2021/2022 winter season thread

maddness

Seeing as there is nothing about this coming winter season I thought I’d start.

The current conditions in the alps are epic with some of the heaviest snow on record in December. I’ll be in Courchevel on Wednesday for a few days and will post about the whole experience including the ease or difficulty of skiing with masks and the various restrictions in place.

Anyone else going soon?

kal7

Looking forward to report on french conditions and regulations etc. Enjoy the new snow.

DoraDelite

Going Friday week to Chamonix, looking forward to it even with the extra paper work! The snow conditions look to be the best I've seen for years at Christmas/New year so it'll make a change from scrapping down ice for the week.

Rew

Going next month 🤞

a148pro

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058222629/2021-2022-winter-season-thread

Just back from Andorra which also had absurd snow, ex Barcelona. Toulouse also viable.

No requirement for a test to land in Spain if you are vaccinated (as of last week anyway)

Masks requested even in / on outdoor chairlifts. Ski buffs acceptable.

Covid passes required in bars and restaurants and I think to buy the lift pass (although I wasn't checked), though you can get one with a negative antigen test (I think). Bars closed at midnight and operating at half capacity due to rising cases. Seems to be observed (have the sense Andorra is a small State and people don't F around, particularly if you might be putting the ski season in jeopardy by doing it)

The main rigmarole is the testing to come back home. If going for a short break (i.e., two days skiing) you can probably travel on a 72 hour PCR taken in Dublin Airport on the way out. However, you're unlikely to know you've passed this before you fly, which isn't ideal!

Otherwise I think most European pharmacies are doing antigen tests which once certified meet the regulations of a "professional" test or whatever the wording is. I paid €25 for one in the Medical Centre conveniently located in the main lift station in Soldeu. Ryanair, despite Michael O'Leary's "Gobbledigook" press release, were checking intently in Barcelona.

The risk is obviously you test positive over there. I really think we should be moving away from mandatory isolation if you're positive and just get on with it, the virus is endemic and always will be, but our media or political discourse doesn't seem to have made this leap. Suspect at least some people are "topping up" with antigen tests which will allow them a window of return should they test positive. Also not ideal but spending 14 days in a hotel because of an endemic virus isn't really sustainable.

Great to be back skiing. What was weirdest was that it was like it had never gone away. Felt the same as always.

Good luck to all travelling in coming weeks!

maddness

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118322936#Comment_118322936

How accessible is Andorra for a short break?

maddness

I’ve skied in the 3 valleys six or seven times at this time of year and I’ve never seen it so quiet.

The pistes are mostly empty and conditions are fantastic. They are checking your vaccine cert getting on to the lifts in most cases and you need to wear a mask or a snood which is absolutely fine.

The journey over through Geneva was also very easy with a less than half full flight and the baggage claim was very quiet too.

If you were thinking about going skiing and can justify it with all of the extra PCR testing et cetera I would do it.

DoraDelite

France just announced this for travelling from the UK https://www.thejournal.ie/france-travel-restrictions-5631886-Dec2021/

Hopefully they don't look at our figures and do the same.

a148pro

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118329273#Comment_118329273

That sounds amazing, but surely they're not checking vax pass at bottom of every lift every time?

Is there much open yet?

a148pro

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118329269#Comment_118329269

Very viable. Just under 3 hours from barcelona which has loads of flights, even closer to Toulouse which has less flights and even Lourdes if you can get there.

There's also a few other resorts, bacqueria is supposed to be good, there's two within 2 hours of Barcelona, marsela and something else, and more on the French side

No winter tires on rental cars mind.

Maybe it was snobbery but I didn't rate the pistes or the piste making, but hotels great value

maddness

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118334347#Comment_118334347

They are checking the passes from most of the lifts from the towns and a few higher up.

Loads open but a fair few lifts not running which is a bit annoying but like I said it’s almost empty so it’s great skiing.

a148pro

Can't get better than an empty 3vs with good pistes. Suspect it's a combo of the Brits being banned and anyone travelling now being at risk if missing Christmas if they get covid. That's enough to prevent most people going.

It's actually a great time to travel if you're willing to take that risk. My flight home from barcelona was 9 euro booked the night before. I'd say there's crazy value to be had in once in a lifetime type trips, big stuff like Galapagos, Kamkatcha.

