Woodshavings (general woodworking chat thread)

magicbastarder

checked with Kadman, he was fine with the idea of a general chat thread; for the type of chat which might not deserve its own thread, or simple questions with hopefully simple answers.

my starter for ten - i have some west system two stage epoxy which is well over a year old, and i know it has a shelf life, but does that apply just to the hardener, or to both the resin and hardener? i.e. will the resin itself be OK and i just need to buy new hardener?

kadman

Not sure about the epoxy. But its also something I might have to delve into,

as I have just turned a bowl with significant woodworm damage. Epoxy might solve it.

My son( the special prostethics tech for the film industry), uses every epoxy available.

And he would know, but wont be back from Prague film shoot for a couple of weeks,

so if you dont get the answer by then, I am sure he will have it for you.

K

Calahonda52

magicbastarder wrote: »

.. will the resin itself be OK and i just need to buy new hardener?

I am 68 and still on the original hardener.

Calahonda52

Calahonda52 wrote: »

I am 68 and still on the original hardener.

Does it still set up as quickly as it did a few years back?

Double Barrel

I would be more concerned with the resin as it will "age ", as the resin may thicken after several years.
The hardner will be fine as long as stored properly.

Double Barrel

Calahonda52 wrote: »

I am 68 and still on the original hardener.

JayZeus wrote: »

Does it still set up as quickly as it did a few years back?

It just depends on the catalyst involved. :cool::rolleyes::D

Double Barrel

Double Barrel wrote: »

It just depends on the catalyst involved. :cool::rolleyes::D

I usually find the Lee Valley catalogue or a visit to a Festool showroom is enough to activate my hardener anyway.

kadman

I think I might have to get a the banning stick...........if I had one:D

Never had a banning on woodcraft, and now we have 3 candidates up for the title.:p

Must be a level 5 lockdown thing:)

magicbastarder

Double Barrel wrote: »

I would be more concerned with the resin as it will "age ", as the resin may thicken after several years.
The hardner will be fine as long as stored properly.

now that you mention it, the resin has remained clear but is quite gloopy. the hardener has darkened, which is why i assumed it'd 'go off' first.

Double Barrel

MB
The colour change is normal with age.

Take a gander here,it will hopefully answer some questions:https://www.westsystem.com/the-105-system/storage-shelf-life/

bamayang

magicbastarder wrote: »

checked with Kadman, he was fine with the idea of a general chat thread; for the type of chat which might not deserve its own thread, or simple questions with hopefully simple answers.

my starter for ten - i have some west system two stage epoxy which is well over a year old, and i know it has a shelf life, but does that apply just to the hardener, or to both the resin and hardener? i.e. will the resin itself be OK and i just need to buy new hardener?

I bought the West system at the start of the year from a boat supplies company in Ireland. Your man selling it said he had epoxy batches sitting in his shed 5 years old that were still A1 to use.

magicbastarder

fantasy 'tool that doesn't exist' wishlist?

for me, it'd be a type of shaped forstner bit for cutting eggcup cups.
i'm making a load for christmas presents on the lathe at the moment, and the least creative but most time consuming part is turning the inside of the cup, which obviously is the bit you want uniformly reproduced. a bit i could stick on the jacob's chuck to quickly scoop that out would be great.

iamtony

magicbastarder wrote: »

fantasy 'tool that doesn't exist' wishlist?

for me, it'd be a type of shaped forstner bit for cutting eggcup cups.
i'm making a load for christmas presents on the lathe at the moment, and the least creative but most time consuming part is turning the inside of the cup, which obviously is the bit you want uniformly reproduced. a bit i could stick on the jacob's chuck to quickly scoop that out would be great.

Why don't you just order the festool egg cup making tool. Only €6,000.00

magicbastarder

i'd love to, but it's made to american egg standards, not european sizing.

Ask and you shall receive:

http://www.cifall.se/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=491

Great company to deal with too.

Calahonda52

JayZeus wrote: »

Ask and you shall receive:

http://www.cifall.se/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=491

Great company to deal with too.

Must show this to the other half for Xmas present ideas.

its about 11 to 1 Xrate
https://www.x-rates.com/calculator/?from=SEK&to=EUR&amount=11

Whats the VAT and shipping costs like?

Double Barrel

magicbastarder wrote: »

i'd love to, but it's made to american egg standards, not european sizing.

