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Are these trees dead?

  • 25-03-2019 6:11pm
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,913 ✭✭✭


    I think the roots got damaged when the boundary wall was being rebuild last year. I thought that because of the snow and the hot summer that they would reestablish themselves this year but it's not looking good.

    uBoSlEO.jpg

    s9SWZmp.jpg


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    They look pretty dead to me, Horrible looking things anyway.
    At least this will give you a chance to replant with some more attractive trees!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,195 ✭✭✭GrumpyMe


    Looks like it - however just to be sure cut them off at about three inches from ground level.

    Congratulations at least four less abominations! (I'm slightly biased, sorry)

    Lawson cypress will quickly provide a barrier between houses but they are not really suitable.

    You now get to plant something more suitable.

    Ha Ha CJ got there before me!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,919 ✭✭✭Odelay


    Yep, they’re dead.
    You’re very luck, they died just in time before they grew out of control.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 110 ✭✭J Cheevor Loophole


    RIP.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,913 ✭✭✭v638sg7k1a92bx


    CJhaughey wrote: »
    They look pretty dead to me, Horrible looking things anyway.
    At least this will give you a chance to replant with some more attractive trees!
    GrumpyMe wrote: »
    Looks like it - however just to be sure cut them off at about three inches from ground level.

    Congratulations at least four less abominations! (I'm slightly biased, sorry)

    Lawson cypress will quickly provide a barrier between houses but they are not really suitable.

    You now get to plant something more suitable.

    Ha Ha CJ got there before me!

    lol. Why do they get so much hate? I actually liked them, dark green, provided a good screen for privacy, trimmed them back once per year.

    Any suggestions on what to replace them with, it's a busy main end of row main road so I will want to plant something fully grown, I can't wait years.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,913 ✭✭✭v638sg7k1a92bx


    Odelay wrote: »
    Yep, they’re dead.
    You’re very luck, they died just in time before they grew out of control.

    What was the name of these trees btw?

    Will the roots be hard to get out of the ground?


  • Posts: 5,121 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    What was the name of these trees btw?

    Will the roots be hard to get out of the ground?

    leylandii - they just keep growing and are relative dead zones for nature


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 31,218 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    Leave the roots in the ground.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,195 ✭✭✭GrumpyMe


    lol. Why do they get so much hate?...


    Well... my neighbours have them, so I do as well. :rolleyes:
    I've to keep them in check on my side, because he doesn't!
    I come out in a rash from whatever chemical they release.
    They consume all the moisture out of the earth for "miles" around.
    They do create a dead zone.
    They don't even burn well!



    They are a fine windbreak out in the wilds where they can grow naturally to a height of 15m but they are not suitable for peaceful urban life unless work is put into keeping them in check.


    To replace the screen you had - bamboo (it has it's haters too!). Quick to grow and tall too. They creep but can be contained in situ with membrane.


    Lots of other choices but none that are a quick replacement.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 29,089 ✭✭✭✭looksee


    I am not sure how you are going to grow a decent hedge with leylandii roots in the ground - and even if they are removed the soil is not going to be much.

    Idle musing...I wonder if you could consider trimming off the bulk of the twiggy stuff and leave skeleton trees that you grow an assortment of vigorous evergreen clematis up? I have my doubts tbh. And eventually the trees will rot and fall over, but at least by then you could plant some new stuff. Its probably not a very bright idea but sometimes you have to share these daft ideas.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 145 ✭✭Teepinaw


    I think the roots got damaged when the boundary wall was being rebuild last year. I thought that because of the snow and the hot summer that they would reestablish themselves this year but it's not looking good.

    uBoSlEO.jpg

    s9SWZmp.jpg

    Ugh, get them out. They'd take the wall with them if left grow.

    Don't leave the roots, hack away at them.

    Best place for leylandii is as a wind breaker if you had a house on a cliff off Donegal.

    They are very acidic, will take the paint off cars parked near them and no worms can live in the soil around them. The don't attract any native wildlife whatsoever.

    Replace with something beautiful, flowering and Irish/indigenous if possible.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 31,218 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    looksee wrote: »
    I am not sure how you are going to grow a decent hedge with leylandii roots in the ground - and even if they are removed the soil is not going to be much.
    Hmmm. I'm currently trying to grow an Eleagnus ebbingei hedge under a row of growing Lleylandii, because I don't want ten years of staring into my neighbour's windows. Plan is to chop the Lleylandii when the hedge is at a good 4-5ft.

    They've had two winters and the last awful summer where I foolishly respected the hosepipe ban, and haven't done much yet. Certainly much less growth than the Viburnum I have out in the open. I've deliberately not watered or fertilised them as I don't think it's a good idea with new plants, better to let them adapt to their environment. But this year I might try some balanced fertiliser and drip irrigation.

    I did pick the Eleagnus for their eventual height and suitablilty for underplanting (which I read to mean they do OK when competing for water and nutrients), but in hindsight some laurel might have done better.

    I guess the OP could always build up the soil to make a raised bed, but I don't really like the extremely narrow bed between the wall and the paving, looks to be only about a foot wide and may be rain sheltered by the wall. Most things are are going to struggle there regardless of the Lleylandii roots.

    edit: pics: https://imgur.com/a/pokSo27


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,913 ✭✭✭v638sg7k1a92bx


    Teepinaw wrote: »

    Replace with something beautiful, flowering and Irish/indigenous if possible.

