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HKC 10270 Alarm activation, code not in manual list

  • 03-03-2024 3:56am
    #1
    Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators Posts: 6,522 Mod ✭✭✭✭


    Had an alarm activation just after 0200 this morning, and on shutting off the noise, it was an alarm and gross alarm for the patio door, and given I was sitting by it at the time, I knew there was something strange going on, but I'm not going clattering around in the roof void to check the wiring, we had a problem early in the winter, where a mouse got into the roof, and chewed out a cable, but we've not been aware of any noise from unwanted furry visitors recently, so I'm hoping it's down to a low temperature issue, I'll know more in the morning when I can get into it without disturbing the rest of the house, and can check what the panel thinks is the zone resistance value for that pair of sensors, a vibration detector and a reed switch.

    One thing I don't have information about, alarm and gross alarm I understand, but there's another message in the log that doesn't appear in the version of the manual I have here, the message on the phone is BA confirm, and I can't see that anywhere in the messages that it can send, can anyone throw any light on that message please.

    Thanks

    Steve

    Shore, if it was easy, everybody would be doin it.😁



Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,855 ✭✭✭✭altor


    BA confirm is a second activation, sensor and reed, meaning a confirmed alarm.



  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators Posts: 6,522 Mod ✭✭✭✭Irish Steve


    THanks, that's interesting in that I was sitting right by that door at the time, so I know it didn't open, the zone is showing correct resistance again today, so I'm hoping it was a temperature related issue, the vibration detector is on the aluminium frame, as of now it's set and working, we'll see if anything shows up again tonight, and if it does, then probably a swap of the vibration device will be called for as first check, based on experience here over the years with them.

    Shore, if it was easy, everybody would be doin it.😁



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,855 ✭✭✭✭altor


    If the sensor is wired in series Id look at the cable first.

    You could double up the cores if there may be an issue with a mouse who may have started to bite at the cable.



  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators Posts: 6,522 Mod ✭✭✭✭Irish Steve


    Thanks for the thought, that's the plan, we did have a mouse issue some while back. I'm hoping we've not got a repeat, and it's been OK for the last couple of nights, it's been a bit crazy for the last few days, I'm hoping to have a closer look once we've got the immediate hassle out of the way, a major gas upgrade, it's been a while coming and at last, we can get the cylinders back where they're meant to be, which will be good, but we hit some issues, in order to get it certified again, we have to upgrade some of the appliances, they don't pass the new level of regulations, so certifying the system is a problem, and to cap it all, I also need Carbon monoxide sensors now in rooms with open flames, that's going to mean adding a couple of sensors to the panel, fortunately I have spare zones that can take them, but it's an extra task I wasn't planning on, when that's out of the way, I can look at the cables to that sensor.

    Shore, if it was easy, everybody would be doin it.😁



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,855 ✭✭✭✭altor


    You can add up to 70 wire free devices so the control panel should have you well covered.



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  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators Posts: 6,522 Mod ✭✭✭✭Irish Steve


    to avoid hassles with batteries, I've gone with wired CO detectors, 12V from the panel battery, also have the advantage of a hell of a lot less than the wireless devices, I can get to the ceiling void above the 2 rooms that need the CO detectors from the eaves crawl space, so a bit of messing to get an 8 core from the panel to the area of the 2 rooms, but after that, relatively quick and easy, and hopefully fit and forget. I have spare wired zones without having to get a zone expander, so that's less pain for now, and slightly overkill, each detector will be on it's own zone, makes it very simple then to know what's triggered, even if we're away and I'm looking at it on the phone.

    Should be the same settings as the fire detectors, other than set them up as gas devices, I'll hopefully know later today, first priority is to get the new gas applicances up and running, a lot more work than we expected due to changes in RGI regulations, and that's important to avoid domestic strife in the kitchen, once that's done, wire in the new detectors won't affect the kitchen or the lounge.

    Shore, if it was easy, everybody would be doin it.😁



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,855 ✭✭✭✭altor


    Yes, the wired version is cheaper once you can get cables from A to B.

    Its recommended to have them on separate zones so doing the same yourself is good practice.



  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators Posts: 6,522 Mod ✭✭✭✭Irish Steve


    That's the plan, it makes life so much easier to see if a zone has alarmed, every room is a separate zone, as are the fire detectors, makes it much easier to find out what's wrong if the need arises.

    The house is dormer, so I've access to the roof crawl spaces, makes getting wires in to the right places a lot simpler.

    Shore, if it was easy, everybody would be doin it.😁



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