Florabest Lidl 4 in 1 multi gardening tool

chabsey

I bought one of these 5 years ago, used it a couple of times (successfully, hedge trimmer and chain saw) but it largely lay unused for the last couple of years. It's been stored indoors and out of the damp etc.

Decided to try the brush cutter and I got some 2stroke oil for it a few days ago. No matter what I try it won't start, I've checked the spark plug and cleaned it but still nothing, I did notice that despite priming the engine the plug was totally dry so maybe that's the cause. Given that it will probably cost me more to get this fixed than the unit cost me initially I now find myself with the prospect of throwing out what looks like a perfectly good machine. I am loathe to do this as I feel it has got to be something I can fix. The primer bell is slow to pop back out when depressed but I did the requisite 6 pushes, and then probably 6 more thinking it wasn't working. I thought maybe I'd flooded it and waiting before trying again, still nothing. Looked online at starting a flooded engine and tried to fire it up on full open throttle - nothing.

Any ideas or suggestions to try before I bin this thing?

blackbox

Most likely the carburetor has gummed up from being left unused with fuel in it.

It would not be hugely complicated to dismantle and clean it if you were prepared to have a go. I'm sure you'll find helpful videos on YouTube. Even different makes will have very similar carburetors.

If you're throwing it out give me a shout as I could use it for spare parts for mine!

jmreire

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058202085/florabest-lidl-4-in-1-multi-gardening-tool

Carburettor is gummed up.... always drain the fuel tank after use ( especially if its going to be idle for any length of time) then run the engine until it runs out if fuel and stops. You could try removing the flexible fuel feed pipe and cleaning it, then try forcing some compressed air ( but not at high pressure ) into the petrol inlet, and of course the fuel pipe and the little filter in the tank. It worked fine for me at one time. Otherwise, it will mean removing ( or replacing ) the carburettor stripping it down and cleaning it.

chabsey

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117699629#Comment_117699629

Thanks, I'm willing to try this instead of just dumping it. So, if you're familiar with the device (or maybe even if you're not but know engines) then there are two little flexible pipes. One is the one I can see the fuel moving through when I'm pressing the priming bulb, the other looks much darker and dirtier, which one of these pipes should I remove? And what kind of compressed air would you suggest ? Something from a handheld can with a directable nozzle?

chabsey

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117699517#Comment_117699517

Definitely willing to clean the carburettor, I'll use it as a chance to learn how these things actually work.

ednwireland

ive had the fuel pipes dissolve on a couple of machines (ethanol in the fuel) got the husqvarna sorted on a warranty, my hyundai multi tool i had to replace the inlet fuel pipe it had disappeared and the filter was rattling round the tank

chabsey

Tracking down a replacement carburettor is not easy, plenty available but finding one that will ship to Ireland is difficult

jmreire

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117699657#Comment_117699657

Yes there's two flexible pipes,,mark where they are connecting, remove and clean them. Ideally, you would remove the carburettor completely and strip it down. There is a special ultrasonic cleaner available, and its literally the bees knees for cleaning mechanical parts, but its not really cost effective for cleaning one carburettor, so strip the carb down,let it steep in some petrol, ( there are cleaning agents available, search google ) then clean the parts individually with a small brush and some compressed air,. Assemble it, and try it out, if it was 2T gunk blocking it, that should cure it.

jmreire

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117699796#Comment_117699796

I've gotten several carburettors from Wish / Aliexpress for small 2 T engines ( and others ) but that was pre VAT clampdown. I'm sure that they are still available, but a bit more expensive. Enter your engine details in the search bar, and see what comes up. I recently got one for a Florabest strimmer, works fine. But I think that I'll definitely invest in an Ultrasonic parts cleaner, they are not that expensive, unless you want the full professional level model.Only problem is how long it will take,5-6 weeks usually, but I've gotten some items in less than a month.

chabsey

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117703123#Comment_117703123

Yeah it's the delivery time that's a killer, circumstances mean I need it sooner rather than later. I'm going to buy a can of carb cleaner and compressed air, give it a clean and see how it goes. I've also heard that emptying the tank, filling it with pure petrol and shaking it is an alternative cleaning method. Might give that a go as well.

jmreire

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117703645#Comment_117703645

Personally, when mixing the 2T with the petrol, I add a thimble full (or less) of Petrol Red X. But no way would I use pure petrol in a 2T engine. The 2T oil prevents carbon build up, so the inlet / out let ports don't clog. Just adding pure petrol to the tank and shaking it will clean the tank OK, but I would not run it through the engine,,,,,I loaned a chainsaw to a friend one time,,he was not a believer in using 2 T oil...end of friendship and chainsaw........

chabsey

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117704903#Comment_117704903

That's what I figured, clean tank but clogged carburettor most likely outcome. I'll stick with the spray cans of cleaner and air. I quite like the idea of taking it apart and cleaning it.

MacDanger

@OP, if you wouldn't mind, would you post a few photos of what you do and how it goes for you? Thanks

chabsey

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117705777#Comment_117705777

Sure....I got the carb cleaner can today, no compressed air available but I think I'll give it a go without it and see.

chabsey

Well I took it all apart, cleaned it all with the carb cleaner, blasted it into each hole and pipe ensuring a free flow. And the end result? Same as before, not working. Same symptoms, primer bulb equally as slow to pop back after each press. After the cleaning when it failed I then went over the 6 primes to see maybe it needed extra, still nothing. Short of replacing the carb I'm out of ideas.

