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Epoxy/resin floor

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  • 10-07-2019 7:56pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 9,454 ✭✭✭


    Has anyone attempted this as a DIY job? I cannot find companies in Ireland that offer residential jobs. So considering trying my utility to start.


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Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 3,660 ✭✭✭policarp


    Can't help, but would love to know how it works out.


  • Registered Users Posts: 9,454 ✭✭✭mloc123


    Planning to get started in a week or so... will update with pictures on progress


  • Registered Users Posts: 208 ✭✭keithdub


    What's the costs of the epoxy I would imagine it's not cheap


  • Registered Users Posts: 9,454 ✭✭✭mloc123




  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 10,140 Mod ✭✭✭✭BryanF


    Have you read the data sheet? Do you need to scabble (mechanically scrape top surface) of the floor first?


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  • Registered Users Posts: 9,454 ✭✭✭mloc123


    BryanF wrote: »
    Have you read the data sheet? Do you need to scabble (mechanically scrape top surface) of the floor first?

    this is not the resin I plan to use, the directions for the other one is to prime/seal first and apply to smooth surface providing the surface is porous enough to absorb water


  • Registered Users Posts: 9,454 ✭✭✭mloc123


    I am planning to lift the current tiles and grinding the floor flat (removing the adhesive with a concrete grinder) tomorrow. Depending on how successful this is I will decide on the next steps.


  • Registered Users Posts: 9,454 ✭✭✭mloc123


    Kicked off today, lifting old tiles and stripping back to concrete. Successful day, when stripped back a small amount of aggregate is exposed.. leaving me 3 options, apply a clear satin epoxy/PU coat now, a coloured coat as originally planned or go down the route of polishing it and then sealing.


  • Registered Users Posts: 27,073 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    What are you going to add for grip?
    A wet utility is a frequent occurrence and plain epoxy will be lethal


  • Registered Users Posts: 74 ✭✭Le shovelle


    Great results from grinding. Could you post a picture of the type of grinder your using. Really interested in this. Thanks


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  • Registered Users Posts: 9,454 ✭✭✭mloc123


    Grip wise, I am not sure. Likely I will put down a clear coat of expoxy sealer first and see. I cannot imagine it being slippier than porceline tiles. The epoxy coverings all advertise as being slip resistant. If I feel more is needed I can include a grit additive in a second coat.

    The grinder was a handheld Makita which I rented from Sam Hire. Looks like a 7" angle grinder and came with a dust shroud and extractor. The messiest party if the job was the initial lifting of the tiles.

    I have ruled out polishing further after some research. Next step is to apply a clear satin expoxy sealer, see what it looks like and either leave that or apply a coloured PU top coat.


  • Registered Users Posts: 9,454 ✭✭✭mloc123


    Only picture if have of the concrete grinder


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,660 ✭✭✭policarp


    Good luck with your project.
    If it goes wrong ,

    an expensive mistake.

    But hopefully not.


  • Registered Users Posts: 9,454 ✭✭✭mloc123


    Still waiting on my "express delivery" epoxy sealer to be delivered... 4 days later. Hopefully have it for the weekend and can get a test coat on.

    Cost wise, clear sealer is coming in around 2-3e/sqm so the total outlay so far is low.


  • Registered Users Posts: 9,454 ✭✭✭mloc123


    Clear sealer/primer coat applied now... Quite simple process, most difficult part was weighing the two components and mixing thoroughly.
    I quite like the finish but... I have ghost lines from the tiles that were removed, the internet says there is no solution to this. The colour is also quite dark... so with both of these in mind I am going to put a solid colour coat down.

    Plan on a colour like this - https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/53ce913ae4b0c40270c62003/1558346612779-A8DOIZHEP7A2X9L8E4PQ/ke17ZwdGBToddI8pDm48kFWxnDtCdRm2WA9rXcwtIYR7gQa3H78H3Y0txjaiv_0fDoOvxcdMmMKkDsyUqMSsMWxHk725yiiHCCLfrh8O1z5QPOohDIaIeljMHgDF5CVlOqpeNLcJ80NK65_fV7S1UcTSrQkGwCGRqSxozz07hWZrYGYYH8sg4qn8Lpf9k1pYMHPsat2_S1jaQY3SwdyaXg/Chasingspace-grey-resin-floor.jpg?format=2500w


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,660 ✭✭✭policarp


    Looking good.
    What is the setting time?


  • Registered Users Posts: 9,454 ✭✭✭mloc123


    policarp wrote: »
    Looking good.
    What is the setting time?

    It took 12 hours to set enough to stand on, the data sheet says it takes 7 days to fully harden. Hoped to pick up a top colour today but shop is closed till Monday


  • Registered Users Posts: 9,454 ✭✭✭mloc123


    First coat of colour down today, 24hr cure time and then a second.


