Oil or water based paint.

Mach Two

Which is better for painting doors and skirting.

Xcellor

Mach Two wrote: »

Which is better for painting doors and skirting.

Oil is harder wearing but takes forever to dry between coats also smells for much longer, is messier, harder to clean up.

As an amateur painter I'd go with water based and deal with occasional touch ups

stoneill

Satinwood paint - keep away from gloss.

stoneill

stoneill wrote: »

Satinwood paint - keep away from gloss.

Tip is the best diy paint tip you will ever get.

Mach Two

stoneill wrote: »

Satinwood paint - keep away from gloss.

Oil or water based?

stoneill

Satinwood is a solvent based paint.

grogi

Mach Two wrote: »

Oil or water based?

Oil gives better effect, but at much higher labour cost. Water is simply much easier to deal with.

If you are asking, go with water.

Sinister Kid

Water based satin wood. It is easier to use & will stay white longer than oil based... they changed the amount of VOC alloud in oil based paints a few years back which causes the paint to yellow.

Mach Two

Forgot to mention that I am painting an existing old door that I stripped/partially stripped of it's existing paint as well as new skirting. I presume that paint was oil based.

dodzy

Sinister Kid wrote: »

Water based satin wood. It is easier to use & will stay white longer than oil based... they changed the amount of VOC alloud in oil based paints a few years back which causes the paint to yellow.

Oil based for white all day long. Better coverage by a mile... coupled with the fact the if people use water based satin wood to repaint doors originally coated with oil based products, without pre-priming, the paint won’t be long coming away with minimal persuasion.

Mach Two wrote: »

Forgot to mention that I am painting an existing old door that I stripped/partially stripped of it's existing paint as well as new skirting. I presume that paint was oil based.

Zinnsser (B.I.N or 123) primer before painting and you’ll not have to worry whether your finish is water or oil based. I’d still be going with oil.

Mach Two

dodzy wrote: »

Oil based for white all day long. Better coverage by a mile... coupled with the fact the if people use water based satin wood to repaint doors originally coated with oil based products, without pre-priming, the paint won’t be long coming away with minimal persuasion.



Zinnsser (B.I.N or 123) primer before painting and you’ll not have to worry whether your finish is water or oil based. I’d still be going with oil.

I have Dulux primer undercoat waterbased. I suggested the B.I.N. primer to the man in the shop but he said there should be no need for it.

Lex Luthor

Currently painting skirting and architrave
It was previously stained
Sanded down and cleaned
2 coats of Zinner BIN
2 coats of fleetwood undercoat (French white)
2 coats of fleetwood satinwood (French white from colortrend colours)
Took a while but we’ll worth it

dok_golf

Oil based is tougher but will yellow. Water based stays true but not as durable

Mach Two

But is the Dulux primer suitable over the oil based paint.

dodzy

Mach Two wrote: »

I have Dulux primer undercoat waterbased. I suggested the B.I.N. primer to the man in the shop but he said there should be no need for it.

The clue is in the highlighted word;)

Mach Two

So you are saying that the Dulux primer won't work over the old paint

Irish_peppa

I have allways glossed window frames sills, and reveals in white gloss. Thinned down with a bit of owatrol oil. I like how it makes an allmost waterproof skin in the surface. Its definitly more messy but you dont need to redo it for years.
How different is Satin Wood to a standard Gloss in the end product? Do you still get that waterproof tough durable surface?

FrancieBrady

Mach Two wrote: »

So you are saying that the Dulux primer won't work over the old paint

General rule of thumb; never put a soft paint over a hard one. Recipe for disaster.
The Zinnsser (B.I.N or 123) primer advice is sound.

Turnrew

2 quick questions

I've been using water based for a while but im going back to oil, water based not good enough for me.

Can I put oil based satinwood over water based primer?

Also is there much need for wiping down or does brushing off dust suffice?

Lex Luthor

I've no experience using a Dulux primer

I'm in the process of going over a lot of woodwork in the house at the moment, its a mixed bag, some skirtings & architraves are stained, some are just covered in a clear gloss varnish on bare wood

I have adopted the same principle on all of it

Sand down the wood with a 80/120 grade sandpaper
Clean off with meth spirits and leave to dry

2 coats of Zinnser BIN
2 coats of undercoat, I usually get a colour that's close to the top coat
2 coats of top coat using satinwood from Fleetwood, I used to use Colortrend Satinwood but can get the Fleetwood at a snip of the price of the Colortrend so going with that instead

Here's a few before, during & after pics of the side panels of a bath I did this morning
It has vertical T&G boars, covered in a clear gloss varnish
There are a lot of knots, I just have one coat of the Zinnser BIN on this, I'll leave that 24hrs and do a 2nd coat tomorrow

From what I am told the BIN is better for internal wood especially knotty wood than the 123, so far it hasn't let me down

Mach Two

I put in a new stairs so oil based paint I expect will be a better choice?

Turnrew

You never see painters wiping down much,they mostly brush off dust

Although it seems to be recommended

dok_golf

dodzy wrote: »

The clue is in the highlighted word;)

Plenty of waterbased primers around that can go over oil.

bb12

i used oil based white gloss on some doors and skirting boards when built my house 7 years ago and then water based satin white on others. today all the oil based paint has yellowed quite a bit but actually suits the wall colours where it is so i've left it. the satinwood is still pristine white including on the wooden stairs risers

whizbang

I have sucessfully used a Johnstones primer which is itself water based.

