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Workbench

  • 27-03-2021 7:33pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 230 ✭✭


    Hi all, quick question...

    I'm looking to build a DIY workbench in my garden shed. I'm considering to build the frame with 2"x2" and then use plywood for the worktop.

    I was wondering what plywood could anyone be able to recommend? I'm looking for the sturdiest I can get.

    The dimensions of the bench is 10ft x 500mm deep so I was thinking something like 25mm ply buy not sure what plywood is the strongest ie hardwood, marine etc.

    Cheers.


Comments

  • Posts: 7,497 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    If your looking for study then 2x2 is fairly lame.
    A double layer of 18mm hardwood ply makes a good worktop.
    I made my own with 150mm aluminum extrusion & laminate kitchen worktop.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 29,434 ✭✭✭✭looksee


    Agreed about the 2x2, I'd suggest minimum 3x2 but more substantial would be better again. Same with the top, min 18mm ply - again, anything more substantial would be better again.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,182 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    Get an offcut of kitchen worktop off adverts or done deal and glue and screw 12mm ply to the top of it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,982 ✭✭✭The Continental Op


    Might be a bit small (too shallow x2 or too deep x3) for you but if you want a beat the crap out of it top then these scaffolding boards are good https://www.goodwins.ie/products/Banded-Scaffold-Plank-Board-225x63mm-2.4m-9x2.5-8ft-.html Note they are extra thick boards not the thin ones. I use them on a couple of tressels when I need an extra bench.

    Agree with the others on the legs. I have used 3x3 fence posts in the past for legs possibly overkill but it really depends on what you are using it for.

    Check youtube there are some really good videos on bench making.

    Wake me up when it's all over.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 31,230 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    There are loads of different "hardwood" plys. The toughest stuff is hardwood throughout, i.e. every single ply is hardwood, whereas the cheaper stuff is softwood cored with hardwood faces.

    You should be able to get ply in 3050mm lengths. If it's not thick enough you can laminate a couple of layers together, which actually makes it stronger than a single sheet of the same thickness.

    Birch ply seems to have quite high surface hardness, if that's what you're looking for.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,309 ✭✭✭...Ghost...


    I'll be constructing a small workbench in my shed too. Plan is to use 4x2 and kitchen counter top off adverts with some ply on top. Bullet proof design. It's a small block shed and i'll have 6ft of worktop at best, so I may engineer an extension I can pull out with some fold down legs.

    Stay Free



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 230 ✭✭CantThinkOfANam


    Hi, thanks for all the replies.

    Apologies if I was misunderstood. It's mostly for hobby building and garden potting etc there won't be any heavy duty work taken place. I also wanted to something that looked nice and blended in with the shed interior since I ply'd the inside of the shed.

    The bench will be secured to the perimeter so won't have legs (perhaps some diagonal braces). So going from the advice I'll probably use 4x2 and laminate two 18mm hardwood ply's together (or a worktop from adverts etc).

    Can I ask why people are fixing plywood to the top of a worktop? My only guess is to protect the laminate?

    Thanks again.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 29,434 ✭✭✭✭looksee


    Mostly I guess because laminate is not a sympathetic surface to do woodworking on.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 559 ✭✭✭Fine Cheers


    That's a cosy looking spot well done. I'd say you'll need a leg or 2 to the front of the worktop. Are you getting much daylight from windows ? Doing something similar myself but window or clear roof sheet not appealing to me at present.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,982 ✭✭✭The Continental Op


    I'd put a shiny new kitchen work surface in that. Just pick a finish you like, you'll find a wood one to match or contrast the walls easily enough.

    Strip of wood around the walls for support and a leg in the middle. I'm working off something very similar as we speak.

    Wake me up when it's all over.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,982 ✭✭✭The Continental Op


    May I suggest if you are using compost that you have a backboard to stop any wet or even damp compost getting into the plug sockets.

    Wake me up when it's all over.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 230 ✭✭CantThinkOfANam


    I'd put a shiny new kitchen work surface in that. Just pick a finish you like, you'll find a wood one to match or contrast the walls easily enough.

    Strip of wood around the walls for support and a leg in the middle. I'm working off something very similar as we speak.

