Solar PV Hints, Tips & Troubleshooting

graememk

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120546934#Comment_120546934

I don't think you get a reply know other than it's received when you send it in via email, don't think you get anything via post unless it's rejected

DC999

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120546985#Comment_120546985

I got a copy of the email confirmation from ESB to my installer. I got nothing from EBS directly. That was 8 months ago (installer was 2 months late submitting it until I asked to see a copy of the ESB confirmation).

Jonathan

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120546035#Comment_120546035

Other thing to check is the cable rating back to the consumer unit. You'd get away with 2.5mm² and 16A MCB on the 3.6kW. 6kW will need 6mm² and 32A MCB.

graememk

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120547490#Comment_120547490

4 is likely fine for 6kw, that's what my installer used. But sounds like a case of the wrong box being picked up.

Officer Giggles

If I'm getting both PV and A2W installed, is there any point getting a diverter if the A2W can heat the water anyway and will be powered by the PV. Is one method any more efficient than the other?

DC999

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120575121#Comment_120575121

The heatpump is more efficient as there is a COP multiplier. 1 unit of electricity gives more than 1 unit of heat.

A diverter only feeds the immersion so it's a 1 to 1 ratio of electricity to heat. Meaning it's lower efficiency than the option above. Scrap the diverter and spend the money on more panels instead. We get paid ~20c a kWh that is sent back to the grid (once you're a smart meter), so you're better off getting the credit. The hot water diverter will never break even.

In the months when solar output is low, you can get use the cheap night rate and heat the hot water from the heatpump then. Assuming it's a well insulated tank that won't lose much heat during the day.

Officer Giggles

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120575494#Comment_120575494

Thanks for that, it's exactly along the lines I was thinking myself but just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something obvious

harvindhillon

Does anyone know how I can check the grant process?

My BER report was delayed due to the BER inspector having a baby so it was only done 1.5 month after initial installation. The installation was done 20th Jan, BER issues 4th April. I checked the only application and can see that all documentation has been uploaded from the installer 26 days ago.

There is no real way to check status. I have basically 1.5 more months before the grant application expires. Any idea how I can check if there are issues etc.. with it? There seem to be no contact form anywhere on the application portal.

DC999

You should be able to contact SEAI and ask for an update. Can’t remember their grant portal – does it allow you ask for info somewhere in the portal? If not, their emails to you or website should have contact info. If it’s with SEAI for 5 weeks since the BER was submitted, I’d assume it’s reasonable they allow you that additional time before the grant application would expire.

You should have something from @mail.seai.ie explaining the process from when you submitted the grant application (assuming you submitted it). Their website should have info on how to request more info on a grant application that has a submitted BER. 

For the car charger grant I got automated emails at different stages, including when it was X months from expiring. And they gave an email to contact in those - but would be a different team for the solar than EV chargers, so no point me sharing that. 

I was close to the deadline waiting on the installer to submit docs and they gave me this reply (for my car charger, not solar): ‘Unfortunately, we do not offer extensions. We do give a grace period of 2 weeks after expiry date. Anymore than that and you will need to send a letter of Appeal and it will be escalated to our Appeals Panel.’

harvindhillon

Thanks, I reached out to SEAI using their contact page. Let's see what happens, :) I will update when i get any response.

Colm82

Would it be unusual for my sokar/eddi hot water to allow warm water into the feed and return pipes that go to my stove? Have only just noticed it today but may always have been that way. If it matters I put 11kw into the cylinder today from the eddi/solar and have a joule 300l well master hwc.

tnegun

It will heat the coil in the cylinder and create a small amount of circulation. How far from the cylinder are you seeing it? Any chance a pipe stat on a circulation pump is closing?

graememk

There will be a bit of circulation/convection.

But I don't think there is any major circulation.

Is your tank close to the stove

Is it hot hot or just warm?

Colm82

I'm feeling both pipes in the hot press and the return pipe is warmer than the feed. Feed is luke warm and the return is reasonably warm. My pump is actually in my pellet stove boiler. I don't have a pump at my hwc. Tank is about 12 metres from the stove, the pipes are going up from the hwc across the attic and down the back of the stove.

graememk

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120640745#Comment_120640745

12 m is a bit far for simple conduction.

I'm not sure how pellet stoves are controlled, but does a pipe stat trigger the pump?

Can you turn the stove off?

samdeluxjones

I'm getting hint alarm every day in the fine weather for grid over voltage.

Nothing happens apart from the notification on the phone.

Should I be bothered about this, and is there a way of stopping it?

silver_sky

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120653402#Comment_120653402

what spec is the system you have? may be too many panels

bullit_dodger

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120655073#Comment_120655073

Unlikely the panels.....

I'm getting hint alarm every day in the fine weather for grid over voltage.

Did you look at the telemetry for what the grid voltage is over a period of (say) 48 hrs ? Something like...

Basically in Ireland the grid voltage is allowered to be 230 +/- 10%, so as low as 208v and as high as 253v. If your hitting 254v it doesn't mean that things will suddenlt start going BANG(tm), but it does indicate that the supply your getting is technically not within service level agreement. This normally happens when you are close (or perhaps) the 1st house nearest to the substation/transformer.

If it's an issue, you can in theory get ESB to fix it. Takes a few hoops I believe. Someone on the forums did this 12-18 months ago and got their over voltage fixed.

silver_sky

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120655195#Comment_120655195

Oops, I should have read it slower.

championc

AFAIK, the newer EN50549 Standard now permits +/- 15%

graememk

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120656357#Comment_120656357

Which is about 264v

samdeluxjones

255 seemed to be the highest yesterday

samdeluxjones

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120656357#Comment_120656357

Ah ok, mine is on EN50438L.

EN50549 has SW, NL & PO, does it matter which one of those is selected?

championc

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120656465#Comment_120656465

I think you can pick any. Maybe go with NL

bullit_dodger

According to their own website EN50160 is the current....

Voltage Issues (esbnetworks.ie)

ESB Networks delivers electricity in a voltage range of 207 Volts to 253 Volts. This is in accordance with European Standard EN50160.

That's not to say that their own website is correct and up to date with the latest information. I mean it wouldn't be the first time - LOL. Just saying.......

I guess you could pick another grid standard to circumvent the alarm. Can't think of a massive downside if the inverter supports it, but considering the inverter puts out a few volts higher than the grid, so that your applications/devices in the house use the inverter current over the grid. Conceivably if your grid is coming in at (say) 255v ... then you inverter could be rocking out 258v (or something). Which means that your devices in the house will be taking that 258v etc, and/or your neighbors.... if your exporting. Just something to consider.

ELM327

Yes that was the first thing I had to do. Change the standard due to constant over voltage alarms. We are rural so during the day the voltage ranges from 210 to 255 or higher. Depending on what farmer is doing what, I guess.

samdeluxjones

OK I changed to EN50549NL, see what happens..

While I was in the setting I went through all the standards and saw ESB MINI, ESB MICRO & EN5049IE.

They are definitely new as not there before, they apply to us?

waterwelly

My myenergi app is showing the same readings the last few days. Anybody know how to do a reset please?

I've seen the answer posted before but can't find it?

samdeluxjones

This was put on another thread by a mod.

EN 50549 Solis 1P(5G-S6 0.7-3.6) mini IR-3.pdf

Alarm just went off again, going to edit parameters of over voltage to 269v

samdeluxjones

Here is ESB Micro and they look about right so have changed to this see what happens..