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Race Bikes With Large Tire Clearance

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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,491 ✭✭✭hesker


    Have you looked at the Rondo HVRT. It’s an aero road bike that can take 700c or 650b wheels supposedly allowing up to 47mm tyres.

    Top model is pricey but lower spec 105 is more affordable.

    https://www.bikeradar.com/reviews/rondo-hvrt-cf0-long-term-review/


  • Registered Users Posts: 469 ✭✭Zen0


    The Endurace CF SL comes with 28mm Conti GP 5000 tyres. The rim inners are wide so the tyres actually measure 30mm wide on the bike. There is clearance for wider. You would run 32mm wide tyres on it no problem. I have read posts which claim to run 35mm tyres on it, but I’d be wary of the clearance if the tyres were picking up crap that could rub on the frame. The rims will take tubeless tyres if I recall correctly.


  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    The DT Swiss wheels on the endurance are tubeless ready, but the tires it comes with are not.

    It will easily take 32mm turns though.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,563 ✭✭✭harringtonp


    https://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/focus-paralane-8.9-887674
    Focus Paralane 8.9. Full carbon frameset, full Ultegra groupset, tubeless ready wheels and tyres, space for 35mm tyres and claimed weight of 8.3kg. It also gets good reviews. Not sure if you can find it in local shops though so probably has to be bought online.

    Spent a bit of time reading up on this and it ticks all the boxes. Components seem decent, fairly standard and wheels alone are quite light for stock and cannot be found for less than 300 anywhere. Review at

    https://road.cc/content/review/218220-focus-paralane-ultegra

    Potential weight savings small though a bit could be found easily through the saddle and tires


  • Registered Users Posts: 9,305 ✭✭✭Macy0161


    I'd be checking the actual clearance too. 32mm Slicks/ small tread pattern does not necessarily translate to winter gravel tyres. A much older model defy admittedly, I can fit 32mm slicks, but even large volume 28mm Gravel slicks don't clear the frame.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,563 ✭✭✭harringtonp


    Tony04 wrote: »
    I think when us bike enthusiasts buy bikes its usually not a package as such, unless on a budget, but we are buying the bike for the frame. Merida and giant have undoubtedly the best bike frames for the price, excluding direct to comsumer brands, as they unlike other brands manufacturer their own as well as other brands frames, therefore theyre able to be alot cheaper while yet remain the same quality. If money is not an issue however id be looking at buying from a brand such as look who manufacture their own bikes on a smaller scale but to a very high stand thus no issues like creaky bbs.

    In terms of weighing without wheels, how do we know the defy wasnt weighed tubeless and hence a weight savaing. The best way to weigh is the frame to be honest. Ive seen every part adding weight apart from the groupets. Aluminium seatposts, 300g oem saddles, tyres etc.
    Alot of oem wheels on bikes are never the greatest and would benefit from an upgrade. It almost always works out cheaper to buy them yourself then buy the next model up.
    Wheels is a place where the value of direct to consumer brands like canyon etc shine as you usally get a decent not to heavy branded wheel.

    If I was just buying a frame weight would be a big factor if not the most important one.

    When buying a bike I always look for the frame weight and try and learn a little about its geometry. But you are after all buying a bike and if the bars, saddle, saddle post and stem are heavy or low quality you're looking at a lot of time and cost to rectify them. You will then end up with the original components lying round as they will most likely be hard to shift.

    Groupset wise I usually tune in to the Ultegra version initially but my experience in the past when switching components such as levers for 105 has been very little if any noticeable difference. I'd be therefore happy to purchase a 105 new bike if the price is good and would put up with the 300g weight penalty (knowing I can upgrade bits over time). Unlike bars, posts etc, most riders understand groupsets and know what they are dealing with.

    The reason I'm not overly concerned with the wheels is that wheels are easier to move on than any other bike part. Most riders also build up more than one set of wheels for a bike. In my case I'd either use the stock wheels for winter club spins or training or else try and sell them brand new. This is the reason I'd love to get a weight of potential bike purchases without the wheelset. If you're lucky enough to know a fellow club member who owns a model you're interested in you could easily bring a scales to your club spin, whip off his wheels and weigh !


