Mercedes Benz C class 2008. Petrol

tom_tarbucket

Hi,

I always admired this type of car:

https://www.donedeal.ie/view/19672237

Just has nice alloys and a nice shape.

Any particular thoughts on this car?

I’ve read some places that done engine tyes like w203 ;(I think) are prone to issues. And that these issues are only on earlier models.

Not sure if I got the above right though.

And not sure what engine is in this car and if it’s affected.

colm_mcm

Just on that particular one it looks like the passenger doors are off a different car.

In general I think they’re an overlooked car, and happily don’t have the baggage that goes with having an A4 of that era.

tom_tarbucket

colm_mcm wrote: »

Just on that particular one it looks like the passenger doors are off a different car.

In general I think they’re an overlooked car, and happily don’t have the baggage that goes with having an A4 of that era.

Oh ok. Thanks.

What do you mean by the baggage thing?

Do you know anything about the engine codes or Tommy ng chain stretch issues?

colm_mcm

Well around here, the A4 is the car of choice for the sort of person that would have been driving a Bora or a Toledo with a Nurburgring sticker 5 years ago and a B6 Passat with chrome door handles 2 years ago. You know the type.

Sorry I don’t know about the engines, only on the W203, can’t remember if there were revisions.

tom_tarbucket

anyone else have any comments about engine codes ?
and whether particular early 2008 engines were bad

Mike2006

We had a C180 from new from 2008 to 2016.
1.8T petrol auto - great car. Decent enough performance ~ 156bhp rwd.
Never skipped a beat.

Mike

islanderre

I drive a 2008 1.8 kompressor auto version like the one in your link.

We have it a few years now. Their is 104k miles on it now and we got it with just over 30k miles if I remember correctly.

Anyway, this is the first year it's cost us more than normal running costs as we had to get the steering lock fixed €500 and the centre propshaft bearing which we got done same time as the auto box fluid €250.

The Merc indy we use has recommended we get the timing chain done soon as if we don't; it may mean having to do the camshaft sprockets too which are €500 a piece. Planning on getting it done soon.

Lovely car to drive; reliable overall but yes budget for the steering lock and the timing chain if they haven't been done already.

tom_tarbucket

Mike2006 wrote: »

We had a C180 from new from 2008 to 2016.
1.8T petrol auto - great car. Decent enough performance ~ 156bhp rwd.
Never skipped a beat.

Mike

thanks Mike

did you have the steering lock issue or any timing chain issues?

tom_tarbucket

islanderre wrote: »

I drive a 2008 1.8 kompressor auto version like the one in your link.

We have it a few years now. Their is 104k miles on it now and we got it with just over 30k miles if I remember correctly.

Anyway, this is the first year it's cost us more than normal running costs as we had to get the steering lock fixed €500 and the centre propshaft bearing which we got done same time as the auto box fluid €250.

The Merc indy we use has recommended we get the timing chain done soon as if we don't; it may mean having to do the camshaft sprockets too which are €500 a piece. Planning on getting it done soon.

Lovely car to drive; reliable overall but yes budget for the steering lock and the timing chain if they haven't been done already.

is timing chain like on certain BMW's, where it can cost a few thousand to replace?

colm_mcm

tom_tarbucket wrote: »

is timing chain like on certain BMW's, where it can cost a few thousand to replace?

They had the manners to out the timing chain at the front of the engine and not against the bulkhead like BMW did.

tom_tarbucket

colm_mcm wrote: »

They had the manners to out the timing chain at the front of the engine and not against the bulkhead like BMW did.

Oh ok. So roughly how much to sort on a c180?

islanderre

I've no idea the cost to get the chain and I presume the tensioner will be done too at the same time.
I'm not expecting to pay more than €500 provided the camshaft sprockets don't need doing.
As Colm said above; the chain is on the front of the engine so an easy job really if you've the right tools.

colm_mcm

I think around €600-700 Assuming there’s no damage and it’s just a preventive job.

Slanty

Drove a c180 auto for 4 years. Super car and very reliable. Put 150k km on it without a glitch.

However I did do some preventive maintenance,
Chain and tensioner, you can pick up kits including the sprockets for very cheap now.

Camshaft sensors leak which lets oil into the electrical system and runs through to the ECU.

Corroded break lines. This failed the nct and is not the easiest job to do.

