Soundproof Window from Seagulls

Kondo69

My heart is broken with seagulls making noise from 4am every morning. It's nesting season as far as I know and it will only get worse.
I've tried:
- ear plugs
- sealing the windows for air pockets
- stuffing a mattress into the window frame
- using heavy curtains

Can anyone recommend a solution that has recently worked for them? Please and thanks.

Yellow_Fern

Kondo69 wrote: »

My heart is broken with seagulls making noise from 4am every morning. It's nesting season as far as I know and it will only get worse.
I've tried:
- ear plugs
- sealing the windows for air pockets
- stuffing a mattress into the window frame
- using heavy curtains

Can anyone recommend a solution that has recently worked for them? Please and thanks.

Id look at whole wall approach rather than just windows. Depending on your budget, get a sound proofing company. They are pricey but if too expensive you should get a lot done cheaper by non specialists provided understand the concepts and you can oversee the work.
BTW do you curtains hit the floor? Are they brushing off the walls? That helps, especially with black out curtains and it is a very cheap measure.

Gumbo

Kondo69 wrote: »

My heart is broken with seagulls making noise from 4am every morning. It's nesting season as far as I know and it will only get worse.
I've tried:
- ear plugs
- sealing the windows for air pockets
- stuffing a mattress into the window frame
- using heavy curtains

Can anyone recommend a solution that has recently worked for them? Please and thanks.

Move house.
I guarantee you after spending 20k on sound upgrades, you’ll still hear them.

Kondo69

Gumbo wrote: »

Move house.
I guarantee you after spending 20k on sound upgrades, you’ll still hear them.

But the sound is actually just coming in the window, surely there must be some solution?

BryanF

How old are the windows?

Did you build the house?

Kondo69

BryanF wrote: »

How old are the windows?

Did you build the house?

They look maybe 10 years old? It's a wood sash window. I think there must be a solution, if the sound was coming through the walls or ceiling I'd accept it given the cost but it's just the window. No I did not build it.

writhen

Secondary glazing.

sydthebeat

have you wall vents?

Gumbo

Kondo69 wrote: »

But the sound is actually just coming in the window, surely there must be some solution?

No way is the sound “just” coming in the windows.
Sound will travel through block work, vents etc

BryanF

quality of seals on the windows, and their alignment would be relevant also

Kondo69

Can you recommend a company for secondary glazing? The noise is just coming from the same place, the window

Who2

Secondary glazing is a pure disaster, you’ll have sweating and condensation issues and the frames will be rotten in no time. Replacing the windows and using triple glazing should sort out the issue if everything around it is right.

Kondo69

thank you

booooonzo

Not sure with wood sash windows but secondary glazing definitely works, just removed it as part of our renovation and notice the difference in sound from road noise. there was no condensation previously

nthclare

It's worse here I've golden eagles screening in the afternoon, fckers are always like live drone's looking for kid goats...

Seagulls aren't as bad

Kondo69

nthclare wrote: »

It's worse here I've golden eagles screening in the afternoon, fckers are always like live drone's looking for kid goats...

Seagulls aren't as bad

Have you tried to block out the noise?

Kondo69

booooonzo wrote: »

Not sure with wood sash windows but secondary glazing definitely works, just removed it as part of our renovation and notice the difference in sound from road noise. there was no condensation previously

Do you have any idea of what it might cost to put one window in? 50cm x 90cm

Yellow_Fern

Kondo69 wrote: »

Do you have any idea of what it might cost to put one window in? 50cm x 90cm

There are also specially acoustically resistant windows. You could call a window company but sound experts would be more neutral.

n97 mini

Who2 wrote: »

Secondary glazing is a pure disaster, you’ll have sweating and condensation issues and the frames will be rotten in no time. Replacing the windows and using triple glazing should sort out the issue if everything around it is right.

We have triple glazed windows. We were told before we bought them they do not block out sound, that if we want to block out sound we need to get windows designed to block sound. And now that we have them they're not sound proof.

OP, if you're replacing the window, make sure you tell the supplier it's for sound proofing purposes, not energy efficiency.

Kondo69

n97 mini wrote: »

We have triple glazed windows. We were told before we bought them they do not block out sound, that if we want to block out sound we need to get windows designed to block sound. And now that we have them they're not sound proof.

OP, if you're replacing the window, make sure you tell the supplier it's for sound proofing purposes, not energy efficiency.

If not triple glaze windows what should I ask for, or are they just called sound proof windows?

Thanks

Who2

Kondo69 wrote: »

If not triple glaze windows what should I ask for, or are they just called sound proof windows?

Thanks

Regardless of whats being said, i can assure you the majority of triple glazed windows correctly installed will be as close to sound proof as you will get. You are not going to block out all sounds 100% but will definately block the sound of seagulls to what should be an acceptable level.
I'm not guessing or surmising, its the area i work within.

n97 mini

Kondo69 wrote: »

If not triple glaze windows what should I ask for, or are they just called sound proof windows?

