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Block room vent

  • 26-11-2022 1:38pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 97 ✭✭


    I have a large kitchen that can be a little chilly, I have a 4 inch room vent to outside and I have a 6 inch hole to outside for a kitchen extractor vent!

    Both these are leaving a draft in so I was thinking of permanently filling up the 4 inch vent to try retain heat better and stop the draught!


    Anyone think this will be ok as there is already a 6 inch hole in the room for the extractor fan so fresh air is coming in through this anyway?



Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17,189 ✭✭✭✭Sleeper12


    I'm not sure on the regulations but if you have a gas boiler in the room then you might need to leave the vent.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 984 ✭✭✭Still stihl waters 3


    Put a cover on it that you can close when it's draughty



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 31,218 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    If you have any combustion appliances you must by law have a permanently open vent.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 97 ✭✭newfy


    The boiler is in a small storage space under the stairs which is connected by a door to kitchen with a fire alarm and carbon Monoxide alarm in with the boiler , there is no open vent in this room.


    Would the extractor fan whole which was put in last year and is also a permanently open hole be sufficient ?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 27,370 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    Unless you have the extractor fan running 24x7 then you need a wall vent to avoid condensation/mould/Carbon Monoxide

    Try to fit cowls to the vents to stop harsh winds from howling in.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,880 ✭✭✭MicktheMan


    Don't block vents.

    A lot of people blame their vents for excessive draughts & heat loss when in reality the draughts are caused by a lack of air tightness in not only the "problem" areas but in the rest of the house as well. This is especially prevalent in modern builds where plasterboard was used on external walls, dormer houses and timber frame houses. By understanding what is going on (basically by having an air tightness test as part of an overall heat loss survey done), you will be able to tackle the main culprits and really improve things. Blocking up vents ain't the solution and can be dangerous.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 97 ✭✭newfy


    Ok il leave the vents open, yes correct it’s a timber frame house with various sockets added, extractor fan for kitchen added, new boiler added to utility so all these perforations in the wall have opened the room to outside elements and broken air tightness(vapour barrier in places)…..all which is going to have an effect on the heat of the room!


    i was hoping the 6 inch hole I added would have sufficed for another clean air ventilation to the room that I could of blocked the original room vent at the far side of kitchen as I didn’t feel like I needed to have to large holes in the room for ventilation



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,422 ✭✭✭dathi


    no if the appliance is room sealed , ie it takes all the combustion air from outside the building an example of that would be a gas boiler that takes its air for combustion from the combined flue. then you don't need a permanent vent

    taken from part J building regulations TGDs

    1.2.1 Each appliance should be: (a) room sealed, or (b) contained in a room space or compartment which has a permanent ventilation opening.



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