All in all it was a pleasure to drive with a decent spec if you get the AMG edition.

tom_tarbucket

Mike2006 wrote: »

We had a C180 from new from 2008 to 2016.
1.8T petrol auto - great car. Decent enough performance ~ 156bhp rwd.
Never skipped a beat.

Mike

What was your driving style?
How was the MPG?

road_high

Curious, how much is the road tax on a post July 08 one of these?

colm_mcm

€750-€1200 depending on config.

tom_tarbucket

colm_mcm wrote: »

€750-€1200 depending on config.

On DoneDeal, I’ve seen all different prices for tax, not sure if correct but have seen 570, 636 and 750.

Haven’t seen anything above 750.

colm_mcm

636 is cc based tax, there were no Irish versions that didn’t have €750/€1200 tax, but there were some imports (3 or 4) that fell into the lower €570 bracket for whatever reason.

Source:SIMI stats.

road_high

I’d imagine the autos are slightly higher tax would we maybe.

colm_mcm

Could be. Estate might be too, could depend on wheel size etc.

Lekrub

I’ve had my 06 c200 kompressor Amg spec a couple of years now. It’s unreal value and quality. 163hp auto.
Only 1 previous owner but even though the chain was changed before, the sprockets were worn down and so I had to also change the sprockets and chain. I sourced decent strong parts but still cost over €1k. So I’m keeping it for awhile to cos of this.

While researching this I read the w204 definitely still suffers the same problem (bmws too up to 2014?). So just make sure that’s done. Very important.

My next car will be a w204, but the only draw back I see is the basic interior quality is way below the spec I have in my w203. Currently large colour centre screen & leather dash, leather seats everything etc. Most w204s I have seen have hard cheap plastic everywhere and a tiny old school orange screen. But the body is beautiful.

So I’d say go for it, but make sure the chain is taken care of or do it yourself, plus don’t get a basic spec one.

tom_tarbucket

Lekrub wrote: »

I’ve had my 06 c200 kompressor Amg spec a couple of years now. It’s unreal value and quality. 163hp auto.
Only 1 previous owner but even though the chain was changed before, the sprockets were worn down and so I had to also change the sprockets and chain. I sourced decent strong parts but still cost over €1k. So I’m keeping it for awhile to cos of this.

While researching this I read the w204 definitely still suffers the same problem (bmws too up to 2014?). So just make sure that’s done. Very important.

My next car will be a w204, but the only draw back I see is the basic interior quality is way below the spec I have in my w203. Currently large colour centre screen & leather dash, leather seats everything etc. Most w204s I have seen have hard cheap plastic everywhere and a tiny old school orange screen. But the body is beautiful.

So I’d say go for it, but make sure the chain is taken care of or do it yourself, plus don’t get a basic spec one.

Hi. Thanks for input. Is the w204 engine equal to the one from 2008 onwards ?

tom_tarbucket

Is the 2008 car I linked a kompressor model?

Are all these petrol cars kompressor?

Is kompressor just another word for turbo?

bazz26

Kompressor is German speak for supercharger which is different to turbocharged, all petrol engines in that model C Class would have been supercharged.

tom_tarbucket

Thanks. Does anybody have any comments on the real world MPG for this car — for short runs, I’d presume fairly crap.

kerten

tom_tarbucket wrote: »

Thanks. Does anybody have any comments on the real world MPG for this car — for short runs, I’d presume fairly crap.

for automatic ones:

https://www.spritmonitor.de/en/overview/28-Mercedes-Benz/270-C-Klasse.html?fueltype=2&constyear_s=2008&constyear_e=2010&power_s=150&gearing=2&exactmodel=c180&powerunit=2

tom_tarbucket

kerten wrote: »

for automatic ones:

https://www.spritmonitor.de/en/overview/28-Mercedes-Benz/270-C-Klasse.html?fueltype=2&constyear_s=2008&constyear_e=2010&power_s=150&gearing=2&exactmodel=c180&powerunit=2

Thanks. So 9.17 l/100km which is 30 mpg.
Not bad I suppose for an older petrol automatic.

tom_tarbucket

tom_tarbucket wrote: »

Thanks. Does anybody have any comments on the real world MPG for this car — for short runs, I’d presume fairly crap.

