When is it time to stop putting money into car?

forumdedum

When you get a bill for repairs how much would you spend on your car before considering replacing the car?

The good money after bad scenario

listermint

Tbh there is no right answer to this. You'd have to include the history of the car and any money that went into it.

James Bond Junior

forumdedum wrote: »

When you get a bill for repairs how much would you spend on your car before considering replacing the car?

The good money after bad scenario

What kind of a car? Cost of repairs? Age?

If it's a 4 year old car worth 20k and needs a grand spent in normal maintenance eg brakes, timing belt etc then spend it. If it's a 18 year old fiat punto rotten in rust needing a grand spent, that's different.

forumdedum

listermint wrote: »

Tbh there is no right answer to this. You'd have to include the history of the car and any money that went into it.

Apart from servicing & new tyres i've never had to put money into it before.

The car is 5 years old and needs 4 new tyres & another €1800 spent on it. So about €2600 total I guess.

forumdedum

James Bond Junior wrote: »

What kind of a car? Cost of repairs? Age?

If it's a 4 year old car worth 20k and needs a grand spent in normal maintenance eg brakes, timing belt etc then spend it. If it's a 18 year old fiat punto rotten in rust needing a grand spent, that's different.

VW Tiguan. About €2600 including tyres. 5 years old.

I'm not sure how much the timing belt & water pump will cost for it. And yes brakes too - €800 for those.

You're on the ball

bazz26

What's costing 1800 on a 5 year old Tiguan?

forumdedum

bazz26 wrote: »

What's costing 1800 on a 5 year old Tiguan?

Front & rear brakes - €800

I'm guessing timing belt & water pump around €1000? Haven't been provided with quote for this.

fryup

i suppose when the money you're putting into it is more than the car is worth

forumdedum

fryup wrote: »

i suppose when the money you're putting into it is more than the car is worth

That's one theory

listermint

Sounds like preventative maintenance tbh. You know the car well . This is stuff to keep it going for another few years. Not bad money after good situation

beertons

Fix it and drive on.

bazz26

Where are you getting the prices of those items from?

A timing belt and water pump should not be costing 1k for that car imo. 800 also sounds expensive for front/rear brake discs and pads for a Tiguan. I'd also double check that the front and back brake discs need replacing at the same time, rear brake discs generally have an easier life than the front.

You need to get exact prices for what actually needs doing as it sounds like your making worst case guesses imo.

forumdedum

bazz26 wrote: »

Where are you getting the prices of those items from?

A timing belt and water pump should not be costing 1k for that car imo. 800 also sounds expensive for front/rear brake discs and pads for a Tiguan. I'd also double check that the front and back brake discs need replacing at the same time, rear brake discs generally have an easier life than the front.

You need to get exact prices for what actually needs doing as it sounds like your making worst case guesses imo.

The car was in for service in VW dealer and they gave me those prices.

During Covid I have hardly driven the car. Would that effect brakes? Apparently there is corrosion on them.

I have exact prices for everything except timing belt/water pump. I requested this from dealer and they are yet to quote for it.

joe40

forumdedum wrote: »

Front & rear brakes - €800

I'm guessing timing belt & water pump around €1000? Haven't been provided with quote for this.

People a lot more knowledgeable can advise but i would have thought those things you mention are just normal maintenance, so any trade in price will factor those things into account if they're outstanding.

advertsfox

forumdedum wrote: »

Front & rear brakes - €800

I'm guessing timing belt & water pump around €1000? Haven't been provided with quote for this.

So the €2600 is approx (with labor included):

€800 new tires all around
€800 discs / pads all around
€1000 for new belt + pump

Other than shopping around for prices and ensuring that this work is 100% required, all of this seems pretty reasonable for me (albeit a big high, now that I know it's a VW dealer quote). Tiguans hold their value well and this will keep it driving on for many more years to come, esp since it's a 2016 version (worth 17-24K on Carzone at the moment). Is it the MK2 version?

James Bond Junior

I'd suggest spending to keep it going if you are planning on keeping it a while but post your location and someone on here will direct you to somewhere where you can get an independent mechanic to do the work for a fraction of what you need to spend.

Daltons of Portlaoise are very well regarded on this forum for VW.

User1998

forumdedum wrote: »

The car was in for service in VW dealer and they gave me those prices.

During Covid I have hardly driven the car. Would that effect brakes? Apparently there is corrosion on them.

I have exact prices for everything except timing belt/water pump. I requested this from dealer and they are yet to quote for it.

Go to a good independent mechanic and they will probably do it for half that.

