Fitting insulation in attic - outside rafter is damp

CarPark2

Hi all,

Total amateur here, so i may not even be using the right terminology below.

Moved into house a few years ago and every bit of DIY seems to throw up an unexpected issue with the house :(

I am trying to fit insulation in the attic. It is a low roof, so an awkward space in which to work.

At the edge, I see this:

As far as i can figure out, there is a steel beam sitting over the windows below, and supported by another steel beam at the corner of the windows. That is covered in the same cladding as the window frames, so it looks like a corner window that is supported with a cantilever. I am guessing that it is the steel beam that i can see in #1 above.

The outside rafter (#2 in the photo above) is damp. I checked the gutter on the outside, and it is not overflowing at the moment. We are in Wexford and had a huge amount of rain on Christmas day (about 60mm - equivalent to 2 weeks worth in one day).

I have a few questions:

A. Do i need to be worried about the rafter? If so, what kind of person could look at this for me? Is it likely to be a problem with the Fascia on the outside? It is a really awkward space to work in, so would it be better to get the fascia taken off and work from the outside?

B. In the meantime, do i need to pause the insulation? It doesn't seem to make sense to push insulation up against a damp rafter, as it would impede the drying.

C. When i get the rafter sorted, do i fill the gaps in #1 and #2 above completely with insulation, i.e., push the insulation all the way up against the rafter (once dry) and fill in the hole at #1?

I'm a bit lost here, so would appreciate any advice.

Some more close-up photos:

#1

#2

C. Eastwood

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058224663/fitting-insulation-in-attic-outside-rafter-is-damp

CarPark2. I attach an enlargement of one of your photos for terminology.

565912FC-F384-4CA8-8696-60C95BD5780A.jpeg

On the right is a large timber at an angle. This is a Rafter. It is part of a Trussed Rafter. There is a horizontal timber attached to this with a silver metal nailplate, this is the Ceiling Joists. The timber which this is being supported on below the steel plate is a Wall Plate and is holding up the roof.

The timber fixed on to the end of the Rafter (middle of the photo) is a timber bearer, which is the backing support for the Fascia Board and Gutters. This is on the photo below-

4937E0D1-E6DF-4FE4-B734-6CCE62606973.jpeg

If you look at the top edge of the rafter you can see discolouration which is caused by surface condensation which forms on the underside of the black roofing felt.

The soffit Timber Bearer is saturated again by condensation.

To answer your questions

A.

1. No need to worry about this
2. You need th retain a Registered or Chartered Building Surveyor.
3. You do not need to do anything to either the Gutters or Fascia or timber bearer.
4. When you stop moisture from the house in to the Attic and provide ventilation in the attic / All the roof timbers will dry out.

B

1. Pause the insulation.

C

1. When the problem is sorted completely, yes you can insulate the Attic by applying 300 mm wool insulation on top of the ceiling plasterboard slabs.

You said that you moved in to the house a few years ago.

Did you get a Structural Survey carried out on the house before you purchased it.

If you did:-

When was the house built ?

What is the construction of the external Wall. ?

Did it highlight lack of ventilation in the Attic. ?

You have a severe problem of Surface Condensation in your attic. The main cause of this is Lack of Through Ventilation in the Attic.

The amount of condensation in the Attic is increased by moist air escaping from the house in to the Attic Through gaps and holes in the ceiling.

In some attics steam escapes from the Feed & Expansion Tank pipes which increases condensation in the attic.

I have given all the details here in the last few days of (1) sealing gaps in the Attic and (2) Insulating the Attic in the following:-

Should I Go For Single Room Heat Recovery Ventilation -

please read this

You should get advice from a Building Surveyor before doing anything else

I have a reservation about the construction shown in one of your photos and I will reply to this soon

C. Eastwood

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058224663/fitting-insulation-in-attic-outside-rafter-is-damp

CarPark2. I thought I knew all types of construction.

I cannot make out what is going on in this photo

914168FF-2078-4DC6-B704-4E938A583A50.jpeg

1. It appears we are looking down in to a vented Cavity in the external Wall.
2. A small part of the upper side of the ceiling slab is seen.
3. The top edge of the inner wall plasterslab can be seen ( approx 12 mm thick.
4. The inner face of this slab can be seen in the cavity
5. There is a cavity behind this wall slab.

Can you confirm if this correct?

