Aritech CS350, display off

ric65

For more than 20 years I have had a CS350 model with external siren and internal buzzer in which I have replaced the batteries 3 times without problems, of course first entering the technical code. About four years ago, during the holidays the siren sounded due to a storm and when I returned, I found the display off, the external siren normally deactivated and the internal buzzer was crackling, probably due to the battery in the control unit which was out of charge. I typed the maintenance code but I couldn't see anything on the display because it was turned off, so I preferred to do nothing and simply disconnected the + and - of the buzzer. After 4 years i think that the two batteries are both flat but i'm not 100% sure, in fact my fear is that, if I want to reactivate it replacing the batteries, if I open the control panel box and deactivate the tamper, the siren can sound, making me fly off the balcony :-).

So I ask you two questions:

1) Is it normal for the display to turn off ? I thought it was powered by the mains voltage.

2) What procedure should I follow to replace the batteries when the display is off ?

Thanks in advance and best regards

altor

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058331172/aritech-cs350-display-off

On that old system the battery been low can cause the display to go blank.

The way around it, is to disconnect the old battery and then the mains supply.

Power up on mains and the display should come back on, install new battery.

If it doesn't you could have a different issue and may need to replace the control panel and keypad.

ric65

I read that to disconnect the mains power I would have to remove the fuse in the central unit. It's a safe operation or my hair will stand on end :-)

Thank you, you are very kind

altor

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121621739#Comment_121621739

You can turn the mains off at the fuse board if you are worried about working with electrics.

ric65

I didn't have time to check but I had a doubt about turning off the power. Isn't the alarm connected directly to the life-saving RCD? To turn off the power can I also disconnect the life-saving RCD instead of opening the control unit ?

altor

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121633279#Comment_121633279

I don't know what the mains is coming off but either way you would need to open the control panel to disconnect the battery

ric65

I haven't had time to intervene yet but I also found that I had installed the batteries in the summer of 2016 and two years later (2018) I had the problem described at the beginning. But I also forgot to mention that since then, the internal volumetric radar LED has remained on steadily. What would this mean ?

Many thanks !

altor

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121673787#Comment_121673787

Don't know what that is but if you do a full power down, battery and mains then reconnect the new battery you will know if it sorts it.

Its not advisable to leave a dead battery connected as the system is trying to charge the battery plus the battery itself id trying to get a charge from the system. This in turn can cause more issues.

ric65

I decided to call the technician, I don't have time to do the tests. A question, can I connect only magnetic sensors to this Aritech model or something else ?

altor

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121707534#Comment_121707534

Yes, you can add contacts plus shock sensors to that system.

ric65

Sorry to bother you again but this morning I had half an hour free and I took a look with the multimeter which I know a little about. Before making an upgrade, I would like to understand with your help if I can recover it for another use.

So, at the secondary of the transformer I measured 0 VAC even though the input was 230 VAC, and 1.5 ohm as winding resistance, however the technician at the secondary had measured the correct value of 19 VAC.

But what could have happened in the meantime?

I wanted to try with just the battery so I removed the mains fuse and when I connected a charged battery, I heard a very brief sound from the external bell, which was silenced immediately afterwards, I imagine the siren battery is flat, is that right?

At the same time, the top green LED (~) lights up on the keypad panel display, and after about 10 seconds the central LED (!) lights up together with the continuous beep and the "230V fault" message.

Note: The display is not backlit.

I tried entering my usual code to silence the beep but the keys don't respond to finger pressure and I don't even hear the beep each time a key is pressed. What is going on ?

Thanks, a greeting

altor

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121730449#Comment_121730449

If you have mains going to the panel then there is a fuse out to the transformer, check this is working, then check the VAC again.

If nothing then it could be the transformer in the panel is gone.

If the keypad came on, when powered by the battery, then you have power at keypad end?

The best option would upgrade the system itself using all the devices in place if working.

ric65

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121730755#Comment_121730755

To carry out these tests, can I exclude the external siren by removing its fuse and putting in its place a 5 mm red LED with a resistor in series between pins 4 and 5 ? Is a 1k resistor good ?

