Just bought a Gen 1 leaf. First EV car

obi604

HI

Just bought a gen 1 leaf, trying to get the hang of registering etc
its 2011

went to nissan.ie > ownership > nissan connect

and brings up 2 options:

1. NissanConnect
2. Nissan Carwings

Which one do I use?
Whats the difference?


Main reason I want this is to check the charge of the car remotely whilst charging, from 1km away etc

Edit: I have an iPhone.

obi604

Bump.

JPA

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.digitas.android.nissan.carwings

Search Nissan connect EV in play store or follow link

obi604

JPA wrote: »

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.digitas.android.nissan.carwings

Search Nissan connect EV in play store or follow link

I have an iPhone.

Before even getting to apps on smartphones though........ I think I have to register the car via car wings or Nissan connect. Or is there some other way to do it. Purely to monitor the cars charging status remotely.

JPA

obi604 wrote: »

I have an iPhone.

Before even getting to apps on smartphones though........ I think I have to register the car via car wings or Nissan connect. Or is there some other way to do it. Purely to monitor the cars charging status remotely.

Yes, Nissan connect is what you need.

obi604

JPA wrote: »

Yes, Nissan connect is what you need.

My car is 2011. Is car wings used for these older cars?

JPA

obi604 wrote: »

My car is 2011. Is car wings used for these older cars?

Pretty sure car wings is gone and is now Nissan connect.

obi604

JPA wrote: »

Pretty sure car wings is gone and is now Nissan connect.

What login do you use to login to Nissan connect EV.

I’m just confused with car wings, Nissan connect, Nissan connect EV, where I need to register, do I need to do some pairing or Logging in in the car itself, what apps to use.


just the high level steps, something like.

1. Register on website ?
2. Then download app ?
3. Then login to app with details from step 1.
4. Any resets etc needed in the car itself via touch screen
5. Do I need to contact Nissan for anything?
6. Do I have to do a login in the car itself via touchscreen?

There are multiple apps on iPhone that are named very similar and I’m not sure what one to use.

JPA

The app and the website have the same functionality, the app being handier.

Register then follow steps. I can't remember exactly but you can do it through app or website. You will know if it doesn't work, as the clearly defined steps will not work.

Here is app for iPhone, i just googled it

https://apps.apple.com/ie/app/nissanconnect-ev/id407497029

obi604

JPA wrote: »

The app and the website have the same functionality, the app being handier.

Register then follow steps. I can't remember exactly but you can do it through app or website. You will know if it doesn't work, as the clearly defined steps will not work.

Here is app for iPhone, i just googled it

https://apps.apple.com/ie/app/nissanconnect-ev/id407497029

From what I can see, the app doesn’t allow you to register, just allows you to login.

I registered on the nissan.ie website. Just Nissan, not car wings. Tried to login to the above app on my iPhone with the user details I added on the Nissan website and not accepting the details.

Gumbo

The car might still be registered to the previous owner.
They may have to log in and remove it from their profile.

obi604

kceire wrote: »

The car might still be registered to the previous owner.
They may have to log in and remove it from their profile.

They did do that already. About 24 hours ago. Seen it being done myself

I did eventually via a hack get registered on car wings. I read on a forum to register without activating subscriptions. This eventually allowed me to register.

Then it was advised to then activate the subscriptions. Tried this but it come up with an error when I try to activate them

Looks like it’s no use without the subscriptions, and I cannot get this to work.

Just too many websites and apps and scenarios.......confused.


I’m registering on one website, then trying to use an app and not even sure if it’s for the login I created.


On Nissan.ie, there is

1. Login/register to NissanConnect
2. Login/register to Nissan Carwings
3. Login/register to You+Nissan

I’m not sure what one to use and what app
Is linked with what.

doing my head in.

Zenith74

FWIW I got these instructions from Nissan after going through the same grief you have, worked for me -

How to Set Up Nissan Connect EV:

Please be advised also that until steps 1-4 are completed successfully, the Nissan Connect EV mobile app won’t recognise your email address and password. Additionally, until step 5 is completed successfully, your vehicle won’t be able to communicate with our data centre.

1A) If you haven’t created a Nissan Connect account yet: using a computer and not a smartphone, create your account at https://ie.nissanconnect.eu/en-ie/ Enter the VIN in all capital letters with no spaces before, in between, or after any of its digits. Please also be advised that the letters "O" or "I" never appear in a VIN number. You must complete the steps, accepting all terms and conditions along the way, to successfully create your account for connected services.



1B) If you have already created a Nissan Connect account: using a computer and not a smartphone, log into your account at https://ie.nissanconnect.eu/en-ie/



2) Click on "My Garage", then click on "Continue to Ownership Check", please follow the instructions and complete the ownership check. For your information, sometimes you may have to wait longer than 1 minute to complete it. If you have difficulties, please wait up to 5 minutes.



