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Detailing chat

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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 24,633 ✭✭✭✭punisher5112


    Duff wrote: »
    Excellent advice. Thanks alot. Took me nearly 5 hours to do and I now have delts Arnie would be proud of, but it's completely transformed the car. Delighted with the results. Must invest in a machine polisher, though :pac:



    You will be amazed at what you can get from it.
    It's hard work but it's something that will stand out from all the other cars around.

    See so many high end cars and you would hardly see even the light reflect they're that bad with swirls and faded so much.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,172 ✭✭✭EPAndlee


    You will be amazed at what you can get from it.
    It's hard work but it's something that will stand out from all the other cars around.

    See so many high end cars and you would hardly see even the light reflect they're that bad with swirls and faded so much.

    I seen a 151 A4 yesterday and there was no reflection from either side of the car just completely flat dead paint. It's a shame there isn't enough places to get a proper car wash


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 24,633 ✭✭✭✭punisher5112


    EPAndlee wrote: »
    I seen a 151 A4 yesterday and there was no reflection from either side of the car just completely flat dead paint. It's a shame there isn't enough places to get a proper car wash

    Most get in and once it starts and drives they're not bothered.

    It's like the likes of m3 or m5 and amg etc and genuine real ones and them in shiite


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,845 ✭✭✭Noccy_Mondy


    Will have the loan of a numatic wet vac soon. Want to shampoo the interior of the fleet. Seems to be a decent wet vac, it's blue, like George but without the eyes....

    Anyway... What shampoos would be recommended...

    And, proper procedure, want to do floors, mats and seats

    Cheers.

    Anyone have any tips?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 24,633 ✭✭✭✭punisher5112


    Anyone have any tips?

    Hi I got this off Curran.
    Amazing stuff.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,014 ✭✭✭high horse


    Anyone have any tips?

    I used a Vax carpet cleaner when I did my car, it was very effective

    http://www.argos.ie/static/Product/partNumber/1283338/Trail/searchtext%3EVAX.htm


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,719 ✭✭✭Hal1


    Only use a small measure of the cleaning detergent in the wet vac, or it will foam up and clog the machine. There won't be any suction.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,816 ✭✭✭Benzino


    Doing some research into claying and a good clay lubes, and found this video where he says don't clay unless you machine polish afterwards (skip to 5:50).



    What are peoples thoughts on this?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 51,538 ✭✭✭✭bazz26


    Anyone got a recommendation for a good rain/water repellent applicator for the bodywork?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,507 ✭✭✭clubberlang12


    Benzino wrote: »
    Doing some research into claying and a good clay lubes, and found this video where he says don't clay unless you machine polish afterwards (skip to 5:50).



    What are peoples thoughts on this?

    It's one of the reasons I don't offer any claying processes on any treatments i provide unless there is an element of machine polishing afterwards. Said it on forums/groups before but i find it hard to believe there isn't some level of marring taking place when you clay, especially as you are picking stubborn contamination as you clay which can/does carry along the surface. When claying, i break the clay bar into 3 to 4 pieces depending on vehicle size, so every few panels a fresh piece is used.
    I also prefer to use clay bars as opposed to clay mitts or towels as i prefer the feel and feedback from a clay bar. Also, towels and mitts are designed to be reused, so unless being very careful with after clay washing, there may be still contaminants on the clay that could inflict the paintwork.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    Yes there will be an element of potentially micro scratching the surface when claying, and there is also the marring effect of the clay which can occur. However, if the pre steps to claying are done well, there isnt too much heavy contamination to lift.

    A throughout wash, a good de-tar checking the surface by running your hand over it to ensure its totally free of tar and then a fallout remover will have lifted the majority of contamination that will risk damaging the paintwork. What is inflicted will be minimal and a wax or sealant would mask it. Yes its there, yes it will compound the issue each time you clay, but even after 3 or 4 claying sessions, what will need resolving would be removed in a very quick pass with a finishing pad and polish.

    For a daily driver, not many have the time to polish their paintwork each time they want to apply a fresh coat of wax. Steps pre-claying are key!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,507 ✭✭✭clubberlang12


    Suppose there is 2 ways of looking at it.........from a customer's vehicle perspective(as i do) and from a hobbyist/weekend warrior working on his own vehicle.

    If it's your own car, then obviously you are aware of the potential risks. One also has to remember the paint that is being worked on. While the, if any, marring or inflictions may not be as noticeable or severe on harder clearcoat i'd be extremely wary of soft to very soft clear coat. A poor wash can inflict such paintworks.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,479 ✭✭✭DaveyDave


    Car is covered in tiny sticky leaves all over, only bloody washed the car! Might give it a a quick wash tomorrow...


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 418 ✭✭Lekrub


    Here for advice on polishing pads. It will be my first time using a Da polisher.

