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the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

magicbastarder

is there a simple list of chemicals which you should not get near disc brake pads? i.e. would even something like a detergent cause issues with contamination; i was wondering as i was cleaning the bike earlier if i can be overcautious in cleaning the bike near the brakes.

any tips on looking after a steel frame? my latest purchase has mountings for racks and also a couple of unthreaded holes - should i tape those up to keep water out, or leave them uncovered to let the water out should it get in?

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CramCycle

Best I can think of is either upside down and shake the frame like bejaysus, or a coat hanger suitably bent if there is any space to the side of it, can you see it down the tube?

CantGetNoSleep

CramCycle wrote: »

Best I can think of is either upside down and shake the frame like bejaysus, or a coat hanger suitably bent if there is any space to the side of it, can you see it down the tube?

Yeah I have a repair stand - whatever way it had lodged itself it won't come out just by hanging the frame upside down.

I managed to get a bit of dental floss looped around it today by adding a washer to one end but the floss snapped - tried the same with a shoelace but can't get one end of it looped around.

I worry about a coat hanger damaging the carbon if it were to scratch the inside? There is a very small space either side, I got a flag pole that was close to 10mm wide id say up the side of it but it won't move at all. My only options I think are that or disassemble the cranks and bb - but it's a Cannondale so not that easy to disassemble.

Proper weekend ruining stuff it's that frustrating - trying everything and not something I've ever heard of going wrong with a new bike

[Deleted User]

Would it be simpler to leave it there and try and source a new one from Cannondale or would it cause issue with fitting the seatpost or block it or some other issue?

CrowdedHouse

CantGetNoSleep wrote: »

I worry about a coat hanger damaging the carbon if it were to scratch the inside?

Wrap a layer of electrical tape around the coat hanger ?

CantGetNoSleep

Deleted User wrote: »

Would it be simpler to leave it there and try and source a new one from Cannondale or would it cause issue with fitting the seatpost or block it or some other issue?

With the way it was wedged I'd worry it would damage the seat tube - it would also limit the amount you could lower the saddle as it was less than half way down the tube.

Finally - IT IS OUT though. After trying every tool, kitchen utensil, shoe lace, pieces of string, magnets, dental floss - it somehow wiggled out with a coat hanger with a very small hooked shaped into the end of it, less than the diameter of a pencil. I even made the gf order sushi last night, she thought it was to make up for being in a bad mood all afternoon as she knows I hate sushi even though she loves it - in reality I just wanted the chopsticks.

Hope there is no lasting damage to the inside of the brand new carbon frame - I really had to force it out in the end as it wasn't moving up or down and a few of the things I tried could have scratched by moving the part itself around. There is a gear cable end cover stuck inside the frame somewhere too but I will just have to live with that I think.

Word of warning for anyone getting a Cannnondale frame - don't take out the seatpost without making sure the clamp is secure (even though it was a Cannondale dealer who did this, not me).

Thanks for the advice - one of the more frustrating things I've had go wrong with a bike (and definitely a brand new bike)

cdaly_

Yep, that'll work (probably). You're reducing the tooth count of your chainrings by 2 or 4 and increasing the cassette by 2 so the derailleur now has less to take up.

If you're going to 46/30, why not go 46/26 for an even lower climbing gear?

Mind you, I haven't yet managed to climb the Dying Cow in 26x32 (front x rear) without putting a foot down...

CramCycle

Weepsie wrote: »

I'm assuming this is a no but:

I've a bike that's currently set up with a Compact 50/34 crankset and an 11-32 cassette. The RD is basically at it's limit as it's a Tiagra 4601 (long cage) and it's listed as 30t maximum.

However, if I wished to change the front to a 48/32 or 46/30, will that offset anything and allow me to change to an 11-34 at the back? I basically want to be able to get up a vertical wall!

So your new front set up has still a 16t gap, your rear cassette has a 23t gap. Your 9t over the limit by your reckoning but a quick google says the capacity on a Tiagra 10 speed GS derailleur is 40t, not 30t.

CramCycle

Weepsie wrote: »

Sorry max sprocket is listed as 30t. I had that wrong and ignored capacity due to always getting confused (though I realise now it's simple).

I'd be pushing my luck with an 11-36 in the 48/32 set up though. 11-34 with a 48/32 sounds like it'ts worth a go anyway.

I'd say the 32 is doable as they always have excess built in, 34 I imagine would be cutting it very close, no hope of a 36.

mirrormatrix

Have a rather annoying click that I can't track down. Only happens periodically (i.e. not on every pedal rotation). Usually only happens when i'm pushing the pace or climbing. It sometimes happens when I sit back in the saddle after sprint, but have regreased/tightened all bolts there to no avail. Any ideas on common issues to check? Headset is my next port of call.

Macy0161

mirrormatrix wrote: »

Headset is my next port of call.

When I was getting something similar earlier in the year, on my carbon bike, it was the headset.

cletus

I have a small issue on my bike. When in the highest gear, I get a clicking noise on the downstroke of the right pedal, but only if im putting pressure down, not if I'm just maintaining speed

CramCycle

cletus wrote: »

I have a small issue on my bike. When in the highest gear, I get a clicking noise on the downstroke of the right pedal, but only if im putting pressure down, not if I'm just maintaining speed

Derailleur not aligned properly? Crankset or chainrings slightly (almost unnoticeably) loose?

brianomc

mirrormatrix wrote: »

Have a rather annoying click that I can't track down. Only happens periodically (i.e. not on every pedal rotation). Usually only happens when i'm pushing the pace or climbing. It sometimes happens when I sit back in the saddle after sprint, but have regreased/tightened all bolts there to no avail. Any ideas on common issues to check? Headset is my next port of call.

