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Advice on running Ethernet cable outdoors

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  • Registered Users Posts: 216 ✭✭SocialSpud


    I was pretty dead set on the red USB ducting but have 2 reasons to go for other options

    1. The cheapest I can find it is here for €210 here including delivery. Whereas I could get 100 meters of the 25mm blue MDPE pipe for €140 including delivery here.
    2. The pipe will be feeding up to the door frame where I plan on feeding the ethernet cable, I have to drill away a bit of the concrete underneath (highlighted in red below) to make space for conduit so it's flush. So the less I need to drill the better. The reason it needs to be flush is because there will be a granite slab step going here. Of course this is only viable if 25mm can pull 2 Cat6 cables with moderate bends.




  • Registered Users Posts: 31,058 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    That water pipe looks perfect.



  • Registered Users Posts: 216 ✭✭SocialSpud


    Wonder if it has a smooth enough bore for ethernet cables? And can handle some bends over a 50 meter run?



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,539 ✭✭✭The Continental Op


    Bring the ESB conduit to the surface then use a grommet in the end of the pipe to reduce the diameter down to one that is easy for the wall. Not an easy thing to find but they do exist www.amazon.co.uk/sourcing-map-Grommet-Conical-Protect/dp/B09BR5HBXH/ but any end cap can be drilled out to take a smaller diameter pipe then siliconed in place. These might fit https://www.screwfix.ie/p/floplast-solvent-weld-access-plug-white-50mm/72586

    Wake me up when it's all over.



  • Registered Users Posts: 216 ✭✭SocialSpud


    Great thanks, I wonder if that will cause any issues if changing the cables out in the future? As in will they still be easy to pull through.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,539 ✭✭✭The Continental Op


    If you are laying that 50mm pipe "naturally" (ie in one piece not forcing any bends) and leave a string in it for pulling then you have as good chance as any. The angle you have to pull from at the ends also makes a difference so try to allow for that, what I mean is don't spoil your chances by having a right angle 300mm down just below that window sweep the pipe up from lower down up to the surface or near to it.

    btw those end caps have a screw, forget that just screw that cap on and use the body as a push fit over the end of the ESB pipe. I've done that but without having one in my hand here can't guarantee that. I'm fairly sure there are other kitchen drain pipe fittings that can be used on the ends.

    What I would do is run the 50mm pipe into a gully made up of blocks cemented in place then insure when you slab over it you have one slab that you can lift that acts as an access cover. From inside that gully you can neck down to whatever size suits to go up the wall and have access later by lifting a single slab. You can point up the slab as hopefully you'll never need to lift it but if you do you know its an easier job than lifting more than one slab then digging the ground up and you'll have good access to the end of the pipe for pulling another cable.

    Wake me up when it's all over.



  • Registered Users Posts: 400 ✭✭irishbuzz


    Can you install an access chamber just before the entry point? You could have the ESB duct enter there and then a smaller more manageable duct chased through the wall?

    If you include a chamber then you can use that as a point from which to pull new cable through your 50mm duct? For the remaining distance, you can either use the original cable to pull or probably even push the cable through given it is a short near direct span.



  • Registered Users Posts: 400 ✭✭irishbuzz


    Bah. I see now that a granite step is going here. Would definitely ruin the look.



  • Registered Users Posts: 216 ✭✭SocialSpud


    Thanks. Do I attach the rubber grommet onto the ESB conduit or the end cap? Sorry for the basic questions, very new to all this.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,539 ✭✭✭The Continental Op


    You were worried about water getting in hence my grommet suggestion. You might as well seal the ends of the pipe so find something that fits. I just suggested a couple of things that came to mind you don't need ether. If you run the 50mm pipe into a some form of access chamber under a slab then you can just fill the end with silicon/mastic of some kind. Even if you never intend to lift the slab again you can run the 50mm pipe into a plastic box and a smaller diameter pipe out up the wall.

    Anyway knew I'd seen something online in the past that might help. Some good info here https://www.eir.ie/opencms/export/sites/default/.content/pdf/NewDucting.pdf page 7 has a diagram which looks good to me. Note they suggest a minimum of 25mm INTERNAL diameter for a single cable.

    Edit> RE: the access chamber. Once you have gone the main distance your access chamber doesn't have to be just below the wall if there is a better location up to about 4 meters away then the pipe size can change at that point.

    Wake me up when it's all over.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 216 ✭✭SocialSpud


    Excellent thanks, the rubber grommet definitely looks like something I could benefit from here.

    If I was to use silicon to seal the end of the conduit, would that make things difficult if I wanted to change the cables in the future? I guess I'd just have to remove the silicon?

    I definitely won't be lifting up the granite slab step (hopefully 😄). The step will be completely flush with the bottom of the door frame so once it's in I'll potentially never have access again.

    Post edited by SocialSpud on


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,237 ✭✭✭blackbox


    It should be ok, but check it has a low friction inner surface before purchase. That stuff should also be in stock in your local plumbers' supply shop.



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,389 ✭✭✭1874


    Useful information on this post as was looking at installing security cameras using POE, so found this by searching. Are there specific access chambers for use for this kind of comms or electrical cables (more so it can be sealed against mice getting in and doing damage by chewing), or something that is for another purpose and be substituted for use, like a drainage chamber. It wouldnt be getting dug up by anyone else but if I had to run one cable outdoors at a right angle to another, it might be easier for me to have a chamber at the 90 degree junction.



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