Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie
Please note that it is not permitted to have referral links posted in your signature. Keep these links contained in the appropriate forum. Thank you.

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2055940817/signature-rules
Hi there,
There is an issue with role permissions that is being worked on at the moment.
If you are having trouble with access or permissions on regional forums please post here to get access: https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058365403/you-do-not-have-permission-for-that#latest

Preventive maintenance on 316d E90

  • 15-02-2020 2:04pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 43


    Hello Bimmers,

    Could someone with experience watch and listen to that video until the end of the E90 Diesel Engine sound and let me know if that sounds normal?

    https://youtu.be/u6sY0BOUB_w

    It's cold start after 1.5 day. I feel it's loud and somehow there is some weird noise but probably I am just overthinking this.

    Keep in mind, 190k miles and never replaced timing chain

    Thanks


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,072 ✭✭✭pjmn


    Not a mechanic, but had a 520d that sounded like that for a while - then the crankshaft pulley wheel sheared off and I discovered the source of the noise! Might be worth checking that out.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 43 Shah91n


    Hello,

    I would really use an advise from experienced people. I have been reading a lot and it gets me to worry so I wanted to ask if I should start spend some money to prevent engine disaster in the future. Car is on 190k Miles very high 315k (2011).

    Up till now what I read that could cause disaster are (Hopefully this only as maybe not limited too, please mention more if you think :( ):

    1- Waterpump + its Thermostat
    2- Crankshaft Pullys
    3- Serpentive Belt

    I do have service history of the car from BMW but I do not find any of this done there also seems that BMW and other mechanic wont do any preventive job, they just fix what it's broken. Usually normal service were done on car since day one.

    However, do you really think I should start changing these right away? so far there are no sign of failures, as I see car is running fine and no noise or cracking or similar!!! I even video the sound as not sure if it's bad or normal (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u6sY0BOUB_w) however I do not want end up with a disaster while driving

    One last thing, if I should change them, is it doable as DIY or you think I should go to mechanic (They will charge a lot for this :confused: I believe)

    Any recommendation?

    Regards


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 43 Shah91n


    pjmn wrote: »
    Not a mechanic, but had a 520d that sounded like that for a while - then the crankshaft pulley wheel sheared off and I discovered the source of the noise! Might be worth checking that out.

    I hope nothing expensive because seems crazy prices with BMW :(


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,292 ✭✭✭TheBoyConor


    If the parts are working fine then what is the point in changing them? Sounds a bit anxiety led and silly like the way that fella with the fiesta was wondering what parts he should change to extend it's life even though it was NCT'd and running perfectly.

    Just drive it away. If one of the parts needs to be replaced then the car will let you know of it by stopping. The only part i'd change worth changing on a schedule is the timing belt.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 43 Shah91n


    If the parts are working fine then what is the point in changing them? Sounds a bit anxiety led and silly like the way that fella with the fiesta was wondering what parts he should change to extend it's life even though it was NCT'd and running perfectly.

    Just drive it away. If one of the parts needs to be replaced then the car will let you know of it by stopping. The only part i'd change worth changing on a schedule is the timing belt.

    You are right, it's a bit of Anxiety where you read people's comment and experience it makes you feel that your car will fall apart soon. My car was NCT'd and passed from first time even perfect emissions and all. I just want to keep the car running for 2 to 3 years more and BMW are way too expensive if something break therefore I wanted to prevent the issues. However you are right, I will drive until the car shows me else, I will keep positive


  • Advertisement
  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,292 ✭✭✭TheBoyConor


    Apart from timing belts, it makes no economic sense to replace parts before they are actually needing replacement. You paid enough for the car, sweat the asset and every last part in it in order to get best value from it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 43 Shah91n


    Apart from timing belts, it makes no economic sense to replace parts before they are actually needing replacement. You paid enough for the car, sweat the asset and every last part in it in order to get best value from it.