If I knew now they'd close schools I'd be gone

blue note

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118334380#Comment_118334380

I was in Andorra in 2020, switched to there because Italy had over 200 cases and we decided not to risk it. Imagine thinking of less than 300 cases as too many now!!!

Anyway, I've only been to 2 places in Austria before and my wife a good few in Austria and also somewhwre in Italy. We found Andorra a decent step behind Austria. The lifts were slower and had far more bottlenecks. It just felt like you get less time skiing there than in Austria. I remember liking a lot of the runs. I think I preferred Austria for the runs, but it was hard to compare because conditions were so different too. The previous two years in Austria we'd had perfect conditions. Loads of snow. Then in Andorra we had April temperatures in February and had had no snow for a month. So it was icy at the start of the day, very nice for a couple of hours before lunch, then slushy. God I'd love to go back though.

a148pro

Yeah I remember your trip, honey moon I think? You were the kind of canary in the boards gold mine for covid!

Lifts out of the resort were good but there were a lot of slow chair lifts up higher alright. Mind you, you get that in a lot of places.

Dial Hard

Supposed to be heading to Trysil on Jan 2nd but getting very worried now, given the situation in Norway at the moment.

blue note

That's right, we'd booked cervinia, a ski to the door apartment, private transfers, a couple of fancy restaurants. I want to do that trip badly now! But we were actually so lucky to get the wedding and still get a few days away, even if it wasn't exactly what we'd planned. The restaurants in pas de la casa were excellent too, much better than he ones you tend to get in Austria. Although I've been to a couple I really liked in Austria too. Hotel was very basic, very small, but in a good location and clean and comfortable. For a trip we booked less than 24 hours in advance we really can't complain.

But I do remember laughing going up one particular lift, a very long one. We just couldn't believe how long we'd been on it. The thing was just crawling. But I'd only been to soll and zell am see before that and was spoilt with the lifts. Queues were never bad, certainly not compared to the lifts to get to the other side of the mountain in Andorra. And the lifts flew up by comparison. I won't be booking my next trip to Andorra if I can help it, put it hat way. Although if someone offered me a few days there tomorrow I'd bite their hand off.

We flew in through Toulouse. And got a dead hand transfer down for about 20 quid. Also worth noting, if you're flying out of Toulouse go to the good restaurant in the airport. It's actually delicious. I'd usually assume airport food to be crap and overpriced, but we probably paid about 60 quid for the meal and if I paid that in Dublin for the food we got I'd be delighted with the value.

kal7

Hi, my go to transfer company not taking 2022 bookings??

I am going from geneva airport to flaine, in grand massif.

any recommendations welcome, or even warnings of who not to use.

Party of 7

Saturday to saturday end january

maddness

Try findtransfers.com

Ive used them a lot and find them mostly very good for getting a competitive quote.

Donielad

alp2alp are pretty good if you haven't tried them yet, reasonable and reliable

Dial Hard

Heading to Trysil on Sunday and really not feeling it. Eff all snow, only 12 out of 31 lifts open, and no alcohol being served in bars or restaurants, plus I'm just not feeling enthused about travel in general at the moment, with the case numbers. Would honestly be happier to just stay at home at this point, except obviously insurance won't cover anything if we choose not to go.

maddness

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118378258#Comment_118378258

When you click in and ski down your first run it might just change the whole mood. You may be lucky and get some fresh snow too.

Any skiing is better than no skiing and we all need to get away now more than ever. Best of luck with your trip.

PCeeeee

Les Arcs at the end of Jan for me. Fingers and everything crossed.

kal7

Thanks for recommendations Maddness and Donielad.

Big differences in prices for transfers, best to get couple of quotes.

more expensive because all have to be private, no shared transfers.

Fingers crossed we can go end Jan, no change to restrictions even with high covid cases.

maddness

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118395195#Comment_118395195

I think the end of January will be fine tbh. Case numbers are nuts but less people are sick and the French are not closing their ski resorts this year.

Dial Hard

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118378557#Comment_118378557

Can confirm this was the case. The snow is actually fantastic and we got some great runs in today. Absolutely shattered now after a very long day's travel yesterday and the first day hassle of getting kitted up, etc, but looking forward to getting out nice and early tomorrow.

Happy trails, everyone who's heading off.