Esel

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117704903#Comment_117704903

Just to clarify, the 2-stroke oil lubricates the engine, it's not for preventing carbon build-up. As you said, running the engine on pure petrol is a big no-one.

@OP, when you had the carb open, did you check that all the metal pipes etc are clear?

If you think any are blocked, a few drops of battery acid should dissolve any gunk in them. Rinse with petrol afterwards. Don't use the acid in any of the flexible tubes.

Edit: Reread your post, it seems you have cleaned it well.

The bulb not recovering would seem to indicate a pressure leak? You could try filling the carb with petrol manually before reassembling it. It seems like the carb is not being primed by the bulb at present. Can you pop the bulb off to see if it is intact and seated/ sealed properly?

jmreire

As above mentioned, you have done a good job, and the remaining suspect now has to be the priming bulb. I had the same problem in a chainsaw,,,sometimes it would start,,,sometimes not, and the bulb seemed to be OK, visually, but it had a small tear in it, and when I opened it, could be seen clear as day...I replaced it, and it started first pull. Has not given any problems since. 2T oil prevents carbon build up as well as providing lubrication. In older diesel engine cars that I owned , one was always going into limp mode until I started adding 2 T oil each time I filled the tank, and after that, I never had a problem with it. But in 2T engines where the inlet / exhaust ports are located in the cylinder wall, it keeps them clean, thereby keeping the timing correct. Remove the bulb as I did, and check it for minute cracks or holes. Better still replace it with a new one, as they can be got seperately. Just an after thought.....is the plug sparking? I'm not sure if you mentioned it already.

chabsey

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117720223#Comment_117720223

I should clarify, when I say it's not popping back it's just that it's slow to pop back. If you imagine it struggling to draw fuel back into itself (this is what I imagine the bulb is doing) then that's what I mean. Press it once, fine, press it twice and it is slow to refill, press it three times and it is very slow to pop back out as if filling the vacuum was difficult for it. That, to me sounds like there's an issue with the little rubber tubes that it draws fuel with but I'm just guessing. Would a perforated bulb not leak?

chabsey

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117721772#Comment_117721772

How do I check if the plug is sparking? The one thing I didn't take apart in the carb was the needle valve as I'd read that sometimes they can spring across the room once undone. It looked clean but maybe I should do it again, nothing to lose I suppose.

listermint

Are you getting spark ? There's other things at play than fuel.

I've one of these very same one. It's an absolute arsehole to start sometimes. And my hedge trimmer extension bit disintegrated. The plastic housing that keeps the blade mechanism together just broke open. Why make it plastic is beyond me.

jmreire

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117729366#Comment_117729366

Disconnect the plug lead, and remove the plug, then reconnect the lead to the plug, and clamp the threaded part of the plug to any metal part of the engine. Pull the start cable, and see if the plug is sparking. ( you can use a hacksaw blade to check the plug gap. Its not 100% acurate, but good enough for a test.) Also, you can use a wire brush to clean the head of the plug. And another thing, when you remove the plug, see if its wet or dry, and how clean is it? You mean the needle valve in the float chamber? Yes, they can get lost very easy.....and so can the hinge pin on the float. I usually use a magnetic tray underneath the carb when I'm working on one. When you removed the float chamber, was it full of petrol?

chabsey

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117729627#Comment_117729627

I'll try the plug and see, when I removed it before it was dry which is concerning.....maybe fuel isn't being drawn into the carb etc.

jmreire

Yes, you could be right. After cleaning and re-assembling it, then tried starting it,and when it failed to start, that would be a good time to remove the plug. And have you checked to see if it is sparking? Have you replaced the pump bulb yet?

blackbox

Have you checked the little hose that goes from the tank to the bulb.

The bulb not recovering suggests this hose is obstructed in some way.

MAULBROOK

I would put money on broken fuel line. Had it on two machines in the last month.

chabsey

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117734676#Comment_117734676

Which is the fuel line? There are two little rubber hoses which appear to go from and to the same place (the fuel tank)

MAULBROOK

Check both as they are made of the same materials.

Fuel is the one with the filter on it.

ratracer

One issue I had with this machine is that the kill switch had moved in its housing and wasn’t making proper contact when switched on……might be worth a look. HTH

chabsey

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117741667#Comment_117741667

Is that the switch on the handle part, the I / O thing?

chabsey

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117741618#Comment_117741618

If it is a broken fuel line, how do you repair it? Where can I get those little pipes?

MAULBROOK

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117742853#Comment_117742853

any motor factors or lawnmower repair center in your area, it will be only a fiver at the most.

Bring the old bit of pipe with you for the right size.

chabsey

If you look back at the photos I posted earlier in this thread you will see there's one showing the fuel tank with one line still attached. There's a rubber bung in the top of the tank which the two lines go through and into the tank. To be able to check the fuel line beyond the part that comes out of the tank, do people generally pop out that bung and check the line through to the filter? It seems pretty well sealed and I don't want to damage it if there's no expectation that it would normally ever be removed as part of fixing the machine.

Also by way of an update - I've cleaned it all again, took apart the kill switch couldn't see anything wrong in there) and still nothing.

chabsey

Have checked the spark plug, it's sparking but is not wet when removed after engine has been primed. Seems to indicate no fuel getting to it.