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Install a bike rack within the next two weeks

  • 06-07-2016 11:17PM
    #1
    bellucio
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 96 ✭✭


    Hi All
    I recently purchased a new bike rack for my camper. Delivery company f**ked up and it was delivered two weeks late. I had somebody organised to install it but due to the late delivery he is unavailable now. And we are heading to France in ten days....:mad::eek:
    I'm in north Cork, does anybody know of somebody in the general area that remove an old and install a new bike rack?
    Fiamma Carry Bike Pro

    Thanks!!


Comments

  • #2
    Mefistofelino
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,384 ✭✭✭Mefistofelino


    Derek Walsh camper repair centre in Kildimo installed a roof rack on my motorhome last year
    http://www.camperrepaircentre.com/

    Cara Motorhomes in Rathkeale install accessories too, though I don't have any direct experience of their work
    http://www.caramotorhomes.ie/


  • #3
    Benbecul97
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 988 ✭✭✭Benbecul97


    If the old rack and the new rack are the same make/model, and drilling new holes is NOT required, then it should be straight forward for someone reasonable at DIY to remove the old rack and install the new rack. Drilling new holes through the back wall of the van is NOT something that should be attempted though if you don't know what you are doing.


  • #4
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 5,326 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Drilling holes is DIYable, especially through tin shells. Use some rubber washers and sealant on the bolts use, a backing plate to spread the load on the nut side to structural members. Don't drill cables, running gear, gas pipes or structural tin/steel.
    Painting/sealing naked metal never hurts.


  • #5
    niloc1951
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,104 ✭✭✭niloc1951


    Sir Liamalot wrote: »
    Drilling holes is DIYable, especially through tin shells. Use some rubber washers and sealant on the bolts use, a backing plate to spread the load on the nut side to structural members. Don't drill cables, running gear, gas pipes or structural tin/steel.
    Painting/sealing naked metal never hurts.

    Nooooooooooooooooo

    The walls of a motorhome are of styrofoam with a thin skin on either side. Strengthened areas are built in where loads are expected to be attached.

    The rear wall of a motorhome will have particular area specially reinforced where a bike rack is supposed to be attached.


  • #6
    Benbecul97
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 988 ✭✭✭Benbecul97


    niloc1951 wrote: »
    Sir Liamalot wrote: »
    Drilling holes is DIYable, especially through tin shells. Use some rubber washers and sealant on the bolts use, a backing plate to spread the load on the nut side to structural members. Don't drill cables, running gear, gas pipes or structural tin/steel.
    Painting/sealing naked metal never hurts.

    Nooooooooooooooooo

    The walls of a motorhome are of styrofoam with a thin skin on either side. Strengthened areas are built in where loads are expected to be attached.

    The rear wall of a motorhome will have particular area specially reinforced where a bike rack is supposed to be attached.

    Exactly right, Niloc1951!

    I wouldn't mess with drilling new holes through the external walls of a motorhome.
    If you have to drill new holes, you must know exactly where the load-bearing area of the external wall is.
    If you don't know where where the load-bearing area of the external wall is, contact the motorhome manufacturer. They will be able to send you on schematic diagrams of the motorhome which will show where the load-bearing area of the external walls are.


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  • #7
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 5,326 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    niloc1951 wrote: »
    Strengthened areas are built in where loads are expected to be attached.

    The rear wall of a motorhome will have particular area specially reinforced where a bike rack is supposed to be attached.

    Isn't that what I said? :confused:
    Sir Liamalot wrote: »
    Use some rubber washers and sealant on the bolts, use a backing plate to spread the load on the nut side to structural members.


    Benbecul97 wrote: »
    If you have to drill new holes, you must know exactly where the load-bearing area of the external wall is.

    You could figure that out with a magnet and some chalk.


  • #8
    Benbecul97
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 988 ✭✭✭Benbecul97


    Sir Liamalot wrote: »
    niloc1951 wrote: »
    Strengthened areas are built in where loads are expected to be attached.

    The rear wall of a motorhome will have particular area specially reinforced where a bike rack is supposed to be attached.

    Isn't that what I said? :confused:
    Sir Liamalot wrote: »
    Use some rubber washers and sealant on the bolts, use a backing plate to spread the load on the nut side to structural members.


    Benbecul97 wrote: »
    If you have to drill new holes, you must know exactly where the load-bearing area of the external wall is.

    You could figure that out with a magnet and some chalk.
    How would a magnet and some chalk detect birch wood?? That is what a previous Swift motorhome used as the material for the load-bearing area of the external wall. Without a schematic diagram I wouldn't be happy to drill holes based on a magnet and some chalk and then hang 50kg from it and drive it on Irish roads!:O


  • #9
    CJhaughey
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,670 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    Personally seeing how lightly built most campers are built I would be inclined to use a steel support that attaches to the chassis at the rear, Towbar mounted is probably best for ease of use at the expense of a slightly longer length overall.
    I have looked at a number of campers where the back wall/window has been damaged by bike racks fitted with no support to the chassis.
    The loading that a rack takes with 2-3 bikes on it bouncing on a road is not insubstantial.


  • #10
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 5,326 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    A magnet can find screws and tacks in wood and hence a bearing on the member or it can seek tin u-channels or structural steel.
    Shouldn't be any problem on a conversion as access to the more wholesome vehicle fabric is easier and can often be drilled from inside out..
    In any case my point is schemetic or no it's a perfectly viable DIY job if approached with common sense.
    Given that the vehicle in question already carried a bike rack probably all that's needed is a diy adapter plate and inner tube.


  • #11
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 5,326 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    4 bikes is a lot of payload on the rear wall.

    Top tip link.


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