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Aldi Ferrex table saw out tomorrow 15th October

  • 14-10-2020 7:09pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,801 ✭✭✭


    This place could do with a general thread. For these kind of questions.
    So tomorrow aldis Ferrex table saw is out. Its the similar cheapo design we're used to but looks like an upgrade to the einhell version I got on bargain alerts for 80.

    Anyway I see it has a different fence, a new clear blade guard and extendable table.

    You can see it here: https://www.aldi.ie/ferrex-table-saw-1800w/p/802593402745300

    I need a new blade for my existing tablesaw so that would cost me at least 30 euro. This comes with 2 blades. A rip blade and a cross cut blade. Does anyone have this improved version on this saw? I'm tempted to buy this and sell the old one for 50 on adverts and have a new saw and 2 blades.
    Is the fence connecting at both ends like a proper fence? The purposely take the photos so you can't see that so I'm guessing it's not. If anyone could confirm that would be great.

    On another note they also have a palm router and a digital pillar drill. The UK had all this last week plus an upgraded bandsaw with a wider throat compared to the usual offering its a shame we didn't get it cause its the one problem I have with mine.


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 549 ✭✭✭chillyspoon


    Don't fall for it! - spend half or a even a third of that 108 euro on a high quality blade for your existing Einhell and it will outperform the Ferrex with the inevitably crappy blades that it will come with. I put a 35 euro CMT blade into my Einhell and it's cutting fine. The fence is still a piece of junk.

    It's hard to tell from the photos because the new handle on the updated fence is styled to look like a front/rear locking fence but I really don't think it is - I'm sure it's the same front only lock that's on the Einhell, and I doubt there'll be much increased stability.

    Save the money and save up for a better saw!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 73,520 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    This is basically the same thing as the old model. Slightly restyled but no real improvements that I can see - apart from the extending sections, which will be guaranteed to not be level with the rest of it.

    They often have the same blades as you get with it for €12.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,801 ✭✭✭iamtony


    Don't fall for it! - spend half or a even a third of that 108 euro on a high quality blade for your existing Einhell and it will outperform the Ferrex with the inevitably crappy blades that it will come with. I put a 35 euro CMT blade into my Einhell and it's cutting fine. The fence is still a piece of junk.

    It's hard to tell from the photos because the new handle on the updated fence is styled to look like a front/rear locking fence but I really don't think it is - I'm sure it's the same front only lock that's on the Einhell, and I doubt there'll be much increased stability.

    Save the money and save up for a better saw!

    Yes I think your right on the fence. Very good marketing photos. I didnt get it in the end I'll try a decent blade off amazon instead.


  • Posts: 3,637 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    iamtony wrote: »
    Yes I think your right on the fence. Very good marketing photos. I didnt get it in the end I'll try a decent blade off amazon instead.

    Get a really good 250mm blade, or two. Worth spending money on as they’ll generally fit on a better saw if you get an opportunity to upgrade the Einhell sometime in the future. I have a few CMT and Freud blades for 15+ years now. Bought my first Freud rip blade to fit to a SIP ‘table saw’ bought in a moment of madness in McQuillans. It transformed the crap saw into a reasonably useful one, leaving the ill effects of the horrible fence aside. The very same blade sees regular use on my Makita 2704N, as do the others I picked up along the way. Money well spent. Not all well known brands of blades are good these days. There are a lot of bad quality chinese made Makita, Hitachi and DeWalt blades out there. Freud and CMT are made in Europe and they don’t cut corners (pardon the pun) so you won’t go wrong with those.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,801 ✭✭✭iamtony


    I had me eye on the frued one alright for reasonable money. Funny you mention makita. I've a makita chop saw and I replaced the blade with a genuine one at the same time as I got the einhell table saw and I cut beautifully at the start but didn't last any longer than the einhell one. I tried cleaning both up but didn't help.


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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,126 Mod ✭✭✭✭kadman


    iamtony wrote: »
    I had me eye on the frued one alright for reasonable money. Funny you mention makita. I've a makita chop saw and I replaced the blade with a genuine one at the same time as I got the einhell table saw and I cut beautifully at the start but didn't last any longer than the einhell one. I tried cleaning both up but didn't help.

    But did you get the right blade for the task in hand?