Dont use water based gloss straight from the can; pour out just enough for the job into a separate container.

Water based dries so quick, on a warm day the paint will be dry before the brush marks have settled.
If you allow the can to dry out in the least, you then will never get a smooth finish.

dodzy

dok_golf wrote: »

Plenty of waterbased primers around that can go over oil.

Dok, what would be your recommended weapon of choice in this case ?

Interested in what you would pick.

dok_golf

Depends on what way you want to apply it. The trouble I find with the WB ( white only, not off whites or colours) paint is that it sprays unbelievably well but drags like **** with a brush. Only top coat WB paint I use now is Tikkurila Helmi 30 ( satin) or 80 (gloss). I would prime with Bloxx It ( Fleetwood Oil Based Primer, really really good), give it a good key and brush ( or even better spray though you need to know what you're doing) 2 coats of Helmi 30 on top.

Mach Two

Sanded as much paint as possible off door and door frame. I have 2 coats of B.I.N. primer on the door. Do I finish with oil or water based paint.

Lex Luthor

Mach Two wrote: »

Sanded as much paint as possible off door and door frame. I have 2 coats of B.I.N. primer on the door. Do I finish with oil or water based paint.

I presume you could use either

I have put 2 undercoats and 2 top coats of WB on the BIN primer on every job and took really well
The WB paint dries a lot quicker and is easier to clean brushes with

Mach Two

Lex Luthor wrote: »

I presume you could use either

I have put 2 undercoats and 2 top coats of WB on the BIN primer on every job and took really well
The WB paint dries a lot quicker and is easier to clean brushes with

Is there any need to put an undercoat over the BIN primer. And then an overcoat? Seems like overkill to me. But I an not an expert.

If the oil based paint is going to yellow the water based might be more desirable. But the oil based might be more durable and more washable.

dok_golf

Not necessarily so. I use Shellac primer ( BIN equivalent every day) but I find it is a bit brittle. What I do now is an adhesion primer, BIN, and 2 top coats. If you are using it on something that isn't going to get knocks and bangs, you could just use BIN followed by topcoats

Mach Two

dok_golf wrote: »

Not necessarily so. I use Shellac primer ( BIN equivalent every day) but I find it is a bit brittle. What I do now is an adhesion primer, BIN, and 2 top coats. If you are using it on something that isn't going to get knocks and bangs, you could just use BIN followed by topcoats

Where knocks are expected. ie. stairs,water based or oil based top coat.

dodzy

Lex Luthor wrote: »

I presume you could use either

I have put 2 undercoats and 2 top coats of WB on the BIN primer on every job and took really well
The WB paint dries a lot quicker and is easier to clean brushes with

Overkill with 2xUC over the B.I.N surely?

Edit: Just seen your pics. Definitely no need for UC following 2 x applications of BIN. That’s expensive stuff

Lex Luthor

dodzy wrote: »

Overkill with 2xUC over the B.I.N surely?

Edit: Just seen your pics. Definitely no need for UC following 2 x applications of BIN. That’s expensive stuff

You're probably right in certain circumstances
Maybe on the side of the bath I could reduce it down, I have only just given it the 2 coats of BIN so far

However on the other areas I have done which are skirtings in high traffic areas and legs of tables & chairs which are prone to knocks and kicks I went with the 2+2+2 coats

They seem to be holding up well to the kicks, etc

I get all my paints @ cost so its not as expensive for me apart from my time, which is a couple of hrs here & there

a house is never finished...........

Mach Two

Where knocks are expected. ie. stairs,water based or oil based top coat?

dodzy

Mach Two wrote: »

Where knocks are expected. ie. stairs,water based or oil based top coat?

The key is not so much the finish coat, it’s the prep and treatment before the final coats that will have an impact on durability. If you were to apply 2 coats of oil based white direct over pine varnished doors, they might look alright, but the paint will fall off with the slightest nick.

William Legrande

I didn't think that any of the common wood paints for doors and skirting boards these days were oil-based. Any that I've had in the last 10 years or so have all been water-based.

When we moved in the house was new and there were a load of Johnstone's Trade custom colour tins left over. They were all emulsion, but none for wood. So, I cut off a piece of hidden skirting board (behind the bath panel) and brought in to a Johnstone's Decorating Centre and had a colour match made up. It matched perfectly and I have been using it room-by-room up to now.

Just last week I noticed on the tin that it was made using 'Durable Acrylic Eggshell', which surprised me. I went on their website and indeed it does look like this stuff is intended for use as a wall paint. Anyway, it has worked perfectly well up to now.

That's my experience.

I would agree with going for satin instead of high gloss.

dok_golf

dodzy wrote: »

The key is not so much the finish coat, it’s the prep and treatment before the final coats that will have an impact on durability. If you were to apply 2 coats of oil based white direct over pine varnished doors, they might look alright, but the paint will fall off with the slightest nick.

This is true. Its why I put shellac on over the adhesion primer rather than putting it on first. The waterbased paints are getting more durable but still haven't matched the oil yet ( I haven't usedd oil in 3 years mind you).

Sleepy

Any recommendations for a good water based high gloss white for skirtings, architraves and doors?

Can water based paints match the high gloss of a good oil paint?

Mach Two

Just an update on this. 4 doors stripped and painted. I used a heat gun to strip the paint. Used water based paint as an undercoat and finished coat. I am very happy with the results.