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Reliable alternative to BMW

  • 18-11-2017 05:06PM
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,123 ✭✭✭


    After buy a 2008 BMW 2.0 N47 Diesel from a BMW dealer I can glady say it will be the last given my resent experience.

    After a timing chain, turbo, front shocks, driver's seat and and now a flywheel it has been the worst car I jave ever driven!!

    I am now engaging with my solicitor as they are disputing the fly wheel even though it's obvious there is an issue and will not honour their 2 year amazing warranty they preach about.

    Even worse is because it's now over 100,000km on the clock they say it's to high mileage to get a good trade in and I have been told by BMW that any car over 100,000km is passed it's life???

    So much for a premium brand that's costs twice as much as any similar model and only lasts 100k!!

    Anyway they can have it back as it's a disasters. I did know of the issue but I said I'd give them the benefit of the doubt which turn out to be the wrong choice.

    I will say it performed nicely when it didn't rattle and handles well as it an MSport and the interior is well put together but as for reliability it's terrible. I was told the 2.5 and 3.0 BMW are reliable but will they stand by it should she go bang???

    So I am now looking for a 3 / 5 series M-Sport reliable alternative and preferably Auto.

    Was thinking Merc C & E, Volvo S80, Lexus IS or even a Kia Optima.

    Not sure how the newer models fair with reliability or after service. I know Merc had some electronic and quality issues


«13

Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,109 ✭✭✭corglass


    New Kia Optima look amazing. Try to get a test drive in one, the interior looks great too


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,048 ✭✭✭ABC101


    Sorry to hear that.

    I’m currently driving a Subaru diesel, not much performance but has been reliable so far. Subaru spare parts can be expensive, but parts don’t seem to fail much either.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,048 ✭✭✭ABC101


    Sorry to hear that.

    I’m currently driving a Subaru diesel, not much performance but has been reliable so far. Subaru spare parts can be expensive, but parts don’t seem to fail much either.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,123 ✭✭✭KwackerJack


    corglass wrote: »
    New Kia Optima look amazing. Try to get a test drive in one, the interior looks great too

    I do love the interior and they do look great on the outside. Not sure how comprehensive the 7 year warranty is?

    ABC101 wrote: »
    Sorry to hear that.

    I’m currently driving a Subaru diesel, not much performance but has been reliable so far. Subaru spare parts can be expensive, but parts don’t seem to fail much either.

    The current car is 150hp so it's not crazy but is perfect for those little sprints.

    I do like the Subaru outback, not sure if they are diesel?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,525 ✭✭✭JohnBoy26


    Subaru diesel are just as bad if not worse than bmw when it comes to the reliability.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,048 ✭✭✭ABC101


    JohnBoy26 wrote: »
    Subaru diesel are just as bad if not worse than bmw when it comes to the reliability.

    That’s interesting, Is that based on your own experience or are you in the trade etc?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,048 ✭✭✭ABC101


    I do love the interior and they do look great on the outside. Not sure how comprehensive the 7 year warranty is?




    The current car is 150hp so it's not crazy but is perfect for those little sprints.

    I do like the Subaru outback, not sure if they are diesel?

    The Outback’s are mostly diesel, but a 2.5 lt petrol can be ordered, but at 1200 euro / road tax they are very rare.

    I’m getting 51mpg all in, 80K km on the clock and no engine issues so far. But I’m mostly motorway driving which most diesels love. Estates are very handy etc, but performance wise it’s not a performance car, 9.5-10 seconds etc


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,620 ✭✭✭Banterbus28


    Skoda Octavia vRS can do no wrong. AWD and diesel. No sacrifice in performance.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,525 ✭✭✭JohnBoy26


    ABC101 wrote: »
    That’s interesting, Is that based on your own experience or are you in the trade etc?

    They are well know for their crankshaft failures.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 28,501 ✭✭✭✭drunkmonkey


    530d and don’t buy it from BMW there way to expensive from them. Low mileage with full service history.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,048 ✭✭✭ABC101


    JohnBoy26 wrote: »
    They are well know for their crankshaft failures.