Depends how you drive it but tipping around the suburbs, 7.5-8.5L/100km would be about right. Sitting in traffic, 9.5-10.5L/100km wouldn’t unusual. A longer run cruising at 90-100km/h will see you between 6.5-7L/100km. Cruise at 80km/h and that can be as low as 6L/100km. That’s my experience in a W204 estate with 1.8L and autobox. Is it the 7-Gtronic gearbox in whatever you’re looking at, or the older 5 speed?

tom_tarbucket

JayZeus wrote: »

Depends how you drive it but tipping around the suburbs, 7.5-8.5L/100km would be about right. Sitting in traffic, 9.5-10.5L/100km wouldn’t unusual. A longer run cruising at 90-100km/h will see you between 6.5-7L/100km. Cruise at 80km/h and that can be as low as 6L/100km. That’s my experience in a W204 estate with 1.8L and autobox. Is it the 7-Gtronic gearbox in whatever you’re looking at, or the older 5 speed?

Hi.

Thanks a million for the detailed figures.

I’d be looking for an auto and whatever auto offering us in the 2008 C class.

How has your reliability been?

tom_tarbucket

JayZeus wrote: »

Depends how you drive it but tipping around the suburbs, 7.5-8.5L/100km would be about right. Sitting in traffic, 9.5-10.5L/100km wouldn’t unusual. A longer run cruising at 90-100km/h will see you between 6.5-7L/100km. Cruise at 80km/h and that can be as low as 6L/100km. That’s my experience in a W204 estate with 1.8L and autobox. Is it the 7-Gtronic gearbox in whatever you’re looking at, or the older 5 speed?

Hi.

Thanks a million for the detailed figures.

I’d be looking for an auto and whatever auto offering us in the 2008 C class.

How has your reliability been?

tom_tarbucket

tom_tarbucket wrote: »

Hi.

Thanks a million for the detailed figures.

I’d be looking for an auto and whatever auto offering us in the 2008 C class.

How has your reliability been?

Bump 😇

For context, I have a facelift model W204 C180 CGI wagon with the AMG kit and Avantgarde trim. It has every option that was available when it was ordered, with the exceptions that it only has half leather and no reversing camera. NTG4.5 head unit with media drive, 7" display, Nav, media interface, attention assist, auto-wipers, blind spot assist, lane keeping assist, HID intelligent lighting system (just brilliant stuff), memory seats etc. etc. etc.

Apart from standard servicing the only things I've had to change were the rear tailgate gas struts (€60 for a pair of genuine Stabilus units from Germany and 5 minutes to fit) and a HID ballast (€700-800 in dealer including fitting or my route which was €46 for the part from eBay Germany and an hours work with two spanners and a youtube video to guide me) which I reckon is perfectly reasonable.

One of the radars in the back bumper for the blind spot assist stopped working when it got properly soaked (power hose left pumping water up at it for a few minutes when I was overzealous about cleaning it while up on a ramp, my fault entirely) but when I took it out and dried it out, it worked perfectly again.

If you're looking at the 2008 model, it's the earlier version of the M271 engine (mine's a turbo variant as opposed to the supercharged type) and has the 5 speed gearbox. Aside from the possibility that you'll need to get the cam chain, sprockets and tensioners/adjusters done, there's nothing specifically to be worried about IMHO. Even with my later engine variant there's every LIKELIHOOD I'll have to get the chain job done as it's just something that happens eventually on these engines, but that's hardly the end of the world if you put a few quid aside and just accept that it's a 'routine' type of thing to have to do anyway. There's supposedly plenty of advance warning of the need to change it with it being a little hesitant to start and emitting a rattle for a few seconds when it's started from cold. It's not at all in the same league as the BMW engine somebody mentioned earlier and that we've all heard about by now. Very different thing. Timing chains don't last forever, no matter what some oddballs think.

On a car like this I don't see €1000-1200 or so once every, let's say 150-200,000km or so, to be at all unreasonable. I don't live in fear of it myself, I just accept that sometime in the next couple of years, I'll hear a rattle and then it'll be time to book it in and have the job done. They're a smashing car and I like mine, so I'm happy to get the job done when it's time.

The one thing I'll say to you is this: If you're not under pressure to buy now and can put aside a bit more for the purchase, do yourself a favour and try to find a 2011 onwards W204. The facelift is subtle in some places (headlights, bumper styling etc) but the different between the pre and post facelift interiors is worlds apart. The facelifted C-Class is almost identical inside to the same model year E-Class. Entirely up to you but I'd feel bad if I didn't make the recommendation as it's a bloody big difference IMHO.

tom_tarbucket

JayZeus wrote: »

For context, I have a facelift model W204 C180 CGI wagon with the AMG kit and Avantgarde trim. It has every option that was available when it was ordered, with the exceptions that it only has half leather and no reversing camera. NTG4.5 head unit with media drive, 7" display, Nav, media interface, attention assist, auto-wipers, blind spot assist, lane keeping assist, HID intelligent lighting system (just brilliant stuff), memory seats etc. etc. etc.

