had problems.

What hinges are you using?

listermint

Graham wrote: »

18mm/22mm MDF cabinet doors doors are an industry standard, they're hanging in kitchens up and down the country using standard hinges. That's why I can't understand why you've had problems.

What hinges are you using?

I haven't had problems. And you ignored everything I said . Twice

Graham

listermint wrote: »

I haven't had problems. And you ignored everything I said . Twice

Cool, so we've established you and the entire KBB industry don't have a problem hanging 18mm MDF doors. It's probably safe to assume the OP will be ok too.

OP, however you make your cabinets, try to stick to standard sizes and just buy the doors. You're unlikely to save money if you get sheet cut to size and you almost certainly won't get anything like a factory finish to the paintwork.

Some randomish thoughts:

• Design your cabinets in heights of 360/570/720/900mm and widths of 300/400/500/600/700/800/900/1000 and you'll find stock doors to suit.
• Use combinations of flatpack cabinets. E.g. a 1000mm and 500mm base for the alcoves.
• Use 150mm plinth (kicker) as filler/frame.
• Use wall cabinets with added legs if you only need shallow base cabinets.
• For your chosen door range, take a look at the matching cornice/pelmet/corpel for the finishing touches.
• Gables (panels) make good open shelves, open shelves will stop the room looking smaller.
• For inspiration, have a look at the marketing shots for most new housing developments.

colm_mcm

listermint wrote: »

I'm not sure if you missed the part where I told the op to buy an IKEA kit and extend it.

I shall point you to earlier in the thread

I’m agreeing with you. Chill!

Howdy do folks.

Just to give an update, reason i wanted to paint MDF was because I wanted to go in a dark blue / navy colour direction.

Turns out Finsa supply Hoeys DIY, who will do me a cutting list. Finsa have a melamine faced chipboard that comes in that kind of colour.

So I asked could hoeys get it for me. They asked me to send on the cutting list with the requested colour and they'd get back to me.

Using 18 mm chipboard is something I've done countless times before so that'd make life a lot easier for me, assuming I can get that colour (fingers crossed).

basillarkin

use mrmdf if going down the mdf route, sands and paints up really well