Anything other than oil changes and timing belt at a main dealer is pointless and overpriced

I’d love to see this ‘corrosion’ they speak of. They probably don’t even need changing

MetzgerMeister

This is where being able to DIY stuff on a car comes into play. You can get OEM quality parts from the likes of Winparts and do the job yourself in order to keep costs down. Just hold on to the receipt and write on it the date you did the job and keep photographic evidence of the old parts vs new etc.

Stihl waters

fryup wrote: »

i suppose when the money you're putting into it is more than the car is worth

Up to what point tho, putting a clutch into a 1 lady owner micra worth 500 euro makes economic sense if the car is otherwise fine compared to putting a clutch into a 03 Passat driven to within an inch of its life

Del2005

fryup wrote: »

i suppose when the money you're putting into it is more than the car is worth

Plenty of cars kept for sentimental reasons and a lot of classics have a lot more spent on them than they are worth.

There is no answer because some people might use an expensive job as an excuse to change will others will see it as spending money on an otherwise good vehicle, there's no guarantee that anything you buy won't have an expensive job soon after you buy or just after you do the expensive job on your current vehicle.

TP_CM

If you have money sitting around not earning then it's time to move on. Put money in at the beginning not at the end. You'll have less hassle and a better car.

garv123

175 euro for mintex disc front and back
95euro for mintex pads front and back
270 total

Hardly need 4 new discs on a 2016 car tho

€170 for a gates timing belt kit with water pump

Highly unlikely that you need 4 new tyres at the same time too unless you swapped them around at some stage?

Time to visit an independent mechanic me thinks

CoBo55

garv123 wrote: »

175 euro for mintex disc front and back
95euro for mintex pads front and back
270 total

Hardly need 4 new discs on a 2016 car tho

€170 for a gates timing belt kit with water pump

Highly unlikely that you need 4 new tyres at the same time too unless you swapped them around at some stage?

Time to visit an independent mechanic me thinks

That's more realistic prices, where these dealers get their prices from is nuts. OP don't fall for the belt must be done at 5 years, if you have the 2 litre diesel the belt is good for 200k km, I was told this by a Skoda/VW mechanic, many European countries specify mileage only for this engine, if you replace it with an OEM belt kit not necessarily bought from VW directly you're good for another 200k. What size tyres does it have?

CianRyan

Yeah, this car is out of warranty so there is nothing to be gained by going to VW for these repairs.
A good indie is the way forward.

Old diesel

forumdedum wrote: »

Apart from servicing & new tyres i've never had to put money into it before.

The car is 5 years old and needs 4 new tyres & another €1800 spent on it. So about €2600 total I guess.

What you need to consider is the following.

1) not having the work done means a reduction in the cars value.

2) what would you be replacing it - it will either be an older car which could have its own issues or a newer car. The latter will be more then 2600 euros.

I probably would put the money into it.

Edit I missed what the bill was for - I assumed it was for big ticket items like injectors.

An Ri rua

I got 4 BFG Urban Terrain 215/65/16 for a CrV II about a year ago for approx 680 IIRC, fitted and balanced. Down in Ennis. Worth the trip.
800 is mad for Tiguan tyres. Unless they are 17 or 18s?

Sincerely doubt there's anything wrong with your disks that a good Indy couldn't remedy.

ShadowHearth

How many miles on the car? Unless you did some huge millage in 5 years I can't see why timing belt would need to be done. Same with discs.

naughtysmurf

forumdedum wrote: »

The car was in for service in VW dealer and they gave me those prices.

This is where your cost issues start, it’s out of warranty so go to a good recommended Indy as others have suggested, if you put mechanic into the search you will find a few names that those of us on here use, go elsewhere for tyres too

blueskys

As above, stay away from main dealer if you want to save money. You are literally throwing money away. Timing belt 450 in an independent mechanics here in galway, 600 for front and back pads and discs.

bazz26

Who in their right mind buys tyres off a dealer? A tyre centre will be nearly always cheaper.

forumdedum

bazz26 wrote: »

Who in their right mind buys tyres off a dealer? A tyre centre will be nearly always cheaper.

I buy them from tyre centre. Started this years ago when the dealer told me they couldn't fit tyres to the cars they sold me because the wheels are too big! I don't think they are excessively big wheels. They came with the Highline Tiguan. They tyres i buy are €190 each and they have been incredibly long lasting

forumdedum

ShadowHearth wrote: »

How many miles on the car? Unless you did some huge millage in 5 years I can't see why timing belt would need to be done. Same with discs.

90,000 miles

Toyotafanboi

CoBo55 wrote: »

That's more realistic prices, where these dealers get their prices from is nuts.

