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LED Dimmer Switch

  • 07-01-2025 11:54AM
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 748 ✭✭✭


    Been trying to get a good dimmer switch for LED downlights. Have tried a few but each have issues:

    LANBON L8-HD LCD Smart Dimmer - Looked real nice but was expensive and it sets up its own lcoal network for multiple devices and only communicates through their servers. Often unresponsive to 3rd party controller, such as Alexa.

    then I had a power surge that fried them so I went for this

    BSEED Smart Light Switch Single WiFi Dimmer - much better local integration but seems to have issues with some LEDs, with flickering. Also, I have about 24 down lights on one switch and about 30 on another, which needs more wattage then these can deliver.

    I can't see any other all in one options so am now thinking I should go for a seperate dimmer unit in the wiring, such as the Shelly Dimmer, and have a basic smart swtich on the wall?

    Any thoughts?



Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 24,261 ✭✭✭✭ted1


    get a smart lamp and use the app/Google/alex to do the diming.

    Philips and IKEA even have remote controls which you can put over or beside the switch.



  • Moderators, Science, Health & Environment Moderators Posts: 4,790 Mod ✭✭✭✭Tree


    So I have Shelly dimmer 2's in the kitchen (in the ceiling roses), in the living room and the en suite (in the wall with bypasses in the ceiling rose), and smart LEDs in the bedroom and office (with shelly 1L in the ceiling rose, previously they were in the wall but the bypasses are annoying and it's simpler this way).

    I'm happy with all of them.

    The office and bedroom brightness is managed by adaptive lighting (in home assistant) and has a normal switch on the wall. We never change the brightness ourselves unless painting for example.

    The ensuite also has a regular switch on the wall (and a motion sensor), brightness is controlled by home assistant and again is based on time of day (bright in the day, dim in the night). Never manually change the brightness on that either.

    Living room has a momentary rocker switch on the wall, but honestly, it's easier to use the home assistant tablet outside the door than reach over the couch to the switch, so the switch is largely untouched (even though it was a dose to get such a thing). The brightness is usually set consistent too (only changed if painting or need to look for something dropped)

    The kitchen light fittings have a dimmer in each, regular switch on the wall. The HA tablet is also in the kitchen. From the tablet you can control the brightness, but I also have the switches automated in HA so if you turn them off and on quickly, it will cycle through three brightness levels.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 748 ✭✭✭Robertr


    Cool, that sound exactely like what I am going to do. I have the advantage of being in a bungalow and easy access above all the lights from the attic so plan to put all the Shelly's up there above them. Wondering, I will have Wifi or Zigbee capability in my HA device, is there any benefit to one over the other?

    Also, what kind of screen did you go for? Looking at options now.



  • Moderators, Science, Health & Environment Moderators Posts: 4,790 Mod ✭✭✭✭Tree


    I like shellys cause they're on the wifi and our wireless can handle having a hundred devices online no bother and then I didn't need to set up a zigbee controller. When it comes to things that are permanently powered, I don't think it really matters so much.

    I use some random tablet my brother gave me. It's running lineageOS and has basically no battery, so perfect for permanently mounting on the wall with a cable.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,921 ✭✭✭Wossack


    Might go without saying, but I think you’re quite dependant on the led’s themselves - they have to specifically state they are dimable. You mention about getting flickering - that could be a problem with the bulb as opposed to the actual module/switch



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,545 ✭✭✭Ryath


    Close to pulling the trigger on some of these myself. Have new lights for extension to automate. Bought some more white ambiance filament Hue bulbs for some fittings but one of the pendants takes 6 bulbs and that works out very pricey.

    Benefit it still works like normal switch for visitors and doesn't require a neutral. Can fit the swap out the dimmer module into normal dimmer switches if you have fancy metal ones.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,888 ✭✭✭donspeekinglesh


    I have the single gang one of these (https://candeo.io/store/zigbee-smart-dimmer-switch-1-gang-kit/). It works really well.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 748 ✭✭✭Robertr


    So I got the Shelly Dimmer2 but didn't go that well. Still waiting to hear back from their support team but it basically overheated and fried itself. Now I do have a lot of lights on it (24 at 6w each) but thought that was within the stated max wattage of 200w. Seemed to be working fine at the start but when I ran the calibration if fried it. Its still on and thinks its turning on the lights but no delivering any current to the O socket. I thought I might have had a bad device to tried the other one but got the same result.

    These are the lights:https://www.collingwoodlighting.com/product/h2-deco-csp/?attribute_pa_dimmable-option=mains-leading-edge-trailing-edge

    They were not cheap so should have been ok. Also surprised the Shelly didnt shutdown before the temp got too high as it was showing the temp warning in the interface.

    Shelly asked a few questions so will see what they come back with.



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