Partition wall - temporary maybe

jace_da_face

Hi. I'm in the prep stage of building a partition wall. We're not sure if we will keep it. We want to try it for a while and see how it goes. So I want to try construct it in a least 'invasive' way so that it can be easily disassembled without marking any ceilings or walls. So I have come up with a floating type idea where the frame will not attach to the floor or ceiling. It will however, join to the floor and ceiling through compression, via adjustable heigh feet on the floor plate. The construction itself will be L-shaped when viewed from above, so it will not topple over. The main partition will be 3.3M x 2.6M, side partition 0.8M x 2.6M at 90 degrees.

I'm only throwing it out here as I have not found anything online about anyone doing something like this. Perhaps one of you have tried something similar or have some advice?

10-10-20

Interesting and novel. How do you account for thermal expansion and contraction, wood shrinkage and deflection in the substrates?

I'd be afraid of toppling to be honest.

DublinDilbert

You shouldn't mark the ceiling too much, that small bit of filler won't sort out. Ideally you'll be screwing into some of the joists above, but as it's L shaped it should have a good bit of stability. Just use metal studs, these will go up easy and will come down easy too. You can fix the U tracks to the ceiling and floor, then pop in your metal stud work. slab it and your done.

jace_da_face

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118611550#Comment_118611550

Will that be a bigger issue for me if the frame is suspended on feet as opposed to ceiling and floor?

GreeBo

I'd 100% just screw it to the wall and the ceiling, both are going to get marked and have to be touched up even if you are just using compression to hold them. A couple of screws will be filled in minutes.

L shaped wall could still fall "backwards" i.e. away from the leg.

jace_da_face

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118611592#Comment_118611592

Too late to go with metal studs, I have the wood bought. It's not too late for me to fix the frame the conventional way. If I decide to go with my floating idea and later decide to fix to floor/ ceiling, all my studs will be too short.

Deregos.

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058232353/partition-wall-temporary-maybe

Never heard of anyone doing anything similar, It's a good idea. You could stick a narrow strip of polyolefin underlay along the top of the frame so it doesn't mark the ceiling.

What type of adjustable feet had you planned using & where would you get them?

jace_da_face

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118612032#Comment_118612032

I thought about using a strip of carpet to protect the ceiling actually.

As for the feet:

the_pen_turner

i wouldnt trust anything just sitting there. #build the wall a snug fit and put a couple of screws in to the joists and floor.

jace_da_face

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118613262#Comment_118613262

I'm coming around to that viewpoint. If it was to be a permanent construction I wouldn't want to be worried about any movement.

jack of all

If you make up your stud frame on the floor and leave it 10mm undersize all round it's a simple thing to raise it up, pack or shim out at fixing locations (maybe 600mm centres for the fixings) and fix through studs and shims, through to the floor, walls and ceilings. The existing finishes (except for the floor) will only be marked/ damaged at the fixing/ shim locations. Far sturdier job and easy to undo after if needs be.

jace_da_face

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118615447#Comment_118615447

I like the idea of building the frame on the floor. My only concern would be the wall/ceiling/floor not being square. I suppose I could start with the outer frame, raise and see before packing it with the studs.

GreeBo

I think you are making much more work for little to no benefit, the wall, ceiling & floor are going to get marked if you are wedging a wall against them. Just build the partition as normal and fix to the ceiling and wall. You can sit the based on a strip of carpet or rubber to protect the floor, but dont even worry about screw holes in the ceiling or wall.

You could get away with just fixing to the ceiling to be honest (assuming you are fixing to joists up stairs) its a simple job to fill and touch up a ceiling and no one will ever notice.

jace_da_face

Well if I can get away without drilling the hardwood floor, that would be something at least. I think I’ll just go ahead and fasten to the ceiling and wall.

cheers all

SteelyDanJalapeno

You'd damage the ceiling more with the force needed to suspend it with friction only imo, plaster would give very easily to a lot of pressure at one point, and it won't push back against your legs so the wall will eventually fall. I'd definitely go traditional, use shims or whatever to get the Extra length

Just my 2 cents

10-10-20

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118619592#Comment_118619592

Yes, you would have to brace it against multiple joists. A stout 2x4 running diagonal to the joists would do it (akin to how a acrow-prop would be installed).

jace_da_face

So I have the frame complete and plaster boards fixed. It’s now time to fill in the joints. I never really realised the amount of compounds out there for walls and ceilings. I just figured it’s plaster you would use for everything. I have used Polyfilla in the past to cover in deep chases I made in block and plaster for electrical cables with no problems. I figured to use the same for tape and jointing of the tapered plasterboards. So I got some premixed filler. This time it’s the cheaper Diall multipurpose. So far I have only filled the screw fixings. I’m now doubting it suitability for the joints. Will be ok to use or should I specifically select a jointing compound.?

Deregos.

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118715555#Comment_118715555

No, that Diall stuff won't give you a smooth, tough, easy sand finish on the joints, you can get actual ready mixed joint filler in large tubs.

I personally prefer using the bags of Gyproc joint filler and mix it myself.

https://www.chadwicks.ie/all-products/building/dry-lining/plaster-bagged/gyproc-joint-filler-25kg-28215.html

the_pen_turner

bucker of joint filler will be the best. dries slower than the bag but thats probaby a good thing if you dont know what your doing.

take your time and do realy light coats. better to do 5 light coats and sand for a few min that 2 heavier coats and have to sand for hours and then recoat to fill the air holes

jack of all

This the bucket stuff you need

20220302_083316.jpg

jace_da_face

Sound advise guys. I could tell filling the screw holes with the Diall stuff, it would not go we on the joints. Gyproc it is.

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118717452#Comment_118717452

I hope I never gave the impression I knew what I was doing 🙄. So the premixed dries slower, that's good to know. Thats probably what I want.