    It has timing chain as it's diesel. However you are right. Thanks a lot :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,789 ✭✭✭wandererz


    Shah91n wrote: »
    It has timing chain as it's diesel. However you are right. Thanks a lot :)

    OP, that's bad advice. He provides the same bad advice to other threads as well.

    There are items that if fail can blow your engine & that's effectively the end of your car.

    One item that is known to fail are the swirl flaps. If it breaks it gets sucked into the engine & destroys it.

    Another is the oil breather filter. This should be changed to a vortex type. Even if it has one, it should be changed every 3-4 oil changes.

    If doing the swirl flaps, the Vortex filter should be changed at the same time as the manifold will be opened up at the time. Also there are 4 cylinder gaskets which can be changed at the same time.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 43 Shah91n


    wandererz wrote: »
    OP, that's bad advice. He provides the same bad advice to other threads as well.

    There are items that if fail can blow your engine & that's effectively the end of your car.

    One item that is known to fail are the swirl flaps. If it breaks it gets sucked into the engine & destroys it.

    Another is the oil breather filter. This should be changed to a vortex type. Even if it has one, it should be changed every 3-4 oil changes.

    If doing the swirl flaps, the Vortex filter should be changed at the same time as the manifold will be opened up at the time. Also there are 4 cylinder gaskets which can be changed at the same time.

    Much appreciate the advise, I noted that parts :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,789 ✭✭✭wandererz


    Also, the higher the mileage, the sooner the oil service.

    So, rather than every 10,000 miles, perhaps every 5 or 6000 miles for an oil & oil filter change. You should be able to do this easily enough yourself.


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 43 Shah91n


    wandererz wrote: »
    Also, the higher the mileage, the sooner the oil service.

    So, rather than every 10,000 miles, perhaps every 5 or 6000 miles for an oil & oil filter change. You should be able to do this easily enough yourself.

    Yeah I watched online and seems easy, I did change oil before on Skoda, was pretty straightforward but never on BMW but seems same thing to be honest.

    I will definitely change it earlier than recommended.

    Thank you very much


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,060 ✭✭✭Sexual Chocolate


    Just make sure it's LL04 spec oil that you use.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,789 ✭✭✭wandererz


    Engine sounds fine to me. Difficult to tell though, being diesel there's so much clatter. But sounds normal.

    At that mileage, you are right to have the belts looked at & changed if possible. It depends on your level of experience.
    I leave it in to get that done. If they haven't been changed I would suggest you do so. Rubber degrades over time & with use.

    One other thing I would recommend is getting the transmission/gearbox oil changed as well. Recommended at 50,000 miles. Doesn't cost much - about €50-€60 at a gearbox specialist.
    Could prevent huge bills in replacing the gearbox if it fails, which could be more than the value of the car.
    If you want to do it yourself, here's an example for a manual gearbox.
    https://youtu.be/RVGhI6zVBQ8

    If you prefer to have someone else do it then I would recommend Ace Clutch & Gearbox in Dublin 15 (if you are in the Dublin area).

    For other work that you cannot do yourself, i would suggest DL Motorworks in Ballymount. They are BMW specialists.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,789 ✭✭✭wandererz


    BTW, when I mentioned swirl flaps above, I wasn't sure if your 316D engine has them. Probably worthwhile doing some research on that. Your engine looks different to my 320D.

    Heres some more info:
    http://bmwspecialistreading.co.uk/what-are-swirl-flaps/

    It may or may not be applicable to you.

    Edit: just noticed that you have a 2011. So it probably does not apply.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,789 ✭✭✭wandererz


    Back to oils.

    I only use Liquimoly oil in my cars now.
    It's a German oil with very good ratings & reviews.

    Usually I also add their Ceratec Oil additive as well which provides additional lubrication.
    The Liquimoly website has an oil finder that will show you the correct oil for your car.
    I usually buy it from Finglas Auto Parts. They are close to Joe Duffy BMW in Finglas.

