Zone control not working, anything I can check myself?

John.G

Correct. It's only a switch but it doesn't close until the valve is practically fully open, at least on my Honeywells. Manual operation simply will not achieve this.

declan b

although in some motorised valves made in the past.the manual lever does not open the valve fully and does not not make the micro switch.this particular valve is for drain ,bleed,refilling pusposes

declan b

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/124058337#Comment_124058337

its possible in your set up that the microswitch grey wire is connected to a switched live instead of a permanent live.

declan b

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/124058337#Comment_124058337

id agree yes. the manual lever in not reaching the micro switch in your honeywell but when motor is activated it does reach the microswitch. in the eph valves the manual lever does make the microswitch

mrcheez

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/124057309#Comment_124057309

Ok so I turned on the broken valve to manual and it turned on the heating.

The other zone is not on.

Not sure that shows anything? I wasnt following other comments.

mrcheez

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/124057039#Comment_124057039

Followed these instructions and recorded valve. No noise when thermostat was turned to 100% from 0 (heard clicks in thermostat)

mrcheez

Ok very weird, it appears to be working now after the 0 to 100% thermostat move

Though no sound came out of valve when I recorded (the other zone is loud as anything)

youtheman

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/124059904#Comment_124059904

At this stage you need to do some electrical fault finding (either yourself or an Electrician). You have to step through the wiring. I would start at the thermostat, turned down. Turn on your controller and see if there is 220v getting to the thermostat (so you are checking the controller and the wire between the controller and the thermostat). Then turn up the thermostat. Check that there is 220 volt getting through the thermostat. Then go to the zone valve and see if there is 220 volts at the zone motor (the brown cable). If there is 220 volts at the motor and it's not operating the valve then you need a new head for your valve (or a motor if you can source one).

mrcheez

So it's interesting...thermostat is up at 30c still, I'll leave it there now that the heating appears to be working.

I only ever use the +1hour buttons on the clock, never have it timed.

I set the clock to 1 hour and it cut off after 5 mins.

Then I set it to 2 hours and its fine.

I think perhaps the clock itself is faulty (perhaps from me pressing the button too much?) but not sure why it took fiddling with the thermostat to get it all to kick in.

Must be a faulty wire somewhere

mrcheez

I've switched on the "Auto" mode for both zones now to see how it goes.

I'm not a fan of Auto mode as if i open the window having a shower all the heat will shoot out (assuming i use it during the active hours) so I usually prefer the +1 hour buttons to top up the heat as needed.

If it's the clock I might change it for a smart clock instead. Perhaps straightforward to wire up if I only have 2 zones.

John.G

I read that the danfoss 2 port when switched to manua does close the microswitch and start the boiler so as suggested above check out the wiring terminals if you can use a multimeter.

S Plan Wiring.gif

mrcheez

Is replacing a time controller fairly straightforward? Just 2 sets of wires for 2 zones and the a wire to power the unit?

I suspect the issue is with the time controller.

youtheman

If you suspect your controller then you just need to check if there is 220 volts here when you call for heat (marked CH and with the red square around it). It sends 220 volts to the terminals marked 1-3 in the Room Stat. If the room temp is below the thermostat set point then that 1/3 contact closes and sends 220 volts to the motor in the CH zone valve (via No5 in the terminal block). The motor then opens the valve and the C/NO contact closes thus allows power (in the grey wire) to be connected to terminal 10 is the terminal block via the orange wire, thus starting the pump and the boiler. Simple really!.

ck that

mrcheez

Worth checking i could pick up a voltage tester on Amazon.

What sort am I looking for?

John.G

You don't need anything exotic, you can pick up one like this in a Halford store or similar for around €10/€12