Radiator fan on

Damo5521

2014 vw caddy

Engine is stone cold, just turned on
Radiator fan turn on and stays on, engine revs idle at 1000 rpm.

Engine turns off and fan goes off

Any help on this issue, greatly appreciated

Atlantic Dawn

Have you checked the coolant level?

Damo5521

Atlantic Dawn wrote: »

Have you checked the coolant level?

Yes i topped it up,

blackbox

Is air-con switched on?

jmreire

Damo5521 wrote: »

2014 vw caddy

Engine is stone cold, just turned on
Radiator fan turn on and stays on, engine revs idle at 1000 rpm.

Engine turns off and fan goes off

Any help on this issue, greatly appreciated

Faulty temperature sensor that feed's info to the electrics controlling the rad motor.

Damo5521

blackbox wrote: »

Is air-con switched on?

No

Damo5521

jmreire wrote: »

Faulty temperature sensor that feed's info to the electrics controlling the rad motor.

I was thinking it maybe that. Any way to check before i buy a new one?

jmreire

Damo5521 wrote: »

I was thinking it maybe that. Any way to check before i buy a new one?

Disconnect it and see if the fan stops. Sometimes these switches short-circuit and feed current directly to the fan motor once the ignition is switched on. Conversely, they can fail, and not make the connection, even when the engine is running hot, and needs the fan to run. I had the same problem in my A6 ( does not matter what make.....the principle is the same. )

Damo5521

jmreire wrote: »

Disconnect it and see if the fan stops. Sometimes these switches short-circuit and feed current directly to the fan motor once the ignition is switched on. Conversely, they can fail, and not make the connection, even when the engine is running hot, and needs the fan to run. I had the same problem in my A6 ( does not matter what make.....the principle is the same. )

Hi, purchased temp sensor, fan stayed off.
I didnt get to run the engine for long enough to see if temperature needle moved up/ fan came on. Not sure of temp needle moves, have to leave engine running longer 2moro

Cheers for help

jmreire

Damo5521 wrote: »

Hi, purchased temp sensor, fan stayed off.
I didnt get to run the engine for long enough to see if temperature needle moved up/ fan came on. Not sure of temp needle moves, have to leave engine running longer 2moro

Cheers for help

That's good news anyway...don't worry too much about the fan not cutting in at the moment... with the kind of sub-zero temperature's we are getting presently, its quite possible that the fans will only cut in after a long drive, and only then
if you are stopped in traffic. You have to remember that even in normal times, if you are travelling at say 80 KLms per hour, that means that an 80 KLm per hour wind is travelling through the radiator anyway, and that will keep the temp low. In some country's in the winter, they use a blind to cover the radiator to stop the cold air from passing through it.

Damo5521

Hi


I changed temp sensor recently so that the radiator fan is not running all the time, problem sorted.

Left running for an hour to see would temperature gauge slowly rise as van gets warmer (about 30 degree now). Van has a bad smell coming out of exhaust, and can smell from a short distance. Took van for a short spin down the road, and on way back white-ish smoke out of exhaust (it was dark so hard to see exactly), temp gauge went up to 90 degree.

Anyone shed any light on this issue, fingers crossed its not bad

jmreire

Damo5521 wrote: »

Hi


I changed temp sensor recently so that the radiator fan is not running all the time, problem sorted.

Left running for an hour to see would temperature gauge slowly rise as van gets warmer (about 30 degree now). Van has a bad smell coming out of exhaust, and can smell from a short distance. Took van for a short spin down the road, and on way back white-ish smoke out of exhaust (it was dark so hard to see exactly), temp gauge went up to 90 degree.

Anyone shed any light on this issue, fingers crossed its not bad

The first problem you had was electrical...replacing the sensor proved that. This is something else though. Is it losing water? Smoking exhaust and strange smell can mean water getting into the cylinders.

Damo5521

jmreire wrote: »

The first problem you had was electrical...replacing the sensor proved that. This is something else though. Is it losing water? Smoking exhaust and strange smell can mean water getting into the cylinders.

