Replace 13A switch with a 20A switch?

metricspaces · 17-07-2018 07:47AM #1

Can I safely replace a current 13A switch with a 20A switch?

I currently have a fused switch above my washing machine with socket below it for the washing machine. The switch has a 13A fuse in it. It looks like this https://www.click4electrics.co.uk/click-mode-white-connection-unit-c-328_516_342_16/click-mode-13a-switched-fused-spur-cma651-p-27. The current switch is white plastic. I want to replace it with a chrome switch that has a neon light on it and has "washing machine" printed on it.

Click Deco is the brand I am going with. They have a switch matching what I want, the only problem is that it is a 20A switch. See switch here http://www.sparkydirect.co.uk/product/3932/24522/MD023BSWM/Click-MiniGrid-20-Amp-DP-Twin-Width-Ingot-Switch-Module-With-Neon-Brushed-Steel-Printed-With-Washing-Machine-/index.html . It doesn't look like you can replace the fuse as I can't see any removable compartment? But surely it must be possible to replace the fuse, otherwise you'd have to buy a whole new switch when it blows?

17-07-2018 07:52AM

That depends, is the circuit is protected by an MCB rated at no more than 20A and what is the spur outlet supplying? If it is supplying a socket outlet on a suitably sized cable and the MCB is 20A this would be acceptable.

metricspaces · 17-07-2018 07:56AM

2011 wrote: »

That depends, is the circuit is protected by an MCB rated at no more than 20A and what is the spur outlet supplying? If it is supplying a socket outlet on a suitably sized cable and the MCB is 20A this would be acceptable.

Thanks for the reply! Unfortunately I don't know the answer to either of these things. Is there any way I can figure this out (without getting an electrician in)?

Also, do you know if these type of switches would have a removable fuse? If they do, then it's not really a big issue as I can just order this 20A switch and replace the fuse with a 13A one.

hufpc8w3adnk65 · 17-07-2018 08:04AM

metricspaces wrote: »

Thanks for the reply! Unfortunately I don't know the answer to either of these things. Is there any way I can figure this out (without getting an electrician in)?

Also, do you know if these type of switches would have a removable fuse? If they do, then it's not really a big issue as I can just order this 20A switch and replace the fuse with a 13A one.

They are two completely different items. One is a 13amp Switched Fused Spur the other is a 20amp switched spur. The second does not have a fused compartment. Really tho as your going to be interfering with the protection of the circuit you should be calling a REC to carry out these works

Dardania · 17-07-2018 08:08AM

MrMac84 wrote: »

metricspaces wrote: »

Thanks for the reply! Unfortunately I don't know the answer to either of these things. Is there any way I can figure this out (without getting an electrician in)?

Also, do you know if these type of switches would have a removable fuse? If they do, then it's not really a big issue as I can just order this 20A switch and replace the fuse with a 13A one.

They are two completely different items. One is a 13amp Switched Fused Spur the other is a 20amp switched spur. The second does not have a fused compartment. Really tho as your going to be interfering with the protection of the circuit you should be calling a REC to carry out these works

There will still be the protective device upstream, and the fuse in the plug to the washing machine.
I suspect this is one of these kitchen level switches that were required when the rule were updated in 2008. I deliberately didn't specify Fused switches for this purpose presuming that there was a fuse in the downstream plugtop - too many fuses will just make troubleshooting issues difficult.

metricspaces · 17-07-2018 08:13AM

MrMac84 wrote: »

They are two completely different items. One is a 13amp Switched Fused Spur the other is a 20amp switched spur. The second does not have a fused compartment. Really tho as your going to be interfering with the protection of the circuit you should be calling a REC to carry out these works

Thanks. I am replacing all the switches in my house. So yes I will get a REC to do the work, I just want to order everything now myself.

The Click brand also do a 13amp switched spur. Is it safer for me to buy this one instead?

(The only reason I am favouring the 20amp switch spur as it has a neon light, the 13amp one is a single width switch with no neon light)

What is a "switched spur" and how is it different to a "switched fused spur"?

metricspaces · 17-07-2018 08:15AM

Dardania wrote: »

There will still be the protective device upstream, and the fuse in the plug to the washing machine.
I suspect this is one of these

Yes, this switch is at the worktop level in my utility room. The plug for the washing machine of course has its own fuse.

hufpc8w3adnk65 · 17-07-2018 08:19AM

metricspaces wrote: »

Thanks. I am replacing all the switches in my house. So yes I will get a REC to do the work, I just want to order everything now myself.

The Click brand also do a 13amp switched spur. Is it safer for me to buy this one instead?