PCeeeee

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118397075#Comment_118397075

Yeah they're open no matter what I think, the french operators were looking at Switzerland enviously last year as the Swiss skied away no bother. I'm more converned one of us get CV19 before or during and it messed up the trip.

DoraDelite

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118316196#Comment_118316196

Well Covid got me two days before I left for this so had to cancel in the end. On the plus side that takes the stress out of the next trip, heading off on the 15th of Jan for a couple of months of ski/work.

a148pro

Unlucky Dora but definitely the right attitude, enjoy the carefree skiing to come

Rowley Birkin QC

Heading for Ponte Di Legno / Passo Tonale for 5 days in early Feb. Hopefully there isn't an outbreak of any new type of plague while I'm there. Still have memories of driving back to the airport listening to Matt Cooper naming "outbreak towns" that I was zooming past on the motorway. 😶

On topic, while there's a tonne of runs in Passo Tonale / Adamello, I'm wondering if it's worth taking a day out to go over to Madonna di Campiglio?

I'll have a car, the group will be small and capable so no worries about needing beginner runs etc. Opinions welcome 🙂

a148pro

I've never been but I'm dying to go. My only concern might be its not the kind of place you nip into for one day? Like really you should stay there as opposed to just ski?

Johnny_Fontane

Heading to Geneva on Wednesday. Looks like there may not be any fresh snow for a week or so, so wondering where people might suggest where to go.

Two advanced skiers and one advanced boarders. Plan was to head to Verbier, but we can also go Val d'isere, Avoriaz, etc. Basically where would suggest going near Geneva when there isnt amazing snow.

maddness

Val d or Val Thorens in France. La Thuile or Champoluc in Italy are good bets too as not too bad from Geneva and both have very good snow. To be honest most resorts have loads of snow at the moment, you just won’t find any fresh powder next week so will be confined to on piste.

RedB

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118476409#Comment_118476409

I’m in Breuil-Cervinia since Tuesday and have had great snow on the slopes. It’s been quiet during the week but picked up a lot today. Plenty of lifts and slopes open and lovely conditions.

Rowley Birkin QC

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118471111#Comment_118471111

Not sure I follow your question?

Will be staying in Ponte Di Legno and thinking of just driving over for a day. Not too bothered about aprés, just that some of the runs in Madonna sound pretty scenic.

this.lad

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118463346#Comment_118463346

Madonna is a great spot, well worth a visit. You can extend your lift pass I think for a day from ponte di legno, adamello ski?,

There is plenty of skiing there for a day, some excellent runs on both sides of the valley.

a148pro

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118488580#Comment_118488580

I have the sense its this really classy resort with ferraris and pop stars (Madonna perhaps?) walking around so I'd like to catch a bit of that and some fine dining either side of the skiing

Its probably a total sh*thole but I like the above thinking

skinnyfries

Anyone been to Bardonecchio?

Rew

Switzerland have dropped the PCR test requirement for entry if your vax'd, we're flying to Geneva on Thursday

this.lad

All good news, hoping Italy follow suit, the decree is due to expire on 31st January. Heading for the midterm break.

a148pro

Looks like Switzerland may drop the Covid cert in general. You can also ski on a test there.

skinnyfries

Yes I’m currently in Bardonecchio!

staying half board in Ca Fiore. Ideal location, great food. Blue skies every day.

could do with fresh snow, which is due on Monday. Great skiing and we will definitely be returning.

Some12

Hitting the slopes this year was a tough decision but I bit the bullet. Covid was/is a travel risk and now, so is the potential Ukraine conflict.

I'm heading out to Big White in Canada in a little over a week for a first-time visit. From videos I've seen, along with the trail map, Big White looks great and has a lot of praise for the dry, crisp and deep powder.

The cliff run looks to be a challenge. I hope I don't "Nope!" it when standing on the edge. I haven't dropped a double black in many years.

Anyone been there and can offer recommendations?

Ryans1993

We are flying to Geneva the beginning of March. 1st time skiing so will be looking at some beginner slopes and some good apres ski. Would anyone have any recommendations where to go from Geneva airport? We were looking at Chamonix but accommodation seems to be fairly booked up.

maddness

Don’t go to Chamonix if you are a beginner, it’s not suitable at all.

Try Morzine or Flaine, both only an hour or so from Geneva and plenty of good beginner areas.