Apart from standard servicing the only things I've had to change were the rear tailgate gas struts (€60 for a pair of genuine Stabilus units from Germany and 5 minutes to fit) and a HID ballast (€700-800 in dealer including fitting or my route which was €46 for the part from eBay Germany and an hours work with two spanners and a youtube video to guide me) which I reckon is perfectly reasonable.

One of the radars in the back bumper for the blind spot assist stopped working when it got properly soaked (power hose left pumping water up at it for a few minutes when I was overzealous about cleaning it while up on a ramp, my fault entirely) but when I took it out and dried it out, it worked perfectly again.

If you're looking at the 2008 model, it's the earlier version of the M271 engine (mine's a turbo variant as opposed to the supercharged type) and has the 5 speed gearbox. Aside from the possibility that you'll need to get the cam chain, sprockets and tensioners/adjusters done, there's nothing specifically to be worried about IMHO. Even with my later engine variant there's every LIKELIHOOD I'll have to get the chain job done as it's just something that happens eventually on these engines, but that's hardly the end of the world if you put a few quid aside and just accept that it's a 'routine' type of thing to have to do anyway. There's supposedly plenty of advance warning of the need to change it with it being a little hesitant to start and emitting a rattle for a few seconds when it's started from cold. It's not at all in the same league as the BMW engine somebody mentioned earlier and that we've all heard about by now. Very different thing. Timing chains don't last forever, no matter what some oddballs think.

On a car like this I don't see €1000-1200 or so once every, let's say 150-200,000km or so, to be at all unreasonable. I don't live in fear of it myself, I just accept that sometime in the next couple of years, I'll hear a rattle and then it'll be time to book it in and have the job done. They're a smashing car and I like mine, so I'm happy to get the job done when it's time.

The one thing I'll say to you is this: If you're not under pressure to buy now and can put aside a bit more for the purchase, do yourself a favour and try to find a 2011 onwards W204. The facelift is subtle in some places (headlights, bumper styling etc) but the different between the pre and post facelift interiors is worlds apart. The facelifted C-Class is almost identical inside to the same model year E-Class. Entirely up to you but I'd feel bad if I didn't make the recommendation as it's a bloody big difference IMHO.

Thanks. Great reply.

tom_tarbucket

I know buying any 10 year old car is a risk......but is buying a 10 year old Merc even more risky ?

tom_tarbucket

tom_tarbucket wrote: »

I know buying any 10 year old car is a risk......but is buying a 10 year old Merc even more risky ?

How long is a piece of string?

At the time the W204 went into production it had the highest number of development hours of any production car. Something like 20 million test kilometers logged. Achieved 5 star NCAP rating for adults. It's sold in large numbers and had effectively a 7 year production run.

It's 'just' a car at the end of the day but I would buy based on condition/history, warranty, price and mileage, in that order. If you can't find the 'right' car in your budget, do not buy the 'wrong' one. That's just common sense. Same goes for any make and model.

Buy something in good condition and with a full service history. Check that everything works (ask someone who knows the early 204 to go with you or spend some time on youtube and owners forums reading their buyers guides) and if I were you, buy from a dealer and only with a full 12 month bumper to bumper warranty.

If you can find something that ticks all the boxes at a price you're comfortable paying and with something less than intergalactic mileage, then what else would you have to be worrying about?

tom_tarbucket

JayZeus wrote: »

How long is a piece of string?

At the time the W204 went into production it had the highest number of development hours of any production car. Something like 20 million test kilometers logged. Achieved 5 star NCAP rating for adults. It's sold in large numbers and had effectively a 7 year production run.

It's 'just' a car at the end of the day but I would buy based on condition/history, warranty, price and mileage, in that order. If you can't find the 'right' car in your budget, do not buy the 'wrong' one. That's just common sense. Same goes for any make and model.

Buy something in good condition and with a full service history. Check that everything works (ask someone who knows the early 204 to go with you or spend some time on youtube and owners forums reading their buyers guides) and if I were you, buy from a dealer and only with a full 12 month bumper to bumper warranty.

If you can find something that ticks all the boxes at a price you're comfortable paying and with something less than intergalactic mileage, then what else would you have to be worrying about?