:cool::):rolleyes:

Calahonda52

Calahonda52 wrote: »

Must show this to the other half for Xmas present ideas.

its about 11 to 1 Xrate
https://www.x-rates.com/calculator/?from=SEK&to=EUR&amount=11

Whats the VAT and shipping costs like?

Swedish VAT is 25% and they don't list a postage fee to Ireland, but if you ask them they'll arrange it. Local postage is €6, so I'd expect €10-12 or so. Not cheap, not awful.

Romer

magicbastarder wrote: »

fantasy 'tool that doesn't exist' wishlist?

A wire brush head for an oscillating tool. Was doing something the other week using a wire brush on a drill and it was a bit catastrophic. Too much speed, too little control, and after about 15 minutes my wrists were killing me. I thought, "Sure there must be a multi tool attachment like that."

Searched and searched to no avail. Best closest thing i could find was a youtube vid where some lad had taken a small, toothbrush sized wire brush and screwed it to a reciprocating saw blade.

Ah lads, ye'll have to try harder.. :P

Not cheap, but they do exist:

https://khr-online.com/products/corner-texturing-brush?variant=36769741775

kadman

JayZeus wrote: »

Ah lads, ye'll have to try harder.. :P

Not cheap, but they do exist:

https://khr-online.com/products/corner-texturing-brush?variant=36769741775

I think we should make you the official woodcraft Gofer.

Now go and find me a woodturning chuck with a M39 4Pitch thread that will fit my lathe.

Sent numerous e mails to Irish (Grrr) suppliers over the last few weeks,
and the lazy sods never even answered.

So make it so JZ;)

Romer

JayZeus wrote: »

Ah lads, ye'll have to try harder.. :P

Not cheap, but they do exist:

https://khr-online.com/products/corner-texturing-brush?variant=36769741775

Yowza!! :eek:

I may have a bash at the screwing a toothbrush to a Sawzall blade....

Be kinda of a MadMax meets MacGyver lookin thing...

kadman

kadman wrote: »

I think we should make you the official woodcraft Gofer.

Now go and find me a woodturning chuck with a M39 4Pitch thread that will fit my lathe.

Sent numerous e mails to Irish (Grrr) suppliers over the last few weeks,
and the lazy sods never even answered.

So make it so JZ;)

What's the lathe again?

And the chuck - Dimensions and mounting hole specs would be helpful.

First port of call for me in any case would be to email tony@lathes.co.** with the ** being 'uk' - Send him the specs and mounting dimensions and see if he can supply something 'turnkey' for you. He's good with things like that.

After that, I'd be looking for:

https://www.ebay.ie/itm/M39-X-4-THREADED-BACKPLATE-ADAPTER-FOR-4-LATHE-CHUCKS-3900-3306/353138653839?hash=item5238b43a8f:g:mLwAAOSwENFfDOrn

or

https://www.ebay.ie/itm/THREADED-M39-X-4-BACKPLATE-ADAPTER-FOR-6-3-OR-4-JAW-LATHE-CHUCKS-3900-3339/353138649011?hash=item5238b427b3:g:oawAAOSwkzJfDOdw

Any decent machine shop would be able to machine the adapter and drill/tap to mount the chuck body.

magicbastarder

JayZeus wrote: »

Ask and you shall receive:

http://www.cifall.se/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=491

Great company to deal with too.

would a paddle bit like that cause a lot of tearout, i wonder?

magicbastarder

Romer wrote: »

using a wire brush on a drill and it was a bit catastrophic. Too much speed, too little control, and after about 15 minutes my wrists were killing me.

a mains drill?
i recently stripped a bike frame using a wire brush on a battery drill (the dewalt one which woodies seem to do on special reasonably regularly) and it worked a treat.

magicbastarder

magicbastarder wrote: »

would a paddle bit like that cause a lot of tearout, i wonder?

It's what I thought also, but there's an even bigger version commonly used in the nordic countries to bore out the centre of kuksa cups. They're usually self-made but they work very well.

C.I. Fall are a really old drill bit maker from Sweden. Even today, their stuff is well respected. I have a couple of sets of their augers, a vintage set and a modern hex shanked set and they're very good. The swedes don't put up with crap for their woodworking

Romer

magicbastarder wrote: »

a mains drill?
i recently stripped a bike frame using a wire brush on a battery drill (the dewalt one which woodies seem to do on special reasonably regularly) and it worked a treat.

