Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie
Hi there,
There is an issue with role permissions that is being worked on at the moment.
If you are having trouble with access or permissions on regional forums please post here to get access: https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058365403/you-do-not-have-permission-for-that#latest

Triton T90sr temperature problem

  • 11-09-2021 6:24pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 338 ✭✭


    I had a new Triton t90sr installed to replace my old Triton.

    I was disappointed with the installation as initially the temperature knob would not move fully to cold, and the power light was not connected. I still have issues and want to know if its a further installation issue or faulty shower.

    I fixed both issues but the temperature does not feel right to me.

    Before I get onto the plumber, I want to see if anyone else has this issue.

    The temperature knob can move fully to hot and cold, however the cold (7oclock position)is reading at 31degrees, that remains around 31degrees until the 1oclock position. It doest reach 41degrees until the 3 or 4 oclock position and then reaches 52degrees at 5 o clock (max position).

    This is on the highest power. eg 2

    Can anyone enlighten me as to why this is occurring? Do I have a faulty shower?

    Thanks



Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,129 ✭✭✭kirving


    Does the movement of the knob feel the same (a little resistance) the full way around the motion?

    The way the shower controls temperature is actually by increasing or decreasing the waylter flow through the heating elements.

    (And then 0,1,2 actually set one or both heating elements on/off).

    It would seem to me as though the flow control valve is not properly connected to the front knob. They did show in the manual how it should be connected before you place on the front cover, but I still think that there's a poka-yoke to prevent it from going on the wrong way.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 338 ✭✭Renno123


    Thanks for the reply.

    Yeah, very little resistance, the flow does slow down a lot at the max level.

    The plumber took the manual away, but managed to find a download version

    I removed the cover and checked the knobs were on right but all OK there.

    This was a direct replacement for the triton t90xr so would have thought temperature should be identical.

    I am concerned now as we have mild weather, but this shower will be completely usless come winter as is.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,292 ✭✭✭naughtysmurf


    If you’re comfortable enough, you have the manual, go back to the start & redo the commissioning procedure, see if that makes any difference, I have a T90SR , it’s a decent shower, I don’t know what head comes with it but I recently bought a replacement Triton 8000 series 5 spray shower head from woodies for €34.99, it’s pretty decent



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 338 ✭✭Renno123


    Thanks, can I just check that your triton doesn't act like mine?

    I think I'll get the plumber back.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,129 ✭✭✭kirving


    I'm only going off memory here as I'm not home, but there should be a bit of resistance as you turn the knob, as in more than you would feel turning a kitchen tap or light switch dimmer.

    Also replaced a T90xr with an si and it's almost identical in function.

    It sounds to me like the valve isn't working properly, but to be honest it's very difficult to tell.

    I can say though that the rotation vs temperature is not linear. It's much more sensitive at higher temperatures.

    eg: if you can move 300° in total, going from 0° to 30° is will slow the flow by 10%.

    But if you move from 240° (60° remaining) to 270° (30° remaining), it's actually a 50% difference.



  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,292 ✭✭✭naughtysmurf


    My works perfectly, I fitted it replacing an earlier triton model, no offence to plumbers but the only plumbing involved is connecting the water input ( one compression fitting) the rest can be done by anyone with reasonable competent diy skills following the installation instructions, at the end of the day it’s three wires & one pipe.

    Start by disconnecting the electricity supply, follow the commissioning process EXACTLY , especially section 7 the locking screw & section 8, to do before the fitting the cover section, the manual is pretty good / clear but if unsure or unskilled or no difference after re-commissioning call a competent plumber or sparks, the T90SR would be considered a reputable product, I’d be surprised if a new one was faulty but it sometimes happens I guess,



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,623 ✭✭✭John.G


    Set the temperature contol to whatever gives you say 41C (measure the temp) not at home now but the mains temp should be at least 12c and probably 15c or more in the cold water storage tank so you should get at least 4.5LPM flowrate, just hold a bucket under the showerhead for exactly 1 minute and measure this. (or 30 secs and double your measurement)



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17,190 ✭✭✭✭Sleeper12


    "The temperature knob can move fully to hot and cold, however the cold (7oclock position)is reading at 31degrees, that remains around 31degrees until the 1oclock position. It doest reach 41degrees until the 3 or 4 oclock position and then reaches 52degrees at 5 o clock (max position).

    This is on the highest power. eg 2"

    Sounds perfectly ok to me. This is where I'd be expecting to get these temperatures on the dial at this time of year. It really depends on the water temperature in the attic tank.


    Installer made two silly mistakes not putting the power light on the cover & not putting the cover on correctly effecting the temperature dial



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,623 ✭✭✭John.G


    Seems a little strange though that the temperature control can be moved from 7 oclock to 1 oclock without any change in flow/temperature, also I wouldn't expect to have to go to 4 oclock just now with header tank temperatures of ~ 18C (my mains temperature just now). pump/filter seems ok as calculated flow rate is 9.9 LPM @ 31C min, calc flow rate at 52C (from 18C) is 3.8 LPM which IMO is a little high as the TCO would normally operate with both elements on, also if shower on economy setting of 1 element then water would be really too cold at 35C even now so some thing no quite right IMO. My (mains fed) Mira Sport flowed 9.8 LPM & 2.8 LPM (hi/low flow) when taken out of its box in 2007. I have also seen 2.7 LPM minimum flow mentioned on one or two post on here re the T90SR.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17,190 ✭✭✭✭Sleeper12


    Each model is different. For example the mira Elite 2 & St only started getting warm around 3 o clock. On the hottest day of the year there is still plenty of give on the dial & you wouldn't need to change the power selector to one element. Mira elite qt & se gets warm between 9 and 11 o clock. It's down to the different flow valves used. These showers can spend most of the summer on one element.