    Yes there was a issue on the first generation diesels, however the compression ratio was slightly reduced on the second generation and third generation.

    I was of the impression that crank failures was down to other issues to do with blocked lubrication in the sump.

    But the boxer diesel has been out now for almost 10 years, so I would have expected the issue to be resolved / delt with etc.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,059 ✭✭✭Tuco88


    I like the subrau, almost got one. Only a few lads turned me off the boxer diesel shame. Still they also told me the 1.6 TDCI was not great... from new over 200km never had an issue, serviced on the button all the time tho.

    How about an Audi A4 or A5. I like the Honda Accord that 2.2 also rattles feathers here too tho.

    Must it be Diesel?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,620 ✭✭✭Banterbus28


    With the Octavia vRS you are getting an Audi A4 in a different chassis...


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,048 ✭✭✭ABC101


    Tuco88 wrote: »
    I like the subrau, almost got one. Only a few lads turned me off the boxer diesel shame. Still they also told me the 1.6 TDCI was not great... from new over 200km never had an issue, serviced on the button all the time tho.

    How about an Audi A4 or A5. I like the Honda Accord that 2.2 also rattles feathers here too tho.

    Must it be Diesel?

    Good point, the modern petrols are getting better, 40mpg or more etc / depending on type / model etc


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,048 ✭✭✭ABC101


    What sort of mileage / commute are you doing? The Honda Civic now has a 180bhp 1.5lt petrol! Should be some fun revving the balls off it!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,525 ✭✭✭JohnBoy26


    ABC101 wrote: »
    Yes there was a issue on the first generation diesels, however the compression ratio was slightly reduced on the second generation and third generation.

    I was of the impression that crank failures was down to other issues to do with blocked lubrication in the sump.

    But the boxer diesel has been out now for almost 10 years, so I would have expected the issue to be resolved / delt with etc.
    Well you were telling posters to avoid subaru diesels last year and now you are recommending them?
    https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=99628843&postcount=36
    ABC101 wrote: »
    Very sorry to hear about your issues OP.

    Subaru make great cars, with great petrol engines.... but the diesels are best to be avoided. I would suggest it may be better to trade your car in for something else... perhaps a Honda or Skoda, or a petrol Scooby.?

    Sometimes you might be better to just cut your losses rather than get into a legal argument. It might suit the garage too.... if they are so insistent that there is no issue with restarting the car, then they should have no trouble with taking it as a trade in against a different brand.

    I found this site here, describing different Subaru engines which I thought was most informative..

    http://www.subaru.com.au/subaru-dna/subaru-engine-range

    Specifically mentions the features of each engine, with the diesel not being suitable for short runs.

    Most interestingly.... the new petrol Engine....FB4... 2 litre, non turbo long stroke is giving good economy... .around 42 MPG (which in real world is about 37?). So you would probably be much better off staying with a petrol engine.

    With regard to the Crankshaft failures.... seems to be a common enough occurrence. It would appear Subaru are blaming lube oil starvation to the crank (caused by dirty fuel, sludgeing up the sump and starving the L.O. pump. However... if L.O. is not supplied to the engine, all sorts of problems occur, notably white metal bearing failures, scored cylinder liners, broken piston rings, camshaft damage etc. Any running surface will be damaged.

    But on checking the www / Your tube videos / various facebook pages of broken crankshafts, the crankshaft is breaking on a non running surface i.e. where two crankwebs meet.

    I do find this puzzling... why are Subaru blaming poor L.O. supply, when the part that is breaking... is not designed to be lubricated. i.e. it is a non running part of the crankshaft, that is to say crankwebs do not have running surfaces. Crankpins, and bearing journal surfaces require L.O. but not crankwebs.

