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Leveling compound on wooden floor

Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 990 ✭✭✭Deregos.


    It's worth a shot Mike. It's a much quicker and cheaper option than ripping the sagging floor out.

    Try and reduce as much movement as possible in the floor by securing it tightly with screws, and scratch up the area in a crosshatch motion with a Stanley knife.

    If it doesn't work, then do the bigger job would be my tuppence worth.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 31,221 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    No way would I use leveling compound on a wooden floor.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 18,420 ✭✭✭✭rob316


    You can screed a timber floor you just need to fill all the gaps in the floor boards with silicone and between the floor and wall.

    Alternatively you could board it out with 9mm plywood and then poor the compound on it. That's what I did when I tiled an upstairs bathroom with a dip in the floor boards.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,004 ✭✭✭micks_address


    thanks having a carpenter look at it and they don't like the idea of using levelling compound. I'd imagine they will double side the existing joists with new ones.. will try and get them to look at it over the next few weeks. holiday season for most



  • Subscribers Posts: 42,171 ✭✭✭✭sydthebeat


    Trying to solve sagging joists by adding more weight to the floor doesn't make any sense at all to me



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,004 ✭✭✭micks_address


    well to be fair they havent looked at it so i dont know what they will suggest



  • Subscribers Posts: 42,171 ✭✭✭✭sydthebeat


    i think a carpenter will propose a carpenters response to the problem.

    accro up the sagging joists, remove the floor finish, determine if its a lack of bracing or inadequately specced joists, and amend as necessary.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,965 ✭✭✭CelticRambler


    I'll be using something very similar on a small landing where there's a bit of a dip in the (300-year old, tongued-and-grooved) oak parquet floor, and a bit of a wobble where I had to cut, lift and re-fit another section when running power cables. The whole landing is only about 2m², slightly recessed compared to the adjacent space, and will be carpetted afterwards, so it's the right product for the job. I've previously used the stuff on chipboard flooring prior to tiling too, to help evenly bury a heat mat and seamlessly blend the chipboarded area with a concrete slab. Again, it was the right stuff to use in those circumstances, so worked well.

    While you're waiting for the guy to come, though, use your spirit level to check (a) whether the whole floor is in fact level in all directions, and (b) how deep is the dip really. What feels like "a bit" of a dip when you walk on it can actually be a more of a "hole" if you measure it, and may well need a lot more material to fill it than you think. And if there's more than a few mm of a slope on the floor, all your product will flow to one side, in which case Murphy's Law will dictate that that's the wall with the doors in it and now you've got even more problems to sort out ...



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 31,221 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    I'll be using something very similar on a small landing where there's a bit of a dip in the 300-year old, tongued-and-grooved oak parquet floor...will be carpetted afterwards

    shots fired!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,965 ✭✭✭CelticRambler


    :-) A necessary evil. 25m² of the original floor wll remain exposed (and not entirely flat), but these 2-3m² need to be covered - as much to protect the parquet from further insult as to limit the sea-sickness induced by walking through the space.



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