3) Once you have completed the ownership check successfully, you may also need to select a subscription package and agree to activate it. This is done on the page that loads when you click on “View Connected Services”. Once this is completed, then the Nissan Connect EV mobile app will recognise your email address and password.



Please be advised that the Nissan Connect EV mobile app will often update before the Nissan Connect EV web portal. The Nissan Connect EV web portal can take up to 24 hours before it is fully activated and updates.



4) If you have an iPhone or an Android phone, if you haven’t already done so, download the Nissan Connect EV mobile app. Please make sure you have the correct Nissan mobile app. On the Nissan Connect EV app’s log in screen, it will say “Welcome to NissanConnect EV”.


5) Lastly, please see if your vehicle can communicate with our data centre. You can do this by seeing if you can update charging stations. To do so, push the “Zero Emissions” button, then touch “Update Stations”, and then touch “Near Current Location”. The car icon on the “Zero Emission” or “Carwings” settings screen should be white with signals coming out from it.

If the car icon in the right corner is grey without any strike through it, then you are an area with no signal or service. If you get an error message saying “No Signal”, you need to drive around until the car icon becomes white with signals coming out.

If, however, you get a message from the vehicle about a failure to communicate to the data centre or no service, you may need a TCU Reset. The TCU (Telematics Control Unit) is a part in your vehicle that is necessary to be activated for the vehicle and the data centre to communicate with each other. Most likely, but not always, the car icon will also be grey with a strike or an axe through it. To get a TCU Reset, you must go to your local Nissan dealership.

The Nissan guys were also very helpful so if you're still stuck, just drop them a mail. Did take quite a while for them to come back each time, but as I say they were giving the right answers when they did. In my case it was a UK import so the contact was gb@nissan-services.eu, I'm sure if you dropped them a mail they'd give you the Irish team, or may just sort you out!

obi604

Zenith74 wrote: »

FWIW I got these instructions from Nissan after going through the same grief you have, worked for me -



The Nissan guys were also very helpful so if you're still stuck, just drop them a mail. Did take quite a while for them to come back each time, but as I say they were giving the right answers when they did. In my case it was a UK import so the contact was gb@nissan-services.eu, I'm sure if you dropped them a mail they'd give you the Irish team, or may just sort you out!

THANK YOU.

This is brilliant. Just explains things step by step and nice and clear and differentiates between doing things on a standard PC versus apps on smartphones versus the car itself.

This should nearly be a sticky for thickos like me (maybe it is somewhere)

obi604

Is there any way to stop all the beeping noises. I know they are for a reason like seatbelt or door open or handbrake or whatever. But lord god the beeps are doing my head in. Sometimes just “beep beep” then quick beeps etc. Always seems to be a beep happening.

obi604

Is there any better way to monitor the charge of the battery remotely. The 'Nissan EV' app on iPhone seems very flaky so far.

handofdog

Try "My Leaf". You use your "Nissan Connect" credentials to sign in.

It seems to be better for me.

Also, note that if the Sim in the car has poor reception then that can make things slow too.

Cheers

obi604

handofdog wrote: »

Try "My Leaf". You use your "Nissan Connect" credentials to sign in.

It seems to be better for me.

Also, note that if the Sim in the car has poor reception then that can make things slow too.

Cheers

thanks, on iOS 'My Leaf' seems to cost 9 euro

obi604

If you use leafspy on a gen 1 leaf.......and the status of charge equals 60%........does this roughly mean you have 60 KM range left?

I think I heard someone mention this before. i.e. that 1% battery equals 1 KM range on the older leafs.

obi604

Does anybody know if any of the granny cables will fit through a letterbox? (to allow charging)

there is the 'standard' one that looks like this:

https://www.adverts.ie/other/granny-cable-nissan-leaf/18583113

and then another type of one:

https://www.ebay.ie/itm/Portable-granny-mains-charger-cable-10-amp-UK-3-pin-to-Type-1-EVSE-EV-charging/322563892933?hash=item4b1a4e66c5:g:lvwAAOSwFeNcY~ZO


Would any of these work through a letterbox?

KCross

obi604 wrote: »

Does anybody know if any of the granny cables will fit through a letterbox? (to allow charging)

Generally not, but obviously depends on your letterbox!

And would you really want a cable hanging through your letterbox all night long. It would be akin to leaving the door open with the cold it would leave in.

Dardania

Just to check, you're applying for the charger grant?

obi604

Dardania wrote: »

Just to check, you're applying for the charger grant?

im in a rented house and soon plan to move soon, so dont want to apply until I move to new house.