It was a battery one. One of the Milwaukees. I was removing lime plaster (and it just occurred to me that this is the Woodcraft zone) from a stone wall. The balls out spinning was taking me for a ride whereas what was needed was a gentle agitation. Not to worry, I'll figure something out.

kadman

JayZeus wrote: »

What's the lathe again?

And the chuck - Dimensions and mounting hole specs would be helpful.

First port of call for me in any case would be to email tony@lathes.co.** with the ** being 'uk' - Send him the specs and mounting dimensions and see if he can supply something 'turnkey' for you. He's good with things like that.

After that, I'd be looking for:

https://www.ebay.ie/itm/M39-X-4-THREADED-BACKPLATE-ADAPTER-FOR-4-LATHE-CHUCKS-3900-3306/353138653839?hash=item5238b43a8f:g:mLwAAOSwENFfDOrn

or

https://www.ebay.ie/itm/THREADED-M39-X-4-BACKPLATE-ADAPTER-FOR-6-3-OR-4-JAW-LATHE-CHUCKS-3900-3339/353138649011?hash=item5238b427b3:g:oawAAOSwkzJfDOdw

Any decent machine shop would be able to machine the adapter and drill/tap to mount the chuck body.

Thats what I am talking about........seems to be better options outside of Ireland, all the time.

I tried to give my business to home grown suppliers, but they cant even be bothered to reply to my e mails. Even though I would be spending mucho sheckles here.

I'll give that guy an e mail and see how things go.

Lathe is a centauro, had it for about 20 years. Thread size is M39 4pitch.Total length including outboard 12' I think.

Chuck would be large size as opposed to smaller. Bowl work from 22 " diameter inboard to 44" diameter outboard. Motor 3 hp with a Variable frequency drive controller.
Magic bit of kit.

Currently using a 3 jaw chuck which has catapulted the last 2 bowls this week,
upwards and outwards due to holding only by jaws. One yew one ash.

Needless to say I am pulling the last of my hair out. I am currently working on a 15" diameter monkey puzzle bowl...........fingers crossed.

kadman

I have already seen the two ebay items.
Thats a last resort, as i have to mess with us post, time ect.

And then get someone else to prep the adaptor to fit. I was hoping for a solution
that had a quicker outcome. And then when I have to get some machine shop to machine the adaptor
to the new lathe body, its just another element that I am worried about.

Any problem with eccentricity , the it becomes....it was not me its the US end, ect,ect,ect

Thats why I really wanted a home grown solution, but both major woodturning suppliers here
never even replied. Thats why I have lost total faith in an Irish outcome.

magicbastarder

Naas and tipp?

kadman

Donegal and Naas,

Just got an e mail from Naas, ha,ha,

magicbastarder

did they offer light at the end of the tunnel.

i have a bit of root from a holly tree on the lathe at the moment. i think it's actually kryptonite, not holly, i don't recall ever turning anything as hard as this.

kadman

They offered a Nova SN with a na adaptor that has to be passed on to someone else
for machining to fit my lathe. More messing.

Making inquiries now on a Vicmark or Oneway chuck, thats all ready to fit.

I turned loads of holly years back, but not the root.

All above ground holly was as soft as butter, and very unstable.

kadman

Current methgd of holding is a 3 jaw chuck backplate, screwed to the bowl base.
For obvious reasons its totally unsuitable, but all I have at the moment.







Recent monkey puzzle bowls.
https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=531362&stc=1&d=1604242086

Bowl in progress rough turned and not finished.

kadman

Contacted by Dave Chapman Mytools.ie.

He says he has never heard of M39 4 pitch, so he cannot help.

bamayang

Ah just buy a Vicmarc now and be done with it!!

kadman

bamayang wrote: »

Ah just buy a Vicmarc now and be done with it!!

Already contacted them, and waiting for a reply:P

kadman

Dave Chapman says Vicmark are M33 pitch 3.5

so its not suitable....

MickeyShtyles

I’ve a slab of Irish Yew that I’m in the middle of making into a coffee table. I’m just wondering what’d be the best finish for it?

kadman

Last piece of yew sculpture i worked on I gave it 8 coats of danish oil, wiped on.