    I'd buy a Subaru no probs.... but not diesel. Better off with a Dacia Duster or something.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,048 ✭✭✭ABC101


    JohnBoy26 wrote: »
    Well you were telling posters to avoid subaru diesels last year and now you are recommending them?
    https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=99628843&postcount=36

    John,

    Thanks for that, yes like yourself I did have reservations about the diesel boxer engines, and in all my posts I have acknowlodged the crank issue.

    But given the economics of diesel vrs petrol I had to lookl at diesel.

    In addition I looked carefully into the crank issue and got advice from people I trust in the trade etc. it was on this basis I decided to go diesel.

    With the type of driving I do, long motorway commutes it suits the Diesel engine well. Get it up to speed and it just purrs along like a kitten.

    Most engines if driven in conditions which are unsuitable for the engine will give trouble. Diesels are no different with blocked dpf filters if driven on short commutes etc. the OP has had issues with his BMW remember!!

    If the crank fails I’ve only financially hurt myself, but given my type of driving I don’t anticipate any trouble, there are quiet a few high mileage boxer diesels about, on their original crank too.

    But petrol engines are getting better for mpg, so the OP may be better going that route.

    If you have doubts yourself, talk to somebody in the Subaru trade, don’t just take my word for it!!

    But if my crank fails !!!!! I’ll let you know!!! Hahahaha!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,123 ✭✭✭KwackerJack


    Had a 2.5 A4 and seemed fine apart from a slight flutter from the Auto box when gearing down....known issue apparently.

    VRS I do like but if it's DSG I have heard nightmare stories but have no first hand experience.

    No, does not have to be diesel. The 318 was bougt when I was doing 400 miles a week, now I'm lucky if I do 400 a month and I really prefer petrol

    Previous cars were 2.7 Porsche Boxster and a Lexus IS250

    I would love another Boxster but need a family wagon also......if I can get a family Saloon to keep the GF happy maybe I could sneak a Boxster in haha


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 2,284 ✭✭✭Nate--IRL--


    ABC101 wrote: »
    What sort of mileage / commute are you doing? The Honda Civic now has a 180bhp 1.5lt petrol! Should be some fun revving the balls off it!

    It is :)

    Nate


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,620 ✭✭✭Banterbus28


    Unlike Audi the Octavia vRS comes AWD 2 Lt CDTI in manual


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,531 ✭✭✭Leonard Hofstadter


    After buy a 2008 BMW 2.0 N47 Diesel from a BMW dealer I can glady say it will be the last given my resent experience.

    After a timing chain, turbo, front shocks, driver's seat and and now a flywheel it has been the worst car I jave ever driven!!

    I am now engaging with my solicitor as they are disputing the fly wheel even though it's obvious there is an issue and will not honour their 2 year amazing warranty they preach about.

    Even worse is because it's now over 100,000km on the clock they say it's to high mileage to get a good trade in and I have been told by BMW that any car over 100,000km is passed it's life???

    So much for a premium brand that's costs twice as much as any similar model and only lasts 100k!!

    Anyway they can have it back as it's a disasters. I did know of the issue but I said I'd give them the benefit of the doubt which turn out to be the wrong choice.

    I will say it performed nicely when it didn't rattle and handles well as it an MSport and the interior is well put together but as for reliability it's terrible. I was told the 2.5 and 3.0 BMW are reliable but will they stand by it should she go bang???

    So I am now looking for a 3 / 5 series M-Sport reliable alternative and preferably Auto.

    Was thinking Merc C & E, Volvo S80, Lexus IS or even a Kia Optima.

    Not sure how the newer models fair with reliability or after service. I know Merc had some electronic and quality issues

    Firstly, I'm sorry to hear about all the issues you've had. I know from personal experience just how annoying and frustrating BMW ownership can be no matter how well you look after them but it seems like you've been very unlucky nonetheless.

    No-one will stand over a flywheel as they'll argue it could be down to driving style (a lot of town driving will put much more pressure on it than someone who mostly drives on motorways).