The only problem with those prices is he's quoted the price of the first set of discs he could find on google without quoting for pads and fitting.

IMO those prices, even for dealer prices are outrageous but the above isn't a depiction of reality either.

garv123

Toyotafanboi wrote: »

The only problem with those prices is he's quoted the price of the first set of discs he could find on google without quoting for pads and fitting.

IMO those prices, even for dealer prices are outrageous but the above isn't a depiction of reality either.

It wasnt the first actually, it was the brand that I just fitted last weekend, that I was told were a decent brand. I could have went for the set that was €50 each.
And I also quoted pads too.

It cost me 50quid + Vat to change the front pads and discs. I hour labour with an indie mechanic.

Casati

If you have the money I’d consider trading it in now while it’s worth strong money.

I’ve regretted keeping cars too long and try now to buy nearly new and get rid of them at 5/ 6 years old - before they start costing money

advertsfox

Casati wrote: »

If you have the money I’d consider trading it in now while it’s worth strong money.

I’ve regretted keeping cars too long and try now to buy nearly new and get rid of them at 5/ 6 years old - before they start costing money

That's what I would do if you are in the position (I traded my 2014 Tiguan for a new Karoq) as there is a healthy amount of car stock available with decent PCP/finance offers. That being said, my Tiguan drove great for me but needed a new clutch, 4 new tires and some paint correction - after that, it would have still been 100% a great driver for many more years.

I never understand the disc prices charged, you can decent discs and pads for not much and they take about 10 mins a wheel to change

Unless you were running pads that were complety gone back to metal and have shredded the disc I fail to see how the discs on a car that old could need replacing either.

garrettod

That quote sounds like a complete rip off!

Go to any of the bigger tyre retailers (Fast Fit, Advanced etc) and ask them to check the 4 tyres, to see which ones need replacing. They get them to give you a quote for replacement - both for the same brand, and other decent alternative brands.

If you have a full size spare wheel and tyre with the car, it may make sense to swap the spare with one of the ones that needs replacing. This may save you the cost of a tyre, given the spare is only for short term emergencies, so doesn't need to be a brand new tyre, once its safe to use etc.

The people at those tyre and exhaust centres can also check the break pads and discs for you, and again, give you a quote.

Checking tyres and brakes is a fairly quick job, so you should be able to just drop in off peak, and they'll check every thing for you, in 15 mins (for free).

Then go to an independent mechanic - there are lots of good ones, often well known for their work on specific manufacturers cars. Ask them to check the other items, and give you a price.

If you put a seperate post up, asking for recommendations, for good independent garages to work in VW cars, in your part of the country, I'm sure you'll get a few recommendations fairly quickly.

If you spend anywhere near the original quote, even to get all of the work done independently, I'll be amazed....

Bloomin rip off dealers - they are always the same - try to rip the loyal customer off, every single time.

garrettod

forumdedum wrote: »

VW Tiguan. . ...

That's a decent car btw, and it's not particularly old, and the items that you've listed are all down to normal use, so I would be slow to get rid of the car.

What's the point in buying a new car, that will depreciate by 25% - 35% the moment you drive it out of the garage?

If your car needs new tyres, breaks etc then get them done, and enjoy another few years of happy motoring, without giving your hard earned money away, for no good reason

Casati

garrettod wrote: »

What's the point in buying a new car, that will depreciate by 25% - 35% the moment you drive it out of the garage?

Buying new opens up 0% PCP which makes payment affordable for many. If have cash to buy or need limited finance, buying a nearly new that has depreciated by that 25% or 35% is the way to go

blueskys

I recently went to a main vw dealer for a service and also to test
them as a service. There was a resistor pack gone in the air con, part cost 13.00 euro. I just asked them to look at the aircon as it wasnt working properly and let me know. They told me the fan was broke and quoted 200 to fix the fan. The fix took 5 mins. Complete chancers in suits.

0lddog

forumdedum wrote: »

....I'm guessing timing belt & water pump around €1000? Haven't been provided with quote for this.

Dealers for VAG brands used to have fixed prices for this sort of thing ( IIRC 500 - 700 for belt, pump kit fitted ). Did they stop doing this ?

James Bond Junior wrote: »

...
Daltons of Portlaoise are very well regarded on this forum for VW.

+1

_Kaiser_

James Bond Junior wrote: »

I'd suggest spending to keep it going if you are planning on keeping it a while but post your location and someone on here will direct you to somewhere where you can get an independent mechanic to do the work for a fraction of what you need to spend.

Daltons of Portlaoise are very well regarded on this forum for VW.