(The only reason I am favouring the 20amp switch spur as it has a neon light, the 13amp one is a single width switch with no neon light)

Whilst I don’t mind click stuff and have a bit of it in my own house I wouldn’t advise ordering yourself directly. I’ve had countless issues in the past with USB’s on twin sockets not working, indicator lights not working. Rockers on switch’s breaking. If you get the REC to supply them he’ll replace anything faulty and let the wholesalers follow up with click. Otherwise your creating work for your self for minimal savings. Also the REC will get the items at a cheaper VAT rate then you will

metricspaces · 17-07-2018 08:40AM

MrMac84 wrote: »

Whilst I don’t mind click stuff and have a bit of it in my own house I wouldn’t advise ordering yourself directly. I’ve had countless issues in the past with USB’s on twin sockets not working, indicator lights not working. Rockers on switch’s breaking. If you get the REC to supply them he’ll replace anything faulty and let the wholesalers follow up with click. Otherwise your creating work for your self for minimal savings. Also the REC will get the items at a cheaper VAT rate then you will

Yeah I guess there's pros\cons for either approach and I'll price up both ways, then decide.

The Click brand also do a 13amp switched spur. Is it safer for me to buy this one instead? I am replacing like for like then? And if I'm replacing all like-for-like there's no need for the expense of a REC ( http://grantengineering.ie/products/new-electrical-requirements/ )

What is a "switched spur" and how is it different to a "switched fused spur"?

Risteard81 · 17-07-2018 06:49PM

The first one is a Switched Fused Connection Unit which can connect as a spur (fused spur).
The second is a double pole switch and not a spur.
Calling a double pole switch a switched spur is incorrect and misleading. Switched spur would be used to refer to a switched fused connection unit (FCU) as opposed to an unswitched FCU.

metricspaces · 20-07-2018 08:06AM

Risteard81 wrote: »

The first one is a Switched Fused Connection Unit which can connect as a spur (fused spur).
The second is a double pole switch and not a spur.
Calling a double pole switch a switched spur is incorrect and misleading. Switched spur would be used to refer to a switched fused connection unit (FCU) as opposed to an unswitched FCU.

Thanks. Is it ok for me to replace the first one with the second one? They both have a fuse?

DublinDilbert · 20-07-2018 08:12AM

If the plug is still fitted to the washing machine (not hardwired) it will have a 13a fuse fitted, so a 20a switch above the counter would be preferred to the switched fused spur currently there.

20-07-2018 09:27AM

DublinDilbert wrote: »

If the plug is still fitted to the washing machine (not hardwired) it will have a 13a fuse fitted, so a 20a switch above the counter would be preferred to the switched fused spur currently there.

Yes, that is the point I was making.

Jennehy · 20-07-2018 09:41AM

MrMac84 wrote: »

Whilst I don’t mind click stuff and have a bit of it in my own house I wouldn’t advise ordering yourself directly. I’ve had countless issues in the past with USB’s on twin sockets not working, indicator lights not working. Rockers on switch’s breaking. If you get the REC to supply them he’ll replace anything faulty and let the wholesalers follow up with click. Otherwise your creating work for your self for minimal savings. Also the REC will get the items at a cheaper VAT rate then you will

Is it the product or the person as click brand is good. Never have any issues. We sell out products at retail price same as if bought over counter non trade price.

metricspaces · 20-07-2018 06:20PM

DublinDilbert wrote: »

If the plug is still fitted to the washing machine (not hardwired) it will have a 13a fuse fitted, so a 20a switch above the counter would be preferred to the switched fused spur currently there.

Yes plug is fitted to washing machine with 13A fuse.

Why is 20A preferred? Washing machine only needs 13A so I'm wondering what the thinking is of letting 20A through?

DublinDilbert · 20-07-2018 09:00PM

metricspaces wrote: »

Yes plug is fitted to washing machine with 13A fuse.

Why is 20A preferred? Washing machine only needs 13A so I'm wondering what the thinking is of letting 20A through?

You don't really want two 13a fuses in the circuit, no discrimination. Not the end of the world, but not best practice.

The 20a rating is the max current the switch can safely carry, which should be the rating of the mcb in the fuse board.

21-07-2018 08:31AM

My preferred solutions not to have a plug / socket arrangement behind a washing machine as have been known to fail due to the relatively high load. I also feel that it is best not to locate a fuse behind a washing machine as it is hard to replace int he event that it fails. For this reason I feel it is best to supply a washing machine from an accessible spur outlet.

Replace 13A switch with a 20A switch?

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