10 year old 5008

Gmaximum

Hi All,

coming in search of some advice. I bought a 10 year 5008 as a second run around for the family after the turbo went on our very uneconomic 16 year old xc90.

it’s the 1.6 hdi and 2 weeks after buying it the injector in cylinder 3 went. I’m not particularly knowledgeable but it was clearly misfiring. I’ve a 3 month warranty and they replaced the injector without an issue.

Under acceleration there’s a regular sound, I can’t really describe but it’s only audible in 1st and 2 under 2500 rpm. The engine and eps lights came on after driving it about 10km, I left it over the weekend taking it out today. The sound was still there but the engine light was back off. The garage have agreed to take it back again but would anyone have any idea what the issue may be?

the car was originally an import, had a full main dealer service history in the UK until it was imported and the service book has been stamped by an indie since then.

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058238107/10-year-old-5008

Only 2 words - money pit

Irish Steve

Several possibles, and none of them easy to diagnose without a dealer level computer, ideally being operated by someone with some good PSA engine experience.

If one injector has failed, then there is a chance that the other 3 are not far behind, depending on the total distance travelled, and the quality of fuel that's been used over time, I had an injector fail a few months ago, and from experience working on the 1.6 Hdi engines, we took all 4 injectors out and had them tested by a diesel shop, and the conclusion was that 3 were not worth putting back into the vehicle, and the 4th was not as bad, probably because it was replaced 2 years ago.

The other possible is that if the garage that changed the injector recently didn't recode the computer with the details from the injector, it may not be operating at best settings, which can mean strange things happening at low revs, and that can be over fuelling or under fuelling, either are possibe if the correct code is not in the engine.

The next possible is that if the shop that did the work are not VERY familiar with PSA engines, if they did code the injector to the ECU, they may have put the information in the wrong cylinder, as PSA engines are numbered from the flywheel end, not the crankshaft end, and that's caught lots of people out over the years. If that's the case, you could now have 2 injectors running with wrong coding, and that can for sure upset things, but as for how you check that out without getting their backs up is not going to be easy, a lot will depend on how good a relationship you have with the garage, and how confident you are of their PSA experience.

Warning lights coming on and then going off again could be an indication of wrong coding as per the last paragraph, depending on how badly an injector fails, they can work well enough not to trigger warnings after they've cooled down, but without seeing the computer log information, I'd be guessing. When my injector reached fail point at 120 Kph on the M18, it went into limp mode and threw other warnings, including the ESP, and it disabled cruise control. We got it recovered off the motorway to our destination, rather than home, as that would have been an issue with the Covid rules and the like that were in force at the time.

The following morning, it ran without any apparent issue, and the warnings had reset, but given it was 3 hours from home, I didn't chance it, and it would seem to have been the right call, if for no other reason that trying to drive PSA vehicles in limp mode is not really an option, there's so little power or revs available, limp mode is really only a get you to the side of the road out of danger thing.

Hope that helps a little.

As for Money Pit, ignore that, PSA needs proper servicing, and if they get it, they tend to work, if my experience with an 11 year old high mileage Grand Picasso is anything to go by, in over 2 years, I've not had any major heartaches to wind me up.

Toyotafanboi

That's a very good post Steve.

Lots of good suggestions to check, my own gut instinct was diesel knock based on the OP.

I'vr no great experience with these but do remember one a few years back in a Volvo S40 with a bad ticking and it just needed new injector washers but not sure how popular that is or even if it was a lasting fix tbh.

Gmaximum

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118838736#Comment_118838736

Thanks Steve,

as an update I have it back with a new catalytic converter and it’s running fine. Not sure if they corrected anything else.

anyway hopefully if the other injectors are to go it happens in the next 2 months!

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118839524#Comment_118839524

OEM new, used new or aftermarket new? That last one may last only year or 2max. Now you ned to figure out why it failed or you get the same situation much earlier

Toyotafanboi

Probably the old worn injector fucked the cat. No need to worry OP.

Irish Steve

In passing, while I can't prove this, there is a case to be made on some of the PSA cars to not part fill the fuel tank with small quantities of fuel, but run it well down before refilling to close to the top, based on the fact that the system on that age of diesel uses a system that pumps a quantity of Eolys fluid into the tank based on the fact that the fuel filler cap has been opened. In theory, it should look at the level in the tank before fuelling starts, and then add the correct quantity of fluid after fuelling has completed, based on the new tank level indication, but I have no specific details of exactly how accurate that system is and some of the decisons will be based on the fuel level indicator, which is a bit of an unknown quantity in terms of how accurate it is at showing what's really in the tank. The ECU is programmed to give the driver a warning on the dash when the fluid is getting low, but that warning is NOT based on what's actually in the reservoir, it's based on distance travelled, and can be misleading.

The cars that use the Eolys system are not a DIY refill unless you have access to a garage level of diagnostic computer (I know that Snap on systems can do the reset, there may be others, and of course, it's possible using the PSA dealer software), but most cheap and cheeful OBD systems don't have the ability to reset the tank level for the additive. This is NOT the ADblue system, which is what's used on the newer PSA cars, I think they changed to Adblue in around 2013 or 2014, but I don't have the exact date.

Refilling the tank is best done on a ramp, as getting to the storage reservoir is a PAIN, undertray covers have to be removed, and pipes disconnected and reconnected after filling, and depending on the exact date of the vehicle, there are different size refills and pipe connectors, and you need the right one, which may require you to look under the vehicle to get the colour code of the connection to the tank, or speak to a PSA main dealer and give them the chassis number. Due to their location, the connectors can get covered in mud etc, which can make getting them off without breaking anything an "interesting" exercise, especially if the storage reservoir is the plastic pouch variety, as they're not strong and don't take kindly to rough handling. In about 5 years at a local garage, we did less than 10, one of which was my own vehicle, it's not a common job as such.

The refills are now available through motor factors, which helps keep the costs down, but this only need doing at high mileages, so it's not something you'll do very often, and it's possible that there is now a generic fluid that can be used in a range of vehicles that have this system, but I've not been able to absolutely confirm this, and the generic fluid is unlikely to have the specific PSA connectors, so proceed with caution, if I've had to do a PSA refill, we've tended to get the specific PSA kit from the relevant factors to avoid hassles.

PSA dealers have also reduced their price on this job, at one time, it wasn't cheap, and most independents won't touch it as they don't have the computer equipment to do the reset.

The refill solution is a brown nasty smelly liquid that if it gets on clothing or similar doesn't wash out with any degree of success, so proceed with extreme caution. There are reasonably good videos on Youtube that show how to do this job.

Another gotcha is that the computer may flag a warning about the DPF needing replacing, it does that at around 180,000 Km, and in a lot of cases, it does not need replacing, and may not even need a cleaning process carried out, but the warning is best reset to avoid aggravation, and again, that's not a DIY OBD option in most cases, a higher level of computer is needed to do it. There are a number of places around the country that now have the necessary equipment to do a clean on the DPF, and ensure that the flow afterwards is within specification, and they can also reset the computer after they've done it, so if someone tells you that the DPF has to be replaced, make sure that they're not taking the easy way out for them, replacement is rarely necessary or justified on this particular system, unless it's done a lot of short stop start journeys without regular longer runs to perform the regeneration.

As standard, there's no indication anywhere that a regeneration is in process, but it's possible to fit an LED to the system that can indicate what's going on.