    No use in getting a top quality blade for general use, and expect it to
    perform excellently for both ripping hardwoods and sheet material. You
    may need a specific blade type.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 549 ✭✭✭chillyspoon


    Here are the two I use:

    CMT 285.060.10M -> cross cutting. One of their fine finish blades and works an absolute treat in conjunction with a crosscut sled. Comes in around 40 euro inc VAT.
    https://www.jjacksontools.com/en/industrial-rip-crosscut-saw-blades

    529588.jpg

    CMT 290.250.24M -> ripping. Part of their "portable machines" range, which I guess is technically accurate for my jobsite table saws. I've abused the hell out of this blade with 3m highly resinous red deal boards and rock hard over-seasoned beech, and it's still cutting fine - although a good wash is overdue for it. Comes in around 30 euro inc VAT.
    https://www.jjacksontools.com/en/rip-saw-blades-for-portable-machines

    529587.jpg

    For CMT stuff we're fortunate to have a knowledgeable family run business in Ireland, John Jackson in Kilcoole, Co. Wicklow; I just pick up the phone and call them when I need a blade, router bit or whatever. One of those situations where I'll happily pay a little (but not a huge amount) more than international internet prices, to keep the money in the country: https://www.jjacksontools.com/

    I've got various other narrow kerf and smaller blades for specific things, and - full disclosure - the best cut I've got on a laminated chip board and melamine kitchen worktop to date was with a new (i.e. sealed packet opened for the purpose) 80 tooth Parkside blade BUT it was blunt after 4 cuts (2x1.2m and 2x600mm), and that's where the cheap blades highlight themselves as cheap blades, where a quality blade would have kept on munching!


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,126 Mod ✭✭✭✭kadman


    Ì am all for keeping the money in the country regarding tools and all things.

    But to be honest I am slowly coming to the conclusion that the majority of Irish ( southern)
    companies I have dealt with, have left their manners and professionalism buried somewhere in the bog,
    once they have your money.

    Most of, if not all of the issues I have had with online companies, are irish based companies.
    As Joe Pesci says, " they **** you at the drive thru".

    Currently having an issue thats gone for paypal resolution with a large Irish based hardware outfit.
    That deemed it necessary to tell me of major delivery delays, AFTER I had made my purchase,
    and not before.

    For me thats the last straw with Irish companies. I will be shopping with either UK based and Northern Ireland,
    or preferably Germany. These companies respect the fact that you have chosen to buy from them.
    Irish companies seem to think they have a god given right to your money, with no service after.

    But I agree with chilly, right blade for the right job, and dont skimp on them wherever you buy.

    K


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 760 ✭✭✭Corkey123


    +1 for Jacksons in Kilcoole. A bit off the beaten path, but definitely my first port of call.

    Bought a cheap Plunge saw and replaced the blade with a CMT Orange tools blade - transformed the saw.

    Not sure they are any more expensive and they don't push the name brands like others do. But you will will get an honest view and in the long run a better product


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,801 ✭✭✭iamtony


    Thanks for all the advice lads, haven't actually purchased anything yet but I'll try get something decent like the ones mentioned above and report back results here.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 212 ✭✭Magic ]=)


    iamtony wrote: »
    Yes I think your right on the fence. Very good marketing photos. I didnt get it in the end I'll try a decent blade off amazon instead.

    I picked up that saw last week. After using similar Scheppach HS100S for last 3 years (still working except table got bent and fence is useless).
    Got it because it comes with much better fence then Lidl saw or Scheppach. Fence is much sturdier and accurate then what I've been using until now. It's locking front and back. Like you said you cannot see it on photos but it's good.

    As for the blades I got these on sale some time ago:

    https://www.screwfix.ie/p/freud-tct-circular-saw-blades-twin-pack-250-x-30mm-24-40t-2-pack/6419h

    Also got 60 tooth blade for mitre saw.Happy with all of them.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 549 ✭✭✭chillyspoon


    'Magic wrote:
    =);114989408']Got it because it comes with much better fence then Lidl saw or Scheppach. Fence is much sturdier and accurate then what I've been using until now. It's locking front and back.

    Wow, can you post a photo or two of the fence - I'd be interested to see what it looks like. I'm wondering if the rail at the front is the same and if there might be potential for retrofitting the new fence as a spare part to the older saws.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 212 ✭✭Magic ]=)


    I don't know what fence guide older model came with but here's few pics. Hope that helps.

    xDHm05Il.jpg
    0nXvw55l.jpg
    VV79iVOl.jpg
    pktH1kHl.jpg
    L558lNQl.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,051 ✭✭✭boomdocker


    'Magic wrote:

    As for the blades I got these on sale some time ago:

    https://www.screwfix.ie/p/freud-tct-circular-saw-blades-twin-pack-250-x-30mm-24-40t-2-pack/6419h

    Also got 60 tooth blade for mitre saw.Happy with all of them.

    Do you recommend those blades? was thinking of getting a pair

    Is the 40t good for cross cutting?


  • Posts: 3,637 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    boomdocker wrote: »
    Do you recommend those blades? was thinking of getting a pair

    Is the 40t good for cross cutting?

    Good blades alright and the price is very reasonable.

