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switch for 2 speed inline extractor fan

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  • 11-07-2023 9:06pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 5


    Hi! Where I can get such switch?



«1

Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 4,958 ✭✭✭kirk.


    What is it a 4" inline

    Do you need 2 speeds



  • Registered Users Posts: 5 VACN


    6" multifan with timer.

    2 speed is an option, so why not have it.



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,958 ✭✭✭kirk.


    That's an xpelair timer model. May not be same as yours. 21 is high/low wiring

    On-off is ST , a one-way switch

    High-low is S , a one -way switch

    How you control it is up to you. Needs an isolator in the vicinity of fan and fusing according to manual

    You'd need to check the wiring diagram for your fan.

    Post edited by kirk. on


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,958 ✭✭✭kirk.


    I have an inline fan which extracts steam

    I'd only be using max anyway

    You could have something like low comes on with bathroom light for odours and then humidistat switches fan to high for steam

    Up to you really



  • Registered Users Posts: 5 VACN


    >>> xpelair timer model

     Yes same type, same diagram. 

    >>>I'd only be using max anyway

    If my search fails, I will resort to this option.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 4,958 ✭✭✭kirk.


    No mention of fusing , fan has thermal overload protection

    Fusing would complicate the wiring because it has to be wired before everything else

    Fan above needs 4-pole fan isolation if using max/min , probably one of the rotary isolators fitted near fan



  • Registered Users Posts: 5 VACN


    >>>Fan above needs 4-pole fan isolation if using max/min

    I'm not an electrician, so this information just wooshing over me.

    From your post, I can infer the importance of simplifying connections for the sake of reliability.

    If so, then I'm all for it.

    Reliability first.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,490 ✭✭✭hesker


    Why could you not use a 2P isolator on the L N feed before QF



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,958 ✭✭✭kirk.


    You're breaking the supply into the fan so you can safely work on fan

    The only safe way to do this is to break all live conductors in the vicinity of the fan ie: 4-pole

    Basically disconnecting the 5-core flex right before the fan

    Anything else is a lottery in terms of what's off



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,760 ✭✭✭10-10-20




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  • Registered Users Posts: 4,958 ✭✭✭kirk.


    How would you control that ? Is it worth bothering with 2 speeds?



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,760 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    Dual relay such as a dpdt. Two speeds are handy alright as you stated for humidistat switches and the like.



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,958 ✭✭✭kirk.




  • Registered Users Posts: 6,760 ✭✭✭10-10-20




  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,536 Mod ✭✭✭✭2011




  • Registered Users Posts: 4,958 ✭✭✭kirk.


    You're wrong but explain how you isolate with 2-pole with a 5-wire supply to fan

    Regulations say you switch all live conductors



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,958 ✭✭✭kirk.


    What for , you can switch direct?

    Switch feed from bathroom light and switch feed from humidistat or whatever way you want



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,536 Mod ✭✭✭✭2011


    Simple, the 2 pole isolator switches off the phase and the neutral upstream of the point that the circuit becomes 5 wires.

    In other words wire from the supply to 2 pole isolator, from there wire to the 2 speed switch and from there wire to the fan.

    That way when the 2 pole isolator is in the open state all conductors are disconnected.

    This complies fully with the regaultions.



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,958 ✭✭✭kirk.


    No it doesn't

    The wiring may be altered later downstream

    There is no reason to use 2 pole when 4 pole is the only safe option

    3-pole is standard for domestic fan with overrun as per rules

    2 speed with overrun will be 4 pole switching all lives



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,536 Mod ✭✭✭✭2011


    1) If the wiring is altered downstream it makes no odds in terms of safety as the circuit has been completley isolated upstream.

    2) I don't agree that 4 ploes is the "only safe option". Please demonstrate how this is the case.

    3) The rules do note state that a 3 pole isolator is mandatory for a domestic fan with overrun. If you disagree show me the rule. There are often differnet ways to achieve the same goal in a way that complies with the rules.

    4) What is mandatory is the isolator switches all live conductors (which includes the neutral), I have demonstrated how this can be achieved with a 2 pole isolator.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 4,958 ✭✭✭kirk.