I think it enriches the grain very well.

iamtony

Lovely shine off that. Was it just from Danish oil:eek:

I mustn't be using it correctly

kadman

iamtony wrote: »

Lovely shine off that. Was it just from Danish oil:eek:

I mustn't be using it correctly

Wipe on plenty. Leave it for 10 minutes, and wipe off excess.
Leave it in a warm room for 3 hours, and apply another coat, leave for 10 minutes, and wipe off excess.
leave in a warm room for 12 hours, and apply another coat, not excessively.
Leave for 12 hours and apply another coat, not excessively, rinse repeat every 12 hours as desired.

Yes its danish oil only on that piece, and if you are polishing yew, you should get a similar finish after 7-8 coats.

But other timbers may require more coats, depending on density of timber.

What are you polishing??

Romer

So I've got a mitre saw on the way and have a question I probably already know the answer to but just want confirmation. It's billed as a 254mm which is 10 inch. Now the first thing I want to do is change the 24 tooth blade because I think that's pointless (geddit?) on a mitre saw. But as I'm browsing replacement blades, 10 inch blades in Europe seem to go anywhere from 250-255mm.

Question is, I'm good to get anything in that range right?

glynf

Romer wrote: »

So I've got a mitre saw on the way and have a question I probably already know the answer to but just want confirmation. It's billed as a 254mm which is 10 inch. Now the first thing I want to do is change the 24 tooth blade because I think that's pointless (geddit?) on a mitre saw. But as I'm browsing replacement blades, 10 inch blades in Europe seem to go anywhere from 250-255mm.

Question is, I'm good to get anything in that range right?

Personally I would try to stay as close as possible to manufacturers recommended blade & kerf size, my thinking would be that it would be best to use a similar blade to what the saws motor rating, torque and rpm were designed for. 1-2 mm either way should not make much of a difference, I would try and keep the kerf size the same.


If the saw manufacturer is a bit saucy on the pricing, there are plenty of third party manufacturers like Trend and Freud etc, that would have an exact match of a blade. Have a look here.

magicbastarder

kadman wrote: »

Leave for 12 hours and apply another coat, not excessively, rinse repeat every 12 hours as desired.

do you rub it down at all between coats?

iamtony

kadman wrote: »

Wipe on plenty. Leave it for 10 minutes, and wipe off excess.
Leave it in a warm room for 3 hours, and apply another coat, leave for 10 minutes, and wipe off excess.
leave in a warm room for 12 hours, and apply another coat, not excessively.
Leave for 12 hours and apply another coat, not excessively, rinse repeat every 12 hours as desired.

Yes its danish oil only on that piece, and if you are polishing yew, you should get a similar finish after 7-8 coats.

But other timbers may require more coats, depending on density of timber.

What are you polishing??

nothing fancy or anything I've just used it on bits and pieces I've made. Mostly timber I've planed and sanded from rough wood myself, softwoods usually but recently a bit of mahogany Usually I use it for colour and then overcoat it with spray laquer.

Romer

glynf wrote: »

Personally I would try to stay as close as possible to manufacturers recommended blade & kerf size, my thinking would be that it would be best to use a similar blade to what the saws motor rating, torque and rpm were designed for. 1-2 mm either way should not make much of a difference, I would try and keep the kerf size the same.


If the saw manufacturer is a bit saucy on the pricing, there are plenty of third party manufacturers like Trend and Freud etc, that would have an exact match of a blade. Have a look here.

Thanks for that link. https://www.sautershop.com/circular-saw-blade-set-the-reds-254-set-3x254-30 is exactly what I was looking for.

magicbastarder

how do you store a chainsaw? as in, which orientation?
i've always stored mine sitting flat, but there's no issue with the oil draining out if you were to hang it up by the handle, is there?

magicbastarder

magicbastarder wrote: »

how do you store a chainsaw? as in, which orientation?
i've always stored mine sitting flat, but there's no issue with the oil draining out if you were to hang it up by the handle, is there?

It might weep bar oil a bit depending on how the pump works, but just leave the scabbard on it and it’ll generally be fine.

MickeyShtyles

magicbastarder wrote: »

how do you store a chainsaw? as in, which orientation?
i've always stored mine sitting flat, but there's no issue with the oil draining out if you were to hang it up by the handle, is there?

Normally just leave them under the bench on their flat. Usually a small bit of leakage. Their used often enough there’s not much.

kadman

How many of you woodturners out there are using grinders with CBN wheels.

Is there a supplier in Ireland, or UK. Any advice welcome, thanks.

K