Immersion Smart Switch

tech

Currently have an ATP timer switch for immersion, and have purchased this new smart switch

looking at replacing with this new smart switch

from old ATP

Live in would goto L on new switch

Live Out would goto Load

and Neutral would goto N

this should be good ?

Wearb

Do you have any better wiring diagram? Is neutral switched?

drury..

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058362845/immersion-smart-switch

Neutral unlikely to be switched

Keep in mind immersion needs an isolator switch

A lot of the diy folk forget that when fitting smart controls

tech

It's just a switch for switch swap out. No isolator

On existing switch?

drury..

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/122463336#Comment_122463336

Yes

An immersion needs an isolator such as a standard immersion switch

It can't just have a smart switch and nothing else

That's the way things are gone now anyhow with people with no electrical training "thinking" they know what they're doing

Absolute madness over on the renewable energy forums what they're at

drury..

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/122463336#Comment_122463336

It's a straight swop

tech

Ok so a straight swap so?

Wossack

could it not be put in between the existing ‘dumb’ switch and the immersion itself? So the existing acts as the isolator?

I imagine the issue here, is that the smart switch is not an adequate absolute power disconnection if someone wants to turn off the immersion quickly/safely

drury..

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/122463421#Comment_122463421

Yes that's it

Smart switches/timers usually fitted before standard immersion switch

Wearb

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/122463421#Comment_122463421

I'm not sure that I'd be happ with using a timer switch as an isolator. Even if that manual switch switches neutral and live.

Put in a dedicated double pole isolator in place of the timer and then your smart switch on the load side of that.

Because of the load, a lot more care needs to be taken at the connectors than if it were just a light switch, which would be more forgiving due to low current draw.

Obviously if a dual immersion, you'll only be able to use the smart switch to control one element. If that's the case, you might need adjustment to internal immersion wiring.

drury..

Isolating switches should isolate all live conductors so that means DP switching

Seems to be a lot removing isolation without knowing they're doing wrong

Its simply a matter of replacing the timer element with smart switch. It looks as though there is already a double poll isolator in the line circuit below it - but a better photo would confirm this. If it was installed by a certified spark it will be there.

If it isn't there then it needs adding after the smart switch.

Another point of note is that these switches should be mounted outside the hot press for it to be compliant.

tech

here are some more PICS,

this is located in the utility room

drury..

Pics not really showing much .Some type of diy work there .

There's no cpc(earth) present in pics so it's not professional electrical work anyhow

Time to get a REC involved . You can't realistically be given step by step instructions and expect somehow to be competent because of this.

You need to identify if there is a main isolator switch - generally they have a neon light built in. Isolate them at the fuse board - open them up and check where all the wires go.

Very troubling that there appears to be no earth wire - potentially lethal. However if you are not able to answer these questions yourself or identify the potential deficiencies - you have absolutely no business trying to do this and you should be calling a spark.

drury..

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/122465579#Comment_122465579

It's unlikely to be lethal in any way .Just the way it was done in a diy manner.

It's just clearly not professional work.

Anyway op(with respect) has no idea what's he's doing so not really safe to be advising further imo