Thanks for your reply,
Im not sure if its loosing water after this time, i did put coolant into it when i first got it as it was low. Maybe this is the reason it was low in first place 🀦*♂️😬

jmreire

Damo5521 wrote: »

Thanks for your reply,
Im not sure if its loosing water after this time, i did put coolant into it when i first got it as it was low. Maybe this is the reason it was low in first place ��*♂️��

Yes, you mentioned that. Now time to check it out over the next few days...Top it up when it's cold, drive it around and next day check it again. See what color the engine oil is too...if it's a creamy color.???

Damo5521

jmreire wrote: »

Yes, you mentioned that. Now time to check it out over the next few days...Top it up when it's cold, drive it around and next day check it again. See what color the engine oil is too...if it's a creamy color.???

Ok, next few days i will try that, il be back 🀞

turbostan

Thought it sounded like a dpf regen from the start to be honest, and now again I'm thinking the same.

jmreire

turbostan wrote: »

Thought it sounded like a dpf regen from the start to be honest, and now again I'm thinking the same.

You could well be right too..if it is, then thats good news, and the OP will soon know. And next time it happen's, it wont scare him to death. These bloody things should have a dash indicator, which would show when a regen is taking place. First time it happened when my Wife was driving, she got a fright too...thought it was going on fire. And I'm sure that she is not the first one.

Damo5521

turbostan wrote: »

Thought it sounded like a dpf regen from the start to be honest, and now again I'm thinking the same.

Im back, just started the van this eve.
Cloudyish white smoke when started, coolant level not much of change.

Gave van rev of about 2000rpm, and DPF LIGHT came on dash,

Does that narrow it down?
Where to from here 😬🀷*♂️

jmreire

Damo5521 wrote: »

Im back, just started the van this eve.
Cloudyish white smoke when started, coolant level not much of change.

Gave van rev of about 2000rpm, and DPF LIGHT came on dash,

Does that narrow it down?
Where to from here ����*♂️

At this stage, I'd be getting a scan done, and see what that show's up. Do you happen to know any mechanic who would do a scan for you? ( stupid question, I know......if you had a mechanic friend, you would not be asking about the problem here on Board's ) seems like it is starting the regen, but is unable to complete it, and thats when the warning light is coming on. Maybe some one else can advise you different, but if it was my car, I'd be getting it scanned.

Damo5521

Hi

Quick update

Got van put on computer and mechanic done a forced regen

Problem solved

jmreire

Damo5521 wrote: »

Hi

Quick update

Got van put on computer and mechanic done a forced regen

Problem solved

Thats good news so. Take note of the mileage, and date. Now next time you see it putting out white smoke, with the engine reving a bit erratic, you will know what is going on.And now also you have found a mechanic who knows what he is doing, so hopefully, happy motoring from here on.

greenspurs

Jumping in here....

My engine fan came on after the engine was switched off (temp gauge was normal reading),
engine a bit sluggish, and revs a bit peaky... White smoke too.

2017 1.4 diesel mokka

jmreire

greenspurs wrote: »

Jumping in here....

My engine fan came on after the engine was switched off (temp gauge was normal reading),
engine a bit sluggish, and revs a bit peaky... White smoke too.

2017 1.4 diesel mokka

Regen would be a safe bet....has it returned to normal now?

greenspurs

jmreire wrote: »

Regen would be a safe bet....has it returned to normal now?

I don't do much mileage...
maybe 10 km a day to/from work....

That might be a factor ?


So I need to bring it for a long spin to clear out the filter?

colm_mcm

You need to take it for a good spin regularly. Your driving isn’t really suited to a diesel car.

greenspurs

colm_mcm wrote: »

You need to take it for a good spin regularly. Your driving isn’t really suited to a diesel car.

ohhh …. :eek:

jmreire

greenspurs wrote: »

I don't do much mileage...
maybe 10 km a day to/from work....

That might be a factor ?


