Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie

Insulated plasterboard fitting

2»

Comments

  • #32
    5T3PH3N
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 542 ✭✭✭5T3PH3N


    GreeBo wrote: »
    How does the board know what its being held in with?

    Foam is used to hold in large windows and doors these days, its highly effective and highly adhesive.


    BTW would you really dot 3 inches of mud onto the back of a board?:eek:

    It’s the workability of standard adhesive that puts it ahead of others methods.

    Foam by itself should not be used to hold windows or doors in, it should be accompanied by concrete screws or similar through the frame or standard window straps.

    You build out the wall with a dab, bit of slab and then a dap again rather than just one big blob.


  • #33
    dathi
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,435 ✭✭✭dathi


    5T3PH3N wrote: »
    It’s the workability of standard adhesive that puts it ahead of others methods.
    You build out the wall with a dab, bit of slab and then a dap again rather than just one big blob.

    and it goes without saying you all use a continuous layer of adhesive at ceiling , skirting around electrical boxes and where the slab abuts a wall


  • #34
    listermint
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,351 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    Still waters wrote: »
    I dont think there's any need to take it personally, I'm just giving my opinion on what I believe to be an inferior product, you may have used it with good results but I find the adhesive to be a better all round product, I've used the foam and it has limitations, I can see why diyers like yourself and the op would be tempted to use a product like this, it's specifically marketed at people who only need to do a small job and it does it fine, but for anything more than sticking a few pieces for patching I'd be using adhesive

    I get it.

    I boarded my entire kitchen in half the time it would take a dabber and his mixing.

    Its not personal btw just a boatload of misinformation I was correcting in the last two pages .

    Foam is not strong ... Foam doesn't allow for correction of wall levels.

    All good stuff.


  • #35
    GreeBo
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 27,474 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    5T3PH3N wrote: »
    It’s the workability of standard adhesive that puts it ahead of others methods.

    Foam by itself should not be used to hold windows or doors in, it should be accompanied by concrete screws or similar through the frame or standard window straps.

    You build out the wall with a dab, bit of slab and then a dap again rather than just one big blob.

    Fixing foam is perfectly fine to use to install windows or doors, its what its designed for and is plenty strong. The glass will come out of the window before the frame comes out of the wall.


    Workability of plaster is a definite plus, but when you have to get into having to build out the wall bit by bit, then you are going to be faster just foaming it in and also going to get a more uniform solution, unless you spend a lot of time with bits of slab and mud and a straight edge feathering it out.
    i.e. you dont need the workability as you dont need to work with the foam like you need to work with plaster (in the context of boarding a room)


  • #36
    rivermisty
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 16 ✭rivermisty


    Just an update on my job. When scraping off loose paint I copped on that the wall had lining paper on it. No point using fixing foam on that as you'd be relying on the wallpaper paste to hold your boards up. So I went with about 16 metal fixings per board into the masonry. If I'd thought of it before hand I would have filled each fixing by punching them into a spare piece of insulation. I wonder is there any way to fill the hollow fixings now that they are in the wall. Or is there any need to?
    Also, should I spray the discs on the end of the fixings with primer before getting a plasterer in?


  • Advertisement
  • #37
    listermint
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,351 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    rivermisty wrote: »
    Just an update on my job. When scraping off loose paint I copped on that the wall had lining paper on it. No point using fixing foam on that as you'd be relying on the wallpaper paste to hold your boards up. So I went with about 16 metal fixings per board into the masonry. If I'd thought of it before hand I would have filled each fixing by punching them into a spare piece of insulation. I wonder is there any way to fill the hollow fixings now that they are in the wall. Or is there any need to?
    Also, should I spray the discs on the end of the fixings with primer before getting a plasterer in?

    Plastic fixings would have been ideal for cold bridging but past that.

    Yes would prime them, spray the end. The can expose rust through to the paint work depending on the fixings you have.


Advertisement