    If it's been under warranty at least you shouldn't have had to pay for any of these problems though?

    Harsh I know (especially with all the other issues you've had) but I feel I should be honest.

    Unfortunately you've got a very early N47 and they are the most prone to the timing chain problem. They are also the most expensive to fix as they changed some of the parts in later cars (which don't need to be replaced when the chain goes whereas they do in your car).

    Have you (and the previous owner) been following the OBC guidelines for servicing it?

    Too late I know now but I firmly believe that following BMW's official guidelines is a mistake - all cars should have their oil changed at least every year or 15,000 km (certainly no more than 20,000 km) no matter what the service indicator says. It might not have stopped you from having the timing chain problem but it certainly could have helped prevent it from happening.

    Of the alternatives you've mentioned, well the Lexus is well known for having problems with the head gasket, I don't know much about the others but at one point Mercedes OM651 diesels (the 2143 cc diesel engine found in various 200/220/250 CDI models since about 2009 and still in use today) had a reputation for injector problems.

    I don't know about the Volvo, it depends on the year, if it's the current generation car well they're less than two years old so far too early to determine if there will be any problems, the previous generation car had a mix of Ford Mondeo underpinnings and Volvo or PSA engines. The PSA engine would have a reputation for being very sensitive to being serviced bang on time and using the correct oil - it will go expensively wrong if it doesn't have a full service history and has used the wrong oil. The Volvo engines are fine (from what I know), though.

    Back to BMW, well the 3.0 diesel is the same design engine as the 2.0 in yours and it too can suffer from the timing chain problem however it doesn't seem to be anywhere near as prone - this is because it's a six cylinder engine so is much smoother running and there's far less vibrations, almost all of them are automatics (and for some reason autos suffer less than manuals) and they're also much more likely to have been bought by an enthusiast (much more expensive to buy new than one of the 2.0s so most people won't bother) so there is a much greater chance that they'll have been looked after properly.

    If you stick to a 320d/520d bear in mind that cars built after the middle of 2014 onwards have the new B47 engine that so far doesn't seem to have any reliability problems whatsoever.

    No matter what car you go for I would completely ignore the official guidelines by the manufacturer on servicing and change the oil and filter at least every 15,000-20,000 km or once a year - it might not stop any major problems from happening, but it will certainly help reduce the chances of a timing chain or a turbo from failing.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,123 ✭✭✭KwackerJack


    As the car is under warranty it has been serviced and checked as per BMW requirements.

    I do like the new Civic and actually forgot about them....180hp sounds fun 😎

    My work commute is 5 miles in traffic and is 30 mins on average. I am very smooth with the gears as I generically just cruise along. If I am on the motorway it's up to 120 and I sit there untili reach my destination.

    Obviously in the Porsche I drove her hard sometimes as they like to be driven hard, however the BMW is just a diesel saloon and I drive it accordingly


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,123 ✭✭✭KwackerJack


    Firstly, I'm sorry to hear about all the issues you've had. I know from personal experience just how annoying and frustrating BMW ownership can be no matter how well you look after them but it seems like you've been very unlucky nonetheless.

    No-one will stand over a flywheel as they'll argue it could be down to driving style (a lot of town driving will put much more pressure on it than someone who mostly drives on motorways).

    If it's been under warranty at least you shouldn't have had to pay for any of these problems though?

    Harsh I know (especially with all the other issues you've had) but I feel I should be honest.

    Unfortunately you've got a very early N47 and they are the most prone to the timing chain problem. They are also the most expensive to fix as they changed some of the parts in later cars (which don't need to be replaced when the chain goes whereas they do in your car).

    Have you (and the previous owner) been following the OBC guidelines for servicing it?

    Too late I know now but I firmly believe that following BMW's official guidelines is a mistake - all cars should have their oil changed at least every year or 15,000 km (certainly no more than 20,000 km) no matter what the service indicator says. It might not have stopped you from having the timing chain problem but it certainly could have helped prevent it from happening.

