Dealership playing fast and loose, maybe!

Banana Republic 1

Got timing belt and water pump changed at dealership. 12 hours after paying them, first drive, freezing cold air blowing into cabin at every temp, including max temp and fan speed with and without aircon, don’t run air con this time of year anyway.

Returned to garage and this is there report:

”Test drove car temp to 90 & Luke warm air. Bleaded heater rad- test drove. Bottom rad hose not heating up engine. Recommend replacing thermostat and quick flush & clean heater rad.”

job price €495, now € 300 after I pointed out a few things.

There line this is unrelated to T belt &W pump job.

€649 for T belt kit, it’s pricey yes but at VAG dealership so was ok with it

08 A4 B7 140bhp, low mileage 120K

Does anything strike you about this

Congratulation, you got another hitty job! Do not pay anything extra, because before everything works and after such a garbage. Only reasonable thing is to cover thermostat cost, nothing else. They made garbage job, they must cove that! Recently I seen too many other garages caused bad jobs. What a heck is wrong with these over paid bastards? Sure, I am too over paid but I respect the customer vehicles and take my time to finish it within acceptable time frame and quality.

Banana Republic 1

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118542252#Comment_118542252

I was thinking that too, the service advisors don’t necessarily know anything beyond what’s written down on the sheet so it is very frustrating really. What they won’t do is cover the labour that’s the long and short of it.

Del2005

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058230104/dealership-playing-fast-and-loose-maybe

Heating now working after the cooling system was worked on and it's not related!! No way should you be paying anymore and if they make you take them the to SCC, because that's a cut and dry case for the SCC.

dooroy

I presume heater was working OK before the belt and water pump were changed ?

Banana Republic 1

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118543506#Comment_118543506

Yep, like I said to your man in garage car went in fine and I expected it t come out that way 🤷‍♂️👀

donkey balls

Left my car in for a service before Xmas for a service (Main Audi dealer) Anyway was charged €475 for the initial service 3rd variable service..

They then e mailed me a list of what the car needed done, Both immediately and recommended when I totalled up the amount it came to just under €3500.Have to laugh at them saying by getting it carried out by them the car holds its value.

They advised on getting the timing belt done car had about 78000km, Adblue they wanted €40.

colm_mcm

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118548329#Comment_118548329

Jaysus! How old is the car!

donkey balls

162 AUDI Blk edition quattro me and the head of engineering/fleet maintenance were laughing at quote.

Another one seems to be a new one and not only with AUDI but BMW is brske fluid change. €90.

Banana Republic 1

I was looking at the coolant tank today and wonder was the stuff. actually changed or did they just put a tray under the car to collect the coolant as it leaked out from the water pump housing and then just pour it back in cause it doesn’t look new to me, surely TF they wouldn’t do that. The advisor did say that they never went near the coolant or radiator, at the time I thought he meant the heater rad for internal heating cause they had to move the main one and pipes to gain access for the job on Tbelt

dooroy

If they changed the WP then a lot the coolant would have escaped - I doubt they would have collected it and reused it , but maybe.

The problem with the heater was/is most likely caused by not being bled properly. I have changed many pumps over the years as a DIYer and I always make sure the heater is working and putting out heat afterwards - then I know the coolant is circulating properly and there are no airlocks.

So saying they did not go near rad or coolant does not make any sense.

Markus Antonius

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058230104/dealership-playing-fast-and-loose-maybe

Where could one find one of these "VAG dealerships"? Asking for a freind. 😋

Stories like this make me more adamant to tackle repairs myself.

Banana Republic 1

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118548837#Comment_118548837

Well it says on the invoice they put new coolant in and test drove the car. Test drove the car, there was less diesel in it alright but I should have written down the mileage before leaving it in but I didn’t of coarse so I dont really know how far they went. But I do know the only bleed tge cabin rad after I complained cause I can now see coolant just around the firewall hoses and also the clips are showing up without paint.

I remember the phone conversation that first morning I asked was there a danger of the car overheating and the advisor said well if it’s overheating the temp warning light will come on 🙄 they never said check the coolant level just in case before driving again or didn’t ask did I check beforehand.

Problem with this dealer in particular is the service advisors don’t know what their talking about in the main and the get away with that because the majority of their customers don’t know how their cars work. I mean what they essentially told me was ya we changed the headlight bulb and broke the headlight, a new headlight is €500 and shur these things happen.

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118548886#Comment_118548886

That advisor was honestly stupid. The coolant temperature sensor can register only coolant, not the steam or air pocket temperature.

Anyway, do not pay anything extra (except the thermostat), because before everything works and they did not made job properly. I hate how they just guessing and you need to pay for that swapnostics. That is why there is exact procedures how to do specific job and all that information is provided to dealer by manufacturer. Too proud to read?

Do you know your car engine code? I try to find the exact procedure

Fill coolant reservoir of cooling system filler unit VAS 6096 with pre-mixed coolant with correct mixture ratio:

G12+ (40%) and water (60%) for frost protection to -25 °C

G12+ (50%) and water (50%) for frost protection to -35 °C

G12+ (60%) and water (40%) for frost protection to -40 °C

Install adapter V.A.G 1274/8 on expansion tank.

Assemble cooling system charge unit VAS 6096 on adapter V.A.G 1274/8.

Place air outlet hose - 1 - into a small container - 2 -. (A small amount of coolant is drawn off which

should be reserved with discharged air.)

Close both valves - A - and - B - (lever perpendicular to direction of flow).

Connect hose - 3 - to pressurized air.

Pressure: 6 to 10 bar pressure

Open valve - B - (lever in direction of flow).

A vacuum is created in cooling system by suction jet pump.

Needle on instrument display must travel into green region.

Briefly open valve - A - (lever in direction of flow), so that the hose of cooling system filler unit VAS

6096 is filled with coolant.

Close valve - A - again.

Let valve - B - remain open another 2 minutes.

A further vacuum is created in cooling system by suction jet pump.

Needle on instrument display must still remain in green region.

Close valve - B -.

Needle in display instrument must remain in green region, then sufficient vacuum in cooling system is

obtained for upcoming filling.

If needle stands below green region, repeat procedure

If vacuum decreases, cooling system is leaking

Disconnect pressurized air hose.

Open valve - A -.

The vacuum in cooling system causes coolant to be extracted from cooling system filler unit VAS 6096 ;

cooling system is filled.

Detach cooling system filler unit VAS 6096 from coolant expansion tank.

Connect adapter for cooling system tester V.A.G 1274/10 to adapter V.A.G 1274/8.

Loosen coolant hose to heater core and pull back hose sufficiently so that the bleeder hole - arrow - is no

longer sealed by the connection.

Fill up coolant until it escapes from coolant hose bleeder hole without bubbles.

Push coolant hose onto connection and secure it with spring-type clamp.

If present, switch on auxiliary heater for about 30 seconds.

Twist cap for expansion tank closed.

Start engine.

Set heating air conditioning system to "HI" on both sides.

Let engine run at 2000 RPM for 3 minutes.

Let engine run at idle long enough until both large coolant hoses on main cooler are warm.

Let engine run at 2000 RPM for 1 minute.

Turn off engine and allow it to cool off.

Check coolant level.

With cold engine, coolant level must be at MAX marking.

Coolant level may be above MAX marking with engine at operating temperature.

Banana Republic 1

Is there a bleeder valve in my coolant line somewhere, there is air in the system, can hear sloshing from radiatior core, cabin.

Loosen coolant hose, pull it back and it reveals the bleeding hole