    Like what?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,919 ✭✭✭Odelay


    Like what?

    Holly?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,275 ✭✭✭bobbyss


    Like what?


    No expert here, just an amateur. I had leylandi but chopped them down. Too big. Ugly. Spent weeks and weeks with hatchet, axe and crowbar getting the roots out. But enjoyable too. Took out all my frustrations on them.

    Porteguese laurel ? They're hedging and I believe can stand about-20 degrees.
    Goldcrest? A bit boring though.
    We got a Canadian spruce. Slow growing but nice.
    Not grislenia. Spelling is probably wrong. This is the absolute bog standard hedging you see around the place. Yet many were destroyed in the big freeze.
    A mixture plants would work well perhaps?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 31,218 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    I don't really see the point in planting a thick hedge in front of a wall, unless you really need privacy over 2m.

    Better to plant individual attractive shrubs that bring colour, flowers and interesting leaf colours at different times of year.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,913 ✭✭✭v638sg7k1a92bx


    Lumen wrote: »
    I don't really see the point in planting a thick hedge in front of a wall, unless you really need privacy over 2m.

    Better to plant individual attractive shrubs that bring colour, flowers and interesting leaf colours at different times of year.

    Really need the privacy. Main road end of terrace with a car park and businesses next door.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,913 ✭✭✭v638sg7k1a92bx


    Odelay wrote: »
    Holly?

    Stop with the Holly please.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 110 ✭✭J Cheevor Loophole


    Lumen wrote: »
    Leave the roots in the ground.
    I would leave the roots in the ground. Even if you were hacking live Cypress's to the ground, they wouldn't regenerate from old wood anyway. A lot of work for nothing. With the soil poor and probably acidic, have you considered buying mature silver Birch trees. You could coppice them in later years to your own requirements. A bark mulch at the beginning to get them established. Native and wildlife friendly. Even bare rooted Birches would survive there.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,913 ✭✭✭v638sg7k1a92bx


    I would leave the roots in the ground. Even if you were hacking live Cypress's to the ground, they wouldn't regenerate from old wood anyway. A lot of work for nothing. With the soil poor and probably acidic, have you considered buying mature silver Birch trees. You could coppice them in later years to your own requirements. A bark mulch at the beginning to get them established. Native and wildlife friendly. Even bare rooted Birches would survive there.

    But would a birch tree provide as much screening cover?

    When you say bark mulch at the beginning, do you mean bark mulch in the soil where they are growing?


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 110 ✭✭J Cheevor Loophole


    Birches are deciduous, so it's a filtered screening from Nov to April, and you get to coppice to your desired height. But they're fairly quick growers, even in poor soil, so there's a trade off. It's not ideal for sure, but evergreens ( if they take in that soil ) would be a gamble and take longer to provide the screen you want.
    Bark mulch is a good start to any tree planting whatever you decide ( moisture retention / weed suppression ) the mulch eventually breaking down organically.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,913 ✭✭✭v638sg7k1a92bx


    Could I plant some laurels in between and wait for them to grow while theses trees are dying?


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 50,857 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    i don't think they're dying; they're dead.
    re planting between them; the soil could be exhausted, or possibly overrun with roots. not an ideal medium to plant into, i'd guess.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,174 ✭✭✭standardg60


    It's not an ideal situation but there looks like there's enough space between them to get some new plants in as long as you can dig a hole deep enough. Add plenty of fertilizer as the soil will be fairly impoverished, but at least the leylandii are no longer taking up nutrients and water.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,913 ✭✭✭v638sg7k1a92bx


    It's not an ideal situation but there looks like there's enough space between them to get some new plants in as long as you can dig a hole deep enough. Add plenty of fertilizer as the soil will be fairly impoverished, but at least the leylandii are no longer taking up nutrients and water.

    Do you mean liquid fertilizer?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,174 ✭✭✭standardg60


    No a granular fertilizer that you can dig into the soil, it would be far stronger than a liquid one.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,913 ✭✭✭v638sg7k1a92bx


    No a granular fertilizer that you can dig into the soil, it would be far stronger than a liquid one.

    Like chicken pellets?

    Realistically how much would you need?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 24,557 ✭✭✭✭lawred2


    CJhaughey wrote: »
    They look pretty dead to me, Horrible looking things anyway.
    At least this will give you a chance to replant with some more attractive trees!

    Agreed they are awful things


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 13,992 ✭✭✭✭recedite


    Really need the privacy. Main road end of terrace with a car park and businesses next door.
    In that case I'll go against the flow here, and say plant the same again.
    They'll be back up to the height in about 4 or 5 years, and just make sure to keep them topped after that.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 18,717 ✭✭✭✭_Brian


    I wonder would western red cedar be a better option.
    Good growth rates, good screening.

    But what sets them aside from leylandi is that you can cut them back to old wood and they regrow. That makes managing them much easier.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 13,992 ✭✭✭✭recedite


    _Brian wrote: »
    I wonder would western red cedar be a better option.
    Good growth rates, good screening.

    But what sets them aside from leylandi is that you can cut them back to old wood and they regrow. That makes managing them much easier.
    What are they like for remaining reasonably green and bushy at the lower level? Say they were being maintained at a constant height of 3 metres or so.

    I've noticed that Leylandi are better than Lawson's for this.


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