Options for extending 6sq.mm cooker cable

jonnygee

Redesigned kitchen. The current cooker isolator switch (2 gang 45A switch on a 32a circuit) will now be behind fridge freezer, so it,s not accessible now. Cooker isolator switch needs cable extended to allow the switch to be moved about a foot to the right.

Option 1. Leave current switch where it is and add a second switch fed from load side of current switch.

Option 2. Remove current switch and replace it with a 45a cooker connector with cable out to new switch.

Option 3. Remove current switch and extend cable using 60a strip connector. cover connection with a blanking plate.

Which option should I choose or are there any other options to extend cable. (excluding crimping)

kirk.

When jointing I'd twist the stranded wires together and get the cpcs under 2 screws

That type joining won't give trouble after

Your REC will sort it out anyhow the best method there

rob w

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058318467/options-for-extending-6sq-mm-cooker-cable

Using suitably rated WAGO maintenance free connectors and a suitable junction box would probably be my preference there.

kirk.

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121249315#Comment_121249315

Not sure id use wago here they might be rated but I'd prefer the above method using decent connectors such as thorsman for a cooker

2011

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121249315#Comment_121249315

Agree, they are superior to screw in terminals as the spring ensures that the connection remains under pressure. This is rated for 40 A and is suitable for 10 mm sq.

https://ie.farnell.com/wago/2606-1103-020-000/tb-wire-to-brd-3pos-8awg/dp/2749690?gclid=Cj0KCQjw4bipBhCyARIsAFsieCyiTsrCW0em8tpmCCKBTUTt2FaFPkge7tpB-nKKsb3cvn7tHMT_C2AaAorhEALw_wcB&gross_price=true&CMP=KNC-GIE-GEN-SHOPPING-PerformanceMax-High-Margin-Test1573

I guess the risk in extending the cable is that somebody drills into the cable at a later date. They do not expect a cable to be there as the original cooker switch is not visible.

The best although the most inconvenient would be option 4: Pull in a new circuit, and disconnect the old one.

kirk.

That wago isn't suitable

Only takes solid and ferruled

jonnygee

Thanks for the replies. I am thinking of removing the switch an asking the electrician to use an MK cooker connector to extend the cable. Although the switch that is there is in good condition so I would probably reuse that. I dont think I would be happy using strip connector. The join will be behind the fridge so will be visible.

2011

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121250347#Comment_121250347

Assuming that the cable isn't solid then a ferrule can be installed or a pin type lug (to make the connection a solid type conductor).

2011

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121250697#Comment_121250697

Remember whatever way you choose to join the cable a plank plate can be installed over the joint. This can be secured to the existing cooker switch back box (which I assume is flush mounted). This would mitigate the risk of someone touching a live conductor.

kirk.

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121253091#Comment_121253091

Those methods are not listed only ferrules/fine-stranded and solid

I wouldn't use ferrules and 7 strand together

rob w

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121253694#Comment_121253694

There are other suitable options in the WAGO line.

The below is suitable for all conductor types, rated for 41A and can take up to 6mm2.

https://www.wago.com/global/installation-terminal-blocks-and-connectors/compact-splicing-connector/p/221-612#details

Screw terminal connectors wouldn't be my favourite option for this instance. They can loosen over time with heating/cooling, especially on a high current circuit like a cooker. Have come across plenty of well aged strip connectors that are barely tight at all anymore when you check the screw on them. The screws can damage the conductor if overtightened too causing other issues.

mickdw

I'd pull it out and do a new run if at all possible.

kirk.

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121254018#Comment_121254018

Ya but the 6sq stranded you can twist the conductors together and simply insert into a connector , this won't overheat ever.

Different matter if you're using solid conductors and connectors

Anyway the preferred method now is wagos as posters said. Check the specs before using.

kirk.

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121254098#Comment_121254098

Overkill probably

2011

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121253694#Comment_121253694

Ferrules are listed.

jumbone

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121250697#Comment_121250697

If it's visible then its reasonably accessible right?

Are you the type who switches the isolator off after every use?

That's not really necessary so you could just leave it where it is

kirk.

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121255356#Comment_121255356

Read the spec

Ferrules + fine stranded only

If 7stranded was suitable the descriptions or spec would list it

Anyway as above the 221s cover all 3 cable types

kirk.

Leaving aside jointing the question wasn't answered whether it should be jointed behind fridge

I would say a joint behind a fridge could possibly be considered accessible

I believe wago joints can be made maintenance-free but this requires a proprietary wago box

Any half decent refurb this won't be happening

jonnygee

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121255387#Comment_121255387

I was referring to the fact that it is behind the freezer but not accessible and for someone to be able to drill through the cable then the freezer would have be pulled out. Then it becomes visible.

jonnygee

I came to the conclusion that maybe I was overthinking things here and decided that we will remove the current 2g switch and back box and replace that with a 1g 47mm box, then use a 45a cooker connector to make the joint. After all that is what they are designed for. One cable in , one cable out.

kirk.

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121255841#Comment_121255841

They won't give any trouble

Don't twist the strands and tighten screws well

You're overthinking it , my method with connectors or the wagos and a double blank plate will achieve the same

jonnygee

Yes, that would do the same thing I am sure. I just feel that cooker connectors were designed for the circuit and strip connectors are not. Hopefully I will never find out which one if any is inferior. Thanks for the replies.

AmpMan

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121255356#Comment_121255356

You don't use ferrules on a class 2 cable.

Risteard81

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121261564#Comment_121261564

Personally I'm strongly inclined to agree that ferrules are not appropriate for Class II (coarse stranded) conductors. However many manufacturers of EVSEs insist upon it.

kirk.

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121262554#Comment_121262554

Really ?

I had an assumption that class2 wasn't suitable for ferrules but didn't see anything to back it up online

Didn't know what evse was there . Why would a bad method need to be used rather than fine stranded/ ferrules or crimps

Calahonda52

While you slug it out on the connection type, I am assuming that OP will be extending the cable with cable that meets the new standard which could lead a different sparks to assume the cable was new all the way back to the CU.

Any RECI concerns here?

kirk.

There's no dispute on connection, class 2 and ferrules are not a satisfactory method

Can't see any issue on your point. A cable could be extended any time in an installation

Only issue might be accessibility. I'd say behind fridge is accessible if the location is known or stated somewhere in print

A maintenance-free joint can be inaccessible as it shouldnt need to be accessed for any reason

That would require a proprietary wago box afaik

Risteard81

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121262681#Comment_121262681

EVSE = Electric Vehicle Supply Equipment - the technical name for EV chargepoints. The installation instructions for many EVSEs (e.g. EO Mini range; myenergi Zappi etc.) state that ferrules should be used on any stranded conductors (including Class 2 conductors). As stated, I don't personally agree with this statement as ferrules are really intended for Class 5/6 etc. conductors.

kirk.

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121263722#Comment_121263722

Isn't there usually an isolator fitted . Can the wiring not be changed there from stranded to flexible

Risteard81

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121263897#Comment_121263897

I wasn't suggesting that fine stranded or very fine stranded conductors couldn't be used where appropriate, but it certainly wouldn't be the norm. My point is simply that the manufacturers perhaps erroneously suggest ferrules on Class 2 conductors which might be questionable.

And there should always (not just usually) be an isolator fitted for an EVSE installation within the State.