  • Registered Users Posts: 74 ✭✭Le shovelle


    mloc123 wrote: »
    First coat of colour down today, 24hr cure time and then a second.

    Looking good


  • Registered Users Posts: 9,454 ✭✭✭mloc123


    For anyone interested in the details, here is a list of supplies used...

    https://www.vinnybyrne.com/food-grade-2k-epoxy-clear-floor-sealer-kit-5lt.html - Clear sealer/primer
    https://www.vinnybyrne.com/mixed-colour-1k-2k/floor-paints/food-safe-floor-paints/juno-dynapok-food-safe-water-based-2pack-epoxi-floor-paint-white.html - Top coat (mixed to RAL 7035)

    Cost wise, epoxy came in at 250e total (this is also enough to do my kitchen floor - next month), the concrete grinder was 70e to hire for a weekend and I will need to hire it again to do my kitchen floor.

    Slip resistance, the top layer is rated at 'class 3' I am unsure exactly what that means but running my hand over the cured first coat there is more resistance than the tiles it replaced.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 8,430 ✭✭✭Markcheese


    That looks really good, fair dues, did you just remove the skirting and go to the edge of the plaster? Or did you work up the side of the wall a bit?

    Slava ukraini 🇺🇦



  • Registered Users Posts: 8,430 ✭✭✭Markcheese


    That looks really good, fair dues, did you just remove the skirting and go to the edge of the plaster? Or did you work up the side of the wall a bit?

    Slava ukraini 🇺🇦



  • Registered Users Posts: 9,454 ✭✭✭mloc123


    Markcheese wrote: »
    That looks really good, fair dues, did you just remove the skirting and go to the edge of the plaster? Or did you work up the side of the wall a bit?

    For grinding I removed the skirting, for putting the coats down I didn't. I need to paint the skirting board when it is all complete (currently it is just primed) so I didn't mind getting some epoxy overlap on it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 9,454 ✭✭✭mloc123


    Final update for now (I'll get pictures of the kitchen when done)

    Second coat on and 48hr cure now. I think it takes 7 days to fully harden up but already feels hard. Happy with the final result.


  • Registered Users Posts: 24,155 ✭✭✭✭Sleepy


    I'm planning to do this in our downstairs bathroom with bottlecaps (in place of the traditional pennies) so delighted to read that the epoxy is slip resistant.

    Did you find that it levelled itself well? Or were you working from a perfectly level floor in the first place?


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,705 ✭✭✭BeardySi


    Sleepy wrote: »
    I'm planning to do this in our downstairs bathroom with bottlecaps (in place of the traditional pennies) so delighted to read that the epoxy is slip resistant.

    Did you find that it levelled itself well? Or were you working from a perfectly level floor in the first place?

    Fallout fan or beer fan? If you're looking for Nuka Cola or any of the fallout brands, drop me a line! ;)


  • Registered Users Posts: 9,454 ✭✭✭mloc123


    Sleepy wrote: »
    I'm planning to do this in our downstairs bathroom with bottlecaps (in place of the traditional pennies) so delighted to read that the epoxy is slip resistant.

    Did you find that it levelled itself well? Or were you working from a perfectly level floor in the first place?

    I have seen the penny floor guides and the epoxy seems more like glass fibre resin. The floor epoxy I used goes down with a consistency more like an oil based gloss paint. I do not think it would be suitable for penny floor.

    Have you been collecting bottle tops? I looked at the videos... even watching the process of sticking them all down was tedious :pac:


  • Registered Users Posts: 208 ✭✭keithdub


    Sleepy wrote: »
    I'm planning to do this in our downstairs bathroom with bottlecaps (in place of the traditional pennies) so delighted to read that the epoxy is slip resistant.

    Did you find that it levelled itself well? Or were you working from a perfectly level floor in the first place?
    Just off the top of my head you would want to fill the caps first with gripfill (or something solid) just don't put them down with a heavy weight on them they could buckle in. It does sound like a good idea and would love to see. Did you look at making some custom caps made?


  • Registered Users Posts: 24,155 ✭✭✭✭Sleepy


    Hadn't thought of getting custom caps, we've been collecting any interesting ones from craft beers for the past three years and reckon we have enough but I absolutely love the idea of getting a custom cap made up for each member of our family so we can "sign" our work!

    From what I've seen on on-line tutorials most use a tile adhesive to fill and bed in the caps, grout them (preferably with a dark grout) and then pour the resin.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 9,454 ✭✭✭mloc123


    Started kitchen floor this weekend. Lifting tiles and grinding the thinset back flat was a pig of a job... 3sqm utility was fine. 20sqm not so much. Done now at least.


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