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,563 ✭✭✭harringtonp


    Probably the best value I'm seeing so far for what I would like is the canyon endurace:

    https://www.canyon.com/en-ie/road-bikes/endurance-bikes/endurace/endurace-cf-sl-disc-8.0/2185.html

    or

    https://www.canyon.com/en-ie/road-bikes/endurance-bikes/endurace/endurace-cf-sl-disc-7.0/2396.html

    A big caveat is that there is enough frame clearance to take a 32mm gravel tire

    Assuming this is the case when you look into the components you see carbon bars (most other bikes linked in this thread have alu), good quality seatpost and seat and reputable wheels. They don't come with tubeless tires but you would move on brand new continental grand prix tires without any difficulty.

    If the quoted weights are accurate (Rose way under quote theirs, not sure about Canyon) the overall weight is a lot less than similar bikes in this price range. In terms of using it as a race backup bike, you could save up to 100g by upgrading the saddle (if you'll suffer a sore ass) and a good set of carbon 50mm aero wheels would also come in 100g lighter. And being Shimano it should take my left crank arm 4iii Ultegra power meter.


  • Registered Users Posts: 646 ✭✭✭Tony04



    When buying a bike I always look for the frame weight and try and learn a little about its geometry. But you are after all buying a bike and if the bars, saddle, saddle post and stem are heavy or low quality you're looking at a lot of time and cost to rectify them. You will then end up with the original components lying round as they will most likely be hard to shift.
    Id say on nearly half of bikes bought to be used by enthusiasts the stem will be changed out to the optimal length and/or the saddle to whatever one finds more comfortable.
    That just leaves you with the seatpost and handlebar. Imo you could upgrade to a carbon handlebar for maybe 200€, sonething like that is what could add 500€ to a 'premium' bike'.

    I agree upgrading the seatpost is stupid, unless there was a significant rrp saving on a bike.

    Although while yiu can defintley get a better bike for the price buy upgrading it yourself the best value way to buy a bike is on sale
    The reason I'm not overly concerned with the wheels is that wheels are easier to move on than any other bike part. Most riders also build up more than one set of wheels for a bike. In my case I'd either use the stock wheels for winter club spins or training or else try and sell them brand new. This is the reason I'd love to get a weight of potential bike purchases without the wheelset. If you're lucky enough to know a fellow club member who owns a model you're interested in you could easily bring a scales to your club spin, whip off his wheels and weigh !

    Agreed but youve got to remember cassettes discbrakes tyres and tubes easily make up 33% of a bike without adding wheels weight.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,491 ✭✭✭hesker


    hesker wrote: »
    Have you looked at the Rondo HVRT. It’s an aero road bike that can take 700c or 650b wheels supposedly allowing up to 47mm tyres.

    Top model is pricey but lower spec 105 is more affordable.

    https://www.bikeradar.com/reviews/rondo-hvrt-cf0-long-term-review/

    I think this bike meets all your criteria

    https://www.sigmasports.com/item/Rondo/HVRT-CF2-Disc-Road-Gravel-Bike-2020/OGHK


  • Registered Users Posts: 646 ✭✭✭Tony04


    Maybe a little bit overbudget and maybe the wrong size but this discounted defy pro 2 2020 looks good for the price.

    https://www.bunnyhop.de/GIANT-Defy-Advanced-Pro-2-2020.htm?a=article&ProdNr=GIA200008110&p=8

    Got a 5 star review and won endurance bike of the year
    https://www.bikeradar.com/reviews/bikes/road-bikes/giant-defy-advanced-pro-2-review-2/?image=2&type=gallery&gallery=0
    8.9 kg with weight to save in the tyres


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,563 ✭✭✭harringtonp


    Tony04 wrote: »

    Agreed but youve got to remember cassettes discbrakes tyres and tubes easily make up 33% of a bike without adding wheels weight.

    And by weighing a bike without the wheels you're removing all these from the equation. Disc brakes are new to me but if I was looking for a new rim brake bike and I could weight a candidate without the wheels I would know exactly how much extra weight my 50mm carbon wheelset would add... because I'd have already weighed it with tubes, cassette, skewers, valves, sealant...