If it is correct then you have heat from the house flowing at a fast rate in through the slab and vented in to the attic ventilation which constitutes substantial Heat Loss.

The U value of this slab is approx 2.1 Watts/m2/degreeC/hr.

The U value of this should only be about 1/10 of this heat loss.

Again you should retain a mature Registered/Chartered Building Survey these problems and prescribe a remedy to sort out the problem. This person, whom you must pay, will give you an unbiased opinion. Do not accept advice from a person selling something

10-10-20

I'm not convinced that the moisture there is derived fully from condensation. I see some tell-tales which imply that it might be a leak from the roof tiles or perhaps wind-blown and possibly pooling on the upper side of the dark-brown soffit-board. The other reason I say that is because if this was solely a condensation problem, then I'd expect that the full surface-area of the felt/membrane roof would be damp and the problem would be unlikely to be so localised to an external bearer.

OP are the remaining rafter-ends and bearers also in this same state or is this localised at this point? Do you have condensation or light-grey staining at other points around the middle of the rafters?

But just as per C. Eastwood's second post, I see oddity in that detail too - it appears to be an incomplete portion of insulation, but I can definitely see the edge of some pink glasswool in that void under the support beam, but above the window. It looks like it needs to be back-filled for sure.

OP, can you tell us what room is below this point in the house and whether there was original insulation in place at all? It would be unusual not to have any insulation on the ceiling at all...

CarPark2

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118384691#Comment_118384691

@C. Eastwood

Thanks very much for your detailed posts. The terminology is particularly helpful.

To answer your questions, i had an engineer's report done before we bought the house and since then I had a heat-loss survey conducted.

The house is described in these reports as:

2005/6 built detached 2 story dormer house, with pitched cold roof. The external walls are timber frame (structural) walls with an outer skin of blockwork separated with a ventilation cavity.

1. It appears we are looking down in to a vented Cavity in the external Wall. This is also my understanding.
2. A small part of the upper side of the ceiling slab is seen. Correct.
3. The top edge of the inner wall plasterslab can be seen ( approx 12 mm thick. Correct.
4. The inner face of this slab can be seen in the cavity Correct
5. There is a cavity behind this wall slab. Correct

As @10-10-20 noted, there is some insulation here. In the picture below, board A is above board B. Then there is a gap between board B and board C. Under board B is rockwool (or something similar). I have circled a bit of it that is poking out.

From other work i have done on the house, i know that air tightness and insulation were not a major priority in the building of it. We redecorated a room last year and when i took off the skirting board, there were lots of holes in the internal plaster board that opened into the cavity. The cavity is vented on the outside, so the room basically had holes going to the outside. The heat loss survey also backed this up.

CarPark2

The house is a dormer bungalow. I haven't noticed any issues in the main attic (i.e., above the bedrooms in the dormer).

This attic is above a sunroom type construction. The sunroom is shown in red in the floor plans below. The reason i have drawn it in red is that it wasn't in the plans that were submitted for planning. So it seems to have been an afterthought. I think that it was built at the same time as the rest of the house, but it seems like it was an addition that they made mid-way through building. For example, there is a downpipe from an en-suite bathroom in the corner of the sunroom (covered by a wooden panel!), and i presume that in the original plans that downpipe would have been on the outside.

So the roof of the sunroom is a hip-roof at right angles to the main roof as you can kind of see in the photo below.

But it is as if they had the main roof half-built before they added this. In the bedroom upstairs, there is a hatch into the eaves. This has insulation between the rafters. When i pulled out that insulation to fit it better, there was felt behind it, but between one of the sets of rafters the felt was cut, and when i looked through i saw the attic above the sunroom. This makes another problem. The access to the attic is a hole about 13 inches wide and 2-3 foot long. I'm not obese, but it is a nightmare to get into it! Below is the hole in the felt from the eaves of the upstairs bedroom:

and below here is the attic as seen through the hole:

Which brings me to another problem: i don't know if an engineer would be willing to work in this kind of place. I would need to check his/her waistline before hiring him/her!

I have to go, but will post this for now in case i lose it and add more later.

10-10-20

That triple-load of washing would be a significant source of moisture...

CarPark2

So possibility 1 is that it is condensation.