I hear ya. Irish cars and stamped service books seem to be very hit and miss, asked 3 already about this

Answer one was “can’t find service book”
Answer 2 was “when I bought, did not have service book, but I’ve serviced once since “
Answer 3 was vaguely “no idea”

Dealers may not offer a 12 month warranty on an 10/11 year old car though.

kerten

tom_tarbucket wrote: »

I hear ya. Irish cars and stamped service books seem to be very hit and miss, asked 3 already about this

Answer one was “can’t find service book”
Answer 2 was “when I bought, did not have service book, but I’ve serviced once since “
Answer 3 was vaguely “no idea”

Dealers may not offer a 12 month warranty on an 10/11 year old car though.

I would go for private sale for 10-11 years old car. No point to expect dealer to look after you unless he doubles the price initially. That said private sales are minefield with that type of cars so if you can't distinguish a good car from a bad one easily,

On positive side, finding an unabused merc from long time owner should easier than other german brands.

tom_tarbucket

tom_tarbucket wrote: »

I hear ya. Irish cars and stamped service books seem to be very hit and miss, asked 3 already about this

Answer one was “can’t find service book”
Answer 2 was “when I bought, did not have service book, but I’ve serviced once since “
Answer 3 was vaguely “no idea”

Dealers may not offer a 12 month warranty on an 10/11 year old car though.

What's your budget and are you in a position to buy now?

tom_tarbucket

JayZeus wrote: »

What's your budget and are you in a position to buy now?

Ah only about 6000.
Yeah.
Why?

tom_tarbucket

tom_tarbucket wrote: »

Ah only about 6000.
Yeah.
Why?

If that's your budget you shouldn't be buying a 10 year old Merc with that money if you're not prepared to accept that it's a total gamble, simply because you're not spending enough to be shopping in the 'good examples' category.

You may well get a nice car on a private sale, but if it were me, I'd be looking at a different make/model or saving a bit more to buy a better one than your budget is likely to get you right at the moment.

Anyway, best of luck with the search and eventual purchase.

pah

Nice 2007 here

tom_tarbucket

JayZeus wrote: »

If that's your budget you shouldn't be buying a 10 year old Merc with that money if you're not prepared to accept that it's a total gamble, simply because you're not spending enough to be shopping in the 'good examples' category.

You may well get a nice car on a private sale, but if it were me, I'd be looking at a different make/model or saving a bit more to buy a better one than your budget is likely to get you right at the moment.

Anyway, best of luck with the search and eventual purchase.

I would have thought 6000 would be enough for a 10 soon to be 11 year old car.

Fair enough Tom. Like I said, best of luck now with the search and whatever you end up buying.

I'm going to unsub now because I don't think there's any more advice I can offer you.

tom_tarbucket

JayZeus wrote: »

Fair enough Tom. Like I said, best of luck now with the search and whatever you end up buying.

I'm going to unsub now because I don't think there's any more advice I can offer you.

Thanks boss.

tom_tarbucket

In regard to the timing chain issue that these cars suffer:

If I was to bring a car to a mechanic,could he tell me by putting it up on a ramp if the timing chain or sprockets need doing?

jmreire

tom_tarbucket wrote: »

Thanks boss.

There is one or two other things you can do to minimise the risk in buying 2nd hand ( or 3rd, 4th etc)
As already pointed out here, sometime the service history ranges from a fully stamped service booklet, to literally nothing. Its nothing new nowadays to find that the old reliable service booklet is non-existent, and this is true for many makes. This is because manufacturers store everything on their own central computers. IE when they connect your car to the computer in the workshop or dealership where it's being serviced, all that data is transferred to the main computer for that make ( Mercedes = Dublin Ireland =Germany) Before the advent of computers, all faults were logged by the main dealers, then transferred to the HQ, and faults processed from there... it was a time consuming process. Now, if your car shows a fault, its flagged immediately, and thereafter, if similar faults are reported from multiple locations, then it's red flagged. The point of this as far as you are concerned is that you can take your car to your local MB dealership, and ask them to give you a print out of it's service history, Even if the car is 10 years old, all work done on that car in a MB dealership will have been logged, especially any warranty or recalls. Presumably, from when it was new, it would have been serviced in an MB workshop for the first few years on any case?
You can also ask your local friendly mechanic to run a scan on the car. This will tell you if there are any faults logged into it's own computer, what they are, and what needs to be done. I would advise anyone buying a 2nd hand car ( any make, they are all computerised now, even 10 year old ones ) to have this done before parting with any money….if the seller refuses to allow this... start walking. You have already been given very good advice here on the forum, and this is my tuppence worth...Good Luck with your purchase, and keep us updated with the outcome.