    The Ceratec additive does say that it can extend your oil change intervals to 30K Km or something but i would never do that.
    It does provide a bit of peace of mind though if you cannot change the oil in time (e.g. middle of winter)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 43 Shah91n


    Just make sure it's LL04 spec oil that you use.

    Thank you that is a good point to note down.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 43 Shah91n


    wandererz wrote: »
    Engine sounds fine to me. Difficult to tell though, being diesel there's so much clatter. But sounds normal.

    At that mileage, you are right to have the belts looked at & changed if possible. It depends on your level of experience.
    I leave it in to get that done. If they haven't been changed I would suggest you do so. Rubber degrades over time & with use.

    One other thing I would recommend is getting the transmission/gearbox oil changed as well. Recommended at 50,000 miles. Doesn't cost much - about €50-€60 at a gearbox specialist.
    Could prevent huge bills in replacing the gearbox if it fails, which could be more than the value of the car.
    If you want to do it yourself, here's an example for a manual gearbox.
    https://youtu.be/RVGhI6zVBQ8

    If you prefer to have someone else do it then I would recommend Ace Clutch & Gearbox in Dublin 15 (if you are in the Dublin area).

    For other work that you cannot do yourself, i would suggest DL Motorworks in Ballymount. They are BMW specialists.

    Yeah a lot of people keep saying to me, sound normal, it's loud once you start hear cracking or metal or any other weird sounds then go for check up otherwise normal.

    My experience is very limited with BMW as this is my first one hopefully I won't hate the car hahahahaha :D I used to have Skodas and they have been reliable and very good but wanted BMW all the time so hopefully I will experience the same

    I am not sure where to find the gearbox oil on my car as I do not see any container or anything that contain that liquid maybe will ask a mechanic to do this.

    Yeah I am in Dublin and 5 mins from D15 :D good I will give these guys a try sometimes


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 43 Shah91n


    wandererz wrote: »
    Back to oils.

    I only use Liquimoly oil in my cars now.
    It's a German oil with very good ratings & reviews.

    Usually I also add their Ceratec Oil additive as well which provides additional lubrication.
    The Liquimoly website has an oil finder that will show you the correct oil for your car.
    I usually buy it from Finglas Auto Parts. They are close to Joe Duffy BMW in Finglas.

    The Ceratec additive does say that it can extend your oil change intervals to 30K Km or something but i would never do that.
    It does provide a bit of peace of mind though if you cannot change the oil in time (e.g. middle of winter)

    As far as my research goes, Castrol is the best rate out there but definitely if you have been using some oil and making good to your BMW then it worth to use. I will look into it

    Thank you very much for sharing


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 65 ✭✭Bunkernumber1


    wandererz wrote: »
    OP, that's bad advice. He provides the same bad advice to other threads as well.

    There are items that if fail can blow your engine & that's effectively the end of your car.

    One item that is known to fail are the swirl flaps. If it breaks it gets sucked into the engine & destroys it.

    Another is the oil breather filter. This should be changed to a vortex type. Even if it has one, it should be changed every 3-4 oil changes.

    If doing the swirl flaps, the Vortex filter should be changed at the same time as the manifold will be opened up at the time. Also there are 4 cylinder gaskets which can be changed at the same time.

    All these things you have listed are all on older bmw engine problems none of this is applicable to this engine.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 65 ✭✭Bunkernumber1


    Shah91n wrote: »
    Hello Bimmers,

    Could someone with experience watch and listen to that video until the end of the E90 Diesel Engine sound and let me know if that sounds normal?

    https://youtu.be/u6sY0BOUB_w

    It's cold start after 1.5 day. I feel it's loud and somehow there is some weird noise but probably I am just overthinking this.

    Keep in mind, 190k miles and never replaced timing chain

    Thanks

    The first port of call tho check out that sound is to see if it's coming from the engine or the aux belt areA. First thing to do is take the belt off and see if the sound is gone or still there then you can decide your next move but until you find out if its internal or external you wont know.