1. There are four downlights in the room, leading up to this attic area. They would be a source of heat and moisture escaping from the sunroom to the attic.
2. There is insulation above the ceiling slabs, but it was laid across (at right angles to) the joists, instead of between the joists. So, it goes above the joists, and in-between the joists, it dips into the space, but there are obviously gaps. Also, there is no insulation around the downlights.
3. There are 3 clothes horses in the downstairs room (as spotted by @10-10-20). However, the downstairs room has a lot of draughts and there isn't a single bit of mildew or any sign of dampness on the walls, windows etc. So while it could be a factor, my feeling is that the room downstairs is so well ventilated that it is not the major factor.

Possibility 2 is that it is some sort of localised water ingress from outside.

1. I checked today. The timber bearer is dryer than it was yesterday (but still a bit damp).
2. The timber bearer and the piece of the rafter that meets the bearer are damp, but all of the rest of the wood in the attic feels completely dry to the touch. The timber bearer is only wet in a certain part. Another part of it feels fully dry.
3. There are lots of vents in the soffit leading into the attic, and i can feel a bit of breeze there.
4. We had really, really heavy rain on Christmas Day. So it could be that it was so heavy that it led to some of the water coming in.

Maybe I am totally wrong, but i have the feeling that if i ask an engineer/surveyor to look at it, they will not go through that tiny gap to get to the attic, and they will definitely not crawl on their stomach across rockwool (as i had to do) to get out as far as the damp timber bearer.

So if it is condensation then i guess i really need an engineer/surveyor to come look at it.

If it is water ingress, then i guess it is a roofing person, or is it more likely the fascia?

If i was to monitor it for the next week or so, and if the timber bearer gets dryer every day, then does that mean it is a leak rather than condensation?

Costel 2022

CarPark2, rewarding the issue with the damp fascia board, please see below:

1 I believe you removed some of the insulation to be able to investigate the problem. Make sure the air vents in the PVC fascia are not blocked with insulation. This is to keep the roof structure dry in the winter, as hot air rises from the room below, and turns to water droplets when hitting the cold rafters.

2 When you were in the attic did you noticed any condensation on the roof , fibreglass? I don't expect any, as I could see in one of the photos air vents in the soffit, and you already have insulation at ceiling level.

3 if you have condensation in the attic, pull back the insulation that is blocking the air vents. Second, make sure the insulation goes all the way to the wall plate(over the cavity,) so you don't end up with a cold spot. Also be very careful to leave at least 50 mm air gap between the top of the fibreglass and the felt membrane ( THE MEMBRANE UNDER THE TILES)

4 Also check for water marks on the rafters, as if the tiles/ ridge tiles are damaged, water can run down the rafter from the top of the roof, and it will stop where it hits an obstacle, the fascia board. If the felt is not damaged, water can travel above it, without showing any signs on the rafters, and if the felt is not done right into the gutter, water will end up on the timber soffit as per your photo.

5. My guess is that either the valley is leaking somewhere, or even better, with the huge amount of water the rain water just goes over the lead valley. I suggest repointing the sand and cement on the valley. With the water marks on the fascia, the roof is leaking for some time. I believe a roofer can fix this. All the work can be done from the outside.

6 Once the leak is sorted, to get the Insulation done right, fit 100 mm between the rafters, 200 mm at 90 degrees to the rafters. Insulate the water tank and pipes, as if there is no heat lost into the attic, or very little, if the temperature drops below 0 degrees the water pipes can freeze and split. I'm in Dublin, and last year I was working in 1 House and 1 apartment that was flooded. Don't take that chance. Also, depending on your access door into the attic, screw fix rigid insulation on the lid, fit a door stop around the frame, and fit a draft tape around the perimeter to seal the door when it's closed. Shower and cooker cables should be left on top of the insulation. If you have spot lights you should put covers over them so the insulation is not sitting on them.

Not to loose the U-value on the insulation, you can't compress it, so don't store anything on top of the fibreglass. You can use the attic for storage if you add 5x2 timber at a right angle to the ceiling joists, have the 200 mm insulation in between and then screw fix 18 OSB on top . I suggest using this system to create a walkway from the access door to the water tank. It will be great to see what you are walking on in an emergency to the water tank.

Hope you get it sorted. All the best. Costel

10-10-20

Hey, snap! I have exactly the same facia and soffit boards as well as vents, just my gutter differs as it's an unusual shape. Archer is the brand and I was just told today that the importer for this is "JG Kelly" in Dublin 12.