    40T is grand for cross cutting in general. I have a few similar spec 40T CMT Orange ones and use those for most cc work on the table saw or on the compound miter saw. I’d be just as happy with a Freud one.

    I have a 60T CMT for finer cc use and an 80T Freud Industrial blade with negative rake teeth and for what I use them for, they’re savage, but overkill and a lot of expense (for the Freud) if you just want a good blade to give a very clean cut on ply or very good cut on solid wood.

    Anyway, good combo pack there. I’d buy with some confidence.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 212 ✭✭Magic ]=)


    boomdocker wrote: »
    Do you recommend those blades? was thinking of getting a pair

    Is the 40t good for cross cutting?


    I'm not sure if I ever used the 40T after I got it. But it would be.
    I always used 24t for ripping on table saw and 60t on mitre saw full time.

    They're decent blades. I did a bit of research before I got them and many recommended them. Price was important too so when I came across that deal i got them. I recently resharpened them and they cut like new.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,801 ✭✭✭iamtony


    Ah now f&£k the lot of yis that was exactly want I wanted:mad:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 549 ✭✭✭chillyspoon


    'Magic wrote:
    =);114991165']I don't know what fence guide older model came with but here's few pics. Hope that helps.
    iamtony wrote: »
    Ah now f&£k the lot of yis that was exactly want I wanted:mad:

    With a front and back locking fence; I might have got one n'all - at that money it would save me from trying to put in an upgraded fence on the Einhell POS without having to bother working around the still slightly bent table.

    It highlights an interesting point - better marketing photos from Aldi and they could have had a couple more sales!!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,801 ✭✭✭iamtony


    With a front and back locking fence; I might have got one n'all - at that money it would save me from trying to put in an upgraded fence on the Einhell POS without having to bother working around the still slightly bent table.

    It highlights an interesting point - better marketing photos from Aldi and they could have had a couple more sales!!
    it's probably for the best I didnt get one. Money is tight as a taxi driver these days and I've 2 kids to sort for Christmas so you probably did me a favour:)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,801 ✭✭✭iamtony


    https://www.lidl.ie/en/p/tool-time-diy/portable-table-saw/p52795

    Lidls jobsite tablesaw next week. I wonder what the fence is like :)


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 549 ✭✭✭chillyspoon


    iamtony wrote: »
    https://www.lidl.ie/en/p/tool-time-diy/portable-table-saw/p52795

    Lidls jobsite tablesaw next week. I wonder what the fence is like :)

    I'm making no guesses based on crappy photos this time!!! ***running away*** :D:D:D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 212 ✭✭Magic ]=)


    I've used table saw with similar fence. RUBBISH. Found a bits left over from it.
    Basically you had two screws on each end that would have to be tightened to secure the fence to the table. This is another model used on budget saw but locking system is the same.

    Here's a pretty good review of Lidl saw: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nxDl-o7vnIU


    XMlag6rl.jpg
    RQPwqLMl.jpg
    MDDGr3vl.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,801 ✭✭✭iamtony


    "Magic wrote:
    =);115061853"]I've used table saw with similar fence. RUBBISH. Found a bits left over from it.
    Basically you had two screws on each end that would have to be tightened to secure the fence to the table. This is another model used on budget saw but locking system is the same.

    Here's a pretty good review of Lidl saw: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nxDl-o7vnIU


    XMlag6rl.jpg
    RQPwqLMl.jpg
    MDDGr3vl.jpg
    Jasus that looks awful.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,801 ✭✭✭iamtony


    "Magic wrote:
    =);114991165"]I don't know what fence guide older model came with but here's few pics. Hope that helps.

    xDHm05Il.jpg
    0nXvw55l.jpg
    VV79iVOl.jpg
    pktH1kHl.jpg
    L558lNQl.jpg
    Thats a much better fence than the older one. Dont think the rail is the same either.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 212 ✭✭Magic ]=)


    Ferrex fence is probably the best fence available on the budget saws these days.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 549 ✭✭✭chillyspoon


    iamtony wrote: »
    Jasus that looks awful.

    Yeah - that's the worst I've seen to date - junk!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 549 ✭✭✭chillyspoon


    'Magic wrote:
    =);115061853']I've used table saw with similar fence. RUBBISH. Found a bits left over from it.
    Basically you had two screws on each end that would have to be tightened to secure the fence to the table. This is another model used on budget saw but locking system is the same.

    Here's a pretty good review of Lidl saw: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nxDl-o7vnIU

    Bloody hell - that video could also be used as a demo for how to lose digits on a table saw -> free hand panel and crosscuts; yeah f**k it why not!

    :eek:

    530705.png

    530706.png


  • Posts: 3,637 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    That's an absolute piece of crap saw. As my granny always said, a fool and his money are easily parted.