  • Registered Users Posts: 646 ✭✭✭Tony04


    And by weighing a bike without the wheels you're removing all these from the equation. Disc brakes are new to me but if I was looking for a new rim brake bike and I could weight a candidate without the wheels I would know exactly how much extra weight my 50mm carbon wheelset would add... because I'd have already weighed it with tubes, cassette, skewers, valves, sealant...

    Im not that organised haha i would just be using the manufacturer's weight, in fact the only scales i have in my house is a baking scales.

    On the other hand id agree with bike manufacturers argument that its not all about weight. Id rather buy a bike with a slightly better ride quality if it meant using slightly more material. Id also would rather have a slightly heavier frame for the price if it meant other parts of manufacturing werent overlooked like decent cable routing that doesnt rattle and a decent bb that doesnt creak and an easy to replace standard .


    I believe theres a misconception between weight and cheap bikes. Usally the heavy bikes we have ridden are cheap or old and are a lot slower, bringing us to the conclusion the added weight is slowing us down when in fact theres a lot of other factors like cheap tyres etc. Ive heard of lads winning races on 10kg bikes.


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 6,831 Mod ✭✭✭✭eeeee


    Tony04 wrote: »
    <snip>

    I believe theres a misconception between weight and cheap bikes. Usally the heavy bikes we have ridden are cheap or old and are a lot slower, bringing us to the conclusion the added weight is slowing us down when in fact theres a lot of other factors like cheap tyres etc. Ive heard of lads winning races on 10kg bikes.

    A teammate rode from A4 to 1 point off A2 in one season on a hybrid with drop bars on. It was magnificent!


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,563 ✭✭✭harringtonp


    Revisiting this thread. Had made my mind up on

    https://www.canyon.com/en-ie/road-bikes/endurance-bikes/endurace/endurace-cf-sl-disc-7.0/2396.html

    but they've been out of stock for months and don't look like coming back in anytime soon.

    I like the idea of

    https://www.giant-bicycles.com/ie/defy-advanced-2

    The comfort aspect and 35mm clearance are big plusses. The 9.1kg weight put me off initially but I drilled down into what constitutes that and realized that the following easy savings are there to be had:

    - https://www.bicycles.net.au/forums/viewtopic.php?t=101009 suggests 500g+ weight saving can be got through good wheels

    - Tyres are 440g each. Putting lightweight tubeless 25mm tires on a fast wheelset would probably save you close to another 400g

    - The cheaper crankset they use is 908g. A shimano 105 R7000 11s Compact weights 713g and can be purchased for around 150 euro.

    Add that all up and you're over a kilo giving a bike weight of about 8kg. Even though the stock wheels are heavy I get what they are about. They seem perfect for winter spins with the tires having great puncture protection and designed with some off road in mind. I could see myself keeping them for winter and some light off road use and then changing to the lighter wheelset in summer months.

    Does anyone have this bike and how do they find it ? Reviewers aren't keen on the saddle, it looks like a standard 2 rail which can be easily swapped out, can anyone confirm ?


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,825 ✭✭✭fat bloke


    What size are you?

    Lots of nice looking advanced defy's on Donedeal.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,563 ✭✭✭harringtonp


    fat bloke wrote: »
    What size are you?

    Lots of nice looking advanced defy's on Donedeal.

    I'm 187cm (6.2) and midway in the range for the L frame. I'd be at the very top of the range for the ML


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,825 ✭✭✭fat bloke




  • Registered Users Posts: 874 ✭✭✭byrnem31


    Revisiting this thread. Had made my mind up on

    https://www.canyon.com/en-ie/road-bikes/endurance-bikes/endurace/endurace-cf-sl-disc-7.0/2396.html

    but they've been out of stock for months and don't look like coming back in anytime soon.