20211230_142520.jpg

I have to agree with Costel, I think that your issue is between the tiles and the gutter and I'd wonder if this is just wind driven, or perhaps the tiles being just short of the required distance. Can you see if the bottom of the tiles almost sit into the gutter? Any exposed bearer board visible?

C. Eastwood

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118388496#Comment_118388496

CarPark2.

There are a few issues here.

I have a reservation another visible cavity in the first photos above where you circles it as Nr 1.

This should not be there heat loss is occurring out through the internal wall slab. You should get a Building Surveyor to look at this and prescribe a remedy solution.

It is probably caused by incompetent construction by the person who constructed it and also by the builder and Certifier.

The roof is supported on a timber frame inner leaf of the external wall. A timber frame structure must be constructed in an approved and certified factory. No problem there. See photo.

77C9DC85-0549-42EA-9395-275B17AC86D5.jpeg

On the inner face of a timber frame wall is a Vapour Barrier which is slabbed over. It is very important that this vapour barrier is not damaged in any way whatsoever, otherwise moisture from the house may enter the timber frame wall and cause interstitial condensation inside in the insulation.

Therefore, some builders fix 44 x 44 battens on to the timber frame studs over this Vapour Barrier. See photo

CC0AE61A-0B6D-4056-AFEC-9742BBFB5B1C.jpeg

The olive green membrane with orange dots and Irish Eco Homes written on it is the Vapour Barrier. You can see the 44 x 44 timber battens fixed on to the inner face of the wall over the Vapour Barrier and the inner plasterboard slab is fixed on to the 44 x 44 battens. This creates a service duct for electrical wires and plumbing pipes and heating pipes so that there are no holes whatsoever in the VB, otherwise these services would need to be in the timber frame structure and holes would have to be cut in the Vapour Barrier to allow the services in and out of same.

There is no need to fit any insulation in this 44 mm services duct. But as you can see in the photo - there is a horizontal 44x44 batten fixed to the sole plate of the timber frame wall to support the slab and skirting boards, and the 44 x44 vertical battens to support the plasterboard slabs at 400 centres. There should also be a horizontal 44 x44 batten fixed to the head of the timberframe wall - to support the top edge of the plasterboard and seal the service duct cavity at the wall plate level to prevent heat loss through the plasterboard slab.

Unfortunately the construction industry is full it totally incompetent Plonkers.

The next issue- it is not possible for any rainwater to enter through your PVC Fascia or Soffit or PVC Gutters and enter in to the Eaves where you have shown the Dampness in your first photo above.

You said that the house was built in 2005/6 and that you had an engineer carry out a Structural Survey of the House before purchasing.

The engineer from the ground will look at the ridge tiles and joints and tiles or slates of the roof to see defects, which can be further investigated with a pair of binoculars and or zooming in to digital photos. The engineer should have seen any defects in the roof covering.

The roof is approx 16 years old - there should be no defects in a slated or tiled roof of this age.

So what could be the problem here. The roofing underlay membrane is fitted incorrectly. Approx 90% of the Craftspersons, Builders and Certifiers do not know the correct specification for fitting this membrane.

This membrane is a secondary roof membrane to catch any rainwater that will blow between the non air-tight and non weather proof tiles or slates in severe windy wet weather. Also the slates or tiles may not be fixed in place with the correct overlap.

The Specification for laying this membrane is that -“it must be fitted well sagged between the rafters”.

In other words it must Not be laid Taut between the rafters the way it is in your roof.

When it is laid correctly it will form gutters between the rafters, and this will also allow any rainwater to flow under the slating battens above the membrane.

Furthermore there should be a Tilting Fillet fitted at the back to the fascia board-see photo

51BFDAA2-5679-422C-AC32-91B63511214D.jpeg

This Tilting Fillet allows any rainwater on the the roofing underlay to escape in to the gutters. Many builders do not fit this Tilting Fillet and therefore the membrane will sag down and form a gutter behind the fascia board. The roofers walking up and down the roof cause holes in this gutter and therefore any rainwater blown in by strong winds between the tiles/slates will run down the roofing underlay membrane, down in to the formed gutter behind the fascia, and down through the holes in same and in to the eaves as seen in your first photo above because there is no Tilting fillet in your roof.

