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Chainsaw Chain Sharpener

  • 12-08-2024 11:35am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,392 ✭✭✭


    Anyone have one or know if the chain sharpener coming into LIDL next week is any good or easy to use etc. ?

    Tia



Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,965 ✭✭✭mr.stonewall


    Easy enough to use but hard to beat the hand file for a keeping an edge. Have one here and use it from time to time to bring a chain back to life. Key to them is not to temper a chain and only take very little off when sharpening. Mess around with an old chain first

    Most of the sharpening is definitely be with a little Stihl hand file



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,392 ✭✭✭Sami23


    Thanks - at the moment I'm leaving my chains into a dealer to be sharpened.

    When sharpening with a file what do you hold the chain with ?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,965 ✭✭✭mr.stonewall


    On the chain saw bar and in a vice. When in the field there is a little stump vice. A rub of a file every hour or so of cutting makes it easy cutting

    I use one of these to sharpen



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,128 ✭✭✭✭patsy_mccabe


    Use the brake on the saw to stop the chain moving.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 654 ✭✭✭PoorFarmer


    And a paint marker to mark the chain so you won't file the same one twice accidentally



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,835 ✭✭✭9935452


    How much are you being charged?

    I can buy 3 oregon 16 inch chains for around 20 on amazon. It makes it difficult to pay someone a fiver a chain to sharpen them.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 651 ✭✭✭Silverdream


    I bought one 2 years back. It's OK, you can put a good edge on the teeth with it. Great for a mucky or gunked up chain, as it will still sharpen it.

    Downsides are you have to remove the chain to sharpen it, but that's no harm as you should be cleaning out the bar at the same time.

    Other downside is its a bit fiddle to set up the correct angle, and it is a bit of a slow process until you get the hang of it.

    Your chain will not last as long as one sharpened with a file only.

    You need to fix it to a workbench.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,392 ✭✭✭Sami23




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,392 ✭✭✭Sami23


    I mite just but a file so and watch some youtube videos on how best to do it 😅.

    Thanks all for advice



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,630 ✭✭✭memorystick




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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,835 ✭✭✭9935452


    Thats the killer when you can buy a new chain for the price of sharpening an old one .



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,054 ✭✭✭older by the day


    I use one of these too.

    Don't be fooled by YouTube, it takes skill and a lot of practice to edge a chain, with a file without a guide.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,392 ✭✭✭Sami23


    No I ment I'll buy one of those Stihl sharpeners with the guide



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,793 ✭✭✭Field east


    I am left handed

    I am left handed and use a vice on a bench to do my sharpening. Problem is that i , quite I solved it by turning the saw often, do not achieve an even sharpness when sharpening the other side because of my ‘weak ‘ right side . I ‘solved ‘ the problem by turning the saw upside down to edge the other side. I was expecting airlocks, etc, but that did not happen



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 267 ✭✭Accidentally


    +1 for the Stihl sharpener. Easy and fast to use, and small enough to take with you. Just make sure you get the right size, as they are chain specific.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,793 ✭✭✭Field east


    omitted saying that I use the sharpener referred to in post no 4



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,793 ✭✭✭Field east


    And that the three files are inserted the right way - especially the round files



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,713 ✭✭✭blackbox


    I have had no success using a file ( without a guide). End up cutting in curves.

    I use a Dremel with the right diamond tool now for touching them up. I already had the Dremel so I never tried the guides.

    I also have the Lidl sharpener. It's good, but it always seems to take a lot off so i don't use it every time.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,392 ✭✭✭✭Furze99


    This is pretty much the case, our local dealer used to take in a few chains at a time and sharpen them. Last time I went in, he insisted that it could only be left in with the full saw and on the bar. When you factor in the hassle of driving back & forth and only doing one chain, I declined not to bother there anymore.

    Have one of the Lidl/Aldi bench mounted units, as mentioned above it works well enough with a chain that has been used and sharpened with a hand file. The advantage is that once set up, each cutter gets the same angle and depth. But still it's never as good as when new, the rakers have also to be checked and filed down a bit as required.

    So now I just do above, buy new chain, keep it in reasonable nick and then retire it. Can't be bothered with the dealer anymore and I suspect they don't want the task either, small money for them.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 309 ✭✭Bog Man 1




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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,967 ✭✭✭CelticRambler


    Not sure Lidl were even around when I bought my sharpener, but it looks like the same basic design. I'd previously been using a file (with guide) and still have it for the odd "quick fix" when I'm up the field … but the sharpener is infinitely superior in every way. Once you have it set up, there's essentially only one thing that can go wrong, and that's jamming the stone down on the chain for no good reason! With the file, you have be watching so many different aspects of the process, I found it was far easier to wreck a tooth, or a chain.

    So nowadays I generally work with four chains, use each one till it's lost its edge, swap for a fresh one, and sharpen the whole set when I get back to the workshop. Said workshop is getting a special shelf for the sharpener later this year to make life easier … but for about the last fifteen years, it's been happily doing its job clamped to a worktop with a bog standard spring clamp (2.99 for two in Lidl France this week!)



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,965 ✭✭✭mr.stonewall




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,967 ✭✭✭CelticRambler


    Nope. The grindstone takes so little off there's no noticeable advantage (especially compared to when I used to use the file).

    I know all the how-to guides bang on about how important every fraction of a milimetre is, but I'm happy enough to be guide by the real-world performance, and my chains - when freshly sharpened - are just as happy to slice through 90cm oak trunks after years of sharpening as they were straight out of the Oregon packet.



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