tom_tarbucket

jmreire wrote: »

There is one or two other things you can do to minimise the risk in buying 2nd hand ( or 3rd, 4th etc)
As already pointed out here, sometime the service history ranges from a fully stamped service booklet, to literally nothing. Its nothing new nowadays to find that the old reliable service booklet is non-existent, and this is true for many makes. This is because manufacturers store everything on their own central computers. IE when they connect your car to the computer in the workshop or dealership where it's being serviced, all that data is transferred to the main computer for that make ( Mercedes = Dublin Ireland =Germany) Before the advent of computers, all faults were logged by the main dealers, then transferred to the HQ, and faults processed from there... it was a time consuming process. Now, if your car shows a fault, its flagged immediately, and thereafter, if similar faults are reported from multiple locations, then it's red flagged. The point of this as far as you are concerned is that you can take your car to your local MB dealership, and ask them to give you a print out of it's service history, Even if the car is 10 years old, all work done on that car in a MB dealership will have been logged, especially any warranty or recalls. Presumably, from when it was new, it would have been serviced in an MB workshop for the first few years on any case?
You can also ask your local friendly mechanic to run a scan on the car. This will tell you if there are any faults logged into it's own computer, what they are, and what needs to be done. I would advise anyone buying a 2nd hand car ( any make, they are all computerised now, even 10 year old ones ) to have this done before parting with any money….if the seller refuses to allow this... start walking. You have already been given very good advice here on the forum, and this is my tuppence worth...Good Luck with your purchase, and keep us updated with the outcome.

Thanks.

Do you know of any way to check the health of a timing chain or sprockets ?

jmreire

tom_tarbucket wrote: »

Thanks.

Do you know of any way to check the health of a timing chain or sprockets ?

Yes they can be checked while still in place, but needs to be done by either a MB dealership, or by an experienced MB independent mechanic. As far as I know, the timing cover has to be removed, and they measure the slackness of the chain. Alternatively, when they wear, at some point, they will start to make a noise. While a timing chain in any car snaps it is trouble ( big trouble, in most cases) the MB's are not in the same league as say the BMW N47 engines in terms of overall %, but they need to be checked regularly. I have seen some of these older Mercs ( 300 D's especially) doing in excess or 8-900'000 Miles, but the one you are interested in, should be good for high mileage too, if serviced regularly

Lekrub

tom_tarbucket wrote: »

In regard to the timing chain issue that these cars suffer:

If I was to bring a car to a mechanic,could he tell me by putting it up on a ramp if the timing chain or sprockets need doing?

Yea the rocker cover can be removed and a it can be examined. No way to check 100% but get a good idea. You just need a new gasket(seal) for when it goes back on.

I could of done this for mine but tbh was a bit in denial. Luckily I had no damage when it did go - just needed the job done.

So my chain had been changed - but the sprockets were worn down. Like teeth on bike gears, this caused slippage.

[IMG][/img][URL=https:///][/URL]


Here's a pic from a video I watched on it...
[IMG][/img][URL=https:///][/URL] image upload

I still plan on going for the car you are getting when I switch next. So am following this thread.

Any car can have issues. At least with the w204 for the most part, this is the only known serious issue. Mechanical problems are way better than electrical problems

jmreire

Lekrub wrote: »

Yea the rocker cover can be removed and a it can be examined. No way to check 100% but get a good idea. You just need a new gasket(seal) for when it goes back on.

I could of done this for mine but tbh was a bit in denial. Luckily I had no damage when it did go - just needed the job done.

So my chain had been changed - but the sprockets were worn down. Like teeth on bike gears, this caused slippage.

[IMG][/img][URL=https:///][/URL]


Here's a pic from a video I watched on it...
[IMG][/img][URL=https:///][/URL] image upload

I still plan on going for the car you are getting when I switch next. So am following this thread.

Any car can have issues. At least with the w204 this for the most part this, is the only known issue. Mechanical problems are way better than electrical problems

Lek, in the 1st pic, is this your car? That chain and gears look pretty bad. If so, were you lucky that no serious damage was done? What kind of mileage was on it at this time? And I would say that it was very noisy too.