When the system is powered by battery, the keyboard does not turn on, and the keys don't respond and the display backlight is missing, but the messages appear even if it is difficult to read them.

If tomorrow I can I'll try to measure the voltage between the pins
12-13 of the keyboard
2-3 motion sensor?
4-5 external siren?
6-7 internal buzzer ?

If by updating you mean changing the control unit and panel keyboard, leaving the devices that are currently there, that would be my intention but I would also like to recover this CS350 to use it elsewhere.

thx

altor

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121732079#Comment_121732079

If you remove the fused then you wont be getting any voltage when testing.

Also, you would need to have outputs activated to test.

ric65

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121735884#Comment_121735884

Sorry, maybe I didn't understand. I'm referring to the F3 fuse on the bell, not F0 on the mains. Since I often only have time at night, during the tests I don't want to make the external siren sound and instead I prefer to have an LED light up. It can be done ?

altor

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121736585#Comment_121736585

The best option is to remove the cables connected into the outputs before powering the system on.

Just make note of what cable went where.

Then you can test to your hearts content without making a sound.

ric65

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121740338#Comment_121740338

I have now opened the control unit, disconnected the wires of outputs 4 and 5 and then connected only the battery and measured the following voltages on the pair of pins:

2-3 12.65/12.69 Volt

4-5 12.43/12.47 V

6-7 12.43/12.47 V

12-13 12.67/12.71 V

I read on the keypad display

"230V fault"

with the continuous beep as it always does when the mains is missing,

but la tastiera non si è accesa and the keys do not respond.

What can I still do or control ?

ric65

I also opened the keypad panel and the voltage comes here too. The electrolyte caps are not swollen.

If I knew there was a faulty component, even an IC, I would have no problem replacing it, even if it were smd, but I haven't the faintest idea.

ric65

I removed the transformer and it works, I get 20 VAC at the output while the mains fuse was faulty, a fake contact.

Initially, Low Battery appeared as happened 7 years ago at the time of the fault, I think due to the mains fuse which started to fail and the battery was discharged, without the possibility of recharging. Could it have been like this?

Now with the mains voltage connected coincidentally I pressed the arrow key and keypad came on but the 1 2 3 7 and ok (V) keys don't respond, the others do. Previously I had pressed only the non-functioning keys.

How is it possible that only some buttons work and others don't ? False contacts?

altor

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121751408#Comment_121751408

Could be not making a connection with the PCB under the keys or it could be that it needs to be cleaned

ric65

DELETED

ric65

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121754969#Comment_121754969

Thanks, there was dust under the rubber cover of the keypad. Everything is OK now.

I just need to replace the battery in the external siren.
Do you confirm that if I enter the eng code, this will prevent the external siren from sounding, even if the siren tamper is active (siren without cover) ?

altor

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121755972#Comment_121755972

No it wont but if you go into the output tests you can trigger the external and internal bell from the keypad

ric65

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121767940#Comment_121767940

But I don't want to activate the bells, I was asking for the opposite, that is, I don't want the external siren to sound when I replace the battery and I don't remember if, when I had already done this job, it was enough to enter the technical code and then go into maintenance. This is what I asked in my first post but I never received confirmation. 😉

altor

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121768158#Comment_121768158

I did reply and say no it wont 😂

ric65

I'm sorry but I related your "no" to my "Do you confirm?" :-D

ric65

In addition to the magnetic contacts, I knew that anti-vibration or inertial ones can also be installed, but I couldn't find any. Is it possible to make it recognize some infrared sensor to put it on balconies? Thank you !

altor

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121768421#Comment_121768421

They can be set up as shock zones in the panel if using shock sensors.

By Default this may be off so you would need to check in the zone menu/ shock zones.

Yes, you can use external Motion detectors on a zone if you have one free

ric65

Ok thx.

In paragraph 6.8 of STATUS CONTROLS, the 230V State and the Battery State are in ON while Fuse State and Access + input/output State are in OFF. Wouldn't it be better to put the fuses ON? (if it had been ON I probably wouldn't have called the technician) What is the purpose of the "Access + input/output" state?

altor

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121770237#Comment_121770237

If the outputs where on then your external and internal bell would be going of constant