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Replacing a Mira Elite ST Shower

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  • 08-09-2017 1:08pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 811 ✭✭✭


    My Mira Elite ST has gone wallop and I'm looking to replace.

    The two I'm looking at with the same footprint are the Mira Elite QT and the Triton T900PI. I rang my local shower man and he has quoted me €400 to supply and fit the Mira Elite QT. Upon doing my research its seems they are not as robust as I had hoped. Is this price reasonable?

    I am now considering going with the Triton T900PI. Is this a similar shower with regards to output etc? Would I need to change the plumbing/electrical side of things and would it ultimately cost me more?

    I've also seen the thread on the silent Triton shower but I'm assuming this would be a non runner as the footprint is different and the wall where the shower is tiled already. Maybe there is another way around this.

    Any advice would be most welcome.


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Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 16,949 ✭✭✭✭Sleeper12


    largepants wrote:
    I've also seen the thread on the silent Triton shower but I'm assuming this would be a non runner as the footprint is different and the wall where the shower is tiled already. Maybe there is another way around this.


    The Mira Elite Qt is the most problematic shower I've ever encountered.

    The triton t900pi is a better shower and' is the same footprint.

    If you use a dedicated shower repair company they will arrive at your door with the triton t900pi and the triton t90sr. The triton t90sr being lightyears ahead of any other shower. It usually depends on if your shower is properly tiled behind. Fingers crossed that the t90sr fist in.

    Bottom line is you don't want the mira elite Qt.


  • Registered Users Posts: 811 ✭✭✭largepants


    Sleeper12 wrote: »
    The Mira Elite Qt is the most problematic shower I've ever encountered.

    The triton t900pi is a better shower and' is the same footprint.

    If you use a dedicated shower repair company they will arrive at your door with the triton t900pi and the triton t90sr. The triton t90sr being lightyears ahead of any other shower. It usually depends on if your shower is properly tiled behind. Fingers crossed that the t90sr fist in.

    Bottom line is you don't want the mira elite Qt.

    Was hoping you'd be the poster to answer my queries.

    I really appreciate you taking the time to respond. My wife would prefer the silent shower so I'll ask the showerman to bring both the tritons. I'm in Cork otherwise I'd ask you to do it.

    Thanks again.


  • Registered Users Posts: 16,949 ✭✭✭✭Sleeper12


    largepants wrote:
    I really appreciate you taking the time to respond. My wife would prefer the silent shower so I'll ask the showerman to bring both the tritons. I'm in Cork otherwise I'd ask you to do it.


    It all depends on how good a tiling job was done originally.
    If it is fully tiled behind & it's a studded partition there's no reason why the t90sr won't work.
    I've met a good shower guy from Cork on a plumbing Facebook group. If you can get his number I'll send it via pm. I always recommend getting a firm price upfront regardless of who you use


  • Registered Users Posts: 811 ✭✭✭largepants


    Sleeper12 wrote: »
    It all depends on how good a tiling job was done originally.
    If it is fully tiled behind & it's a studded partition there's no reason why the t90sr won't work.
    I've met a good shower guy from Cork on a plumbing Facebook group. If you can get his number I'll send it via pm. I always recommend getting a firm price upfront regardless of who you use

    Will check the tiling job later. However it is a block wall behind the shower so that might make it that much more difficult.

    Thanks again.


  • Registered Users Posts: 16,949 ✭✭✭✭Sleeper12


    Pm sent


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,957 ✭✭✭tinofapples


    Hi,
    Looking at spare room en-suite shower solution, I've put it on the long finger for a long time now. Can anyone tell from the video what might be the issue here:



    The water pressure seem to be fine until I turn up the heat :(


  • Registered Users Posts: 16,949 ✭✭✭✭Sleeper12


    The water pressure seem to be fine until I turn up the heat


    Hard to say without being there but the pump might be faulty but it looks more like it's getting starved of water.

    When you reduce the flow the demand for water drops and the shower seems to work OK. Increase the flow and it does not look like its getting enough water. It is always a good idea to check the filter too


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,957 ✭✭✭tinofapples


    Sleeper12 wrote: »
    Hard to say without being there but the pump might be faulty but it looks more like it's getting starved of water.

    When you reduce the flow the demand for water drops and the shower seems to work OK. Increase the flow and it does not look like its getting enough water. It is always a good idea to check the filter too

    You seem to know a bit bout showers, would this one be a suitable replacement for mine if it has to go :

    https://www.ie.screwfix.com/mira-go-electric-shower-white-chrome-8-5kw.html

    Mine is tank fed (Gravity fed)


  • Registered Users Posts: 16,949 ✭✭✭✭Sleeper12


    Mine is tank fed (Gravity fed)

    For tank fed you need a mira elite qt, triton t900pi or triton t90sr. Almost anything else on the market is mains fed. Heatmerchants are probably the cheapest for the mira elite qt


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,273 ✭✭✭UsedToWait


    Sorry to hijack, but could I ask Sleeper12 for some advice?

    The shower in my place is a Gainsborough sv800

    gainsborough_sv800.jpg

    It's tiled behind, and there is approx 6" room to the right of the current position.