    So my main plan is:
    > Wash to strip existing sealant (g3 body prep)
    > Clay bar (dish soap + g3 body prep)

    > Compound (Meguires Ultimate)
    > Polish (Meguires)
    > Wax ( Meguires Ultimate Paste Wax)

    Can I get some advice on what pads to use for the compound and polishing? Its a 2006 c black class.

    I have read chemical guys and lake country pads are popular. Any thoughts on what colour combos or alternatives etc? Much appreciated.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,563 ✭✭✭Duff


    Any advice on the best/longest lasting tyre shine/slick, lads?

    So far I've tried Wonder Wheels (crap) and some Simoniz stuff (crapper).

    Cheers.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 418 ✭✭Lekrub


    Duff wrote: »
    Any advice on the best/longest lasting tyre shine/slick, lads?

    So far I've tried Wonder Wheels (crap) and some Simoniz stuff (crapper).

    Cheers.

    I find this stuff really good if you like the dark wet look.

    Meguiars Endurance High Gloss Tyre Protection

    538645?w=637&h=403


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,563 ✭✭✭Duff


    That's exactly what I'm after. Cheer!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 51,538 ✭✭✭✭bazz26


    The one downside with tyre dressing is that the rims get dirty very quickly from the try dressing residue. I've used a good few different brands including the Meguires above and they all end up doing the same in my experience. I just don't bother anymore.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 24,633 ✭✭✭✭punisher5112


    Put it on and let dry in a little then wipe off with new cloth.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,479 ✭✭✭DaveyDave


    Don't know where to post this. What's the damage here? Hoovering the car and the door blew into the pillar about 6 inches away...

    Smack bang in the middle of the driver door.

    abAJegu.jpg


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 51,538 ✭✭✭✭bazz26


    Looks to me like you could be looking at a full repainting of the door there but I'm no expert.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 330 ✭✭Badger2009


    Far from an expert but I think to get it perfect it looks like a full respray.

    If it was me I would do DIY repair with some touch up, light sanding and a polish. You could probably minimise it to the point that it wouldn't be noticeable from a couple of yards away which I would be happy enough with. Never get it perfect that way though.

    Whatever you do I would touch in the bare metal bits anyway just to protect it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,479 ✭✭✭DaveyDave


    Yeah I was thinking maybe a good touch up would help, a full respray seems a lot for what is such a tiny spot :/


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 24,633 ✭✭✭✭punisher5112


    DaveyDave wrote: »
    Yeah I was thinking maybe a good touch up would help, a full respray seems a lot for what is such a tiny spot :/

    But sure top coat and under is gone...

    You know the likes of dent pro etc do fix the likes of those.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,512 ✭✭✭arleitiss


    Got car all covered in bird **** (I dont even park under trees so idk), planning to wash it this Friday.
    Got pressure washer at home, so gonna foam up car then scrub with sponge then wash off.

    I want to apply wax too but not sure which one (there seems to be million brands out there), any suggestions? (Something that I can physically go in Dublin and buy)?

    Do you wait for car to dry or use fiber towel to dry it out?
    Lidl is selling orbital buffer for 24.99 currently, has anyone used it? Would it produce better results than manually applying wax?
    What do you do for windows? Can you apply wax to windows too so water just slides right off or is there specific product you can suggest?
    What about tyres? I see some people drive cars for months and tires stay solid black and shiny.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 330 ✭✭Badger2009


    I think detailing shed have a physical shop near blanchardstown. Not sure on opening hrs etc. They will have everything you need.

    I would get a wash mitt rather than using a sponge as the sponge will probably scratch your paint.

    I wouldn't bother with polisher if you're just planning on using it to a apply wax. A foam applicator and micro fibre towel to buff it off will do the job.

    In terms of wax it depends on what you want. Easy application and good gloss maybe chemical guys butter wet wax. Very easy to apply and shines well but only lasts a few weeks. A liquid wax is easier to apply than a paste (neither are that difficult). I use collinite just because I like it.

    You should dry the car to prevent water spots. A good MF towel is what you need.

    I would just clean the tyres well but if you want a shine get a dressing.

    As said, Detailing Shed will have everything you need and I'm sure they will advise you too.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 24,633 ✭✭✭✭punisher5112


    Don't scrub or use a sponge


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 24,633 ✭✭✭✭punisher5112


    Collinite845 is the business and then get another for glass, if you have black plastics and want to bring back to life or just have looking wet then ceramic is the way to go. Dlux


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,920 ✭✭✭✭MetzgerMeister


    If you want all the performance of a wax and greater longevity but only a quarter of the effort, Gtechniq C2V3 is the product for you.

    It can be applied to paintwork, glass and wheels, produces a superb shine and hydrophobic properties.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,198 ✭✭✭padyjoe


    One green horn question about powerwashing: the shortest distance between the car and tap about 8 meters, so if I want run it off the mains, can I attach any length of hose? What about a waterbutt? It's further away, 200l one, I suppose it's good for washing the backyard only.


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