  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,623 ✭✭✭John.G


    The OP would not need to change to 1 element either on the hottest day of the year as his flowrate can be as high as 9.9 LPM (by calc) but my way of thinking is that whatever power setting is requested then the shower temperature should be acceptable albeit with reduced flow on one element, within reason. To me, if my calcs are correct, then this shower even with a tank temp of 18C will only give a showering temp of 35C ( because the flowrate at 3.8LPM is too high) and this is not normal/correct. Certainly, if this is still under warranty, I would contact Triton.

    You have a Triton TR90SR yourself so you may care to measure the flowrate at minimum flowrate, be interesting to see your findings.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17,190 ✭✭✭✭Sleeper12


    The flow valves aren't exactly the same on every shower. Mine is warm at 12 o clock. If I fit 10 showers of the same model, Triton or Mira, I would expect the sweet spot to be different on almost them all. Some could be slightly different & others could be very different. You really notice this when fitting a few showers on the same day in very hot or very cold weather because you'd expect the attic water temperature to be similar in each home



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,623 ✭✭✭John.G


    Maybe wrong but to me the minimum flow rate should be "fixed" especially with a pumped shower, if not then its hit and miss as to whether I can get a adequate showering temperature on one heating element as I have no control over the minimum flow rate??, my neighbour has a newly installed T90SR and I will see what its minimum flow rate is shortly and report back.

    Just back from neighbours and they are using it on one element, temperature setting 2 oclock, the measured flow rate was 3.8 LPM and measured temperature was 35C. I then switched the power setting to cold (didn't want to trip the TCO in case it didn't reset) and turned the temperature to its max temperature setting of 5 oclock, flow rate 2.2 LPM which means the cold water temp can go to 5.5C and still give a showering temp of 35C or give a showering temp of 40C with a cold water temp of 11C. This shower is working exactly as I would have expected but the OPs most certainly, IMO, is not.

    Post edited by John.G on


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17,190 ✭✭✭✭Sleeper12


    Flow valve has to allow, let's say, 11 lpm down to 2 lpm. Where 4 lpm is on the dial isn't important so long as its there.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,623 ✭✭✭John.G


    My point is that the neighbour could, if he wished reduce the flow right down to 2.2 LPM and still get a reasonable showering temperature on one element in the debths of winter, he choose a flow rate of 3.8LPM at only 2 oclock setting to give him his preferred 35C showering temperature, if he had set it to max temp setting at 5 oclock then he would have got a showering temp of 47C at the minimum flowrate of 2.2 LPM whereas the OP has only got control down to a minimum of 3.8 LPM even with temperature control switch at 5 oclock.

    I'm well aware that you have very extensive experience of shower installation/repairs but I would be very surprised if all showers (either pumped or mains) don't /can't achieve a minimum flow rate of ~ 2.5 LPM otherwise one couldn't use the economy (1 element) setting in the winter if one so wished and still have a reasonable showering temp right down to a cold water temp of 5/6C.

    Also, the OP in winter with a cold water temperature of 5C cant achieve more than 39C showering temperature even with two elements on and temperature control on max setting (his minimum flowrate of 3.8 LPM).



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17,190 ✭✭✭✭Sleeper12


    This was a direct replacement for the triton t90xr so would have thought temperature should be identical.

    The problem here is OP believes that his 10 to 14 year old shower's flow control valve should be identical to a T90SR because the shower is "a direct replacement". While it is a direct replacement there isn't a single part inside the Triton T90XR that is the same as the Triton T90SR. I wouldn't expect it to preform in the same way at all. Even if parts were identical, 10 years of limescale would have moved the sweet spot on the dial by maybe 3 spots. In other words 40c on his old T90XR isn't in the same place as it was 10 years ago.

    I would be very surprised if all showers (either pumped or mains) don't /can't achieve a minimum flow rate of ~ 2.5 LPM otherwise one couldn't use the economy (1 element) setting in the winter if one so wished and still have a reasonable showering temp right down to a cold water temp of 5/6C.

    I think there is crossed wires here John & it could well be me. I agree with you. There are requirements that a flow control valve can reduce flow to 2.5 lpm. My point is that the 2.5 lpm isn't on the same spot on every flow control valve. It could be 5 o clock on one shower & 4 o clock on another. It's possible OPs shower is only using one element but OP hasn't been back for days.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 338 ✭✭Renno123


    Thanks for the replies and for discussing this in depth. I really appreciate it. I have booked an appointment with trition to look at it to be on the safe side.

    I have been playing around with monitoring the temperature and have noticed a change with the shower head being on and off. Did the same experiment with the mira jump shower and didn't change the temperature.

    I am getting a temperature of 4degrees lower with the shower head on. Eg. I am recording 40degrees without out shower head but at same dial records 33-34 with shower head on.

    Perhaps a new shower head would solve my issue.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,623 ✭✭✭John.G


    You would expect the 40C with the shower head on and 33/34c with it off (increased flowrate). You may have a flow valve problem but if I were you I would ensure power on high setting and adjust the temperature control to give you say ~ 40C, it doesn't really matter as you can measure it, get your bucket and measure the flow rate for exactly 30 sec (or 1 minute), this will and always does tell a lot when trouble shooting.



Advertisement