How do you remove a door

amsbam1 · 02-07-2021 4:38pm #1

I need to remove a couple of doors in order to install laminate underneath them.

However, i've never removed a door before. Any tips?

They are fine at the bottom as the bottom of the door won't rub off the laminate.

I was going to just take out the screws of the hinge and put it back up.

However, after a quick google, I saw some americans videos saying not to take out the screws of the hinge but to take out the pin of the hinge instead.

Explosive_Cornflake · 02-07-2021 4:41pm

The pins don't come out of all hinges. Whatever works for you really.

If you had issue rehanging after taking the screws out, you can fill the holes with a golf tee or match sticks.

Buddy Bubs · 02-07-2021 4:43pm

Take the screws out of the hinge that's on the door, not the hinge that's on the frame. Get someone to take the weight of the door as you remove screws and then again when refitting.

amsbam1 · 02-07-2021 4:46pm

Here are the hinges on the two doors

amsbam1 · 02-07-2021 4:49pm

Buddy Bubs wrote: »

Get someone to take the weight of the door as you remove screws and then again when refitting.

Is that to reduce damage to the screw holes in the door.... so it screws back in again tighter?

amsbam1 · 02-07-2021 4:51pm

Explosive_Cornflake wrote: »

If you had issue rehanging after taking the screws out, you can fill the holes with a golf tee or match sticks.

Can you expand on that - how do I use the match sticks when i'm screwing the door back on?

amsbam1 · 02-07-2021 4:52pm

Explosive_Cornflake wrote: »

The pins don't come out of all hinges. Whatever works for you really.
.

Yeah, looking at my hinges, it looks like maybe they're not designed for the pin to come out.

Buddy Bubs · 02-07-2021 4:56pm

amsbam1 wrote: »

Is that to reduce damage to the screw holes in the door.... so it screws back in again tighter?

Yeah when you get down to last screw removal you don't want it taking the full weight of the door. Could pull screw out when it's almost screwed out and damage the screw hole.
You could have something under door to to take the weight, but it's an easier process with 2 people. Especially refitting

ted1 · 02-07-2021 6:24pm

Are they self closing/fire doors ?

NickNickleby · 02-07-2021 6:42pm

I've done this a few times , single handedly. A couple of pieces of wood tightly under the door - with the door fully open to 90deg off closed. Remove screws starting from the bottom. Do the job, then everything in reverse order to replace. A matchstick pushed into the screwholes makes sure its a tight grip when replacing the screws. Although I've seldom had to do that, and when I have, I suspect the screws had been hammered in originally - yes, its a thing and I've seen it being done by bodgers more than once.

My first thought when seeing the thread title was

"you were only supposed to blow the effin' door off"

A lollipop to anyone who gets the reference.(very popular in the 60's

)

Edit to say: admittedly, you need to be pretty sharpish when the last screw comes out, but at that stage you're standing on something and can hold the top of the door for the last few turns of the last screw - to prevent it toppling. The door's own weight will help keep it balanced, so no need to panic.

KaneToad · 02-07-2021 6:45pm

NickNickleby wrote: »

I've done this a few times , single handedly. A couple of pieces of wood tightly under the door - with the door fully open to 90deg off closed. Remove screws starting from the bottom. Do the job, then everything in reverse order to replace. A matchstick pushed into the screwholes makes sure its a tight grip when replacing the screws. Although I've seldom had to do that, and when I have, I suspect the screws had been hammered in originally - yes, its a thing and I've seen it being done by bodgers more than once.

My first thought when seeing the thread title was

"you were only supposed to blow the effin' door off"

A lollipop to anyone who gets the reference.(very popular in the 60's )

Bloody door...no?

Vestiapx · 02-07-2021 6:50pm

no

NickNickleby wrote: »

I've done this a few times , single handedly. A couple of pieces of wood tightly under the door - with the door fully open to 90deg off closed. Remove screws starting from the bottom. Do the job, then everything in reverse order to replace. A matchstick pushed into the screwholes makes sure its a tight grip when replacing the screws. Although I've seldom had to do that, and when I have, I suspect the screws had been hammered in originally - yes, its a thing and I've seen it being done by bodgers more than once.

My first thought when seeing the thread title was

"you were only supposed to blow the effin' door off"

A lollipop to anyone who gets the reference.(very popular in the 60's )

Edit to say: admittedly, you need to be pretty sharpish when the last screw comes out, but at that stage you're standing on something and can hold the top of the door for the last few turns of the last screw - to prevent it toppling. The door's own weight will help keep it balanced, so no need to panic.

https://youtu.be/7_PX1cVuaVA

NickNickleby · 02-07-2021 6:52pm

KaneToad wrote: »

Bloody door...no?

