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Bacteriosol

  • 05-09-2018 9:26pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 243 ✭✭


    Anyone on here used bacteriosol by sobac seen it advertised on done deal just wondering is it any good or a snake oil product.


«1

Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 11,025 ✭✭✭✭Say my name


    Anyone on here used bacteriosol by sobac seen it advertised on done deal just wondering is it any good or a snake oil product.

    You may use it yourself and get back to us. :)

    https://www.theirishfield.ie/horse-sense-a-natural-alternative-to-chemical-fertilisers-270882/

    Seems like it would be an ideal partner for any rock dust applied too.


  • Registered Users Posts: 285 ✭✭Upstream


    Anyone on here used bacteriosol by sobac seen it advertised on done deal just wondering is it any good or a snake oil product.

    I used it this year, spread the slurry on some silage and grazing ground, only added to the tank when it was being mixed for spreading, for best results you're meant to start adding when cattle are going into the shed to prevent N loss over the winter.
    The contractor doing the bales noticed the better yield and asked if I'd done anything different. I got about 15 bales to the acre where is normally get around 12, so I think I got some kind of return from it.
    I think it's worth trying to see what response you get. But I don't know how it works. I think it's a mixture of humic acid and some soil biology.
    We have a lot to learn about what plants and soils need to take care of them.


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,025 ✭✭✭✭Say my name


    Upstream wrote: »
    I used it this year, spread the slurry on some silage and grazing ground, only added to the tank when it was being mixed for spreading, for best results you're meant to start adding when cattle are going into the shed to prevent N loss over the winter.
    The contractor doing the bales noticed the better yield and asked if I'd done anything different. I got about 15 bales to the acre where is normally get around 12, so I think I got some kind of return from it.
    I think it's worth trying to see what response you get. But I don't know how it works. I think it's a mixture of humic acid and some soil biology.
    We have a lot to learn about what plants and soils need to take care of them.
    Did you spread any p and k in your fertilizer when using the bacteriolit in your slurry?
    Did you spread the bacteriosol as well?

    Reports seemingly coming back positive about both products.

    If there's any sobac salespeople/representatives reading this I'd be very interested to know if there's any Archaea bacteria in this.


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,058 ✭✭✭✭mahoney_j


    Did you spread any p and k in your fertilizer when using the bacteriolit in your slurry?
    Did you spread the bacteriosol as well?

    Reports seemingly coming back positive about both products.

    If there's any sobac salespeople/representatives reading this I'd be very interested to know if there's any Archaea bacteria in this.

    Crowd near me sell lots of this and know of one lad using both products on a highly stocked dairy farm with very good results .when I first heard of it I thought it was just dressed up farm yard manure but that changed after an open day on his farm .2 test plots were dug in different fields and field that used both sobac products had way better soil structure ,deeper roots and way more earthworms farmer wasn’t physically measuring grass but field that was treated def grew more grass was grazed more often and. Lean outs better .ill dig out number of company selling it later and dm u


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,025 ✭✭✭✭Say my name


    mahoney_j wrote: »
    Crowd near me sell lots of this and know of one lad using both products on a highly stocked dairy farm with very good results .when I first heard of it I thought it was just dressed up farm yard manure but that changed after an open day on his farm .2 test plots were dug in different fields and field that used both sobac products had way better soil structure ,deeper roots and way more earthworms farmer wasn’t physically measuring grass but field that was treated def grew more grass was grazed more often and. Lean outs better .ill dig out number of company selling it later and dm u
    Cheers yea thanks Mahoney. :)


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  • Registered Users Posts: 4,922 ✭✭✭alps


    mahoney_j wrote: »
    Crowd near me sell lots of this and know of one lad using both products on a highly stocked dairy farm with very good results .when I first heard of it I thought it was just dressed up farm yard manure but that changed after an open day on his farm .2 test plots were dug in different fields and field that used both sobac products had way better soil structure ,deeper roots and way more earthworms farmer wasn’t physically measuring grass but field that was treated def grew more grass was grazed more often and. Lean outs better .ill dig out number of company selling it later and dm u

    His brother top class well known farmer. It would be a good test of the product to see if he has been persuaded and is using it.....


  • Registered Users Posts: 285 ✭✭Upstream


    Did you spread any p and k in your fertilizer when using the bacteriolit in your slurry?
    Did you spread the bacteriosol as well?