    Thanks very much. I was considering that also but I was trying to get a similar natural finish like the plywood.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 29,434 ✭✭✭✭looksee


    Agreed, if you are doing 'clean' crafting and potting a length of kitchen counter might be the best thing so you can clean it down between projects. You can get a very handy heavy plastic potting tray for doing the actual potting on https://www.google.com/search?q=plastic+potting+tray&rlz=1C1CHBF_enIE885IE885&sxsrf=ALeKk031CraywwGzpfLCacqwc0R8WXPhvQ:1616954622605&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=8bFFce2ZdgsuUM%252CabcCVwGitM3fjM%252C_&vet=1&usg=AI4_-kTeOJJN7t8x3OyCImyu2kJlFf_H1A&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjOwZevydPvAhX0sHEKHeVVA84Q9QF6BAgWEAE#imgrc=8bFFce2ZdgsuUM


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 230 ✭✭CantThinkOfANam


    DIY KING wrote: »
    That's a cosy looking spot well done. I'd say you'll need a leg or 2 to the front of the worktop. Are you getting much daylight from windows ? Doing something similar myself but window or clear roof sheet not appealing to me at present.

    Yeah I'm getting lots of light, the windows are west facing. I have two 4 foot LED double lights as well so lots of light;)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 559 ✭✭✭Fine Cheers


    What I want you to say is that I"ll manage without the windows !! Can always cut in after. Mine will be just for storage of lawn mower, tools etc. Lean-to type 3m x 2m.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 230 ✭✭CantThinkOfANam


    DIY KING wrote: »
    What I want you to say is that I"ll manage without the windows !! Can always cut in after. Mine will be just for storage of lawn mower, tools etc. Lean-to type 3m x 2m.

    You’ll manage without the windows lol

    Have you any power to the shed?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 559 ✭✭✭Fine Cheers


    You’ll manage without the windows lol

    Have you any power to the shed?

    Yes power for lights and sockets


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,182 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    Thanks very much. I was considering that also but I was trying to get a similar natural finish like the plywood.

    Too much ply going on for my liking if you ply the counter also. And it will be quite expensive for the thickness required for strength over that span.

    Personally id break up the space with a different counter it's all very red ply looking.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 230 ✭✭CantThinkOfANam


    listermint wrote: »
    Too much ply going on for my liking if you ply the counter also. And it will be quite expensive for the thickness required for strength over that span.

    Personally id break up the space with a different counter it's all very red ply looking.

    Yeah your probably right, I just haven’t found a countertop that I like. But I’m known for being fussy:/


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,982 ✭✭✭The Continental Op


    Have you looked at the samples they have in most builders merchants?

    btw carpet tiles work OK in a shed - I got mine from the TSB bank in town when they were throwing them out.

    Wake me up when it's all over.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 68,190 ✭✭✭✭seamus


    Carpet tiles will be a bit of pain if you have any dirty equipment at all, like shovels or lawnmowers. Eventually the tiles will get dirty and nothing you can do to clean them. If they get wet in the winter they may also end up smelling the place out and attracting silverfish.

    In that case, you're betting off fitting some cheap laminate; the darker the better to hide scuffs and dirt. It also works out cheaper per square metre. Though obviously nothing cheaper than free if you know someone clearing out an office!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,982 ✭✭✭The Continental Op


    seamus wrote: »
    Carpet tiles will be a bit of pain if you have any dirty equipment at all, like shovels or lawnmowers. Eventually the tiles will get dirty and nothing you can do to clean them. If they get wet in the winter they may also end up smelling the place out and attracting silverfish.

    In that case, you're betting off fitting some cheap laminate; the darker the better to hide scuffs and dirt. It also works out cheaper per square metre. Though obviously nothing cheaper than free if you know someone clearing out an office!

    Works out fine, keep an old vacuum cleaner out there.

    Wake me up when it's all over.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 230 ✭✭CantThinkOfANam


    Have you looked at the samples they have in most builders merchants?

    btw carpet tiles work OK in a shed - I got mine from the TSB bank in town when they were throwing them out.

