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Tiling question

  • 14-11-2025 08:51PM
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 369 ✭✭


    Just about to start tiling our small bathroom walls, 2.18 by 1.44 m. I'm putting up 30 x 60 cm tiles. On the long window wall I'll fit about 3.5 tiles per row and on the other one about 2.5. Around 7.75 will fit going up.

    In terms of the layout I have a couple of options. To have the roughly half tile at the end of both walls and whole tiles in the corner of the shower, or else start from the middle on both walls and have about a 3rd in each corner of the long wall and about 10 cm on either side of the short one. I don't like that narrow cut so could possibly have the half tile there instead with two whole ones after.

    I know the risk with the whole tiles in the corner is it is unlikely to be perfectly square so we might get a gap, which is why the general advice is not to do this. However the other more correct way might look a bit messy with cuts at each end.

    I've tried stacking a few up in the corner and the gap doesn't seem too bad, just a few mm, however I know this could get worse as we go up.

    So I'm wondering what folks would advise, given the larger tiles in such a small space.

    Also, the tray is level. Ok to start from there or should I start one row up?

    IMG_20251114_191340.jpg IMG_20251114_191419.jpg

    Finally, muggins here managed to drop a tile on the brand new marble/resin tray and now there's a small chip. (Yes I've had it covered but not at that moment of course). It's very white. What can I use to repair it? Thanks!

    IMG_20251114_191857_edit_12728785945452.jpg


«1

Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 10,144 ✭✭✭✭10-10-20


    What tanking solution is that? Looks smart even without the tiles!

    I think you'll have to live with that scratch, tbh. Any effort to improve it will be met with inverse and non-proportional disimprovement!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,676 ✭✭✭standardg60


    You could think outside the box here and go horizontal within the shower tray and vertical outside. That would cover the discrepancy in the corner and near full tile cuts, whilst adding a bit of feature in a small room.

    Agree with the tanking, looks the biz.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 71 ✭✭JorgeL


    Im thinking of tiling my small bathroom also, did you used to have tiles before ?

    I have to remove tiles and wondering if it’ll be too much of a pain in the hole to take out and have level.


    sorry not answering OP but said why not.



  • Registered Users Posts: 369 ✭✭MarcusMaximus


    Yeah I know what you guys mean about the tanking - almost a shame to cover it up! It’s AquaTank btw.

    Pity about the scratch, I would have thought something could sort it out but perhaps not. 😕

    That’s a novel idea though I’m quite attached to the unified horizontal look. It’s kinda why we chose the bigger tiles. But I will consider it alright. Not sure what you mean by “That would cover the discrepancy in the corner and near full tile cuts” but I’ll see if I can get my head around it. Thanks.

    Yes there were old tiles all over those walls. I wanted to get back to the plasterboard but ended up installing backer board as per @10-10-20’s advice as the wall was a bit of a mess after removing both a bath and the tiles. Taking them off was easy and quite satisfying. It’s dealing with what’s left as a result that might be a pain alright! Why don’t you post some pics? I’m sure you’ll get some great help and advice from the good folks on here. 👍️



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,676 ✭✭✭standardg60


    Re the discrepancy in the corner run a straight edge vertically bottom to top and measure the gap at the top. Cut this amount off your bottom tile and then as go up you'll end up with a full tile. Starting in that corner with full/ half tiles the discrepancy will look less obvious.

    When you get to the shower tray edge you'll be able to see whether going horizontal or vertical works out better with the cuts.

    Do post a pic when done.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 369 ✭✭MarcusMaximus


    Thanks for explaining. I've just run the straight edge up as suggested on both sides of the corner and they don't look too bad, especially the one on the long wall. I might get away with full tiles there given a lot of it is by the window which will have shorter tiles anyway so I can cut them to fit. The short wall is a little more out so I'll probably do what you suggest there.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,780 ✭✭✭monseiur


    If you decide to start in the corner with a full tile and worried that the wall may be a little out of plumb and thus having a bigger or too big a gap in the top rows consider the following : As the tiles are big cut say 15mm off the first tile and a slightly narrower strip off the tile on top (if required) and son on - this will give some tolerance and will not be noticeable due to the size of the tile. I did it recently in my uncle's old house with wonky walls and it worked a treat.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,676 ✭✭✭standardg60


    Imitation is the best form of flattery 🙂



  • Registered Users Posts: 369 ✭✭MarcusMaximus


    Well no harm in a good piece of advice being repeated in a slightly different way. It’s like advertising - repeated exposure to the same thing eventually makes it stick! 😏

    Re. posting a pic when I’m finished, will do but I work at a glacial pace due to having to learn about and plan each job and life generally getting in the way, so it might take a while…



  • Registered Users Posts: 369 ✭✭MarcusMaximus


    How about filling the chip with a bit of epoxy putty and then painting it with white gloss or enamel paint?



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 10,919 ✭✭✭✭con747


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  • Registered Users Posts: 369 ✭✭MarcusMaximus


    Yeah that looks very promising. The reason I thought of the epoxy putty was because I already have it but getting something that is already white might be better.



  • Registered Users Posts: 369 ✭✭MarcusMaximus


    My batten for the first row of tiles standing on wooden supports so as to avoid screwing through the membrane. The space underneath allows for one tile plus spacer and a 3mm gap between tile and tray. All going well that is..

    IMG_20251116_131709.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 33,358 ✭✭✭✭HeidiHeidi


    Pardon my ignorance on all things in this area - but posters have referenced tanking - I presume that means that the walls/floor are already waterproofed, so you're just basically adding cosmetic tiling?