So I need to bring it for a long spin to clear out the filter?

Yes, as a first step,,,on the motorway would be best, keep the revs up to about 2500 for a 15/20 mins, and see if that completes the regen. As Colm says 10 klms per day, if that is just 5 klm's each way, would not really get the engine up to temp for a regen.
Diesels are meant for high mileage driving,,otherwise you will have regen problems. Stop start, short mileage trips are death for diesel engines. Petrol is much more suited to this kind of driving.

Signore Fancy Pants

Something similar happening to my yolk

Fan constantly running high, sometimes for 10-15 minutes after motor knocked off.

Got the temp sensor changed and the problem went away for about 2 months.

Same issue arose...been going on for months, just not happy paying another €300+ for another sensor then labour.

Any reason why another sensor sould fail or would it be a bigger issue?

jmreire

Signore Fancy Pants wrote: »

Something similar happening to my yolk

Fan constantly running high, sometimes for 10-15 minutes after motor knocked off.

Got the temp sensor changed and the problem went away for about 2 months.

Same issue arose...been going on for months, just not happy paying another €300+ for another sensor then labour.

Any reason why another sensor sould fail or would it be a bigger issue?

You need to get it scanned....throwing parts at it willy-nilly, will not cure it., as your experience has shown At least a scan will show a fault code. what make is it?

Signore Fancy Pants

jmreire wrote: »

You need to get it scanned....throwing parts at it willy-nilly, will not cure it., as your experience has shown At least a scan will show a fault code. what make is it?

A6, probably similar your previous issue.

I have a VAG kit here at home, better fire it up and see what codes it screams at me!

jmreire

Yes that would be the way to go...hope that its not too serious. Which engine is in it? What code? ( you will find it on the plastic cover for the belt at the front of the engine, it is a 3 letter set, BXE, AZF etc for the older models)

colm_mcm

I know on my own car that if it’s idling at 1000rpm as opposed to 800rpm, it’s doing a regen. If I do turn the car off, it’s always in the back of my mind that I need to give it a run.

I wouldn’t ageee with this thing of revving the shoite out of the car to make it do it. Sure, if you want the car to get up to temp quicker it’ll do that but it isn’t usually a requirement to have the rpm at a certain point to make it regen.

Signore Fancy Pants

jmreire wrote: »

Yes that would be the way to go...hope that its not too serious. Which engine is in it? What code? ( you will find it on the plastic cover for the belt at the front of the engine, it is a 3 letter set, BXE, AZF etc for the older models)

Its a 2.0 TDIe it has 'CAG' on the fan cover...if im looking at the right end of it :pac:

jmreire

Signore Fancy Pants wrote: »

Its a 2.0 TDIe it has 'CAG' on the fan cover...if im looking at the right end of it :pac:

Should be on the front of the engine itself, on the pulley cover ( and it could be CAG , or variations of ) you can double check by looking inside the first page of the service booklet, and also there is a sticker on the wall of the spare wheel well.

jmreire

colm_mcm wrote: »

I know on my own car that if it’s idling at 1000rpm as opposed to 800rpm, it’s doing a regen. If I do turn the car off, it’s always in the back of my mind that I need to give it a run.

I wouldn’t ageee with this thing of revving the shoite out of the car to make it do it. Sure, if you want the car to get up to temp quicker it’ll do that but it isn’t usually a requirement to have the rpm at a certain point to make it regen.

No, I would not be in favour of "running the shoite" out of of it either, but in a case like the ops,,,a steady run at 2500 RPM constant speed on the motorway might do the trick for him. Ideally, I think that its important for a regen to take place is that the speed will be constant, hence the motorway run at fixed RPM. Personally, I do a lot of mixed driving, some short runs, mixed with some hilly climbs, where the rev counter will hit the 3'000 RPM for awhile plus some trailer work, but not heavy stuff. It regen's fine in its own time, So everything is normal, as is yours, but in the OPs case, the car is not being driven enough, and its creating a regen problem.