This and another +1 for Daltons. They've been looking after my cars for years and are always easy to deal with, will tell you what's needed/can wait, and fair priced.

BlakeS94

forumdedum wrote: »

When you get a bill for repairs how much would you spend on your car before considering replacing the car?

The good money after bad scenario

My previous car cost me €2500 in repairs, excluding oil changes and filters. The last thing I paid to be done was the DPF pressure sensor then I sold the car, but I sold it in good nick but I was just pissed off with having to pay for so much in the 2 years I owned it. My current car has cost me €2500 in the last one year, and is currently in the garage for presumed turbo and/or injectors, which will probably amount to another €2500 if its both. I think holding onto your car even if its costing you many thousands and then it's fixed, rather than selling it, paying probably more money to buy a new car, and that new car could also have issues, better the devil you know, in my opinion

MetzgerMeister

MetzgerMeister wrote: »

This is where being able to DIY stuff on a car comes into play. You can get OEM quality parts from the likes of Winparts and do the job yourself in order to keep costs down. Just hold on to the receipt and write on it the date you did the job and keep photographic evidence of the old parts vs new etc.

Did you read the OPs contribution to the thread at all? I am not sure OP should take your advice unless

Are you suggesting the OP watches a YouTube video, orders his parts and then has a go changing the water pump and timing belt?

Are you suggesting the OP buys a tyre fitting machine and all the ancillaries?

Are you suggesting the OP has a go at changing the brakes on their 2,300kg family car?

BlakeS94

Mayo_fan wrote: »

Did you read the OPs contribution to the thread at all? I am not sure OP should take your advice unless

Are you suggesting the OP watches a YouTube video, orders his parts and then has a go changing the water pump and timing belt?

Are you suggesting the OP buys a tyre fitting machine and all the ancillaries?

Are you suggesting the OP has a go at changing the brakes on their 2,300kg family car?

The other stuff no. But in fairness brake jobs are not complicated and there's plenty of in depth tutorials on YouTube, you'd get a decent set of discs and pads for €150, let's say OP has no tools, ratchet and socket set for €50 and a jack and jack stands for let's say €100 That's a saving of €500 right there. I first learned how to change discs and pads a couple years ago, through a ChrisFix YouTube video, and I've changed discs and/or pads without issue on 4 cars since then, excluding my own. Everything tightened to spec, guide pins cleaned and lubed etc. Previously done by main dealer on my own car and there were no signs of grease on the backing plate of silicone paste on the calliper guide pins when I changed them

jimmycrackcorm

I service my cars after watching youtube videos showing how. Especially oil and filter changes are imminently doable. I'd be reluctant to do the timing belt and water pump though as it is a real pain.

hurikane

Has anyone got a link to the famous thread, where the fella kept pumping thousands and thousands into a car that he should have scrapped?

CoBo55

hurikane wrote: »

Has anyone got a link to the famous thread, where the fella kept pumping thousands and thousands into a car that he should have scrapped?

KKV and the C5... Legendary stuff:D

Brian?

Mayo_fan wrote: »

Did you read the OPs contribution to the thread at all? I am not sure OP should take your advice unless

Are you suggesting the OP watches a YouTube video, orders his parts and then has a go changing the water pump and timing belt?

Are you suggesting the OP buys a tyre fitting machine and all the ancillaries?

Are you suggesting the OP has a go at changing the brakes on their 2,300kg family car?

I'd do all 4 discs and pads on a car in less than an hour. It's a stupidly simple thing to do.

CoBo55

BlakeS94 wrote: »

The other stuff no. But in fairness brake jobs are not complicated and there's plenty of in depth tutorials on YouTube, you'd get a decent set of discs and pads for €150, let's say OP has no tools, ratchet and socket set for €50 and a jack and jack stands for let's say €100 That's a saving of €500 right there. I first learned how to change discs and pads a couple years ago, through a ChrisFix YouTube video, and I've changed discs and/or pads without issue on 4 cars since then, excluding my own. Everything tightened to spec, guide pins cleaned and lubed etc. Previously done by main dealer on my own car and there were no signs of grease on the backing plate of silicone paste on the calliper guide pins when I changed them

Most modern pads don't need grease on the back, they have a cushion base. Red brake grease can be used on the pins but if the rubber gaiters are intact it's best to leave them alone. Rear pads aren't that easy to do even with the correct wind-back tool they can be a right pain in the arse to get the piston back that annoying last 2mm's to get the pads to fit in. Without the proper tool or impact driver it can be a nightmare to open the screw locating the disc to the hub. In my opinion it's best leaving brakes to a person who has the proper tools.