    Reports seemingly coming back positive about both products.

    If there's any sobac salespeople/representatives reading this I'd be very interested to know if there's any Archaea bacteria in this.

    I just used the bacteriolit in the slurry in the spring time, I haven't spread any chemical n, p, or k in years, the ground gets pig and cattle slurry and most of it's in index 3 or 4.
    I did soil tests before the bacteriolit went out, but didn't have the results back before getting the Bacteriolit - I was expecting the results to be a lot worse for lack of chemical fertilizer, the silage ground gets two cuts a year which would be quite hard on it, the grazing ground is a middling stocked beef system. But the soil test results were pretty good and then I thought I'd wasted money on the Sobac, but then the yields were up so I'm happy enough, but if you're looking for a reference I'd look for a better farmer than me :)

    After seeing your post on another thread I want to build one of those Johnson Su Bioreactors this year and I'm wondering if I should inoculate with some Sobac. I still have a couple of bags lying over, so I think I'll throw them into the mix to see what happens.


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,025 ✭✭✭✭Say my name


    Well done on your results. :)
    At the end of the day that's what it's all about is saving money and if you're producing the same as before or more even better.

    I'd really love to know what exactly is in the bacteriosol and bacteriolit before using. The bacteriolit I'd have an idea because I got a pm one time here from a salesman about other slurry bugs so I'd have no qualms in using on slurry. The bacteriosol there could be added fungi spores in a plant based medium in it or Archaea in it. But leaning to the fungi spores. Mycellium does after all increase nutrients to a growing plant.

    The whole basis of the Johnson Su bioreactor is to make fungi spores from manure and wood chips and leaves and such. I'd research the sh1t of these bioreactors before going ahead and make sure to have a watering system for the compost. Non chlorinated water. And sure every farm never has a shortage of pallets.

    The inoculation of seeds with the juice from the reactor and mixing the juice with a milk (non pasturised) and molasses mixture beforehand is pretty cool. Again it's all about getting the seeds inoculated with fungi spores from the compost before sowing.

    It's interesting that David Johnson's history was in microbiology not agriculture so he came at it from that angle.

    But sure if you don't try these things you'll never know and we only get one chance on the planet to try them out and before you know it your time is up.

    Good luck whichever way you go at it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,380 ✭✭✭Wildsurfer


    There was a bacteriosol sales tent at ploughing yesterday. They are based in Nenagh area. Said that there is no need for any p, k or lime just use this product to 'unlock' the soils potential. He did have a good line about trees not needing artificial fertilizers to grow in the open as they do!


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,927 ✭✭✭yosemitesam1


    Well done on your results. :)
    At the end of the day that's what it's all about is saving money and if you're producing the same as before or more even better.

    I'd really love to know what exactly is in the bacteriosol and bacteriolit before using. The bacteriolit I'd have an idea because I got a pm one time here from a salesman about other slurry bugs so I'd have no qualms in using on slurry. The bacteriosol there could be added fungi spores in a plant based medium in it or Archaea in it. But leaning to the fungi spores. Mycellium does after all increase nutrients to a growing plant.

    The whole basis of the Johnson Su bioreactor is to make fungi spores from manure and wood chips and leaves and such. I'd research the sh1t of these bioreactors before going ahead and make sure to have a watering system for the compost. Non chlorinated water. And sure every farm never has a shortage of pallets.

    The inoculation of seeds with the juice from the reactor and mixing the juice with a milk (non pasturised) and molasses mixture beforehand is pretty cool. Again it's all about getting the seeds inoculated with fungi spores from the compost before sowing.

    It's interesting that David Johnson's history was in microbiology not agriculture so he came at it from that angle.

    But sure if you don't try these things you'll never know and we only get one chance on the planet to try them out and before you know it your time is up.

    Good luck whichever way you go at it.

    Was the label of this posted on here a while ago. There was something based mainly on humic acid. That provides an exclusive source of food for soil fungi and would probably be responsible for most of the benefits


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  • Registered Users Posts: 11 dair_ghaelach


    Are there any more people out there who've trialled Bacteriosol since? We have ground that is index 2 in P and K, pH is fine. Got about three bags/acre of 10-10-20 last year and still low indexes after soil test in February, no silage took, only sheep grazing it. We don't have slurry or FYM to put out so looking into some alternatives.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,137 ✭✭✭Dinzee Conlee


    Are there any more people out there who've trialled Bacteriosol since? We have ground that is index 2 in P and K, pH is fine. Got about three bags/acre of 10-10-20 last year and still low indexes after soil test in February, no silage took, only sheep grazing it. We don't have slurry or FYM to put out so looking into some alternatives.