You need to monitor this in strong wet windy conditions to ascertain if this is the cause of the water in the Eaves.

CarPark2

On the inner face of a timber frame wall is a Vapour Barrier which is slabbed over. It is very important that this vapour barrier is not damaged in any way whatsoever, otherwise moisture from the house may enter the timber frame wall and cause interstitial condensation inside in the insulation.

I am not sure that our house is constructed in that way.

When i removed the skirting board, there were holes in the plasterboard. There was a breeze coming through the holes. Also, i can feel air coming through the electrical socket. That indicates to me that there is no air tightness membrane. There are air vents on the outside of the house. My understanding is that they are there to allow air to circulate around the timber frame, and that any moisture that comes from the house will also escape through those air vents. Is that possible? Is there another type of timber frame model other than the one you describe?

C. Eastwood

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118408150#Comment_118408150

CarPark2.

Yes the cavity in a Timberframe external wall must be Vented. These vents are fitted in the Brick / Plastered block outer leaf. Vents are fitted at both the bottom of the wall and also at the Top. See photos

67D2A6D2-6821-4862-B4AD-035BAE5C2352.jpeg

B8069E1F-32C7-44CA-B7C0-617BC84F0C71.jpeg

8A3F10E8-4663-4939-8F85-65824C62B63A.jpeg

Warm air will pass out through the timberframe and in to the cavity. This warm air will rise up in the cavity and flow out through the top vents, causing convecting currents, which will suck fresh air in through the lower vents. This ventilation is very important and will prevent rot in the timberframe.

More later

dathi

CarPark2.

There are a few issues here.

I have a reservation another visible cavity in the first photos above where you circles it as Nr 1.

This should not be there heat loss is occurring out through the internal wall slab. You should get a Building Surveyor to look at this and prescribe a remedy solution.

It is probably caused by incompetent construction by the person who constructed it and also by the builder and Certifier.

The roof is supported on a timber frame inner leaf of the external wall. A timber frame structure must be constructed in an approved and certified factory. No problem there. See photo.

in this case the roof is not supported by a timber frame wall , as it is a sunroom the photos show it is supported by an rsj and as mentioned in first post by a column in the corners. after the steel was erected the gap between the bottom of rsj and top of window was framed out with timber cut on site. this was clad on the outside with the second layer of fascia as shown in the photos of the exterior, and on the interior they have nailed a piece of timber aprox 40mm thick to this framing, then they covered it with plasterboard. this was done to keep the wall at the head of the window in line with the stub walls under the window. this has resulted in having a cavity as shown in photos opening into the attic. there appears to be some insulation in the framing as shown in photo no3 but it is difficult to see how much is there, and it still leaves a gap in your insulation layer which needs attention. however all of wet timber shown in the photos show the damage isolated to the timber directly behind the fascia this would indicate that there is a problem with the roof as mentioned by other posters a day time photo of the roof and in particular the bottom of the valley where it joins the two roof would help as it is difficult to see in dark photo

CarPark2

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118412912#Comment_118412912

Yes, i have the vents top and bottom - see here. But there is a strong draught (at times) on the inside of the wall (i.e., in the rooms, coming from any gaps or holes in the plasterboard, so i don't think that there is an airtight separation between the two sides.

CarPark2

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118415611#Comment_118415611

Thanks. That seems like an accurate description.

I went to investigate. A few things jumped out at me:

1. This area of the fascia was damaged in a storm last year and was fixed. I thought they did a good job at the time, but it looks like either the parts have moved, or the silicone has degraded, because there seem to be gaps where the pieces join.

CarPark2

CarPark2

(boards keeps deleting half of my post, so i am breaking it up here).

The roof-felt is visible coming out under the slates for most of the roof, but near to the gulley between the two roofs, it disappears (see photo below). I moved my finger along it, and the extra length was there, but near the gulley, it seemed to be folded back on itself. So i pulled it out and now it is visible emerging from under the slates as far as the lead flashing.

CarPark2

For completeness, i post the gulley itself. It seems OK to my untrained eye....

Any thoughts?

dathi

in your last photo there seems to be a step in the valley which allows water to pool if you follow the dark stain on the lead it appears to show water is flowing to edge of slate on right, if it is getting under this slate in high winds the water can travel along the top of the membrane until it finds a tear or hole in membrane and then wet the fascia board on the left of the photo the lead appears to have been left short and is not dressed down onto the fascia.

