Backend Oil

big big loader

Does anyone know the correct backend oil to use in a New Holland TL100A ?

50HX

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058422476/backend-oil

Best thing is ring a dealer & ask, there is such a variation in grades of oil i wouldn't trust anyone else word on it

148multi

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058422476/backend-oil

Probably some form of 10/30

Sami23

Yeah 10/30

kay 9

Ambra - Multi G.

manno

The man is right, why would you trust someone of the Internet, ring the dealer!

patsy_mccabe

From New Holland webpage;

New Holland Fluids Lookup - New Holland Rochester

I'd still check with the dealer.

Danzy

Would it not lift, if it was the wrong oil.

Silverdream

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/123750975#Comment_123750975

You could in theory throw in any hydraulic oil into the backend, all those hardware stores are full of them cans of cheap 32 or 46 oils. They should be banned!! Modern tractors use a shared reservoir for hydraulics and transmission. The correct Hytran or equivalent oil is a multi-functional fluid designed to serve both the hydraulic system and the transmission in one go. Don't skimp on this, the oil is expensive for a reason, as it has to operate consistently at a range of temperatures.

Water John

Good article here on the science. BTW a new word I found, the science of oil and lubrication is called Tribology.

https://www.agriland.ie/farming-news/engine-oils-and-the-science-of-lubrication

hopeso

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/123750975#Comment_123750975

I heard of a John Deere that would do nothing after the wrong oil was put in. On the other hand, a tractor might seem to work perfectly with the wrong oil, but be slowly ruining any of the internals that depend on the oil, for instance the hydraulics, the brakes, the transmission, the clutch and numerous seals….

divillybit

I went to get oil for the back end of my Valtra lately, 125 euro a drum from the dealer for the red 10w 30 oil. The local independent machinery shop were stocking 10w 30 oil for 75 euro per 20 L drum. They said the red is just a dye, and it's fine to mix the red oil and the regular undyed oil. Some mark up the dealer is getting on branded oil. Whatever about using branded oil in a newish machine that might be under a manufacturer warranty but it's hard to justify using the manufacturer branded oil in an older tractor

Tonynewholland

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/123754840#Comment_123754840

Yes it’s just a dye and fine to mix. Like a lot of stuff you get what you pay for. If your tractor is working hard and putting up the hours I’d be getting a good quality oil.

K.G.

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/123754927#Comment_123754927

The difference between a good brand and cheap is usually 20 euro a drum.wòuldnt do much in a tractor repairs for 20 euro

The Nutty M

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/123754840#Comment_123754840

The backend oil in them girls is Hytrans. It's a fair bit different than normal universal oil to help the packs and pumps.

I wouldn't personally put anything other than recommended oil in the backend of anything with a Hitech, Versu or Direct gearbox. But funnily enough, I wouldn't have any trouble using universal oil in the engine.

Its all to do with the risk versus reward and how comfortable you are with it. Did you go into the gearbox at all during the rebuild? Do the clutch packs or were they ok?

divillybit

Didn't do the powershift packs as they are engaging fine but engage very sharply compared to a T series Valtra if you didn't press the clutch button on the gearstick.

Brakes and the PTO packs were done at the same time. Got the local dealer to do them. €4200 to get the brakes and PTO packs done with Clarkes. They only over the road from me. Losing a little bit of oil from the spool valves chest so I'll have to get that out and get the O rings and seals changed and replace a few hoses while I'm at it.

The Nutty M

You're not getting on too bad with the overhaul if you are down to tracing oil leaks.

Peace of mind having the PTO and brakes done. That's true regarding the T series, a lot more refined than the mega but I never remember the 8050 I drove as being sharp. The Versu is another step up again and is super smooth.

Were the brake discs worn or burnt much? Heard of a few of those that are +14k hours and still having lots of meat and no heat stress on the OE discs while in looking at the packs.

divillybit

When I looked at the tractor the pto would start up fine but that was with no load on it, was only when I went to try it on the agitator after I bought it home a L419 code popped up. The discs were smoked in the PTO pack. Hadn't intended on doing the brakes but when they had the tractor ripped it was as well to get the brakes done as they weren't great.

Still lots to refurbish on it, the inner rear mudguards are half rotten but the tractor is working away sound earning it's keep. I'll fix up the aesthetic bits in time but I don't know how much life is left in the powershift packs but its just us driving it so we kinda mind it.