    I like the idea of

    https://www.giant-bicycles.com/ie/defy-advanced-2

    The comfort aspect and 35mm clearance are big plusses. The 9.1kg weight put me off initially but I drilled down into what constitutes that and realized that the following easy savings are there to be had:

    - https://www.bicycles.net.au/forums/viewtopic.php?t=101009 suggests 500g+ weight saving can be got through good wheels

    - Tyres are 440g each. Putting lightweight tubeless 25mm tires on a fast wheelset would probably save you close to another 400g

    - The cheaper crankset they use is 908g. A shimano 105 R7000 11s Compact weights 713g and can be purchased for around 150 euro.

    Add that all up and you're over a kilo giving a bike weight of about 8kg. Even though the stock wheels are heavy I get what they are about. They seem perfect for winter spins with the tires having great puncture protection and designed with some off road in mind. I could see myself keeping them for winter and some light off road use and then changing to the lighter wheelset in summer months.

    Does anyone have this bike and how do they find it ? Reviewers aren't keen on the saddle, it looks like a standard 2 rail which can be easily swapped out, can anyone confirm ?

    I have the defy advanced 2 2020. I have upgraded the crankset to 105. The pr2s are absolute crap that they come with. I've had issues with mine since I bought it. Giant have admitted that the rear hubs were being over tightened on them in the factory. The mechanic I use can't get the faulty one off.

    I have upgraded the wheels to hunt areos 33s. I use the stock wheels for gravel riding. Today I got a set of aero bars on it so I'm finished upgrading it.

    Its a seriously comfortable bike that climbs very well and is very fast when needed. I could sit on it for hours. I'm holding onto mine for a long while. Its about 3 1/2 k of bike which is more than enough for me.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,825 ✭✭✭fat bloke


    One possibility worth considering - instead of coming at it from the road bike angle that can occasionally take gravelly wheels, how about a cross bike that will take road wheels?
    I used a focus mares cx as a winter trainer for 2 years and found it an absolutely magnificent bike to ride on the road. It was full carbon so it was properly light, handled beautifully on the roads. I did a Westport sportive on it as quickly and comfortably as I would have on any road bike.
    If I was forced to have one bike and only one bike, something like this, with a couple of sets of wheels makes a tremendous case for itself.

    full_2021_inflite-cf-slx-9-team_bk-mc_2658_P5-ee78c21.jpg?quality=45&resize=768,574


  • Registered Users Posts: 274 ✭✭violator13


    That’s a good idea about the cross bike option -I’m using a carbon giant revolt gravel bike on and off road with different wheels . Key also is a double chainset . It weighs 8.8 kg with pedals so doesn’t hold me back


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  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,525 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    Cube Cross Race C62, either the Pro or the Sl version.

    For the SL you will need new tyres and a new chainring on top of the RRP, €2950 all in, will weigh 8.1kg when done

    For the Pro, lesser specced components but same alterations, €2450 all in, will weight 8.7kg


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,563 ✭✭✭harringtonp


    fat bloke wrote: »
    One possibility worth considering - instead of coming at it from the road bike angle that can occasionally take gravelly wheels, how about a cross bike that will take road wheels?
    I used a focus mares cx as a winter trainer for 2 years and found it an absolutely magnificent bike to ride on the road. It was full carbon so it was properly light, handled beautifully on the roads. I did a Westport sportive on it as quickly and comfortably as I would have on any road bike.
    If I was forced to have one bike and only one bike, something like this, with a couple of sets of wheels makes a tremendous case for itself.

    full_2021_inflite-cf-slx-9-team_bk-mc_2658_P5-ee78c21.jpg?quality=45&resize=768,574

    I made contact and then took one of the Giant Defy Pro Ones that you linked above for a test ride. Beautiful bike in good as new condition but learnt that ML is just too small for me. Back to looking but thankfully it's really next winter I want something for. Others have highly recommended the inflite as an all round versatile bike too. Hopefully stock levels will be more normal towards the end of the year.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,563 ✭✭✭harringtonp


    You look at Canyon's inflite range and only two have twin rings:

    https://www.canyon.com/en-ie/road-bikes/cyclocross-bikes/inflite/inflite-cf-sl-7/2656.html

    And these are 46/36. While suited for CX, a 50/34 would make the bike a lot more versatile. They're missing a trick there, one would think.


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