    Of the alternatives you've mentioned, well the Lexus is well known for having problems with the head gasket, I don't know much about the others but at one point Mercedes OM651 diesels (the 2143 cc diesel engine found in various 200/220/250 CDI models since about 2009 and still in use today) had a reputation for injector problems.

    I don't know about the Volvo, it depends on the year, if it's the current generation car well they're less than two years old so far too early to determine if there will be any problems, the previous generation car had a mix of Ford Mondeo underpinnings and Volvo or PSA engines. The PSA engine would have a reputation for being very sensitive to being serviced bang on time and using the correct oil - it will go expensively wrong if it doesn't have a full service history and has used the wrong oil. The Volvo engines are fine (from what I know), though.

    Back to BMW, well the 3.0 diesel is the same design engine as the 2.0 in yours and it too can suffer from the timing chain problem however it doesn't seem to be anywhere near as prone - this is because it's a six cylinder engine so is much smoother running and there's far less vibrations, almost all of them are automatics (and for some reason autos suffer less than manuals) and they're also much more likely to have been bought by an enthusiast (much more expensive to buy new than one of the 2.0s so most people won't bother) so there is a much greater chance that they'll have been looked after properly.

    If you stick to a 320d/520d bear in mind that cars built after the middle of 2014 onwards have the new B47 engine that so far doesn't seem to have any reliability problems whatsoever.

    No matter what car you go for I would completely ignore the official guidelines by the manufacturer on servicing and change the oil and filter at least every 15,000-20,000 km or once a year - it might not stop any major problems from happening, but it will certainly help reduce the chances of a timing chain or a turbo from failing.


    It has been serviced as instructed and checked when in for work which was all under warranty.

    I understand the that a fly wheel can have been worn by dodgy driving but there has been 30,000km put on the car and 90% was motorway for the vast majority of that.

    I did read online that the flywheel is dualmass and there have been reported low mileage failure.....like all Dualmass!!

    My issue is that they know off all these issue yet like myself people are being sold there cars then have major issue's.

    15k for a 08 car which at one stage spent 6 weeks in the garage and had constant problems.....not great for an expensive premium car brand!!

    My dads old Landcruiser Amazon had 450,000 miles when he sold it and it was driving perfect...........they really don't make em like they use to!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 690 ✭✭✭jjmcclure


    After buy a 2008 BMW 2.0 N47 Diesel from a BMW dealer I can glady say it will be the last given my resent experience.

    After a timing chain, turbo, front shocks, driver's seat and and now a flywheel it has been the worst car I jave ever driven!!

    I am now engaging with my solicitor as they are disputing the fly wheel even though it's obvious there is an issue and will not honour their 2 year amazing warranty they preach about.

    Even worse is because it's now over 100,000km on the clock they say it's to high mileage to get a good trade in and I have been told by BMW that any car over 100,000km is passed it's life???

    So much for a premium brand that's costs twice as much as any similar model and only lasts 100k!!

    Anyway they can have it back as it's a disasters. I did know of the issue but I said I'd give them the benefit of the doubt which turn out to be the wrong choice.

    I will say it performed nicely when it didn't rattle and handles well as it an MSport and the interior is well put together but as for reliability it's terrible. I was told the 2.5 and 3.0 BMW are reliable but will they stand by it should she go bang???

    So I am now looking for a 3 / 5 series M-Sport reliable alternative and preferably Auto.

    Was thinking Merc C & E, Volvo S80, Lexus IS or even a Kia Optima.

    Not sure how the newer models fair with reliability or after service. I know Merc had some electronic and quality issues

    Bypass the dealer and call Bmw in farnborough. Ask for customer care and tell them your story.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,048 ✭✭✭ABC101


    Had a 2.5 A4 and seemed fine apart from a slight flutter from the Auto box when gearing down....known issue apparently.

    VRS I do like but if it's DSG I have heard nightmare stories but have no first hand experience.