    1)For example someone wires fan from a socket spur Later someone decides to control low speed using a switched feed from bathroom light bypassing' isolation'


    Why would you even isolate upstream when you can isolate supply into fan downstream where isolator is located

    Makes no sense



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,958 ✭✭✭kirk.


    Any fan control using the bathroom light the isolator has to go downstream of bathroom light switch(rules)

    Hence requires multipole (rules)

    If it was independent of bathroom light you could argue you can fit a DP upstream

    Same risk arises wiring may be altered later to include bathroom switch wiring



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,958 ✭✭✭kirk.


    I would say now you're right it's possible to use 2-pole isolation upstream of controls according to rules

    1)Wiring would need to be separate to bathroom light

    1)I would consider it bad practice and don't know why it would be done this way

    It's definitely not the 'best' method

    Simply break the supply into the fan

    Post edited by kirk. on


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,536 Mod ✭✭✭✭2011


    Ok, so it would seem that we agree that it is permissible.

    I would consider it best practice to use the 2 pole as I described, you have a different view. Let’s agree to disagree.

    The rules can’t prevent people from altering compliant wiring, in fact nothing can. I think we can also agree on this.



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,958 ✭✭✭kirk.


    Agree I misinterpreted breaking all lives

    Disagree on best practice 'if' possible to use DP isolation



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,958 ✭✭✭kirk.


    2011

    What is your reason for stating that isolating upstream is best practice. I notice you didn't backup that statement with any evidence whereas i fully explained my reasoning.

    The isolator is to isolate the fan not control wiring

    Your statement makes no sense to me

    All logic says you should isolate locally



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,536 Mod ✭✭✭✭2011


    I will take your questions one at a time:

    Q: What is your reason for stating that isolating upstream is best practice.

    A: This allows someone to safely work on the control wiring as well as the fan unit itself.

     

    Q: The isolator is to isolate the fan not control wiring

    A: Where did you get this information from? I would argue that it would be more correct to say that the isolator must isolate the fan, but can also isolate the control wiring.

     

    Q: All logic says you should isolate locally

    A: The isolator can be as local to the fan as you wish. All logic tells me that it is best to design wiring to use components that are easy to obtain.

    In post #7 you state "Fan above needs 4-pole fan isolation if using max/min". I agree that a 4 pole isolator would work, but how common are these for a domestic installation? Can you link to one that you think would be appropriate? Compare this to a 2 pole isolator, these are very easy to obtain.

    Post edited by 2011 on


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,958 ✭✭✭kirk.


    1,2 isolating control wiring is an irrelevance and unnecessary

    3, good practice would be to break live conductors locally as per appliance isolation, you are guaranteed electrical isolation, fitted upstream electrical isolation is never guaranteed


    Isolating upstream may introduce complexity, cabling and time to the work if using bathroom wiring and is of no benefit

    It may be useful to be able to isolate 'fan only' to test wiring and troubleshoot wiring faults


    Screwfix €20 , rotary isolators are commonly used in domestic installations



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,536 Mod ✭✭✭✭2011


    That isolator is a bit ugly for a home IMHO. I think that many a customer would prefer a DP isolator in the expensive new kitchen rather than that monstrosity.

    What you suggest and what I suggest will work and is compliant, each to their own. We have already agreed on this, you just need to accept that different people will tackle the same problem in different ways.

    "good practice would be to break live conductors locally as per appliance isolation, you are guaranteed electrical isolation, fitted upstream electrical isolation is never guaranteed"

    The part in bold is factually incorrect. An isolator will work in exactly the same way regardless of where it is fitted.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 4,958 ✭✭✭kirk.


    Isolator will likely be in attic

    The last paragraph you are changing the subject to 'operation' of an isolator which is a different matter

    I accepted 2-pole complies if wiring allows when I realized I had probably misinterpreted the rule on breaking live conductors . I have no issue with opinions or being proven wrong

    However you claimed 2 pole is "best practice" and have failed to demonstrate why imo .

    Anyway we'll have to agree to disagree it seems

    Post edited by kirk. on


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