Excellent - given the time elapsed, your memory is far better than mine. I knew while typing it that effin' wouldn't be used, and even 'bloody' was a bit extreme for mainstream at the time. but of course, I couldn't bloody well remember 'bloody'

Anyway, the lollipop goes to Kane Toad.

amsbam1 · 02-07-2021 7:02pm

ted1 wrote: »

Are they self closing/fire doors ?

No, normal internal doors for a bedroom.

CoBo55 · 02-07-2021 8:44pm

NickNickleby wrote: »

Excellent - given the time elapsed, your memory is far better than mine. I knew while typing it that effin' wouldn't be used, and even 'bloody' was a bit extreme for mainstream at the time. but of course, I couldn't bloody well remember 'bloody'

Anyway, the lollipop goes to Kane Toad.

Kane.... Get it?

NickNickleby · 02-07-2021 8:49pm

CoBo55 wrote: »

Kane.... Get it?

hahaha, no I didn't cop it originally. Good one! Have a lollipop:pac:

the_pen_turner · 02-07-2021 8:54pm

Buddy Bubs wrote: »

Take the screws out of the hinge that's on the door, not the hinge that's on the frame. Get someone to take the weight of the door as you remove screws and then again when refitting.

why do you say to take the screws out of the door. whats your theory behind that.
i always take the screws out of the frame. i find it much easier to align back up when putting it back up. i can lift the door with a door lifter and hole the top of the door so in using my thumb to adjust the left and right of the door.
trying to get the screws back into the door side means your too far away from the door to lift it acuratly and have enough room to driver the screws.

moceri · 02-07-2021 8:55pm

Wedge on each side under the door to take the weight as you unscrew the hinges

NickNickleby · 02-07-2021 8:59pm

just back to add:

I always unscrew the hinge from the frame, for no reason, other than it felt like it would be easier, Never had a problem. In fact, the hinges are often painted over, and so hold tight until the unscrewed door is pulled - hinges and all- away from the frame.

ratracer · 02-07-2021 9:22pm

Those pins will pop. Use a chisel and a hammer to prise up the pin. The long pin should have been driven in from the top down.

policarp · 02-07-2021 9:29pm

If you are taking several doors off be sure to mark them so that they go back to where they came from.
Unless factory fitted there might be slight differences in hinges locks and fitting.

con747 · 02-07-2021 9:36pm

I want to know why the OP is taking doors off to fit laminate

Am I missing something? I fitted all my laminate over the years and never had to remove doors.

kadman · 02-07-2021 10:17pm

When I was fitting I used to carry lots of these brackets I made up to
hold the doors. It made it a one man job. You slide it on to the door, and remove your hinges and the door stayed upright in the jig.

Equally it would hold the door laying on its edge to lock and hinge it. You could also plane the top or bottom edge with either a hand plane, or electric planer.
It is a great bit of kit from a couple of pieces of scrap.

Rough size was about 500mm long, and 150mm high. I made them so there was a bit of carpet material on
the jig material, so as not to mark the doors when I was popping them in and out.

The bottom material thickness could be varied to suit whatever threshold was on the door frame, thick or thin saddle.
And on some I had the jig frame sides material run longer than the base so I could grab the door with the
sides, and have no base material below it. In places where the floor coverings ran through the opes with no saddles

kadman · 03-07-2021 8:33am

Tool of choice for the lock was a Mkita 3600B router, and a 5" long
1/2" router bit. Nice plunging action for 5mm, and then route the length.

Quick easy method, and always routed outside of course:)

Calahonda52 · 03-07-2021 10:53am

Buddy Bubs wrote: »

Take the screws out of the hinge that's on the door, not the hinge that's on the frame. Get someone to take the weight of the door as you remove screws and then again when refitting.

Not the best approach in my view, best off the frame, max room for applying max pressure if screws are tough
also refitting easier

kadman · 03-07-2021 11:00am

Door is a moveable object that you are applying force to in order
to remove the screws, its going to move all over the place.

As C52 says, its best to apply force to the frame instead, its going nowhere.

amsbam1 · 06-07-2021 8:08pm

con747 wrote: »

I want to know why the OP is taking doors off to fit laminate Am I missing something? I fitted all my laminate over the years and never had to remove doors.

The door is over the piece of laminate I'm trying to click in. I need to angle the laminate to click it into the adjacent piece but the door stops me getting that angle across the full length.

con747 · 06-07-2021 8:15pm

amsbam1 wrote: »

The door is over the piece of laminate I'm trying to click in. I need to angle the laminate to click it into the adjacent piece but the door stops me getting that angle across the full length.

Maybe post a picture and someone might have an easier solution. I take it there is no saddle board so? Good luck with it anyway.

Maxxx17 · 15-07-2021 2:05pm

First open the door slightly. Then you need to support it from below with a lever - a crowbar or other suitable object. With the lever to lift the leaf up. Slightly turning it. It is better to do it by two people. So that the second person holds the door. When the hinge parts come apart take out the leaf.