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I need advice on buying a control box for an oil burner.

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  • 24-02-2024 1:38pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 16,043 ✭✭✭✭


    The oil tank ran empty and after the refill the burner won't start. It makes a noise but it's not igniting. I bled the pump for any air in the system and cleaned the magic eye. But it's still not working.

    I called a plumber up to take a look. He reckons the control box is the issue, but I'd be better off getting a new burner.

    Rang a family member who's a plumber but unfortunately lives halfway across the country. He thinks the initial plumber is just taking the easy way out replacing the whole burner. He says even if you got a new burner, sometimes they're not calibrated correctly out of the box. He thinks I should get a boiler man to take a look at it as he would be more specialised in the matter and could service it properly.

    What would be people's advice on here please? If it is just a matter of the control box, I could swap that myself and avoid a plumber labour charge. Is there anywhere, preferably a bricks and mortar shop where I could buy one. I've posted images below of it. And I could see about arranging a service by a boiler man. Probably wouldn't get anyone over the weekend now anyway. Or would I be better off getting the burner replaced? It must be 20 years old at least.


    Post edited by sligeach on


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Comments

  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,213 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    It's very unlikely that you need a control box. The advice to get a boiler tech is the best advice. Perhaps it could do with a service anyway and also ask him to sort out that filter. If you send him the pic he'll see what you mean.

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,466 ✭✭✭John.G


    If you didn't bleed it where I've shown the red arrow (Blue arrow fine) then the oil pump pressure should still be fine.

    Is the fan starting up and running for ~ 12 secs and then locking out?

    Have you cleaned the photo cell where the blue arrow is pointing to?.

    I would suggest slackening the oil flexible pipe under the oil pump until you get a good dribble of oil, retighten and remove the blank plug (marked in blue) completely and you might get a very slight dribble (boiler off), retighten finger tight and slacken back ~ a 1/2 turn or so, fire up the boiler, as soon as it fires (hopefully), tighten up this blank plug securely.

    Also renew the flexible ASAP.





  • Registered Users Posts: 4,114 ✭✭✭blackbox


    I have found Heatmerchants to have a great selection of boiler parts (no connection).

    However, I agree that it is more likely a blockage or airlock rather than a controller fault in the given circumstances.



  • Registered Users Posts: 16,043 ✭✭✭✭sligeach


    I've uploaded a couple of videos of the burner. It doesn't cut out, it keeps going but doesn't fire up. Is that normal pressure for the oil to be coming out at? It can come out a bit quicker if I loosen it a bit more and push the bolt in, but not by much.

    Would sediment be blocking the pressure at the tank entrance when it ran out and would it be possible to clear it if I removed that nut and used a pump to blow it back towards the oil tank?

    Post edited by sligeach on


  • Registered Users Posts: 16,043 ✭✭✭✭sligeach


    I have bled it at the blue arrow and I cleaned the photocell.



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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,213 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    How much oil is in the tank now?

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



  • Registered Users Posts: 16,043 ✭✭✭✭sligeach




  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,213 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    Am I seeing it correctly? Does that oil flow decrease towards the end of the video?

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,466 ✭✭✭John.G


    It should lock out after 12 seconds, just running and running is normally a indication of a faulty photo cell as the boiler is seeing a false flame. Just remove the photo cell and fire up the boiler, see if it now locks out after 12 secs or so.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,354 ✭✭✭Lenar3556


    Control box could be at issue, but there are other possibilities too. There isn’t really any connection between running out of oil and a failed control box though.

    I would actually be inclined to replace the complete burner in the circumstances given the age and condition. I think it would offer better overall value in the long term than replacing parts on this one.

    It’s a Riello G3B. Heatmerchants in sligo will have one off the shelf. Something in the region of €300.

    There will be a basic configuration on it, and it should run but it would be good to get a boiler tech to set it up correctly. I can PM you some names if it helps.



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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,213 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    I certainly wouldn't recommend putting an off the shelf burner into a boiler as is.