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,541 ✭✭✭Leonard Hofstadter


    All these things you have listed are all on older bmw engine problems none of this is applicable to this engine.

    Beat me to it. There's no problem with either the swirl flaps or the turbo in these engines. The turbo can go in them but that would hardly be a surprise given the mileage on this car, that could happen any car with 190k miles on the clock. The only thing worth doing as preventative maintenance would be the timing chain, not worth risking it IMO as if it were to snap the engine would be a write off.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 43 Shah91n


    Beat me to it. There's no problem with either the swirl flaps or the turbo in these engines. The turbo can go in them but that would hardly be a surprise given the mileage on this car, that could happen any car with 190k miles on the clock. The only thing worth doing as preventative maintenance would be the timing chain, not worth risking it IMO as if it were to snap the engine would be a write off.

    Ok so timing chain is the thing I must look into it at some point yet chain must be a life time component I believe but ok I will keep that in mind


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 43 Shah91n


    The first port of call tho check out that sound is to see if it's coming from the engine or the aux belt areA. First thing to do is take the belt off and see if the sound is gone or still there then you can decide your next move but until you find out if its internal or external you wont know.

    Serpentive Belt seems to be fine also not sure if I should replace it as preventive job or it's better to leave it as it is.

    I will check the noise again during weekend after another cold start and see because I cannot tell where it comes from generally as engine is normally loud :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 23,084 ✭✭✭✭Esel
    Not Your Ornery Onager


    Shah91n wrote: »
    Ok so timing chain is the thing I must look into it at some point yet chain must be a life time component I believe but ok I will keep that in mind
    I think the poster is saying it's not worth the risk not doing it (leaving it).

    Not your ornery onager



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,060 ✭✭✭Sexual Chocolate


    Beat me to it. There's no problem with either the swirl flaps or the turbo in these engines. The turbo can go in them but that would hardly be a surprise given the mileage on this car, that could happen any car with 190k miles on the clock. The only thing worth doing as preventative maintenance would be the timing chain, not worth risking it IMO as if it were to snap the engine would be a write off.

    I was advised recently to get my swirl flaps blanked. Done a bit of googling and it seems to be something that people do but it seems that these engines are no where as bad as the M47 for them. Others suggested having the manifold cleaned instead as they suffer from carbon built up.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,060 ✭✭✭Sexual Chocolate


    Shah91n wrote: »
    Ok so timing chain is the thing I must look into it at some point yet chain must be a life time component I believe but ok I will keep that in mind

    Supposed to be a life time component. When I got mine recently there was a receipt in it for over €1900 from main dealer for new chain.

    There are independent places that do them from between 800 - 1200 I've heard.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 65 ✭✭Bunkernumber1


    Supposed to be a life time component. When I got mine recently there was a receipt in it for over €1900 from main dealer for new chain.

    There are independent places that do them from between 800 - 1200 I've heard.

    Ya about a grand would do the job on the timing chain.in fairness there simple to do but its engine out to do them. Turn around time if I'm doing one is about 3 days. As for anyone on about swirl flaps on these engines the dont suffer with that problem so it's nothing to worry about.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 65 ✭✭Bunkernumber1


    Shah91n wrote: »
    Serpentive Belt seems to be fine also not sure if I should replace it as preventive job or it's better to leave it as it is.

    I will check the noise again during weekend after another cold start and see because I cannot tell where it comes from generally as engine is normally loud :D

    If u read what I said it was to remove the belt weather it looks fine or not because the tensioner or pulleys or alternator pulley etc can be making the sound so if u remove the belt and the sound is still there it's in the engine .if it's gone then you have a problem with one of the prmarts listed above


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 43 Shah91n


    If u read what I said it was to remove the belt weather it looks fine or not because the tensioner or pulleys or alternator pulley etc can be making the sound so if u remove the belt and the sound is still there it's in the engine .if it's gone then you have a problem with one of the prmarts listed above

    I understood what you meant, so I should remove it and start the engine, would not that be harmful for those parts or the engine as the belt is part of the operation?