    I'm just wondering if the Triton T90sr would be an 'easy' swap for this shower, or would there be another model you could recommend?


    Edit: looks like I've shown my ignorance - seems the T90sr is tank fed, while my current one is mains fed.
    With that in mind, would still appreciate a recommendation of a decent quality 'straight swap' (without breaking the bank if possible!)


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  • Registered Users Posts: 16,949 ✭✭✭✭Sleeper12


    I throw this out there every now & then just so everyone knows all the facts. It's illegal for a homeowner to install, replace or repair an electric shower. You should have a 40amp RCBO as a fuse at the fusebox. There is a test button on this & you should test it every 3 months. If it doesn't trip with the test button it wont trip when you are being electrocuted in the shower. It's a very important safety device. If you don't have one then get one.

    On your setup you'd need to change from mains to tank fed to use the T90sr. If your shower is downstairs then it's most likely too difficult to do. If it's upstairs & they took the mains feed from the attic then that part would be simple enough to swap over.

    The shower itself may be difficult to do. Bottom line is the pipe & cable need to move another 6 or 7 inches. Simple enough in a studded wall but time consuming in a concrete wall. You need to be sure that the cable is long enough to move


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,273 ✭✭✭UsedToWait


    Sleeper12 wrote: »
    I throw this out there every now & then just so everyone knows all the facts. It's illegal for a homeowner to install, replace or repair an electric shower. You should have a 40amp RCBO as a fuse at the fusebox. There is a test button on this & you should test it every 3 months. If it doesn't trip with the test button it wont trip when you are being electrocuted in the shower. It's a very important safety device. If you don't have one then get one.

    On your setup you'd need to change from mains to tank fed to use the T90sr. If your shower is downstairs then it's most likely too difficult to do. If it's upstairs & they took the mains feed from the attic then that part would be simple enough to swap over.

    The shower itself may be difficult to do. Bottom line is the pipe & cable need to move another 6 or 7 inches. Simple enough in a studded wall but time consuming in a concrete wall. You need to be sure that the cable is long enough to move

    Many thanks, and the work would be carried out professionally.
    I checked, and the 40 amp RCBO is in place, and working - wasn't aware of need for regular checks, but will keep in mind.

    I'm in rented accommodation, and the landlord would likely want to replace with the cheapest model again.
    I was just wondering if you could recommend a 'like for like' swap on the Gainsborough I posted above, so mains fed, so that I could try and source a decent replacement for when the current shower, which I fear is on its last legs (about 5 years old and not heating as well as it was) dies.

    The intention would be for me to purchase and have the landlord fit it, but I'd like to be sure to get one which will require a minimum of time / disruption to install..


  • Registered Users Posts: 33,178 ✭✭✭✭NIMAN


    Sleeper12 wrote: »
    You should have a 40amp RCBO as a fuse at the fusebox. There is a test button on this & you should test it every 3 months. If it doesn't trip with the test button it wont trip when you are being electrocuted in the shower. It's a very important safety device. If you don't have one then get one.

    Great advice, going to check that tonight when I get home.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,957 ✭✭✭tinofapples


    Sleeper12 wrote: »
    For tank fed you need a mira elite qt, triton t900pi or triton t90sr. Almost anything else on the market is mains fed. Heatmerchants are probably the cheapest for the mira elite qt

    Thanks again, Jeez I'm really limited when it comes to replacing :eek: Is there one of the above mentioned better than the other ?


  • Registered Users Posts: 16,949 ✭✭✭✭Sleeper12


    UsedToWait wrote:
    The intention would be for me to purchase and have the landlord fit it, but I'd like to be sure to get one which will require a minimum of time / disruption to install..

    A triton t80z will replace that easily. Don't buy anything over 9kw unless you are sure that you have 10mm cable. Most only have 6mm


  • Registered Users Posts: 16,949 ✭✭✭✭Sleeper12


    Thanks again, Jeez I'm really limited when it comes to replacing :eek: Is there one of the above mentioned better than the other ?

    Triton T90SR wins hands down


  • Registered Users Posts: 33,178 ✭✭✭✭NIMAN


    Sleeper12 wrote: »
    Triton T90SR wins hands down

    I'm tempted by the T90SR as I often shower at 6am and its noisy with my current T90si.

    I think I have asked before, but would that be a straight swap out? Its mounted on a tiled, stud wall in upstairs ensuite.


  • Registered Users Posts: 16,949 ✭✭✭✭Sleeper12


    NIMAN wrote: »
    I'm tempted by the T90SR as I often shower at 6am and its noisy with my current T90si.

    I think I have asked before, but would that be a straight swap out? Its mounted on a tiled, stud wall in upstairs ensuite.


    Straight swap. New holes need to be drilled in the tiles to pin it to the wall


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,273 ✭✭✭UsedToWait


    Sleeper12 wrote: »
    A triton t80z will replace that easily. Don't buy anything over 9kw unless you are sure that you have 10mm cable. Most only have 6mm

    Many thanks once again.

    If it's not too much trouble, one final question.
    Is there any reason why I couldn't source in the UK?