    I am thinking of going with some in the summer... Same situation as yourself, sheep only no slurry...

    Have you priced it, tisn't cheap :(


  • Registered Users Posts: 11 dair_ghaelach


    I am thinking of going with some in the summer... Same situation as yourself, sheep only no slurry...

    Have you priced it, tisn't cheap :(

    No pricing done yet, for some reason I have a figure in my head of near 100€ for a 25kg bag?


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,025 ✭✭✭✭Say my name


    A sprayer is an investment the pair of ye sheep farmers should look into.
    And or look at the alternative pasture plants with grass.

    Sprayer wise if ye've no dung or slurry then ye need to look at humic acid and molasses.
    Dinzee I think you mentioned you sprayed molasses before and didn't get much of a result. Molasses is not really meant to go on it's own. It's a carrier/multiplier for microbial life or goes with a nutrient mineral source such as seaweed, fish, etc.

    Now humic acid. If ye're really broke and can't afford to buy. Find an open aged dungheap on a field that has liquid seepage. Claim you're saving the world to the farmer. Dig a hole. Stick in a barrel or ibc tank and put that in your sprayer. Mix in molasses if you want but you'd be breaking new ground. But I have used the liquid from a dungheap and sprayed straight and it's ok.
    I sprayed it on ground that was harvested for grass turf. Inch of topsoil taken off. It did definitely help make it soil again.


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,025 ✭✭✭✭Say my name


    If ye really want to go further down the rabbit hole.

    Graeme Sait the regenerative guru says calcium, silica and boron are the three pillars to regenerative farming and soil life as nitrogen, phosphorus and potash are to conventional thinking and neglecting soil life.


  • Registered Users Posts: 21,104 ✭✭✭✭Water John


    Listening to Tom Fouhy this evening. He says there's enough P and K in the ground for about 400 years, just need the right plants to mine and utilise it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 25 Hill Bill


    Say my name,

    What ratio/ dilution would you spray the Humic Acid & Molasses at?

    I have a sprayer & am interested in trying something different, i can grow good grass but feel it’s always looking for it’s next fix of nitrogen!


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,025 ✭✭✭✭Say my name


    Hill Bill wrote: »
    Say my name,

    What ratio/ dilution would you spray the Humic Acid & Molasses at?

    I have a sprayer & am interested in trying something different, i can grow good grass but feel it’s always looking for it’s next fix of nitrogen!

    I haven't used commercially available humic acid. Commercially available humic acid is usually the run off from lignite coal mines. Put in a container and sold. Nothing wrong with it.
    But I have used humic acid from a dungheap. I've used it straight. At 100 litres/ acre. And molasses when I use it in a mix it's usually at 4 litres/ acre.

    If you're ground is like that dependent on n. You really need to get things going. I've used calcified seaweed last year spread with the fert spreader and thought that brought some benefit too.
    Tbh the posts above in the thread have me wondering should I be going myself with this bacteriolit.

    I'm starting to become a believer in that any fert applied should have all the whole range of minerals applied. By that any natural fertilizer will have.
    Even coming down to the sheep. What minerals they take in will go out on the ground. So free choice whatever salt or mineral blocks you think they require.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,927 ✭✭✭yosemitesam1


    A sprayer is an investment the pair of ye sheep farmers should look into.
    And or look at the alternative pasture plants with grass.

    Sprayer wise if ye've no dung or slurry then ye need to look at humic acid and molasses.
    Dinzee I think you mentioned you sprayed molasses before and didn't get much of a result. Molasses is not really meant to go on it's own. It's a carrier/multiplier for microbial life or goes with a nutrient mineral source such as seaweed, fish, etc.