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 43 Shah91n


    Supposed to be a life time component. When I got mine recently there was a receipt in it for over €1900 from main dealer for new chain.

    There are independent places that do them from between 800 - 1200 I've heard.

    Yeah my mechanic said 1200 but I still do not wanna bother changing it until I hear weird noise from the back of the engine :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 65 ✭✭Bunkernumber1


    Shah91n wrote: »
    I understood what you meant, so I should remove it and start the engine, would not that be harmful for those parts or the engine as the belt is part of the operation?

    No will cause no harm at all apart from the alternator not charging the battery for the 5 mins you have the engine running. But know it's not harmful and this is how any mechanic would determine if the noise is external or internal in the engine. My money is on the two little pulleys on there own common enough problem. You will have to check them when the belt is off tho


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,541 ✭✭✭Leonard Hofstadter


    I was advised recently to get my swirl flaps blanked. Done a bit of googling and it seems to be something that people do but it seems that these engines are no where as bad as the M47 for them. Others suggested having the manifold cleaned instead as they suffer from carbon built up.

    Yeah it was only the M47 which had the problem, and even then not all versions did, by the time the engine got into the E90 it didn't really suffer from that issue, and I think they had changed the oil filter by then as well.

    The E90 used the M47N2 engine (also called the M47TU2), the E46 used either the M47 (earliest 320ds without common rail technology), or the M47N /M47TU engine (the one with the turbo problems if the Vortex filter hasn't been used).


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,541 ✭✭✭Leonard Hofstadter


    I was advised recently to get my swirl flaps blanked. Done a bit of googling and it seems to be something that people do but it seems that these engines are no where as bad as the M47 for them. Others suggested having the manifold cleaned instead as they suffer from carbon built up.

    Yeah it was only the M47 which had the problem, and even then not all versions did, by the time the engine got into the E90 it didn't really suffer from that issue, and I think they had changed the oil filter by then as well.

    The E90 used the M47N2 engine (also called the M47TU2), the E46 used either the M47 (earliest 320ds without common rail technology), or the M47N /M47TU engine (the one with the turbo problems if the Vortex filter hasn't been used).


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 43 Shah91n


    Hello everyone,

    Does anyone here have a BWM 3 Series 316d that crossed 200k miles? Is it still running well? what did you do to keep it good? How long do you think it will keep running?

    Thanks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,718 ✭✭✭whippet


    a week ?


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 706 ✭✭✭kaahooters


    Mate, ive checked your post history, and your quetion was answered in your first post.

    do the servicing, theres no short cuts, if you want the car to last your gonna have to pay, a lot.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 81,220 ✭✭✭✭biko


    Shah91n, I've merged with your main thread. Keep all your questions in this one thread please.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 111 ✭✭BavarianCare


    wandererz wrote: »
    OP, that's bad advice. He provides the same bad advice to other threads as well.

    There are items that if fail can blow your engine & that's effectively the end of your car.

    One item that is known to fail are the swirl flaps. If it breaks it gets sucked into the engine & destroys it.

    Another is the oil breather filter. This should be changed to a vortex type. Even if it has one, it should be changed every 3-4 oil changes.

    If doing the swirl flaps, the Vortex filter should be changed at the same time as the manifold will be opened up at the time. Also there are 4 cylinder gaskets which can be changed at the same time.

    2011 E90 diesel has replaceable oil breather for Vortex like 2002 E46 320d M47?
    News to me...


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 111 ✭✭BavarianCare


    Beat me to it. There's no problem with either the swirl flaps or the turbo in these engines. The turbo can go in them but that would hardly be a surprise given the mileage on this car, that could happen any car with 190k miles on the clock. The only thing worth doing as preventative maintenance would be the timing chain, not worth risking it IMO as if it were to snap the engine would be a write off.