CarPark2

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118420268#Comment_118420268

Thanks. I'll take a look at that.

C. Eastwood

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118408150#Comment_118408150

CarPark2

Above you mentioned draughts coming out of Electrical Sockets.

daithi, mention above -“It is probably caused by incompetent construction by the person who constructed it and also by the builder and Certifier.”

I totally agree daithi.

I have witnessed unbelievable incompetent construction over the years with Timberframe construction.

See the attached photo of a typical Timberframe wall inside a brick outer wall. I understand that your outside wall is plaster block work. Same thing.

B2B6F4E5-4CA1-4B21-9CB9-864DF0CDF1C0.jpeg

In the photo there is a plasterslab fixed over a sheet of transparent polythene which is the Vapour Barrier and must always be on the warm side of the insulation.

Insulation is fixed between the timber studs and plywood is fixed on to the outer face of the timber studs. This plywood is for the structural stability of the timber frame which is supporting the roof.

Outside the plywood and fixed on to the plywood is a waterproof breather membrane. This is to allow moisture within the timber frame to evaporate in to the vented cavity.

If there was no Vapour Barrier- then the plywood would prevent draughts from getting in to the timberframe.

Therefore if the Vapour Barrier in your wall was damaged, then the draughts are not coming in from the cavity - it is not possible.

I have mentioned above that the Vapour Barrier must not be damaged or it may allow vapour/ moisture from within the house to pass in to the Insulation and could cause Interstitial Condensation within the insulation.

The next photo which I’ve included previously - see photo

F22FA72D-E25B-44C7-8272-FD26E6BCB18E.jpeg

Here the Vapour Barrier is olive green. They have the inner plasterboard slabs fixed on 44 x 44 timber battens which are nailed on to the timberframe vertical studs, and this is to create a services duct for electrical wires and plumbing pipes. You can see a hole cut to take a double socket box in the plasterboard slab

You can also see a horizontal 44 x 44 batten fixed to the Sole plate (bottom timber of the timberframe). This is to support the bottom edge of the slab and also the skirting boards and also to seal the services duct.

There should also have been a horizontal 44 x 44 batten fixed to the head piece of the timberframe, to support the top of the plasterboard slab and also to seal the cavity and prevent draughts from the ventilated attic from getting in to the services duct behind the plasterboard slab.

Looking at your photo here where I added some notes. -

FBFE81EE-DA98-445E-9377-E2DDCF84C2D2.jpeg

This photo shows an open cavity and the vertical plasterboard of the internal face of the external wall.

My advice is to fill this cavity with fibreglass insulation, pushed down in to the cavity.

Then cover and seal the cavity with a piece of 12 mm plasterboard slab and plenty of silicone mastic- to eliminate draughts. See photo

A559B07F-E2F7-49CF-9C2E-04E746D26E05.jpeg

I have drawn in the slab to close the cavity in this photo with a red line.

A slab is easy to cut and adjust.

When you seal the cavity then this should stop the draughts from the electrical sockets.

CarPark2

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118421822#Comment_118421822

Thanks very much. This is very comprehensive and i really appreciate you taking the time to write in such detail.

Here is what i do know:

You can also see a horizontal 44 x 44 batten fixed to the Sole plate (bottom timber of the timberframe). This is to support the bottom edge of the slab and also the skirting boards and also to seal the services duct.

This is definitely not there. For fitting skirting boards, i either have to try to find the vertical timber battens or use glue.

I have a section of wall, underneath a window. It has a double socket in it. There is a strong draught from that socket.

As it is underneath the window frame, there is no connection to the attic, so the wind is not getting in through the attic.

In that case, how is the wind getting in, if the plywood blocks any wind from getting directly from outside to inside?

iColdFusion

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118425327#Comment_118425327

This is a very interesting thread, thanks to all who are contributing!

On this one I'd assume your draughts are coming through the electrical conduits which are open into the attic, standard enough to seal these up in new houses to guarantee air tightness.

iColdFusion

C. Eastwood

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118425327#Comment_118425327

Thanks CarPark2 for kind words.

With all the advice hopefully you will solve your problems.

C Eastwood

C. Eastwood

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118425591#Comment_118425591

Thanks iColdFusion

C Eastwood