    It would need proper setting up to prove its running safely.

    Also if only one part broken, it makes no economic sense to replace it.

    Edit: I just changed would to wouldn't. I just now noticed that auto correct had decided -it knew better than I- what I wanted to write.

    Post edited by Wearb on

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,354 ✭✭✭Lenar3556


    Well there is whatever is causing this - the nozzle and flexi will need changing, plus the gasket. The burner head is likely past its best and the motor bearings sound well worn too.



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,466 ✭✭✭John.G


    Those control boxes are pretty bomb proof, I have one in a Riello G5X burner, Firebird, almost 19 years old. Daughter, the same, 21 years old. I did see one box damaged because the person who in removing it didn't slacken the locking screw on the side and yanked it out presumably.



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,213 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    Sorry guys. I needed to correct my last post.

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



  • Registered Users Posts: 16,043 ✭✭✭✭sligeach


    Ya, it's not consistent. Every now and then it splutters a bit.



  • Registered Users Posts: 16,043 ✭✭✭✭sligeach


    I removed the photocell and turned it back on. It just carried on as before, it didn't cut out.

    Thanks everyone for your help so far.



  • Registered Users Posts: 589 ✭✭✭jonnygee


    Does the air flap open as soon as you switch it on. the pump pumps oil into the ram to open it. if it is not opening then you have no pump pressure.

    Am I seeing oil coming out of the pressure adjuster above the chrome nut where you bled the burner. Did you unscrew this?



  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    Why is that? My boiler had the exact issue described in OP and it was the control box which was changed. No issue since.



  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    OP as I said my boiler had the exact problem. I assumed air locked as well but had a boiler lad out and it was 100% control box. I think he ordered it from the UK so I can’t help you where to get one.

    seems like a mad idea to buy a brand new boiler over a minor fault tbh

    Post edited by Wearb on


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,950 ✭✭✭jimf


    could also be a blocked nozzle

    boiler needs a good service anyway glass bowl filter is def a no no and that hose as well badly needs replacing

    why would you get a new burner without knowing the problem



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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,213 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    It might be an airlock only partially cleared. Or dirty filter or pump gauze. Or faulty pump. Or coil, control box etc.

    Above is why it will be best to have a boiler tech look at it. They will/should check the cheapest fixes first, before putting a customer to the unnecessary expense of just swapping parts until it works.

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



  • Registered Users Posts: 55 ✭✭eronayne


    In the area that you bled it. Take a look around the right hand side. There is a hex grub screw for bleeding also at about 2 o clock


    crack that open when it’s running and see will it fire up



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,466 ✭✭✭John.G


    I suppose its difficult not to think that a new control box wouldn't at least solve the continuous running without attempting to fire followed by lockout after 17 secs, (12 secs purge + 5 secs to prove a flame, on mine)



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,950 ✭✭✭jimf


    just read this post again

    if burner stays running without photocell fitted it could also be a faulty motor you need to check for 54v at terminal 7 on control box base before fitting new box otherwise you will cook it



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,213 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    I knew that. Guess how 😳🙈😥. So lucky that I didn't go on to fry the replacement. I think it was Shane (long ago of this parish) that gave me a heads up and saved me frying the new one.

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



  • Registered Users Posts: 16,043 ✭✭✭✭sligeach


    So where the arrow is pointed, what do I need to check?



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,213 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    If you're adamant that you're not getting a tech, then first try John's suggestion above

    Just remove the photo cell and fire up the boiler, see if it now locks out after 12 secs or so.

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



  • Registered Users Posts: 16,043 ✭✭✭✭sligeach




  • Registered Users Posts: 16,043 ✭✭✭✭sligeach


    I took a photo of the PCB on the control box. Does anyone think there anything visibly wrong with it?

    I don't know what that plastic layer is running around contacts 4, 5 and 6. Would it be alright to undo those screws and look underneath to see if there's any visible damage?



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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,213 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    I've often removed those screws to have a look, but never could see an obvious problem.

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



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