So in the interim I want to just use the granny scenario.
I also have a public charger 600 meters walk down the road (for when im stuck)

McGiver

obi604 wrote: »

If you use leafspy on a gen 1 leaf.......and the status of charge equals 60%........does this roughly mean you have 60 KM range left?

I think I heard someone mention this before. i.e. that 1% battery equals 1 KM range on the older leafs.

More or less. But you never would and should go to really low % of battery (it damages the battery).
But the km/% depends on the battery health though.

And then on temperature, wind, rain, driving style, speed and elevation (going uphill/downhill).

obi604

McGiver wrote: »

More or less. But you never would and should go to really low % of battery (it damages the battery).
But the km/% depends on the battery health though.

And then on temperature, wind, rain, driving style, speed and elevation (going uphill/downhill).

What’s the lowest you should go - 10%?

Noted on the km / % thing, as time goes by, the less this is true as battery degrades.

McGiver

obi604 wrote: »

McGiver wrote: »

More or less. But you never would and should go to really low % of battery (it damages the battery).
But the km/% depends on the battery health though.

And then on temperature, wind, rain, driving style, speed and elevation (going uphill/downhill).

What’s the lowest you should go - 10%?

Noted on the km / % thing, as time goes by, the less this is true as battery degrades.

Others may comment, but generally it is recommended to keep the battery between 20 and 80%. And that applies to all lithium batteries including phone and laptop.
I suppose its OK to go below 20 if you need the range on the occasion but if you did it everyday it would hurt the battery.

KCross

I think its more taking it close to 0% or 100% and leaving it at that level for extended periods of time.

Taking the car to 10% daily shouldnt do any damage as long as you charge it up again that day.... imo.

The only things to avoid with Gen 1 (original LMO) battery is to avoid heating the battery with repeated rapid charging and don't let the car sit for days needlessly at bottom or at top of the charge. I would not worry about the actual usage at this stage. Just drive the thing and charge as often as necessary and drive to low battery whenever necessary.

Some of the beeps you might be able switch off with the paid version of the LeafSpy. I switched off all the external charging noises for example.

handofdog

I've a question too please.

All is going great with my gen 1 leaf but there is one niggle. The arrow on the sat nav seems to be off by approx 5 to 10mm.

E.g. If I was stopped at the tip of a T-junction then the arrow would be below the T-junction.

It's very annoying when trying to determine when to turn.

Any suggestions as to how to recalibrate it?

Thanks in advance. Cheers.

obi604

samih wrote: »

The only things to avoid with Gen 1 (original LMO) battery is to avoid heating the battery with repeated rapid charging and don't let the car sit for days needlessly at bottom or at top of the charge. I would not worry about the actual usage at this stage. Just drive the thing and charge as often as necessary and drive to low battery whenever necessary.

Some of the beeps you might be able switch off with the paid version of the LeafSpy. I switched off all the external charging noises for example.

I think you can analyze and analyze and start looking at GIDs and all this stuff, but maybe as you say , its better just to "drive the thing" and apply common sense - dont let the charge go too low, charge up when needed. And try and stay away from quick charging if possible.

obi604

Can anyone tell me quickly if this type granny cable is weather proof


https://www.adverts.ie/other/nissan-leaf-granny-cable/18511909

I know its not water proof, but can it be left out in the rain etc overnight - if one was to plug it in to an external 3 pin socket?

KCross

obi604 wrote: »

Can anyone tell me quickly if this type granny cable is weather proof


https://www.adverts.ie/other/nissan-leaf-granny-cable/18511909

I know its not water proof, but can it be left out in the rain etc overnight - if one was to plug it in to an external 3 pin socket?

Thats the original Nissan one so yes, that can be left outside in the rain AS LONG AS the plug is not exposed to the rain (i.e. its plugged into a suitable outdoor weatherproof socket and not an extension lead left out exposed to rain.

obi604

KCross wrote: »

Thats the original Nissan one so yes, that can be left outside in the rain AS LONG AS the plug is not exposed to the rain (i.e. its plugged into a suitable outdoor weatherproof socket and not an extension lead left out exposed to rain.

THANK YOU!

Is there any such thing as a weatherproof extension lead that people use with these granny leads?

KCross

obi604 wrote: »

Is there any such thing as a weatherproof extension lead that people use with these granny leads?

Im sure there is. Just make sure that whatever you buy is rated for continuous 13A. Some extension leads only have 1mm² cable and would not be capable of supplying a granny cable.

Get one with at least 1.25mm² cable and ensure you fully unwind it otherwise it can overheat.

obi604

KCross wrote: »

Im sure there is. Just make sure that whatever you buy is rated for continuous 13A. Some extension leads only have 1mm² cable and would not be capable of supplying a granny cable.