    Now humic acid. If ye're really broke and can't afford to buy. Find an open aged dungheap on a field that has liquid seepage. Claim you're saving the world to the farmer. Dig a hole. Stick in a barrel or ibc tank and put that in your sprayer. Mix in molasses if you want but you'd be breaking new ground. But I have used the liquid from a dungheap and sprayed straight and it's ok.
    I sprayed it on ground that was harvested for grass turf. Inch of topsoil taken off. It did definitely help make it soil again.
    That dung water would be very different to humic acid in how it would behave. Humic acid comes from dissolving lignin and recondensing it back into a completely different form. Doesn't occur naturally


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,137 ✭✭✭Dinzee Conlee


    That dung water would be very different to humic acid in how it would behave. Humic acid comes from dissolving lignin and recondensing it back into a completely different form. Doesn't occur naturally

    Is humic acid something you can buy yosemite?
    And is it something people do spray on crops/grass?


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,927 ✭✭✭yosemitesam1


    Is humic acid something you can buy yosemite?
    And is it something people do spray on crops/grass?

    Yes, don't know where the best place would be.
    Very good for boosting soil fungi


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,025 ✭✭✭✭Say my name


    That dung water would be very different to humic acid in how it would behave. Humic acid comes from dissolving lignin and recondensing it back into a completely different form. Doesn't occur naturally

    I'd consider it'd have to be better..based on no knowledge whatsoever..just a hunch. :D

    Why say it doesn't occur naturally?
    A Google search brings up it occurs naturally in soils, peats, oceans and freshwater.
    A brown river is brown from humic sources ..usually.

    I read a tweet not so long ago about the dangers of dung water. Even showed a burnt patch of ground below the heap.
    Any experienced farmer knows it burns veg below the heap but on the boundaries of that burned patch is a boundary of luxury growth to the rest of the field.

    Myself and a few more call it humic acid anyways.
    Not bothered about ye intellectual types.. ;):p


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,927 ✭✭✭yosemitesam1


    I'd consider it'd have to be better..based on no knowledge whatsoever..just a hunch. :D

    Why say it doesn't occur naturally?
    A Google search brings up it occurs naturally in soils, peats, oceans and freshwater.
    A brown river is brown from humic sources ..usually.

    I read a tweet not so long ago about the dangers of dung water. Even showed a burnt patch of ground below the heap.
    Any experienced farmer knows it burns veg below the heap but on the boundaries of that burned patch is a boundary of luxury growth to the rest of the field.

    Myself and a few more call it humic acid anyways.
    Not bothered about ye intellectual types.. ;):p
    Dung water+humic acid is what ya want!

    Humic acid is a product of the "test", its not actually there until lignin goes through the process of being torn apart and put back together. But it's then like steroids for soil fungi


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,025 ✭✭✭✭Say my name


    Dung water+humic acid is what ya want!

    Humic acid is a product of the "test", its not actually there until lignin goes through the process of being torn apart and put back together. But it's then like steroids for soil fungi
    I'll agree to disagree..if that's allowed? :)

    Humic acid has been on this planet since the first carbon based organism developed. Totally natural.
    Attributing it to a man made process is totally bonkers.

    Dinzee ye can purchase it if you wish from a company with Graeme Sait as CEO that has a distributor here in Belfast.
    It's extremely costly though.
    And there's fulvic acid too.. can be used to thin down herbicides and for a foliar feed.


  • Registered Users Posts: 21,104 ✭✭✭✭Water John


    Is humic acid not released when you plough down lea ground? Isn't that why you should avoid planting into it for 14 days if possible?


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,043 ✭✭✭funkey_monkey


    Anyone using Bacteriolit? Quite a few testimonies now on YT from Irish farmers singing its praises. Seems most seem to be speaking from the point of 3 years usage at least from time of interviews.

    One with Kim McCall said he calves were up 30kg - 40kg from previous years. I'm sure there were other factors involved, but its an impressive figure regardless.


    Soil.ie has a video up saying you can reduce chemical nitrogen inputs by a minimum of 30% with this product. TBH - I don't really understand much of this stuff. It has always been a very conventional system here.

    Has there been any independent studies into it?



  • Registered Users Posts: 943 ✭✭✭tellmeabit


    Where can you buy?



  • Registered Users Posts: 8,043 ✭✭✭funkey_monkey


    @tellmeabit These guys sell it in Ireland:




  • Registered Users Posts: 943 ✭✭✭tellmeabit


    Thanks



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  • Registered Users Posts: 4,508 ✭✭✭straight


    Sounds like it's worth a try to me. I'll order a pallet of it. I've been following them for years now and I've spoken to farmer that use it.



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