Regarding apres, Morzine is a good town but Flaine not so much.

a148pro

The only exception to that is one of the areas in Chamonix, think its called Le Tour / Balme, is good for beginners. But the resort is too bitty for a first time trip. You want everything in the one location and Chamonix aint that. I've heard Flaine is good for families so presumably good for beginners, perhaps less for boozing! Morzine gets a lot of brits so I would think there are appropriate rehydration facilities.

Rowley Birkin QC

Just back from Ponte di Legno / Passo Tonale. Slopes were in good nick with 37/41 open throughout. It was also nicely quiet mid week and there was 3 nights of night-skiing. Good atmosphere around but no queues for lifts, food etc. The weekend was rammed busy. Lots of snow fell yesterday.

It's a really affordable (~€700 all in excluding spending money), accessible resort with a good amount and variety of runs.

a148pro

€700 for flights, accomodation, gear and lift pass or?

Rowley Birkin QC

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118637704#Comment_118637704

It was a shade over at €730 now that I go back and look at it.

EDIT: Had a mistake in the original calculation, it was actually a shade under €700 at €669 per person. The car was ridiculously cheap for what we got.

Flight was into Bergamo, car hire was a 10min shuttle from there and the drive is a v.straightforward 2 hours or so.

Details below.

Rew

Got back from Morzine Monday last week. Great weeks skiing apart form 1 day of rain in the village. Morzine is a nice spot, good mix of slopes and loads to do after skiing. We are a family with kids 8, 7 and 5. Kids did ESF in the mornings and skied with us in the evening. 5th trip for all of us together (youngest was 3 months first trip) so the older 2 kids flew arounds the pistes no problem. ESF were fine but did have to have words with the 5 year olds instructor, they can be very rough and gruff with the kids. I also had to get the 5yr shorter skis as he was visibly struggling and no one had picked it up. I'd def consider an independent school if we go back to France, found instruction the prev 2 trips in Austria better I have to say.

COVID pass was checked pretty much everywhere (including before getting on the bubble up a few times) and was combined with photo ID a few times, face coverings were required anywhere enclosed same as here.

We did 2 days either of the week in Morzine in Geneva which was great and really relaxed the pace of things (and made the flights much cheaper). Geneva is very, very expensive but got package deals on the hotels. I got hit for €50 roaming when we landed and I turned on my phone and received whatsapps that were sent while I was in there air (8.6 mb was €50!!!) so check your data plan before you go and turn off data if needed. Once in France it was fine, 20gb included.

DIY trip, cant remember what the flights were but the rest:

Private transfer Geneva<->Morzine €460

2 bedroom apartment close to lifts €770

Passes €84 each for the kids (this was a bargain as I expected them to be €165, bought via ESF), adults €240 each. Didn't bother with the full pass and got the Morzine - Les Gets one.

Lessons for the kids €156 each for 6 mornings

Gear (adults have own boots) €360 from Intersport (+€40 to store skis and boots for the week).

a148pro

Good value. I thought I was getting a bargain at about 3.5k all in for 4 days skiing in a hotel but this seems to be about average, maybe should have waited till last minute to follow the snow! Could still do DIY in Austria next week for similar price.

I've been done outrageously for the roaming twice, once in Switzerland and recently in Andorra. Both times I got on to the phone company and told them it was outrageous and I wouldn't be paying it and both times they dropped the charge so get on to them.

Some12

I'd posted earlier that I was visiting Big White in Canada this year as Covid was looking to add a lot of overhead to visiting Austria. I'm back and thought I'd check in.

In short, Big White is a fantastic resort and I’m looking forward to going back in 2023.

The snow was crisp dry powder for the full week. The temperature never rose above -4 or -3 so even the bright sun did not thaw much. We were lucky – no snow or fog days.

One of the things I really enjoyed was starting down a groomed run then veering off into the woods dodging the trees. There were a lot of opportunities to run the trees around the whole resort.

The accommodation range was top marks and good value. We had a condo right on the slopes with a hot tub on the balcony. A good end to the day was sitting in the hot tub with a bottle of champaign watching stragglers ski by – this became a daily event...

The lift pass was slightly more expensive than St Anton but we got our monies worth.

The only thing I didn’t like was that all the main food/drink places were located in the small village centre. At lunch and lift close time, the crowds headed to the village centre so the small area got very busy very fast and some places filled quick.

All in all, I’m looking forward to getting back to Big White for another week in 2023!