    And speaking of fools, I knew I'd find something else in that ridiculously bad 'review' of said heap of dangerous junk.

    530744.jpg

    I'm not exaggerating, that sort of s*** and badly made power tool should be banned. Ridiculous stuff.

    And honestly, what the hell is wrong with people that they can't see that for themselves? Like, who buys this crap?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,801 ✭✭✭iamtony


    JayZeus wrote: »
    That's an absolute piece of crap saw. As my granny always said, a fool and his money are easily parted.

    And speaking of fools, I knew I'd find something else in that ridiculously bad 'review' of said heap of dangerous junk.

    530744.jpg

    I'm not exaggerating, that sort of s*** and badly made power tool should be banned. Ridiculous stuff.

    And honestly, what the hell is wrong with people that they can't see that for themselves? Like, who buys this crap?

    Don't hold back man. Tell us how you really feel:pac:

    I've the older version of this. I'm under no illusions it's a good saw but the real saws are just not in the budget for me and personally I don't find the cheap saw to be dangerous once proper precautions are taken. And i do get nice straight clean cuts most of the time even with the flexable fence. Not that I'm doing fine woodworking or anything.
    What I really dislike is the noise and the hard start up. I'd like a soft start and wish it didn't sound like I'm running a jet engine in the shed. Oh and I want a better fence.


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  • Posts: 3,637 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    I understand that perspective Tony, been there myself when funds are short. If you can make it work for you and you're alright with the additional risks inherent in using a table saw as bad as it is, that's fair enough I suppose.

    It's still a dangerous piece of crap saw though. I'd rather cut everything with a builders handsaw than use one. Especially for non-essential hobby stuff. Just not worth the risks.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,801 ✭✭✭iamtony


    JayZeus wrote: »
    I understand that perspective Tony, been there myself when funds are short. If you can make it work for you and you're alright with the additional risks inherent in using a table saw as bad as it is, that's fair enough I suppose.

    It's still a dangerous piece of crap saw though. I'd rather cut everything with a builders handsaw than use one. Especially for non-essential hobby stuff. Just not worth the risks.
    I just don't see how it is anymore dangerous than other table saws from personal experience. Granted I've never used another tablesaw but it's not like the blade is going to fly off and cut me in half or anything.
    Ive used the saw for lots of different projects, I've never had any kickback incidences. It produces clean repeatable straight cuts for the most part.
    The guy in that video clearly needs to learn how to use a tablesaw, my god he is stupid but I'm just not seeing how it is so dangerous?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,801 ✭✭✭iamtony


    Oh i just watched a bit of that video and realised it's about the portable saw which is different to the original saw but still if you use it properly i dont see the dangers myself.


  • Posts: 3,637 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    In case anyone's looking for a way into having an affordable tablesaw that's hands down better than the Lidl/Aldi 'stuff', this is an excellent design:



    The addition of a riving knife would be recommended, but overall, it's a good looking setup and in particular the fence system is easily built and shouldn't be beyond most peoples ability to make.

    That basic design, mounted to a cabinet loaded with some ballast would better most of the €250-300 saw options out there, IMHO. A circular saw, a drill and a jigsaw gets you most of the way to building it. Even the router isn't required if you use 1/2" ply and double it up for the top. I reckon a savvy shopper would put it together for €150 all-in with a good used Makita or similar type 190/210mm saw.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 212 ✭✭Magic ]=)


    I have used for a long time this sort of clamp/ guide on my table saw. Not the best set up but did the job. This are Lidls Parkside clamps guides. I think they were about E12

    uagWcGaaG9sbimjn2TCHOXkv_iFsbXh8MjScOVcmYbtOjxCijWnZaNH5U1A39R-E9djtbHOJxg4BNGJdDbm9u3G-1NRTRsUmJzKxr9BIGsF9m5yr-yclSlLioyD1JYwWsSgf5U4

    jxtm_2cXbLf39lO2NYK_pcDrD32BYSQHqUiYGFdf-6IJCDeNdfuM97uObwBTvW0geHf3XWNFzblkld3FWBZEd9FS2Ubauds2dwji8GhgoxRrYFBqyjgnmlOtjNhZeh8jONYG9pY


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,051 ✭✭✭boomdocker


    'Magic wrote:
    =);115002378']I'm not sure if I ever used the 40T after I got it. But it would be.
    I always used 24t for ripping on table saw and 60t on mitre saw full time.

    They're decent blades. I did a bit of research before I got them and many recommended them. Price was important too so when I came across that deal i got them. I recently resharpened them and they cut like new.

    Just an fyi

    Tried to get the Freud blades from the usual suppliers here but couldn't get what I wanted
    Eventually found the pair (24t/40t) at toolstop.co.uk - for €50 delivered via addresspal, whish is way cheaper than anywhere here


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