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Retaining wall around a tree.

  • 10-12-2024 10:34PM
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 92 ✭✭


    Hi, I'm considering building a retaining wall as a feature like this in my garden. I would then plant a tree inside it. The wall will be 800mm high, would block on edge be sufficient here? Block on flat would be better, but far harder to achieve the curve, I think block on edge would suffice, am I correct?
    I would then clad it later with fancy stone cladding.

    image.png


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,909 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    Hi, the thickness of the wall is one part of the problem as well as the curve. I don't think that it's going to hold tree growth when on flats. Your best bet is a block designed for retaining use, such as these and similar interlocking ones:

    https://mavink.com/explore/Retaining-Wall-Blocks

    As you'll see in their specs they have a minimum radius, but you might find that they work for your objective.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 24,268 ✭✭✭✭ted1




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 31,277 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    I know it's only an example, but the pic you've provided looks bad to me.

    Two issues:

    1. The spread of the shrub is greater than the diameter of the soil, so the shrub will suffer from root restriction. It might just grow more slowly, or it might drop leaves particularly during hot weather, or it might die.
    2. Because it's effectively a raised bed, the soil will be warmer in the summer and colder in the winter. This will make the root restriction worse, as warmer soil dries out faster.

    I don't know when that pic was taken but the leaves do appear to be dropping.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 92 ✭✭davidivad


    Some great ideas there lads. The retaining wall blocks seem ideal.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 27,474 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    I wouldn't build anything until you have picked your tree/shrub and confirmed that its rooting requirements will be met by the size/height of your "raised bed". Some will send down a tap root and might be able to handle it, others are wide an shallow and might either die or knock the wall down :)

    You might be able to "fake" it by having the ground level as normal or close to it inside the wall, plant the tree/shrub as normal, then backfill with stone or something well draining, while protecting the truck.

    The tree/shrub will grow as normal since its just in the ground as normal, and you built a wall around it. Depending on the height of the think you plant, this should work out just fine tbh.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,526 ✭✭✭standardg60


    As long as the base of the raised bed is open to the ground underneath neither point would be an issue as most trees will root down once they reach the perimeter. As Greebo pointed out above the main issue would be the tree roots knocking down the wall if they're inclined to grow horizontally. That would rule out Cherry for one.

    What is the OP planning to plant?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 92 ✭✭davidivad


    I'm planning to plant a japenese maple. Shallow roots i think.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,526 ✭✭✭standardg60




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 31,277 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    Interesting, thanks for the correction.

    I (had) built a retaining wall around an existing tree this year and despite being careful to give it space, I still got crazy leaf drop about two months early. Hopefully it will recover next year.

    But I guess established trees are a different problem than a new planting.

    I still think the example pic posted looks incredibly restricted, and also looks like a transplant. I can't see how you'd get that thick trunk unless it was hard pruned from a larger canopy.

    I have some old potted bay laurels and the trunks are about an inch thick.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,176 ✭✭✭CelticRambler


    I (had) built a retaining wall around an existing tree this year and despite being careful to give it space, I still got crazy leaf drop about two months early.

    You can't, as a rule, enclose an existing tree and increase the depth of soil upwards without causing problems. Even a nominally deep-rooted tree will have small roots that need to be close to the surface. If you built a wall around the trunk and straight away heaped a metre of soil on top of the original surface level, that'd have negative consequences. The better/safer way to bury a trunk is to do it at a rate of about 10-15cm per year.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13,341 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    What's not clear from the OP is if the raised bed is built first and then plant the tree or plant the tree and then build the raised bed.

    If the latter it could be sleeved in say 12" duct[ or whatever the max diameter of the trunk will be and the raised bed then would not impact the trunk and no root pressure on the wall.

    Maybe😎

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 31,277 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    Sure, I haven't changed the soil level, I just cut and retained one side at the the canopy limit where I've put in terracing.



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