Take the seatpost out, wipe it clean, regrease (with clean gloves/hands) and put it back in. A small bit of grit can get in and make that clicking sound. Usually when putting extra effort in too so it sounds a lot like this could be your issue.

cletus

CramCycle wrote: »

Derailleur not aligned properly? Crankset or chainrings slightly (almost unnoticeably) loose?

Thanks for the reply CramCycle. I had the derailleur adjusted, and checked the chain rings myself. How would I go go about tightening the crankset

mirrormatrix

brianomc wrote: »

Take the seatpost out, wipe it clean, regrease (with clean gloves/hands) and put it back in. A small bit of grit can get in and make that clicking sound. Usually when putting extra effort in too so it sounds a lot like this could be your issue.

Thanks. You might well be right. Will give this a go this evening.

CramCycle

cletus wrote: »

Thanks for the reply CramCycle. I had the derailleur adjusted, and checked the chain rings myself. How would I go go about tightening the crankset

Grab the pedal end of the crank and see is there any play in it. back and forth. If your derailleur is close, it maybe the added weight in the downstroke rubbing it?

Also is it one click per rotation or multiple creaks?

magicbastarder

someone really needs to write an app which will record the click/creak, and diagnose it via scientific jiggery-pokery.

cletus

CramCycle wrote: »

Grab the pedal end of the crank and see is there any play in it. back and forth. If your derailleur is close, it maybe the added weight in the downstroke rubbing it?

Also is it one click per rotation or multiple creaks?

Couple of quick ticks

CramCycle

cletus wrote: »

Couple of quick ticks

This is all guesswork but it may just be the outer bit of the chainlinks rubbing the derailleur when it is under pressure. If the crankset is in no way loose, then it could just be the derailleur is a mm to close to the chainring.

Budawanny

Hi Lads, not strictly a maintenance question but kind of..
my rear rim on my commuter is gone quite a bit concave from wear (hybrid, giant escape 0).
just wondering would it be common to ask the LBS to replace the rim? ive spoken to a few guys about replacing the wheel but they never mention just replacing the rim so im wondering am i being dopey :-)
cheers

CramCycle

Budawanny wrote: »

Hi Lads, not strictly a maintenance question but kind of..
my rear rim on my commuter is gone quite a bit concave from wear (hybrid, giant escape 0).
just wondering would it be common to ask the LBS to replace the rim? ive spoken to a few guys about replacing the wheel but they never mention just replacing the rim so im wondering am i being dopey :-)
cheers

Perfectly doable, not sure how many would but there are a few.

Type 17

It’s usually cheaper to buy a new wheel than have a new rim laced onto the existing one, and if it’s got enough km to wear out the rim, the hub and spokes are probably worn out too. Probably the onlty time it’s wirth it is if it’s a new, expensive wheel and the rim gets damaged in an accident.

magicbastarder

unless it's a particularly good wheel, it might be cheaper to replace the entire wheel than stick a new rim on the hub and rebuild it?

Budawanny

magicbastarder wrote: »

unless it's a particularly good wheel, it might be cheaper to replace the entire wheel than stick a new rim on the hub and rebuild it?

that's a good point. its not particularly good at all, factory wheel that came with the bike, circa 8 years old now..

thanks!
ill look into buying a wheel .

Budawanny

Type 17 wrote: »

It’s usually cheaper to buy a new wheel than have a new rim laced onto the existing one, and if it’s got enough km to wear out the rim, the hub and spokes are probably worn out too. Probably the onlty time it’s wirth it is if it’s a new, expensive wheel and the rim gets damaged in an accident.

Nice one, thanks. new wheel it is.

Budawanny

CramCycle wrote: »

Perfectly doable, not sure how many would but there are a few.

thanks

brownian

mirrormatrix wrote: »

Have a rather annoying click that I can't track down. Only happens periodically (i.e. not on every pedal rotation). Usually only happens when i'm pushing the pace or climbing. It sometimes happens when I sit back in the saddle after sprint, but have regreased/tightened all bolts there to no avail. Any ideas on common issues to check? Headset is my next port of call.

Headset, saddle, pedals. I had one for ages that turned out to be my saddle.

MacAttackJ

Good morning all. I currently have Continental Cyclocross Speed Bike Tyres (700c, 35c) on my Ridgeback Flight. Whilst not actually Cyclocross tyres (bit of marketing there), I am happy with how they handle on my daily commute. The problem with them is they wear down quite quickly and I need to replace again having suffered a few punctures of late. What I am looking for is a Gatorskin style, puncture resistant, good grip tyre that comes in size 35. Looking at Gatorskins, they are all either of the slick variety or don’t come in 35’s. Any ideas? Many thanks.

seamus

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/schwalbe-marathon-touring-tyre-greenguard/rp-prod69133

****ing great tyre. Been using exclusively them on my commuter for nearly a decade now. I can count the number of punctures in that time on one hand.

MojoMaker

Re: the creaking sounds from mirrormatrix and cleatus. Are you running press fit bottom brackets? hateful things...

Creaking on one side only, creaking when climbing or stomping, little or no noise when spinning?