    No, does not have to be diesel. The 318 was bougt when I was doing 400 miles a week, now I'm lucky if I do 400 a month and I really prefer petrol

    Previous cars were 2.7 Porsche Boxster and a Lexus IS250

    I would love another Boxster but need a family wagon also......if I can get a family Saloon to keep the GF happy maybe I could sneak a Boxster in haha

    At 400 miles / month you could be driving a 6 lt Rolls Royce!!!

    Good position to be in and I would agree Petrol is probably best.

    What sort of budget are you thinking of? Subaru have a petrol Levorg, 1.6lt slightly sporty at 165 bhp and estate too. But looking at around 30k in price unfortunately!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,576 ✭✭✭TBi


    OP you should look at the Lexus IS300h. Very, very underrated car. I got one recently and it's fabulous. Might not have the same efficiency as a diesel at motorway speeds but it's close enough and much better in the city. Very smooth to drive and very reliable. Plus you get a LOAD of kit for your money.

    I'm getting an average of 5.9l/100km (~48MPG) without any special driving techniques.

    Also it looks fab, especially in F-Sport guise but i have the Premier model.
    With the Octavia vRS you are getting an Audi A4 in a different chassis...

    Octavia is same class as A3, not A4.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 938 ✭✭✭kerten


    My work commute is 5 miles in traffic and is 30 mins on average. I am very smooth with the gears as I generically just cruise along. If I am on the motorway it's up to 120 and I sit there untili reach my destination.

    I was doing similar commute in dublin with a Lexus IS250 Auto and it was perfect with its comfort and small turning radius. It was averaging 15 lt/100 km in stop-start traffic but motorway trips were very economical(7-8lt/100 km)

    Agreed with TBI, Lexus IS/GS would be a good choice.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,531 ✭✭✭Leonard Hofstadter


    ABC101 wrote: »
    At 400 miles / month you could be driving a 6 lt Rolls Royce!!!

    Good position to be in and I would agree Petrol is probably best.

    What sort of budget are you thinking of? Subaru have a petrol Levorg, 1.6lt slightly sporty at 165 bhp and estate too. But looking at around 30k in price unfortunately!

    QFT.

    At that mileage OP don't bother with a diesel - try and see if there's any nice petrol versions of the cars you've mentioned (there will definitely be in the UK).

    I do know as has previously been mentioned that a petrol Lexus IS will give no trouble whatsoever, although I haven't been in a Lexus in a long, long time so I don't know if they're nice cars to drive or be driven in (they are based on Toyotas though which probably means they're as dull as ditchwater).


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 51,877 ✭✭✭✭bazz26


    Interesting enough my brother in law has a 171 Optima SW (1 of 3 company 171 Optimas) and has just had a battle with Kia to replace a slipping clutch. Now my BIL has been driving for years and has never burnt out a clutch but Kia were adamant that it was not as a result of a premature failing part. Luckily enough the local Kia dealer who supplied all 3 company cars agreed to replace the clutch as a measure of goodwill in keeping the company happy as they will replace the 3 cars again in 2019.

    On a nearly 10 year old car no warranty will cover the cost of replacing a clutch or flywheel and failing flywheels are not unique to BMWs. Most modern day diesels suffer from this and a flywheel is considered a consumable that has a life expectancy. Similarly turbos, injectors and EGR values all fail on modern diesel cars and the risk is higher as these cars get old.

    Now I'm not making excuses for BMW, they can and do become money pits as they get older but you're in for a shock if you think the likes of Audi, Mercedes, VW are any more reliable as they age.

    If you want a reliable modern diesel then buy a petrol, hybrid or electric car and that goes for any brand.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,576 ✭✭✭TBi


    (they are based on Toyotas though which probably means they're as dull as ditchwater).

    Lexus IS and GS are both rear wheel drive and drive very differently from Toyota's. I've driven the lexus and the Latest Corolla and Avensis. They are different beasts.


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