New Build automation

SodiumCooled

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121158163#Comment_121158163

I'd have gone fully smart, I was originally thinking of doing fully integrated low voltage system but the cost was prohibitive and getting someone to do it a big challenge so I am doing the best I can really - electrician as I said won't wire much away from standard as he is too afraid of hassle in future but at least he is willing to work with me to some degree, most wouldn't budge of exactly standard.

As for the 45mm boxes, the house is all block work so every light switch in the house is in a block wall and the boxes are fitted already to lot of them so no way to change that on two fronts.

Nelbert

It'll be a tight fit for the modules.

If you commit to the shellys you can begin to minimise the need for multi switch wiring which reduces number of gangs.

The reason I and others are advising to keep gangs low is lived experience. Near on impossible to fit a module in to a triple switch fronted back box (the cable).

Someone suggested multiple double switches instead of a single 4 gang. I'd agree to an extent but if you can reduce 2 way wiring enough to turn the 4 gang in to a 2 or..... have a 4 gang but 2 of them are just to input in to a Shelly to fire a command across the room to the Shelly that is actually connected to the light.

SodiumCooled

Fitting the modules is a concern especially in situations where I need to fit more than one shelly in behind one switch e.g. my kitchen has 3 lighting zones and the most any shelly can control is two circuits so 2 shellys are needed to control all three circuits (which in turn are switched from 3 different locations). As mentioned earlier I may need to mix the modules I use with something like sonoff switchman in the above example where you can have a triple smart switch rather than behind the switch modules.

What I don't know is if something like the sonoff will be interoperable with standard switches on 3 or 4 way circuits e.g. install the switchman at one location and standard switches everywhere else and everything works as desired including remote control. The fact the sonoff is wired in like a standard switch tells me it should work but I am not sure.

10-10-20

Should I remind you to also invest in a good Wifi system too? One of the pox's here has been spots in the house with poor reception. A good overlapping mesh is what's needed as well as Wifi6 as it has improvements for handling a larger install-base of IOT devices. You'll also need to decide on how you want to isolate your IOT's from the main LAN, and how you want to manage the IP's.

I have my way of isolating - it's functional but it's not going to stand up to much scrutiny.

SodiumCooled

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121159097#Comment_121159097

Yes, fully agreed on planning the network out as well. I have at least 2 x CAT6 cables running to every room and will be going with Ubiquiti equipment to build out my network with all main rooms getting a ubuquiti U6 in wall from the start and can add more as needed/wanted (they aren't cheap).

Is isolating the devices from the main LAN a critical requirement?

One other comment on the shellys, I see the shelly mini devices available now which are smaller again so this may help also in some instances. Its a pity they don't just go the hole way and make switches like sonoff.

wexfordman2

I would nearly go for ceiling mount ap's give you a larger coverage area. One thing to remember about wifi, is too many AP's will degrade your network, there is a balance to be acheived.

SodiumCooled

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121160091#Comment_121160091

Thanks for the suggestion, I prefer the wall mounted myself however and it's better for airtightness to avoid the additional ceiling connections. It's already wired for it so I won't be changing now anyway. Another advantage of the the wall mounted one is you get 4 ethernet outputs from it also so it can act as both a wifi connection and a hardwired connection (behind a tv for instance).

Nelbert

This is turning in to a collective lessons learned from past smart experiences/frustrations thread

SodiumCooled

@Nelbert Encourage deeper back boxes. 35mm may seem a lot when you look at Shelly dims but you have the cable entry in the rear of the box and the rear of the actual switch fighting for that space too. Every bit of extra space is vital.

Had some brief discussion with my electrician based on feedback here - my understanding is there is nothing stopping the shelly going somewhere else other than behind a switch e.g. in the ceiling at the actual light fitting or maybe even a junction box some where between the last switch and the light one he pulled a permanent live to the location of the shelly.

Just thinking some additional options if space becomes an issue. I also ordered some shelly plus 1 PM mini relays to see how the smaller device would help - seems to need less wiring also as there is no separate L and I to be cross-wired.