    (Just in case their plumbing sizes are different or anything)

    Apologies for my cluelessness!


  • Registered Users Posts: 16,949 ✭✭✭✭Sleeper12


    UsedToWait wrote:
    If it's not too much trouble, one final question. Is there any reason why I couldn't source in the UK?


    Two fold answer here

    1. Triton Ireland only offer 2 years parts and labour warranty on showers bought in Ireland. Screwfix, although having an Irish website sell UK showers so even with a receipt in euro from them you won't have a warranty. 2. If it isn't a model sold here then no one will be able to repair it as triton Ireland won't have parts. Same goes for some models sold in B&Q, Argos, Homebase etc.

    If you buy a UK shower the power ratings are different as they are 240v and we are 230v. A 9.8kw shower rated at 240v is the exact same as a 9kw rated at 230v.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 3,764 ✭✭✭Dakota Dan


    Hi,
    Looking at spare room en-suite shower solution, I've put it on the long finger for a long time now. Can anyone tell from the video what might be the issue here:



    The water pressure seem to be fine until I turn up the heat :(
    I've the very same tiles in my bathroom however we are sick of looking at them now. It sounds as if the motor is failing. I had an older one of these showers and was able to extend its life by 3 years by getting parts from discarded same brand of showers.


  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    Maybe a stupid question but do you get an electrician or a plumber to replace an electric shower? My Mira Elite st doesn't sound great and it has been burning out the switch.


  • Registered Users Posts: 16,949 ✭✭✭✭Sleeper12


    An Electrician is the best way forward though many don't like to work with water at all. Most plumbers will replace the shower but mightn't test the electrical end of things. Believe it or not I've seen electrician & plumber replace a shower together.
    My Mira Elite st doesn't sound great and it has been burning out the switch.

    The shower isn't burning out the switch. Switches will burn out but if you are going through a lot of them I'd suspect that they are very cheap switches or they aren't being installed correctly


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,957 ✭✭✭tinofapples


    I emailed Mira Customer Service with my symptoms, they forwarded my query to a third party who i guess cover faults for them, they quoted me 80 quid for a call-out plus the cost of parts.Mentioned it could be a flow valve,pump or blockage in filter. I've already taken the filter out and cleaned it. At the mentioned prices I think I'm as well off replacing the shower with a new one when I get a chance.


  • Registered Users Posts: 16,949 ✭✭✭✭Sleeper12


    Shower doctors are usually 95 for a call out so I'm wondering if it's 80 plus vat or something

    Flow valve is another 55 on top of the 80. 135 or so in total. If your shower is 6 years or less it would be worth spending this. Anything over 6 years I'd be looking at replacing it with the triton t90sr. The new mira elite qt is problematic, a lemon imo.

    Replacement showers in Dublin are around 325 for the mira elite qt & 335 for the triton t90sr supplied & fitted. Just to give you an idea of weather to repair or replace.

    There's a sticker at the bottom of the shower. It has the manufacturer date. Week number and year. Your shower was most likely installed 3 to 6 months after this date. Again this will give you an idea of the age


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,957 ✭✭✭tinofapples


    Thanks again, yeah I was thinking it could quickly reach 150+ and yes the shower is over 6 yrs old, the part that's killing me is it didn't get all that much use. It was in a guest room en-suite. I think I'll follow your advice on the Triton it shouldn't be a problem swapping out with regards to entry points.

    Thanks again for your words of wisdom.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,645 ✭✭✭Webbs


    Am I right in thinking that there is no cheap alternative to replacing a Mira ST?

    Ours runs and we get a flow for a little while but no heat and then its just stops.

    This is a shower that is used maybe half a dozen times a year and I want the cheapest solution for a replacement. Getting someone out to look at it just doesnt seem like a good idea as more than likely will need replacing anyway.


  • Registered Users Posts: 16,949 ✭✭✭✭Sleeper12


    Webbs wrote: »
    Am I right in thinking that there is no cheap alternative to replacing a Mira ST?

    Ours runs and we get a flow for a little while but no heat and then its just stops.

    This is a shower that is used maybe half a dozen times a year and I want the cheapest solution for a replacement. Getting someone out to look at it just doesnt seem like a good idea as more than likely will need replacing anyway.


    What stops?

    The water flow? or the whole shower, pump and all stops?

    When you do have flow & its cold does the low flow light come on?


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,645 ✭✭✭Webbs


    Sleeper12 wrote: »
    What stops?

    The water flow? or the whole shower, pump and all stops?

    When you do have flow & its cold does the low flow light come on?

    Sorry had been ages since we had turned that shower on so checked again.

    When turned on water flows with loud noise from assuming the pump but low flow light is on. Noise carries on for a couple of minutes then stops but water keeps going. All the time the water flow is low and there is no heat to the water


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  • Registered Users Posts: 16,949 ✭✭✭✭Sleeper12


    Webbs wrote: »
    Sorry had been ages since we had turned that shower on so checked again.

    When turned on water flows with loud noise from assuming the pump but low flow light is on. Noise carries on for a couple of minutes then stops but water keeps going. All the time the water flow is low and there is no heat to the water


    It's a dead motor or the brushes in the motor


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