    I ask because when I got a (non-tanked) shower done, the tiler didn't weight the shower tray when doing the tiling, so eventually with traffic in and out of the shower a row of grout near the tray split and I eventually had a slow leak into the kitchen ceiling below. I got a patch-up job done on it and it failed again, so I now have a stripe of duct tape across the bottom to keep it sealed. Short of taking out the whole thing and starting again, that's as good as it'll get. (They also made a complete arse of the tiled floor, but that's a whole other saga!)

    I suspect none of that applies in your case, but just said I'd post my tale of woe FYI, in case it's of any use.



  • Registered Users Posts: 369 ✭✭MarcusMaximus


    Very sorry to hear of your unfortunate experience. Very frustrating I'm sure.

    Yes tanking refers to the painted on waterproof membrane, the grey stuff in the photos. It also involves a primer and special tape that goes over all joints and seams as well as the fixings that hold the tile backer boards in place, the little bumps at regular intervals along the wall. I also tanked the floor under the tray to try and mitigate the kind of issue you describe. So pretty comprehensive hopefully 🤞.

    The tiling is more than cosmetic though still decorative. Can't imagine anyone leaving it at just tanking, no matter how nice it looks!

    I'm sure there's a way to repair your tiling and seal it properly. Can you not get the guy who did it back in to do it properly?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 71 ✭✭JorgeL


    How did you find stopping the tiles and making it level ? Did it take long?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 71 ✭✭JorgeL


    IMG_6903.jpeg IMG_6902.jpeg

    so this is the little bathroom I’m going to tile.

    It’s 100X170 excl. shower.

    house was built in the 70’s and still has the same original tiles (brown) with the white just painted over 🤣

    It’s pretty hideous which is why I want to do it up.

    The sink and toilet bowl are relatively new but are passable so want to leave them as is if possible.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 10,144 ✭✭✭✭10-10-20


    You must be missing the flexible shower seal around the base of the shower tray and the wall. Have a look at the Classi seal as an example.



  • Registered Users Posts: 369 ✭✭MarcusMaximus


    Do you mean the wooden batten? If so, as I said I wanted to avoid puncturing the membrane, though plenty of guys do nail the batten on anyway and just fill the holes after.

    Anyway, it did take a while to measure and cut the supports and then adjust them with various spacers to get the height and level as exact as I could. I think it turned out pretty good but I'll be putting up the bottom row today so I'll find out for sure once I've done that! 🤞

    Yeah I did a 'temporary' job on the bathroom some years ago and painted the old tiles from c. 1980. Actually they didn't look too bad though some of the paint peeled off after a few years but I just re-did them. We were happy enough with the bathroom like that for quite a while until we weren't, thus the present complete reno.



  • Registered Users Posts: 369 ✭✭MarcusMaximus


    Um.. so am I! Didn't know it was necessary. Neither the tray, tanking kit or backer board installation guides mentioned it, though I'll check them again. They just said to apply a bead of caulk at the seam where the tray meets the board/wall, which I did using mold-resistant silicone. I'll be doing that again when the tiles are in place so there'll be two levels of protection.

    Should I have put that seal in as well? If so can I do it after the fact? 🤔



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 71 ✭✭JorgeL


    sorry, that was a typo, I meant stripping the old tiles to make way for the new ones.

    Do you have a picture of before the tanking ?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 10,144 ✭✭✭✭10-10-20


    No, can't be retrofitted if the tray can't be removed from situ. It ideally needs to be installed in one go and with good access so that it bonds directly to the prepared surface.

    Good quality bathroom sealant can work, but it needs to be the pro stuff and not the Woodies 9 EUR special, but the tray needs to be very well supported with no deflection when loaded.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 33,358 ✭✭✭✭HeidiHeidi


    It wasn't the joint between tray and bottom tile that gave way, it was a row up - seemingly the tray should have been weighted with bricks or something before grouting, so that the weight of someone repeatedly getting in/standing on the tray doesn't stress the grout over time.

    It was a tiler who came to try to fix it who told me that.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 10,144 ✭✭✭✭10-10-20


    Oh right. That might indicate that the tray was sealed right but perhaps the seal pulled away from the wall, taking the bottom tiles with it. Only dismantling that to investigate would tell you for sure. But it does sound like a workmanship issue (incorrect construction).



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 10,144 ✭✭✭✭10-10-20


    To have a flush-finished shower from the 70's/80's which isn't leaking is something! Watch out, An Taisce would put a preservation order on that. 😉



  • Registered Users Posts: 369 ✭✭MarcusMaximus


    Well it's the Soudal Bathroom and Kitchen Premium one that I used. Their stuff is pretty good, is it not?

    https://share.google/5Arv9nqAxoLbIVDuf



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 10,144 ✭✭✭✭10-10-20




  • Registered Users Posts: 369 ✭✭MarcusMaximus


    Ah I see. The stripping was ok, quite satisfying really. Apart from when some of the plaster came away as well! Mostly it was fine though. I decided to use the backer boards as advised largely to create a more level and even surface.

    Here's a pic of the walls before putting up the boards:

    IMG_20250715_164500.jpg

    It was a lot worse before I patched it up:

    IMG_20250706_180445.jpg

    I don't have a full one with just the boards up but this will give you some idea:

    IMG_20250802_170529.jpg

    And this:

    IMG_20250729_205900.jpg

    If I can find a better photo I'll put it up.



  • Registered Users Posts: 369 ✭✭MarcusMaximus


    Actually, just to put the record straight the advice to put up backer boards came from @CelticRambler so he/she can take the credit!



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,646 ✭✭✭CelticRambler


    He/she/it/they … whatever way it comes, I'll take any credit that's offered - but I seem to remember it was a collective effort. :-)



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