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Wooden Shed sheeting

  • 13-04-2019 10:45pm
    #1
    tmccar
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 152 ✭✭


    I was wondering what material to use for sheeting walls in a wooden shed. I had been thinking of 18mm plywood but the weight of the sheets could be an issue for me. Would 12mm plywood be ok, or is there a better solution?
    (I will be constructing the wall frame from 2x4 boards, with joists at each 18")
    Tagged:


Comments

  • #2
    tabby aspreme
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,100 ✭✭✭tabby aspreme


    12 mm plywood would be fine, but put the 4 ✖ 2 at 400 mm or 16" centers, to match the size, of the sheets of ply. Before you build, check if the plywood is in 2.4 m or 8 ft sheets.


  • #3
    my3cents
    Closed Accounts Posts: 9,764 ✭✭✭my3cents


    Shiplap boards or feather edge boards would be the normal way. Put a membrane over the frame before putting feather edge boards on and they will probably be lighter than 12mm plywood.


  • #4
    tmccar
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 152 ✭✭tmccar


    my3cents wrote: »
    Shiplap boards or feather edge boards would be the normal way. Put a membrane over the frame before putting feather edge boards on and they will probably be lighter than 12mm plywood.

    I think I'll go with shiplap because it will give it a more "finished" look.


  • #5
    my3cents
    Closed Accounts Posts: 9,764 ✭✭✭my3cents


    tmccar wrote: »
    I think I'll go with shiplap because it will give it a more "finished" look.

    Don't forget to put a membrane (permeable if you can afford it) under the shiplap, it makes a massive difference and can't be done latter.

    If you have the time screw the shiplap on (keep the screws away from the over lap at the bottom and only screw through the thick part of the shiplap). With screws you can make changes later a lot more easily.


  • #6
    tmccar
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 152 ✭✭tmccar


    my3cents wrote: »
    Don't forget to put a membrane (permeable if you can afford it) under the shiplap, it makes a massive difference and can't be done latter.

    If you have the time screw the shiplap on (keep the screws away from the over lap at the bottom and only screw through the thick part of the shiplap). With screws you can make changes later a lot more easily.


    Hmmm.. I was going to go with nails so they wouldn't be visible.
    Is the membrane mainly for waterproofing, and what thickness should I get?


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  • #7
    Idioteque
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 633 ✭✭✭Idioteque


    my3cents wrote: »
    Don't forget to put a membrane (permeable if you can afford it) under the shiplap, it makes a massive difference and can't be done latter.

    Why put a membrane in?


  • #8
    my3cents
    Closed Accounts Posts: 9,764 ✭✭✭my3cents


    Idioteque wrote: »
    Why put a membrane in?

    Because shiplap isn't totally waterproof and once it warps a bit and shrinks a good wind will blow the rain up underneath the overlaps.

    Any of the membranes that go under roof tiles are fine breathable would be better but not totally necessary for a shed.


  • #9
    GreeBo
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 27,370 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    my3cents wrote: »
    Because shiplap isn't totally waterproof and once it warps a bit and shrinks a good wind will blow the rain up underneath the overlaps.

    Any of the membranes that go under roof tiles are fine breathable would be better but not totally necessary for a shed.

    I'd membrane the whole thing, unless you are pretty good at replacing the "felt" on-time its going to crack and expose the wooden roof to water, probably on a wet, windy winters day. :(


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