Thanks

Just specify you want to change for sound proofing purposes.

John_Rambo

nthclare wrote: »

It's worse here I've golden eagles screening in the afternoon, fckers are always like live drone's looking for kid goats...

Seagulls aren't as bad

Golden eagles are pretty quiet, their cries are weak with a cough at the end. You're most likely hearing buzzards or kites.

OP, if the gulls, which are most likely Herring gulls haven't yet laid eggs a hawk kite on a long pole might work. If they've already laid the kite might just frustrate them further.

Atlantic Dawn

Are they landing in a specific area or airborne when you are hearing them? If landing try bird spikes.

Kondo69

They have set up nests on the roof of the building across from me so nothing can be done there until the chicks hatch. They use my balcony as a toilet and i can get over that but its the 5am noise that's the worst. Neighbours from hell.

booooonzo

Kondo69 wrote: »

Do you have any idea of what it might cost to put one window in? 50cm x 90cm

There are loads of different types. do you can about looks, remove ability, weight, ease of cleaning, opening for ventilation etc..

Sometime the weakness can be in the frame (although yours might be solid wood?)

if they are sash do you have a deep internal reveal?
if so , use that to your advantage.
A large air gap is the best thing you can have for sound attenuation.




the ones i have taken out are 50cm x 140cm I think.
you can have them if they suited and you were in the west

macannrb

Who2 wrote: »

Regardless of whats being said, i can assure you the majority of triple glazed windows correctly installed will be as close to sound proof as you will get. You are not going to block out all sounds 100% but will definately block the sound of seagulls to what should be an acceptable level.
I'm not guessing or surmising, its the area i work within.

how does the layman know that the installer will install the windows correctly? Not being cheeky, just would like to get an understanding as I am looking to get windows installed and the installation part is the bit I am most worried about as I don't know how to tell if a job is good or bad.

Cheers

Who2

macannrb wrote: »

how does the layman know that the installer will install the windows correctly? Not being cheeky, just would like to get an understanding as I am looking to get windows installed and the installation part is the bit I am most worried about as I don't know how to tell if a job is good or bad.

Cheers

Are they refits (replacements)or into new openings?
And to the question of cost of sliding sash windows : most run at 600-1000 each depending on spec, nearly all window companies charge a single job rate so it’s usually nearly as cheap to replace 2 windows as it is one.

macannrb

They are replacements. I'm thinking triple glaze because of the job cost means you get more benefit from the extra spend. But also Upvc as the image doesn't matter all that much. im likely to do dry lining at the same time also.

Any advice pointers would be great - cheers

Who2

macannrb wrote: »

They are replacements. I'm thinking triple glaze because of the job cost means you get more benefit from the extra spend. But also Upvc as the image doesn't matter all that much. im likely to do dry lining at the same time also.

Any advice pointers would be great - cheers

If your doing dry lining at the same time it’ll make it easier to fit as inside reveals can be fully removed.
Ensure the windows are well bitten behind the external reveal, old silicon is removed and windows are sealed out tight. Try to ensure they have minimal packing under the bottom of the window, only the bare minimum to allow for off level calls, again if the window board and internal reveals are removed it’s easier. Get them to use a proper bedding mastic under the window and ensure windows are all plumb and level in every direction. Get them to foam completely around the top and two sides. It’s actually better to have a small gap of 10mm around window between it and the cavity closers so that a bead of foam can be done, however sometimes block work is just desperate and unachievable. If the block work is clean air tightness tape is a good idea if it’s done right, done wrong and your just throwing away money. The main issue I see around Dublin is the windows are made small of the reveals then pushed in and siliconed around or ugly slips just stuck on.
Make sure they have plenty of straps on the window but I personally like them direct fixed if the profile allows for it.

Yellow_Fern

Who2 wrote: »

If your doing dry lining at the same time it’ll make it easier to fit as inside reveals can be fully removed.
Ensure the windows are well bitten behind the external reveal, old silicon is removed and windows are sealed out tight. Try to ensure they have minimal packing under the bottom of the window, only the bare minimum to allow for off level calls, again if the window board and internal reveals are removed it’s easier. Get them to use a proper bedding mastic under the window and ensure windows are all plumb and level in every direction. Get them to foam completely around the top and two sides. It’s actually better to have a small gap of 10mm around window between it and the cavity closers so that a bead of foam can be done, however sometimes block work is just desperate and unachievable. If the block work is clean air tightness tape is a good idea if it’s done right, done wrong and your just throwing away money. The main issue I see around Dublin is the windows are made small of the reveals then pushed in and siliconed around or ugly slips just stuck on.
Make sure they have plenty of straps on the window but I personally like them direct fixed if the profile allows for it.

Is it important to use a closed cell foam which would be more airtight and I guess sound tight?