    Swirl flaps can be an issue with N47 (AND B47 engines in addition to chains.
    However, the common issues are:
    Wrong service intervals (official ones are incorrect)
    Chains
    Turbo failure (due to neglected DPF)
    EGR modules
    ===
    I'd remove the swirl flaps and block the actuator port at that mileage
    Also, update the software of vehicle & modify service intervals.
    Professionally clean the DPF as THIS CAN cause turbo failure. To say turbos don't give trouble on these is daft.
    Chains if a listen gave me any worry...


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,060 ✭✭✭Sexual Chocolate


    A lot of people who remove the swirl flaps on these do end up regretting it I've heard. Only those who do it on the 3.0l notice no difference.


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 43 Shah91n


    Swirl flaps can be an issue with N47 (AND B47 engines in addition to chains.
    However, the common issues are:
    Wrong service intervals (official ones are incorrect)
    Chains
    Turbo failure (due to neglected DPF)
    EGR modules
    ===
    I'd remove the swirl flaps and block the actuator port at that mileage
    Also, update the software of vehicle & modify service intervals.
    Professionally clean the DPF as THIS CAN cause turbo failure. To say turbos don't give trouble on these is daft.
    Chains if a listen gave me any worry...

    I am not sure I have Swirl Flaps, my knowlegde is limited with BMW 316d however recently 3 weeks ago, I did flush and change all fluids in the car and did the brakes and full service, there is nothing I can think of that need to be done at 190k miles however one thing remain and pissing me off, I bought BT bimmer tool and noticing the DPF (I will never buy diesel car anymore after this one), The car regenerate automatically without a problem and burn all soots down but it builds up in no time means that say I am 50% (30g of soots), I go to motorway it activate, it burns until go to 2% (2g of soots) I turn back home on M50 15min driving it builds up like 2 3 5 6 7 bla bla until 50% again then it request regeneration (one time I did return to M50 to carry on but it keeps doing the same)

    Code 4D03 came out Exhaust Gas Counter came out like a month ago - Mechanice told me add this Moly DPF additives and drive. He removed the code and It was fine to be honest but then the problem I mentioned above started to happen a week ago so not sure what to do now but I am worried to ruin something up by keep driving expecting the car to show code !!!

    Keep in mind, the car never lose power nor went into limp mode YET :(

    Any advise would be appreciated if someone faced that before


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,060 ✭✭✭Sexual Chocolate


    Unless they've already being removed you defiantly have swirl flaps.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 43 Shah91n


    Unless they've already being removed you defiantly have swirl flaps.

    The car had only one previous owner and all services/changes/tyres/changes done from BMW main dealer Colm Quinn were given to me and I can tell nothing has been taken off this car. I do trust the previous owner.

    So if they are there, they are there!!

    Yet I cannot see any issues with anything in car except the bloody DPF acting up
    Turbo, Engine etc.. all sound and works as expected


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,060 ✭✭✭Sexual Chocolate


    Also don't take too much notice of the soot values, it's an estimated value from other sensors combined as I've recently learned. Same happened to me a few weeks ago. Car began a regen at the Red Cow and about 50km after it finished the soot value had climbed to nearly 20g. When I started the car the next day it was only 3.something grams.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 43 Shah91n


    Also don't take too much notice of the soot values, it's an estimated value from other sensors combined as I've recently learned. Same happened to me a few weeks ago. Car began a regen at the Red Cow and about 50km after it finished the soot value had climbed to nearly 20g. When I started the car the next day it was only 3.something grams.

    That's the thing, I have been monitoring in the past 5 days and yet it's building and regeneration, I just cannot go to M50 every hour to clean it up because once I back, it's up again and I am so worried because I do not want to reach to point to have the car in Limp mode,

    I want to drive to Galway and Kerry for holiday and cannot because I am worried the car will break down in where I have no one to rescue me and will end up buying hundreds to bring it back to Dublin :confused:

    I am thinking to add one or two Liqui Moly DPF cleaner hoping it will help !!

    Also if the car keep asking for regeneration, something must be wrong because it should not be doing that much


Advertisement