    Hi, yes I'm familiar with a lot of them, they are a bit on the expensive side too as I need approx 6m and they come in 4.1m so I'd have to buy 2 lengths:eek:

    Been looking at adverts also.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 24,473 ✭✭✭✭Sleepy


    For the countertop you could get lucky in the discount section of IKEA - they often have counter-tops that have been slightly dinged or used for showroom displays for sale cheaply in the corner to the right of the checkout lanes. Might not be ideal for a kitchen but perfect for a potting shed.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 230 ✭✭CantThinkOfANam


    Sleepy wrote: »
    For the countertop you could get lucky in the discount section of IKEA - they often have counter-tops that have been slightly dinged or used for showroom displays for sale cheaply in the corner to the right of the checkout lanes. Might not be ideal for a kitchen but perfect for a potting shed.

    Cheers I’ll keep an eye out. Gonna pop into B&Q and see what they have tomorrow.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 559 ✭✭✭Fine Cheers


    I'm a sucker for Tim and the Restoration Couple https://youtu.be/C8IIOR0fSBk


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 230 ✭✭CantThinkOfANam


    DIY KING wrote: »
    I'm a sucker for Tim and the Restoration Couple https://youtu.be/C8IIOR0fSBk

    Love looking at carpentry videos, thanks! However as a previous poster said, I think it would be too much plywood in the shed.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 230 ✭✭CantThinkOfANam


    Sorry just looking for some advise. I built a workbench for my garden shed and I'm considering putting some drawers under the workbench. I was looking at putting in a shelve and mounting the drawers on the shelve.

    My question is does anyone know of any rails that can be fixed to the shelve instead of fixing to a side, or even if there is any pre-made drawer options?

    Hope I'm making myself clear, thanks!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 51 ✭✭fulanoquetal


    Remember it is a worktop. It will probably get wet, scruffy, paint/oil, dings and dents. you might get away with a double thickness of OSB or MDF....I suggest that you top it off aith some 6mm MDF. You can use 4 screws to keep it in place and change it/flip it over when needed. You can also paint it if required.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 230 ✭✭CantThinkOfANam


    Remember it is a worktop. It will probably get wet, scruffy, paint/oil, dings and dents. you might get away with a double thickness of OSB or MDF....I suggest that you top it off aith some 6mm MDF. You can use 4 screws to keep it in place and change it/flip it over when needed. You can also paint it if required.

    That’s a great idea thanks. Just can’t decide how to fix drawers underneath. (I keep getting a server error when I try attach a picture).


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 51 ✭✭fulanoquetal




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 51 ✭✭fulanoquetal




    I built a bench like this. Very Sturdy (and heavy). It is based on 3 boxes mde from MDF and then encased in ply.

    IMGhttps://www.popularwoodworking.com/projects/aw-extra-dream-workbench


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 230 ✭✭CantThinkOfANam



    Hey thanks for the idea, that’s kind of what I’m looking for but I want it to fix from the bottom.

    I just had a thought. Could I use a normal drawer rail that usually fixes to the side of a cabinet and place say 2 of them flat on the shelve and fix a drawer on top of them? Hope I’m making sense!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,307 ✭✭✭cletus


    Hey thanks for the idea, that’s kind of what I’m looking for but I want it to fix from the bottom.

    I just had a thought. Could I use a normal drawer rail that usually fixes to the side of a cabinet and place say 2 of them flat on the shelve and fix a drawer on top of them? Hope I’m making sense!

    I don't think that would working, the bearing surfaces wouldn't be engaged


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,463 ✭✭✭Leftyflip


    Hey thanks for the idea, that’s kind of what I’m looking for but I want it to fix from the bottom.

    I just had a thought. Could I use a normal drawer rail that usually fixes to the side of a cabinet and place say 2 of them flat on the shelve and fix a drawer on top of them? Hope I’m making sense!

    Something like these could work?
    Also definitely check Ikea for a cheap counter top, I got one for thirty quid recently.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 230 ✭✭CantThinkOfANam


    Leftyflip wrote: »
    Something like these could work?
    Also definitely check Ikea for a cheap counter top, I got one for thirty quid recently.

    Thanks, those are a neat piece of kit. I’m thinking of just using heavy duty rails on either side of the shed and making a single pull out drawer.


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