Get one with at least 1.25mm² cable and ensure you fully unwind it otherwise it can overheat.

Thanks again. If anyone has an exact link to something like this, please post it, as I am not sure about this kind of stuff.

obi604

obi604 wrote: »

THANK YOU!

Is there any such thing as a weatherproof extension lead that people use with these granny leads?

You'll need something like this protective box from B&Q:

McGiver

Something like this? IP rated, 13A, heavy duty lead...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07B5N2VK1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_LpgyDbGCNJ91Q

obi604

Hi. I bought a Carista dongle, arrived today and all good. Works fine.

I just left it plugged in.

I passed by the car there, was locked about 30 minutes ago. There is still a little light coming from the carista dongle. Is this light on the whole time?

Could it affect or drain the normal battery?

I don’t want to go out in mor in game car does
not start due to this dongle sapping power.

mordeith

I'd imagine the power to the dongle would be absolutely minuscule and would not negatively effect the battery.

obi604

mordeith wrote: »

I'd imagine the power to the dongle would be absolutely minuscule and would not negatively effect the battery.

Yeah. Get ya. I’ve been stung before by leaving on a supposedly small minuscule reading light Hopefully this dongle will be ok.

KCross

obi604 wrote: »

Yeah. Get ya. I’ve been stung before by leaving on a supposedly small minuscule reading light Hopefully this dongle will be ok.

If it stays on all night it will drain the 12V. 30mins would be fine but it needs to auto shutdown after that.

Did you check it after a few hours?

obi604

KCross wrote: »

If it stays on all night it will drain the 12V. 30mins would be fine but it needs to auto shutdown after that.

Did you check it after a few hours?

The light seemed to be on all night. As in I came out in morning and hard to see with the brightness if dongle
Light was on but seemed to be. Was on after 6 hours when I checked late last night.
Car started fine this morning.

KCross

I think you'll be taking a chance leaving it plugged in 24/7 if it doesnt turn itself off. My guess is you'll come out to a dead 12V some morning.... probably first frosty morning.

Just plug it in when you want to interrogate the car and leave it out otherwise. Dont plug it in/out everyday. That will just wear the connectors.

obi604

KCross wrote: »

I think you'll be taking a chance leaving it plugged in 24/7 if it doesnt turn itself off. My guess is you'll come out to a dead 12V some morning.... probably first frosty morning.

Just plug it in when you want to interrogate the car and leave it out otherwise. Dont plug it in/out everyday. That will just wear the connectors.

Yeah. Could be a risk alright. Didn’t cause any issues with it being in overnight on the 1st night anyway.

You would think these things would switch off after the car has been powered off.

obi604

Would this be alright as a charge point for a 2011 gen 1 leaf?

https://www.adverts.ie/18427898

unkel

Yep. And at EUR120 it's a steal

obi604

unkel wrote: »

Yep. And at EUR120 it's a steal

I see there is also a 16 amp version of this for sale.
What’s the difference again in simple terms?

McGiver

obi604 wrote: »

unkel wrote: »

Yep. And at EUR120 it's a steal

I see there is also a 16 amp version of this for sale.
What’s the difference again in simple terms?

The charging "speed".

16 A * 230 V = 3680 W (3.7 kW)
32 A * 230 V = 7360 W (7.4 kW)

obi604

McGiver wrote: »

The charging "speed".

16 A * 230 V = 3680 W (3.7 kW)
32 A * 230 V = 7360 W (7.4 kW)

Grand. Thanks.
My car only has the 3.6kw onboard charger. Is the is 7.4 charger a waste?

McGiver

obi604 wrote: »

McGiver wrote: »

The charging "speed".

16 A * 230 V = 3680 W (3.7 kW)
32 A * 230 V = 7360 W (7.4 kW)

Grand. Thanks.
My car only has the 3.6kw onboard charger. Is the is 7.4 charger a waste?

No, if plan to stick with EVs. Which almost every owner does. The difference in price is negligible AFAIK so 32A is the one to go for.

I thought you couldn't install a charger due to renting / landlord issue?

obi604

McGiver wrote: »

No, if plan to stick with EVs. Which almost every owner does. The difference in price is negligible AFAIK so 32A is the one to go for.

I thought you couldn't install a charger due to renting / landlord issue?

I’m just looking at the options.

1. Buy this for 120. And get the electrician to install. And use grant, should all be covered under grant.

2. Install an external weatherproof 3 pin plug and use with granny charger. Don’t think any fancy cabling needed here like in 1 above or am I wrong? I’m hoping this install would be a lot cheaper than 1 above.

Thing is, I am only renting this house. so any cabling that’s done will not really be for my long term benefit, so I’m trying to get it done in the cheapest way possible.